StevenGuthmiller

Those are exactly the types of primers that I use. You could also add the red oxide primer. Just remember Tom, these primers are also formulated for real cars and not for plastic, so they are hotter than hobby primers. This is the technique that I use and it works well for me. I shoot a coat of hobby primer such as Testors or Tamiya for the first coat. Duplicolor primers are quite thin and do not cover all that well, but they level extremely well & create a great barrier. Shooting a coat of Testors first gives me total coverage & a slight barrier to the Duplicolor primer. Then it's just a matter of continuing with coats of the Duplicolor primer, starting with light coats and becoming increasingly heavier with each coat. I use a coat of Testors followed by as many as 4 or 5 more coats of Duplicolor without suffering any detail hide. When it is time for color, the same technique of starting with light coats followed by successively heavier ones will guard against any possible crazing. Once you have a few color coats on, you can go nuts with clear coats if you desire. By the time you get to that point, the plastic is entirely sealed. Steve

Now that's just plain beautiful!! Perfect color combo on an almost non-existent kit! Fantastic job! Steve

If it's not blushing, this would be my guess. You need a highly impenetrable barrier before spraying a hot paint like this. If the primer is too thin, the paint will eat right through it down to the plastic. Also, some hobby primers can be a little troublesome with automotive lacquers. I have had Testors primer problems under hot paints. I use predominantly Duplicolor primer now, and lots of it! Steve

Put together my color combination for the interior today. Still need to finish up a few small things and then I'll be ready to start air brushing. The medium green on the left will be for the lower half of the dash & the steering wheel. Darker green in the middle will be the dash pad and inserts in the seats and door panels. The light "gold green" on the right will be the overall upholstery color on the seats, console & door panels. Steve

It sure makes it a lot easier! But you might be surprised what can be done, even with faint badges and scripts. They don't get a lot more faint than the trunk badge on the AMT '61 Buick annual. Steve

I used a couple of the T-Bird 390s in my '62 Sunliner and '61 Starliner builds. Steve

I did the front quarter badges, the door locks and the trunk and hood scripts with the foil under paint technique. The trunk badge and center of the side trim was done after paint but before clear, just to give me a crisper detail to deal with, with the painting. The rest will be foiled after clear coats. I guess you could say I use a three tiered approach on some projects. Steve

White glue for me as well. Slightly thinned. I believe that you will be happier using embossing powder to replicate automotive carpet as Rich stated. Steve

Today, I cleaned the paint from the scripts, sanded the trim between the top and body and did a little more foiling and detailing. I foiled the trunk badge and the center of the side trim so that I could do a little paint detailing before clear coat. the rest of the side trim will be foiled when the paint work is completely finished. Steve

The "FORD" lettering on the trunk would have the paint color showing through the voids in the letters, as it does. It's a little hard to see with the paint being the color that it is, but it's there. I may try to dab a little bit of darker color into those voids, or possibly just a little more body color to make them a little more pronounced. Steve

Just a couple of shots of what you can do with a little foil and paint with badges & scripts. I used a little black lacquer primer & some Duplicolor paint sprayed into a cup and brushed on. You can clean up the edges with lacquer thinner & a tooth pick just like you would with the "foil under paint" technique. Using lacquer for these details ensures no issues when I shoot Duplicolor clear lacquer over the top of them. Steve

I hear this argument a lot in defense of "resto-mods". It kind of takes the nostalgia out of driving an old car in my opinion. Give me something to tool around in on a Saturday night that drives and handles like the antique that it is. Otherwise, a new Mustang or Challenger would do just as well. By the way, can anybody tell me why half of the custom and resto-modded cars you see these days all have the same butt ugly shade of tan leather for the interior? I really never understood that one with all of the extremely cool and interesting interiors that the old cars had. It seems to me that it would be much more fun being behind the wheel of this, Than this. Yeah, I know. I get the whole comfort thing. But I would rather ride in style than in comfort for the short period of time that a guy would spend in a car like this. Steve

These types of cars have pretty much ceased to be unique at this point, haven't they? Every show I've ever attended whether it's a 1:1 show, or model show, has dozens of them. I have no interest in either one. If I were given one, I would sell it and buy a real car! Steve

Nothing better than free tools! Steve

Absolutely gorgeous! I have a bit of a soft spot for this GP body style owning a '69 myself. Bought it fresh out of high school & I still have it today. I had a good friend in high school that had a triple white '71. That's a lot of white! Steve

Sweet! I have one of these in about the same condition that yours was in originally. Someday! Steve

Color is on! Looks a little bright in the fluorescent light in the first 2 photos. A little more subdued in the last pic. I will remove the masking on the roof tonight after the paint dries a bit, and clean the scripts. Then it should be ready for a little more foil and detailing before clear coats. Steve

Sand off all of the mold lines and shoot the pipes and mufflers with varying shades of Alclad paints. Steve

New Years Eve consisted of nothing more than king crab and snow crab legs. Today was a late lunch/early dinner of a bacon cheeseburger at Texas Roadhouse. Steve

There's one!!! Steve

Easier than you may think. The foil is applied to the script before the final color coat and then the paint is cleaned from it later. Steve

Bare Metal Foil is my primary tool for the vast majority of my chrome needs. On occasion, I will use a little bit of Molotow chrome for limited applications. But with the right techniques, you can use BMF for nearly everything, including knock out scripts & emblems. Steve

Thanks guys! Hopefully the stable will be a little larger next year at this time. Steve

Nice stuff Emmanuel! I can always count on seeing something interesting to me when you post. Steve

I use Duplicolor nearly anytime that I will be using a basic solid color, like white, red, black, etc. For metallic colors, I usually shy away from Duplicolor paints mainly because the metallic particles are out of scale. That and the fact that I can get correct colors of MCW paints that are not available in Duplicolor. There is nothing I hate more than having to pick a color based on what's available in a can. MCW carries hundreds of factory correct colors and will custom mixed those that they do not. That being said, there is nothing wrong with Duplicolor paints. I use some of their colors as well as primers & clear coat. These models were all shot with Duplicolor paint straight from the can. Steve