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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. StevenGuthmiller
    Boy, you must have done some diggin' to find this one! 2009! She is a beauty though! Steve
  2. StevenGuthmiller
    That's why I like your style Bill! The rarer mint kits that I have waiting right now are a '65 Plymouth Fury, '66 Plymouth Fury convertible, '67 Plymouth Fury, '67 Ford Galaxie, '66 Pontiac Bonneville, '62 Pontiac Bonneville, '67 Chrysler 300 & a '60 Chrysler Imperial, as well as few less rare Johan "USA Oldies" kits. All of them will be built. Steve
  3. StevenGuthmiller
    Thanks guys! Of all of the old annual "tub" type interiors I've done, this was my favorite. Steve
  4. StevenGuthmiller
    Just about any good hobby shop will carry it James. If you're like me & no longer have access to a hobby shop, almost any "on line" hobby shop will have it. I buy most of mine from "modelroundup.com" but there are endless options there. Or, you can always order directly from the source. Do yourself a favor though James. Get the original, or "new improved" foil for chrome. Stay away from the "ultra bright" chrome. Steve http://www.modelroundup.com http://www.bare-metal.com
  5. StevenGuthmiller
    I didn't necessarily suggest "modifying" anything Mark. I'm just curious as to whether or not anyone who has an old MIB kit has actually built it. I bought this '61 Fury kit a few years ago. It was perfect in every way. The only thing I did to it was have the chrome parts re-plated & add a set of after market tires. I didn't even paint it. Just polished out the plastic. Not a muscle car by any stretch, but it was a very rare MIB kit. Steve
  6. StevenGuthmiller
    Instead of just listing them, maybe we should see them. How about it? Anybody have the intestinal fortitude to destroy the future value of one of these "pristine" kits that Ace originally spoke of & build it? I've built one & have a few others in the wings waiting, but none of them would most likely be considered "muscle cars". Steve
  7. StevenGuthmiller
    You could always try masking with BMF. Works great for those curved areas that are too "tight" to mask with tape. Yes, you surely can paint over the white with another color. I painted this '61 Buick interior by starting with white. I then masked off the seat inserts & spray painted the overall turquoise. Then I came back, re-masked the white area, & started to lay down the stripes with strips of tape & progressively darker shades of turquoise. It's all labor intensive, but with patience, it will give you a nice result. By the way, I masked the curved corners of the seat inserts with BMF. Steve
  8. StevenGuthmiller
    The '63 Bonneville isn't particularly hard to find. There is an un-built convertible & several built kits on ebay right now. The '64 Bonny is a little tougher. The '64 Cutlass is a good one for the list for sure! Steve
  9. StevenGuthmiller
    You missed the MPC '68, '69 Dodge Coronets! The '68 especially is a real "wallet buster"! I can think of a bunch of kits from the 60s & 70s that are extremely rare & elusive, but I don't know if I'd consider any of them "muscle cars". Steve
  10. StevenGuthmiller
    Boy, you can say that again! Hasn't been a post since last year with the exception of a couple in the new members section. But, I did book mark the site. Maybe it just needs a few of us to get over there & get things "jump started". Steve
  11. StevenGuthmiller
    Understandable. Things like vent windows can be a real pain to do. I personally hate doing them. Nice thing is, it's never too late. You can always come back & do them later. Although they would be even more difficult to do. But again, very nice work! Steve
  12. StevenGuthmiller
    Yes. As long as your finished build will be cased & not receive a lot of rough handling, a white glue will do the trick. I use Testors "Clear Parts Cement". Basically a quick set white glue. As Paul said, any excess that you would happen to get on the paint will wipe right off without any damage to the paint. Another bonus is that if you do happen to knock off a part at some point, it won't take the paint off with it like can happen with super glues. You just glue it back on. Steve
  13. StevenGuthmiller
    Nothing is impossible. Most of what Modelhaus makes are copies of original kit parts. With a little time & effort, almost any part can be found on ebay. I have bought parts from Modelhaus mostly out of convenience. But for the most part, I would rather have original styrene parts. So I just poke around ebay when I'm in need of something & I can usually find what I need within a few weeks or so. As an example, I just picked up a '63 Bonneville rear bumper a couple of days ago after searching for a couple of weeks. Next I'm looking for a set of stock wheel covers for a '65 Mercury. No luck yet, but I'm very confident that they will show up eventually. Steve
  14. StevenGuthmiller
    Looks nice! The paint is beautiful! But I have to ask, if you're going to foil, why not foil everything that needs it? The foil you did apply looks good. I'm just curious as to why you foiled pieces like the hood trim, but not the rest of the grille surround. Or the drip rails, but not the vent windows. It would be an A-1 build with a little more foil. Steve
