StevenGuthmiller

Terrific work Paul! This is one of those kits that I've had at least one example of laying around since I started building models! I still have not built one! I'm not sure why.. It is a great looking car. Steve

What kit is the glass from? Finding a replacement might be your easiest avenue. Looks like possibly a tri-five Chevy? Might be worth just asking if anybody has a replacement. Steve

Yes, it can. This is the same kit that I had as a kid. I don't believe that I ever finished it but I was in the process of building it stock at the time. Couldn't tell you whatever happened to it. Steve

Looks familiar Al. I'm watching. Steve

I trim the foil as close to the script, letter or emblem as possible. The reasoning behind this is that if you leave too much foil around or between the letters it can sometimes be seen after finishing. Steve

Personally, I prefer to apply it to the paint, usually just prior to the final coat or 2 of color. I figure, the less paint to clean off of the scripts, the better. Steve

Nice Bill. This and the Johan Javelin kit are still in my "back of my mind" want list. I had them both years ago & I think it would be fun to build them again. Steve

You can paint the black area with acrylic craft paint. Any mistakes ca be removed with a little water or some light scraping with a tooth pick. Steve

If by chance you have problems Doug, I would not object to you sending the '64 Cutlass to me! Steve

You can use nearly anything for adhesive to glue this stuff down. Some use paint, spray adhesive, white glue......... Personally, I use plain old Elmer's glue, slightly thinned with water. Steve

No earth shattering updates today, but the paint is polished, the foil about half done, and a little test fitting. So far, everything seems to fit together perfectly. Let's hope that trend continues! Steve

WD-40 takes it right off. I highly doubt that it will be an issue with any paints. I know for a fact that it will not harm Testors lacquer. Steve

This works well for all sorts of moldings. Steve

Part of the reason that I put the tape on the outside of the foil is, not only does the tape edge give something for the blade to ride against, but the blue color creates a contrast between the foil, the tape and the blade to make it easier to see what you're doing while you're cutting. Many times the unwanted piece of foil will come off when you pull the tape off anyway, and I usually clean off any foil adhesive residue later with a dab of WD-40 on a Q-tip. Steve

I kind of agree with this. I'm not planning on driving it anywhere or playing with it in the sand box when it's done, so what's the point. Steve

I was just in the process of beginning the foil on my current project and thought that this tip might be helpful to some members. I have heard some people voice their contempt for foiling wheel well moldings, but this technique may help make it a little easier. It helps a lot for me. As a matter of fact, I use it for a large portion of the exterior trim on my builds. First cut a piece of foil large enough to cover the entire wheel opening. Then cut a very thin strip of blue painters tape and lay it along the edge of the trim where you want your cut to be. Let the edge of the tape be your guide for the tip of your knife blade to ride against. I have been using this technique for many years and it always provides consistent results for me. It's simple really, but it's much easier and more accurate than free handing. Steve

I suppose that there are instances where it might work to polish metallic paint, but I'm with you on this one James. It's not really worth messing around with. Just clear coat and be done with it. Steve

It comes in one ounce jars. Enough to do at least one 1/25th scale model. But, if you think that you need more, order 2. It is pre-thinned and ready to use straight from the jar, but it can be thinned with regular lacquer thinner if necessary. use a good automotive primer. It is an automotive lacquer and is a hot paint, no different than Duplicolor. Steve

Sorry Steve. You are correct. My messages were full. I emptied them out, (hope there was nothing there that I needed) so now you can PM me and get me your address. Steve

I think Bill covered it pretty well. I prefer to use one of those after market paint suppliers, namely MCW for the reason that Bill stated. The metallics are much more in scale than most rattle can paints. If you want a match that is as close as possible to the correct color, I would suggest going to the MCW (Model Car World) website and ordering from there. I did check and they do carry correct 1952-1954 "Saddle Brown Metallic". Steve

Well Steve, it's like some kind of divine intervention, but I just happen to have one driver's side 1967 Bonneville tail light! It's funny how things work out sometimes. When I bought my '67 Bonneville builder, it was missing one bucket seat and had a broken passenger side tail light lens. I got in under the wire with Modelhaus and ordered a set of seats and a set of tail lights, so now I have one lonely driver's side tail light lens and a bucket seat left after my build. If you like, you can PM me and we can arrange for the lens to be shipped to you. Never shipped to Canada before, so you'll have to give me the low down. Steve

There were 2 colors similar to this offered on the '69 Cadillac. Not certain which one this is, but there was "Wisteria" and "Chateau Mauve Firemist". There's a mouth full! My guess is the latter. Steve

Thanks Paul. That is a giant compliment coming from the master! Steve

If it wasn't for the fact that it's so nicely done Paul, I would call it heresy to cut up a rare model like this. But being as it started as a promo, I'll give it a pass. Nice work man! Steve

I just use Elmer's white glue. I thin it down slightly with water to make it easier to brush on. The embossing powder that I have been using came in a set of 16 metallic colors. As a general rule, I can find a color to use straight from that set without painting it. If not, embossing powders can be mixed to a degree. This one required a mixture of blue and green to get the shade that I was looking for. I paint the surface to be covered with a color relatively close to the color of powder I will be using. Then brush on the glue and sprinkle on the powder.........done! Steve