StevenGuthmiller

I've come to the conclusion that the cracking problem that I've had with the Testors paint is due to a slower cure time. I would usually use about 3 coats spaced about 24 hours apart & everything seemed fine for up to 3 to 4 weeks. Many times the cracking would not begin for many weeks after polishing. I gave up using the stuff after several seemingly great paint jobs went south after the model was already finished, or nearly so. Steve

Duplicolor dries very fast when compared to something like Testors. I started polishing my current project the day after the final clear coat. probably a little soon, but it worked fine. Steve

I've never tried Tamiya clear, but I've had quite a bit of experience with Testors. I always thought it was pretty nice stuff except for the fact that it sprays on a bit too heavy from the can for my taste. then, out of the blue, I began having problems with cracking of the clear coats. I'm still not 100% sure of the reason for the cracking, but regardless, it became enough of a problem that I gave up using it on my bodies in favor of Duplicolor. I've had no issues since. Steve

Thanks guys! Got one side pretty much foiled last night, but no photos. I'm laying on a hotel bed in St. Louis right now. Those trim pieces on the Starliner top are a real bear to foil! I'm beginning to re-think the wheels as well. I only have one set of slots &I don't like the looks of them. I'm thinking of going with Cragar SS wheels instead. Steve

Just a couple more minor progress pics. Engine parts are all painted & ready for detailing & assembly. I'm using the engine from the AMT '62 T-Bird. The body is polished & ready for a light cleaning & then foil. Leaving on vacation tomorrow, so this will be the last update for a while. Hopefully, when I get back, things will start moving along at a little better clip. Steve

Thanks Tommy. I'm not sure if the Purple Power vs. Super Clean is really your problem. From what I understand, The two are pretty much the same thing. Although, I cant verify that. I've never used Purple Power. It could just be the particular paint used on those kits. Occasionally, you'll run into something painted with some odd ball paint that just doesn't seem to respond to any stripper, but I guess anything is worth trying. I agree, nothing brings a sigh of relief like checking back on a body in the tub of purple stuff & seeing the paint melting away! Steve

I've sprayed Testors clear over almost everything at some point with virtually no bad affects. It's pretty much my "go to" clear when I just need a quick shot of shine. I don't use it on bodies anymore for previously stated reasons. Steve

Thanks Mike. I don't use a lot of decals anyway, mostly just small under hood stuff & the like. But I can see what you're saying. I pretty much use the same technique when applying lacquer color coats to guard against crazing & ghost lines. Steve

I think a lot depends on what type of paint was used. The old model paints used on most of the old annuals is no match for the Super Clean, whether a solid or a metallic. My experience with most of the old annuals that I have stripped is they come out squeaky clean within a couple of hours. Some paints can be more stubborn & some can be literally unaffected. The biggest problem I have had are flat paints, especially flat black. Luckily, most of the built ups that I have purchased have been painted with light coats of enamel with no primer. This '67 Bonneville was painted with metallic gold & came clean in a very short period of time. Maybe 4 hours. The '61 Ford was a little more stubborn. The metallic green took a couple of days to dissolve. The '59 Pontiac's solid green almost began to melt away before my eyes! within an hour it was as squeaky clean as new! Steve

I would definitely not use Duplicolor over decals. So, if TS-13 is as hot as Duplicolor, I would avoid them both over decals. Testors lacquer clears are very mild & will probably be your best bet. I've shot Testors clear over sheets of homemade decals to prevent smearing with no ill affect. Steve

It does take a while to strip lacquer paint with Super Clean. It doesn't actually affect the lacquer at all. It dissolves the primer, & then the lacquer comes off in sheets. What type of primer was used probably will have a lot more bearing on how well the Purple Power works than the paint itself. Scratching the paint in a few areas may help the Purple Power get under the paint & help speed things up a bit. Steve

I use "Polished Aluminum" Alclad for that sort of thing now. Works great! When I built this '57, I just foiled the whole thing & then brush painted the insert with Testors Dullcoat. Easy way to do it, & I think it looks fine. Steve