  15. StevenGuthmiller
    I have no experience with Tamiya paints or clear coats. I use mostly MCW & Duplicolor paints & Duplicolor "Perfect Match" & "Paint Shop" clears. I do use Testors clears for small jobs but not for bodies any more. Had too many issues with them in the past. But, I custom mix my engine colors & the like, utilizing flat enamels & I shoot Testors clears over those all of the time. Steve
  16. StevenGuthmiller
    I find myself buying fewer & fewer glue bombs & built ups myself as of late. I've found I have a tendency to push those kits that need more work to the back burner & I've become concerned that I will never build them anyway. So I figure if I spend a few extra bucks & get a good un-built kit, it is much more likely I'll build it, so therefore a better value. I have 4 kits at the head of the roster right now, all basically pristine un-built kits, with probably that many more closely following. Some of the built kits that I own have been languishing for several years & I really don't know when I'll get to them. From now on, I'll likely focus on un-built when considering a purchase. Steve
  17. StevenGuthmiller
    You're old? I'm pretty sure the newest model year I have right now is an old Monogram 1971 Plymouth Satellite kit! I'm fairly certain the newest one I've ever owned was an AMT '72 Chevelle. But there is "hope" for me. I've been considering picking up a Johan '73 Cutlass! Steve
  18. StevenGuthmiller
    I think you're probably right Dan. I don't think that Testors lacquers are really lacquers in the true sense. You can spray Testors clear lacquer over almost anything without issue. I've sprayed the clear over enamel & acrylic paints with no damage to the under coats. I've even sprayed Testors clear over bare plastic with no evidence of crazing. You would never get away with that with an automotive lacquer. Steve
  19. StevenGuthmiller
    I already built mine, but it's one that I'd like to re-do....... someday! I doubt that I'll wait that long to use it. Usually a color for particular build just kind of "hits" me out of the blue. Other times it takes me weeks to decide on a color & many times when I spend that much time thinking about it, I wind up not being totally pleased with the choice. funny how things like that work sometimes. I guess the obvious choice would be a '59 Gm car being as it's from that year. The only '59 GM I have yet to build is a '59 Olds..........Hmmmm. Steve
  20. StevenGuthmiller
    I usually don't mess with testing Scott. Most of these colors are ear marked for particular builds & I don't want to waste a drop of paint unless it's going on a body. The "Lime Gold" will be used on a '67 Galaxie, the "Blue Charcoal" on a '66 Bonneville & the "Aztec Copper" on a '63 Fury. Believe it or not, the '56 Corvette color was the same code as 1963 Plymouth "Coppertone". Most of the blues & turquoises are just generic colors that I have yet to decide what I will use them on. I'll have to find a use for the "Crown Sapphire" soon. It's a beautiful color! Steve
  21. StevenGuthmiller
    I've tried it both ways & found that it works best to foil after the paint is completely done & polished. Although, as Snake said, if you use wax, I would save that for after the foil just for adhesion purposes. Clear coating over the foil will actually "dull" the affect of the foil. The clear will not adhere well to the foil anyway, so if you polish your bodies afterwards, you may find clear coat flaking off of the foil causing an uneven look. Steve
  22. StevenGuthmiller
    A fresh batch of paint from MCW! There's a new addition to their product that's kind of nice. Each jar now includes a mixing ball! I really hated having to open them up & stir them to get all of the solids off of the bottom! They also included a note informing me that they now carry a line of military colors as well. Not my bag, but it may interest the military & dio guys. Colors are, left to right: 1956 Corvette "Aztec Copper" 1967 Plymouth "Mauve" 1966 Pontiac "Blue Charcoal" 1958 Chevrolet "Silver Blue" 1958 Chevrolet "Fathom Blue" 1958 Chevrolet "Aegean Turquoise" 1959 Chevrolet "Crown Sapphire" 1964 Chevrolet "Meadow Green" 1967 Ford "Lime Gold" Where do I start? Steve
  23. StevenGuthmiller
    If he's going to repair them before selling, I would greatly prefer seeing the bare body work. Nix the primer. I've seen this guys auctions & considered them, but quickly bailed after a little thought. I just assumed that there was possibly an ulterior motive if he didn't want you to see the plastic. Steve
  24. StevenGuthmiller
    I'd be a little leary about buying a kit that has had body work already done on it, & then had that work covered up with primer. You never know what will be underneath. Steve
  25. StevenGuthmiller
    I'm an "old Mopar guy" too Gene. These old unusual kits sure make me smile working on them. I think my next one might be a '65 Plymouth Fury hard top. Either that or a '63 Fury or '62 Dart. Steve
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