StevenGuthmiller

Supply and demand folks. Not everything is Walmart. Steve

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate it! Isn't that always the case? I look back on every build that I do, including this one, and wish that I would have done a better job on certain aspects. Steve

Honestly, I'm with you! I've always thought the '65 Dodges a little "stodgy" and I really don't like the grille. Looks kind of cool from the back end though. The tail lights are a little reminiscent of the first generation Charger. Steve

Trim as close as possible. Depending on the thickness of your paint, the edges of the foil can show through if it is trimmed too wide. Steve

Thanks Peter! The wheel covers were actually a joy to detail! The engraving on them was superb!! Steve

The color on this build is a correct color for 1967 called "Lime Gold". As you can see from this chip chart, Lime Gold was offered as a spring color for the Maverick in 1969, but it doesn't appear to have been available on the rest of the Fords in 1970, although "Medium Lime" appears to be very close. By the way, I have to laugh at some of the names that they used for the colors in 1970. Much like Mopar at the time, but I don't believe that I have ever heard most of these. As far as interior color, I used a custom mix of gold acrylic with a tiny bit of green added to try to replicate "Light Ivy Gold" on the interior color chip sheet. The dash and accents were shot from an old dark green Duplicolor rattle can which resembles "Dark Ivy Gold" or "Medium Green" on the sheet. Steve

Alclad II carries a "pale gold" and a "copper" paint. I don't know how close to a chrome like finish you could achieve with them, but it might be as close as you will get without actual plating. Steve

Here's another one that I had never gotten some outdoor pics of until today. I built this one quite a while ago. This will make a nice companion to my current '65 Fury project when it's finished. Steve

That doesn't look terrible, but it's not quite what I remember. Steve

Hi guys! It happened to be a beautiful day in the neighborhood and I realized that I still needed to get a few photos of a couple of builds in natural light. This is of course my latest '67 Ford Galaxie R-Code build that I posted some time back. They always seem to look a little better in the sun shine! Thanks guys! Steve

If an endeavor is not worth spending a few dollars on to do it right, then you're obviously not that interested in it. I build possibly 3 to 4 models per year on average. One sheet of foil will do that number of builds. If I can''t scrounge up 8 bucks for a sheet of BMF in a years time, ...........well, I'll just go race my motor cycle! Steve

Or you could save yourself a boat load of time and effort in this circumstance and use the entire interior from the Trumpeter '60 Bonneville kit! Seriously, I think in this circumstance, I would widen the rear seat by adding to the ends. I don't believe that it would require enough added material to make it look odd. Splitting the seat down the center and adding material there would require a bit more thought. You have the speaker grille to deal with in that case. Steve

Yeah, it's a little sad to see how many "likes" and positive comments this got! It's good to see that there are so many people interested in modeling, but quite disheartening to see that a rookie like this is trying to teach them something. It's a little like taking cooking lessons from Chef Boyardee!! Steve

As already stated, a large majority of annual kits from 1958 all the way through the 60s produced only one convertible style interior for both hard tops and convertibles. There were a few exceptions when either the real car or model was not available as a convertible, or in later years when someone finally discovered that they could produce a top boot with the wells attached that could be slipped over the rear seat. As also stated, it can be fixed, but there is generally a lot more work involved than just removing the top well itself if you want it to be some where near correct. Not only should the top well be removed, but by doing so, you are now leaving a hole in the door panel that not only needs to be filled, but the rear panel upholstery pattern needs to be carried on to the rear seat back. Many times rear arm rests should be changed as well. And then there is the obvious question about widening the rear seat. On a recent project I tackled this process to the best of my ability by removing the wells from a Johan 1965 Plymouth Fury, completely reworking the door panels, arm rests and rear seat. I was lucky enough to get away without widening the seat due to the configuration of the '65 Plymouth rear passenger area. I merely added "bolsters" on either side. Yes, a project like this is quite time consuming, but very rewarding, and it was actually quite fun! Steve Before After

It's relatively simple to widen the track on these old models. A short length of plastic tubing glued to the wheel back or the suspension will do the trick. I recently had to do this on my '65 Fury. Steve

That's my only criticism. Simplicity is worth a lot to me. Time wasted sitting in front of the computer trying to figure out how to order a singular item on a confusing website is time I could have been spending at the bench. Steve

Unfortunately, it's not limited to just Facebook. I have run across individuals on the boards who have issues with a particular operations in building and cry for help. Upon offering them help, they disregard your advice and think that they have had the answer all along. Then why did you ask for help? A little off topic I know, but this is the sort of thing that really burns my backside! Steve

I have to congratulate someone who can wire a V-8 engine with this size wire! It takes a talented individual to be able to stuff 8 wires of that size into a 1/25th scale distributor!!! Seriously, the wire he used is too large to be used even for heater hose! Steve

These are photos taken from our vacation this past week. While in Washington, seafood was in order. In Burllington Washington we ate at a little bar called the "Train Wreck Bar & Grille". I had some fabulous fried oysters and the wife had crab cakes. The next night we went to a little port town near Burllington called Anacortes. The restaurant was called the "Rockfish Grille". There I had a bowl of very fresh steamer clams and mussels steamed in garlic and white wine. Delicious!! Steve

You're probably right Steve, but with the green tinted glass, the band always looked a little more on the green side to me. I prefer the tint band to be a bit more subtle. Steve

Already did. I ordered on ebay. Steve

Yeah, once it gets to a certain point it's easier just to start over. Me being a taper, I probably would have taken the "cheap" route if possible. That would entail stripping the wall paper and everything else as far down as possible and then skim coating the walls. That's plenty of work as well, but it saves on some of the mess and a lot of disposal, as well as the cost of new sheet rock throughout. Steve

I understand that Joe. The price is to be expected for an item to be shipped from half way around the globe. I'll get over the price quickly if they work as advertised. Steve

The first one that Joe posted a link to. "Hobby Search". Way too cluttered and complicated looking for my taste. I don't have any knowledge as to whether it's a reputable operation or not, I just don't want to try to navigate the site. The ebay listing that Joe provided is a much simpler operation. Even though it's a few dollars more expensive, it's worth it to me to not have to wade through all of the jetsam and flotsam of these complicated web sites. Steve

Terrific Joe! That makes it a little easier, all be it a little expensive. Guess I should order soon. Takes 2 to 4 weeks for delivery. Steve