Just remember Gene, Duplicolor clear is an automotive lacquer & is a hot paint. It's not compatible with some paints. Steve

I've always had very good luck with Super Clean. I've never had any issues with the undercoat not coming off with it. Usually a soak overnight will take care of it. I've soaked chrome parts from old kits for less than 2 hours & had them come out bright shiny white. Steve

They made a million of 'em. Steve

I think your best bet for the interior parts, as well as everything else for that matter, will be the AMT '70 Dodge Super Bee kit. I'm seeing very little difference between the '68 & '69 Coronet dash boards, though the steering wheels are different, & the dashboard in my original '69 Coronet kit & the '70 Super Bee kit are identical. Steve This is the '68. And the '69.

You can still do pretty well if your vigilant. I found this '61 New Yorker on ebay for about $70.00. Still not cheap, but when you consider the cost of a new kit at around $30.00........ Steve

MPC did both the '68 & '69 Coronet R/T annuals. They will set you back a little change if you can find a good one. Steve

I'll be using the original '69 Coronet interior tub for mine. I'm just swapping out chassis & engine. Steve

Subject matter & rarity. Some of the old Johan annuals are very rare & desirable. the mid to late 60s Plymouth Furys for example are very hard to come by, in any condition, as well as some of the Chrysler 300s. Detail wise, they're pretty much on par with every other manufacturer from their era. The Plymouth & Chrysler kits I mentioned have very nice bodies & fairly well done interiors. The engines aren't too bad & the chassis are just a one piece affair. As I said, pretty much on par with all of the kits from the period. Johan did do some very nicely detailed kits. The '63 Turbine car comes to mind. If you don't want to open them, send them my way. I'll gladly build them, despite any "disappointment"! Steve

I'll eventually be using the AMT '70 Coronet parts for my '69 Coronet. Same parts as the '68 Roadrunner. Steve

I've used both & really can't see any difference. Be vigilant with curing & re-coat times! I stopped using them both when I started having real issues with cracking. Steve

Just a little list of issues with my non-Honda vehicles over the years. All started at less than 35,000 miles on brand new vehicles except the Buick which I bought used. 1987 Buick Century; Bought it with 70,000 miles on it, lasted me about 10,000 before I found water in the oil.....Goodbye. 2000 Mercury Moutaineer Monterey; Aside from from the Firestone tire recall, at about 8,000 miles the main computer had to be replaced. When I found it was leaking oil all over my garage floor @ 30,000 miles......Goodbye. 2003 Dodge Ram pickup; I really liked this truck! It had gobs of power with the Hemi, & with 4 wheel drive, it would go through anything. But it also began rusting in the first year, & with the price of fuel rising so much at the time, plus the fact that the power steering pump was shot & the front wheel bearings were going.....Goodbye I've had several Mazda pickups over the years & always seemed to have much better luck with the non-Ford ones. The '87 extended cab was one of the best vehicles I ever owned! Other than that, probably more than a dozen Hondas, all of which have rarely seen a shop. Steve

That's got to be the first time I've ever heard anybody complain about reliability with the Japanese cars. I've owned Buicks, Dodges, Mercurys, Mazdas & Hondas over the past 25 years. The only ones I've had zero trouble with are the Hondas. My daughter drives a 2006 Honda CRV with nearly 300,000 miles on it. It still drives & handles like a new car. I drive less than 5 year old Chevy Uplanders & full sized Chevy vans @ work. The Uplanders are massive pieces of garbage. No offense to any Chevy owners out there, just calling it how I see it. I've gotten to the point where, in my family, we buy nothing but Hondas. Collectively, we own 4 Hondas & an Acura & I won't go back. I have a real distaste for fixing cars. Steve

I did a little research a while back & came across a website with a ton of info on the early 300s. I found that in 1956 there were a few 300s done in custom colors for a few "discerning" customers. including a couple of 2-tones. Unfortunately, I don't remember the site, but it did give me the green light to go ahead & do it in a different color when the day comes to build one. Steve