StevenGuthmiller

The old "foil under paint" technique. It's a pretty common trick. My method is to foil the script & other small chrome parts, such as the door locks, prior to the last color coat & then clean the paint off of the script after the last coat with a little thinner & a tooth pick. I then clear coat the entire body. Some guys foil them before any primer or paint goes on, but I have better luck waiting until I'm ready for the last color coat. Steve

Looks WAY better Chris! Steve

The scripts are done as well as trunk badge & door locks, followed by 5 coats of Duplicolor clear. Ready to paint the top & then on to polishing. Steve

The Johan Studebaker is a '62. Steve

Now that's nice! The color is terrific! Steve

If WD-40 didn't do the trick, I find it unlikely that it is tape adhesive. There must be actual damage to the glass. If that is the case, your only option will probably be sanding & polishing. Steve

After seeing your avatar, I would think that you would be particularly fond of this Torino. Steve

Pretty sure that he "specifically" mentioned the spoiler. Steve

Here's just quick example I threw together in a few minutes. I will take a little more time when I'm ready to make one to install on a model. This is what I got using one of the Grandt Line bases, a piece of 22 gauge hypodermic tubing for the lower half, a piece of .015 wire for the upper & a dab of Laser Bond for the tip. I think I'll pretty much stick with this. I may do a little refinement on the base. Steve

Rather than paint, you could try polishing your pins with a fine polishing pad to bring out the shine. The wire that I'm using has a darker "steel" finish as it comes. But with minimum polishing, it shines up to a nearly chrome like finish. If I get the time later on, I'm going to put together a test piece. I'll post some pics of what I come up with. Steve

Possibly. But for the most part, I would assume that the most likely application for clear parts will be small parts like headlight, tail light, parking light lenses, etc. At least that's all that I will need clear parts for. Steve

That's what I use. Should take it right off. Steve

Now we're talking. I say why mess with all of the trials of regular resin when you can zap it with UV light & have the part in hand & ready to use in seconds. Steve

Don't get too used to it. Guaranteed that PB will put the brakes on it very soon. This "fix" will be useful for something like retrieving Harry's pics if done quickly, but you know as well as I that it will not last. Steve

Now I know I won't use it. Way too complicated for me. Steve

Had the exact same issue with Alumilite clear. No matter what I tried, it never cured. I gave up on it & started using Laser Bond glue instead. Steve

Actually, I usually drill out a small "pilot hole" with a drill bit as close to the center of the lens as I can. Then I go to work with a cone shaped reamer bit with a base that is larger than the hole will be. When I get close to the bezel edge I stop & do the same with the back side of the grille if possible. Then I do as much clean out & fine work as necessary with a smaller straight bit of some sort. These are the bits that I usually use. The fine ball shaped bits are for very fine work if needed. I finish up with a round file & sanding sticks. This is the bumper from my '67 Bonneville that I will be using soon, after drilling out & re-plating. Steve

I just carefully ream mine out with a variable speed dremel on a lower speed with various sized reamer bits. Don't have to find the center, I just ream them until I get very close to the bezel lip & then finish with a round file. Steve

Not sure that I agree Dennis. That's a pretty nice looking '59. Steve

A combination of black & white. Steve

It's kind of funny, but not only didn't the Sunliner or the Starliner kits have parking lights, but the Starliner had the Sunliner script on the front fender. Good looking Ford Dennis! Steve

Very sharp! Steve

If you're thinking of drilling them out, you can use plastic tubing & sheet finished with Molotow pen for the tubs & you can cast your own lenses with mold putty & Laser Bond glue. It sounds pretty involved, but it's not once you get a system down. Steve

I'm glad I found a good one! Just a few minor repairs on mine. Steve

Nice John! I found a nice one of these a few months ago. Funny how everyone that I've seen has the points broken off of the "arrow" emblems on the hood. I'd like to find a new set along with some stock hub caps. Steve