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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. I not only avoid it, I refuse to buy anything that is still sealed or the contents not pictured. As someone who intends on building every vintage kit that I buy, I want to know "exactly" what's in the box. Fun story Bill! Steve
  2. Something like that Dan, only easier! It was a simple operation of drilling a small hole in the end of a short length of plastic rod and then drilling a hole in the valve cover large enough to accept that piece of rod and slipping it into the valve cover until the desired portion was exposed on the surface and then gluing it from underneath. After the glue is dry, you can trim any excess rod protruding on the underside of the valve cover and lightly sand the exposed portion on the top to round it down slightly. Steve
  3. That's always a question as well. I've seen kits offered on ebay as sealed kits that were never shrink wrapped from the factory. A dead give away. Prior to shrink wrap, they were sealed with a couple of pieces of tape. I have kits from 1962 that still have the tape, so I'm guessing sometime in the mid-sixties? Steve
  4. Yes, there's always that worry as well. But then again, the likelihood that this kit will ever breath oxygen is slim, so we'll probably never know. Steve
  5. I did something similar by buying a kit that was missing many of the parts but contained the essential body and interior parts to construct a model. The box looked very sparse, missing all of the custom or racing parts, chassis, wheels, tires, glass, etc. But a mint condition body, hood, bumpers, tail lights, and all of the necessary stock interior parts were included. The only part that I had to find was a stock grille, which I picked up a month or 2 later. The rest of the parts are irrelevant as the chassis, engine, glass, wheels etc, can all be found using other kits as donors. I bought it some time ago, so I don't remember what I paid for it, but I'm certain that it couldn't have been much over $100.00. Quite a contrast from $1,175.00! Steve
  6. I will guarantee that this model will never be built. There are builders among us, and collectors. The prices will often reflect who's buying. Collectors are looking for mint sealed kits that look pretty sitting on a shelf. There is no way this kit will ever be opened at this price. The value will never be anywhere close to that to a builder, and if opened, the value would plummet for a collector. This guy better hope that his 3 year old grandson never gets a hold of it and decides to see what's in the box! Steve
  7. There is no possible argument to that statement!! I defy anyone to try! They're almost to the point of being unbelievable! Steve
  8. One good tip is to use flat enamel paint and then once dry, you rub over the surface with your finger tips. The oil from your fingers will give the surface a sheen on the high points and leave the flat finish in the crevices. This technique works well for other items as well, like vinyl tops or even chassis if you are going for a slightly weathered look. Steve
  9. Now I see them! Interesting color combo. reminiscent of the classic "Coral" and "Rose Quartz" combo. Steve
  10. Make that 5! Are you listening Revell or Moebius? Steve
  11. We seem to have lost a few pictures at the end John. I'm not seeing the "now it's in paint" pictures. At least not on my end. Steve
  12. Everyone who has contributed to this thread has voiced his opinion. Opinions are what a forum is based on. Yours is no more valid or less valid than anybody else's, just like mine, and I don't claim to be an expert on anything. I just don't get all bunged up when opinions don't match mine. I just offer my argument and you can take it or leave it. I value everyone's opinions Bruce, including yours. I just don't feel the need to denigrate people who's opinions differ from mine by calling them "self appointed experts" and acting as if I am somehow an innocent bystander. It's becoming obvious now that this discussion is starting to become personal, and while I love a spirited discussion, I don't want to get involved in the nastiness. I'm certain that if you go back through this thread you will find that while I do have a strong opinion, every post I have submitted was courteous and respectful. I never once told anybody that they were "wrong", or insinuated that they were a "self appointed expert" or "grumpy old men". So I will leave it to you guys. You were right, and I was wrong. Later. Steve
  13. A quick mock up and "pinning" of the intake parts, and then a quick dip stick was fabricated. Steve
  14. If you look back through the thread you can see that there were several attempts to get the wheels just right. They were actually built using 3 different sets of wheels as donors. The spoke section came from the AMT 1962 Chevy Belair kit. The outer rim was part of the racing wheels from a '67 Ford Galaxie kit. The center caps were shaved from a set of wheels from a '68 Mustang kit. Valve stems were made from plastic rod and tires were donated by Bruce Coy, (Belugawrx) Steve
  15. Jees!!! I'm not a hot rod fan in the first place, but that one completely kills it for me! Looks like the builder took one too many tabs of acid before he started! Steve
  16. More tiny engine parts. Alternator bracket. Carburetor linkage pivot. Fuel line splitter. Steve
  17. That's the point we have been trying to make. I wouldn't worry so much guys. Paul has been doing it "his way" for a long time, and to this point, he's been doing just fine. And he will continue to, with or without you. Steve
  18. Especially with engine colors. Close enough is close enough! Steve
  19. Is the cane detail molded into the plastic? I assume not if everyone is talking decals. Steve
  20. Started scratching up a few details for the engine. First I wasn't enamored with the molded in oil filler cap on the valve cover, so I removed it and whipped one up quick, as well as adding the O-ring on the other valve cover for the vacuum line. Then I cranked out a pair of fuel filters. Steve
  21. Oops!!! I'll correct that! Thanks Keith! Steve
  22. Thanks Kurt! Hawley is in west central Minnesota about 22 miles straight east of Fargo North Dakota on highway 10. Basically half way between Fargo/Moorhead and Detroit Lakes. Just a quiet little town of a little over 2.000 people. Steve
  23. Of course. That way there is no need to produce caps in dozens of different colors. Testors has also done this for decades. Steve
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