StevenGuthmiller

In all honesty, I think the Cougar might be possible, but with the ‘69 already available, I have my doubts. Personally, I wouldn’t hold my breath for the other 2 either. My opinion? I would keep an eye out for these 3 in the not too distant future. Just a guess. Steve

And the chains worked worse than expected. ? Steve

I think you might be too late already. From what I’m seeing, the color coats have already been affected. Steve

Of course, today’s cars are safer for the occupants, but they’re also constructed of tin foil and plastic. The car in the photo could be easily repaired. A modern car would be loaded directly onto another truck to be hauled to the bone yard. Steve

You’d be lucky if it wasn’t bent in half. ? Steve

Funny part is, try that with a modern car and see what you’d have left. you’d be hauling it to the junk yard. ? Steve

I hate that “I build for fun” nonsense as well. As if those of us who dedicate ourselves to more time and effort can’t possibly be enjoying ourselves. ? I’ve been building “for myself” my whole life, but I will reveal that the first time that I attended a model show was a true epiphany for me. Seeing the unbelievable models on display was an absolute inspiration! I saw things there that I had never seen before, or had even thought possible in 1/25th scale. I could have either returned and decided to remain stagnant in my modeling approach, or I could do what I did, and strive to reach the highest level that was possible for me. Funny thing is, I enjoy this hobby SO much more now than I ever did back when I was just slapping them together in a few days and using the “I build for fun” excuse. Steve

Well, I KNOW that I’d never use it in place of clear lacquer. The only reason that I had ever considered buying any was possibly for glass, but the last thing that I need is more stuff that I’ll never use cluttering up my shop. ? Steve

The real issue is not that the nozzles can’t be cleaned, it’s just the fact that you shouldn’t have to soak your spray nozzles every time you use the stuff. I bought a few cans of Rustoleum a few years ago, hoping that they would be a good choice for spraying chassis parts, etc. Problem was that the nozzles plugged up on every can after the first use, a couple of them during the first use! I can honestly say that from my brief experience with Rustoleum spray paints that there is no worse paint delivery system on the market! At least not that I’ve seen. Steve

That’s all fine, and you can have my share. I’ll stick with real paint. ? Steve

Thanks guys! Here is a text book example of the reason that I like to post detailed WIPs of my projects. It was brought to my attention by a couple of gentlemen in the Facebook modeling groups that the '64/'65 GM A-Body convertibles did in fact NOT have snaps to secure the top boot. Not being aware of that fact, I began to install snaps, but was alerted to this mistake by these individuals. It might not be important to some, but I do strive to be as accurate as possible, and without the detailed posts, and some folks who were more knowledgeable than I about this particular detail, I would have continued this inaccuracy and at some point, it would have been difficult or impossible to change. So, in conclusion, thank you to the gentleman who alerted me! I'm always open for suggestions to help make my projects the best that I can make them. I've since returned to the shop and have done the boot trim over......correctly this time! Steve

To me, the floor polish thing is another short cut that I don’t trust. There’s every indication that it will probably turn yellow over time. It’s not worth the risk as far as I’m concerned. Steve

Today I began installing the boot trim and adding the boot snaps. Steve

I use a lot of rattle cans as well. I use Duplicolor sandable primers of all colors, Duplicolor primer/sealer, and Duplicolor "Perfect Match" lacquer clear top coat. I use my airbrush for most colors, especially metallic colors, using MCW or Scale Finishes paints for most everything, but I will still use Duplicolor rattle cans for some solid colors. I also use some Testors clear gloss and flat lacquers, mostly for smaller parts, and occasionally some of their lacquer primer. I have also been using some Rustoleum paints for chassis parts, etc, but I buy the stuff in the small cans and thin them for airbrush with lacquer thinner. As far as I'm concerned, Rustoleum is just another enamel paint, and I'll even thin the stuff in the cans a little with mineral spirits for brush painting, but it's very slow drying, and it's my opinion that the Rustoleum spray cans are virtually unusable. Steve

Another issue with Rustoleum that I see frequently, (on the Facebook groups) is clogging nozzles. I've seen this problem first hand. I've also seen people get really excited when they contact Rustoleum to complain about clogged nozzles, and are sent a whole bag of replacements. You would think that this might be another clue that even Rustoleum knows what kind off product they're producing. Steve

And don’t forget the 16 hour, 53 minute and 29 second re-coat window. ? Steve

Best advice that I can give is to not spend to much time hanging around on, or taking much advice from, many of the people in the Facebook modeling groups. They'll be trying to convince you to use latex house paint before you know it! Some of the best modelers in the country, and the world, are members of this group. They are going to do their level best try to give you the absolute best advice possible without all of the background noise from the chimps in the cheap seats. Steve

The stitching was actually molded into the top. Steve

Shelf life concerns are but one of the reasons why I don’t use Molotow. Pens or refill, it’s all the same to me. JMHO. Steve

If it's not a factory color, it could be almost anything. Steve

I've been trying to convince people to use "good" paints for a long time. I don't seem to be gaining a lot of ground. Go on some of the Facebook groups and you'll see these kinds of problems over and over again, and almost always attributable to the same products. The problem is that along with the "smart" guys that will suggest changing the materials that they're using, you'll have almost as many trying to convince them that the paint is not the issue, and that they're getting good results with this cruddy paint. Of those that suggest staying the course, a few seem to be managing to make it work pretty well, but the rest just have apparently low standards and are okay with mediocre paint jobs. I don't know. It's frustrating, but maybe it's just time for me to stay out of it and let people continue to struggle until the light bulb finally illuminates for them. I feel like I'm just wasting my breath. Steve

The gray might work for a very weathered top, but that's not the affect I was going for, and I definitely don't want a gray top on a pale gold car. The finish is actually not a glossy paint. It's nothing more than Duplicolor black primer, but it does have a little shine to it. That said, I feel like it should have a bit of a shine to it, but in the end, I could always hit it with a little dullcote for a dead flat finish. Steve

My first ever "homemade" convertible up-top. (actually, modified from a hard top) I'm very happy with it!! The top used before modification. Steve

Thanks everyone! I believe the "homemade" rag top is finished for all intents and purposes. I will add the little chrome caps at the ends of the rear top bow at some point, and possibly a little paint detailing if required, but other than that..... I did add a little texture. Do you think it's too much? I can always smooth it out a little with another heavier coat or two of black. I'm pretty happy with it. I feel that it certainly looks better than the Polar Lights '64 GTO top. The "before" photo. Steve

Just Duplicolor “Perfect Match”universal black from a rattle can. Steve