StevenGuthmiller

Testors lacquers are very mild. They act like a lacquer in the way they cure, but you can shoot them over almost anything. Steve

I wouldn't mess with it personally. You'd have to be getting up under there with a dental mirror to ever see it when it's finished. Steve

Thanks guys! I just have a few details to finish up & then final assembly. Tonight I need to finish one of my absolutely least favorite jobs, painting the white letters on the tires. I just hate it!! I'm guessing some one probably has a simple technique for doing this, but being as I do so few of them, it's just acrylic flat white & a steady hand for me. Steve

Just a few more pics showing where I am on this project. I replaced the stock tail light bezels with the custom pieces from the '61 Galaxie kit. I think they look much better than the stock ones. I also added scratch made back up lights. I'll definitely be hollowing out the headlight buckets & adding clear lenses more often. It does make a big difference! The wheels are courtesy of my friend & savior gtx6970! He came through for me when I was in need of a nice set of aluminum slots! The last pic just shows the status of the engine & chassis @ the moment. I should have no problem finishing this build by the weekend. Steve

Now it's on the upper right corner, right under the "search" box. It's now called "New Content". Once you click on it you'll see a box on the left headed by "Content Type", "Filters" & "Time Period". You'll have to set those filters as you want them. I had to set them after the update & now it works exactly as it did when it was called "My Content" in the old format. Hope that's what you were looking for. Steve

Bought one on friday on Ebay,should be here in a week or so,my first Moebius actually. Do i dare ask what you had to pay for it? It was $25:50 on Ebay. Notices the prices vary a lot. Fresh from the mail box! Steve Bought one on friday on Ebay,should be here in a week or so,my first Moebius actually. Do i dare ask what you had to pay for it? It was $25:50 on Ebay. Notices the prices vary a lot. Paid $29.00. But that was including shipping. Steve

Fresh from the mail box! Steve

That's good Gregg! At least we know it's coming Steve

Hi Rick. Always good to see another Minnesotan on the forum! Steve

Wow! I didn't expect this one quite so soon! Nice job Joel! That should get your juices flowing for the next project. Steve

I can assure you, most of my paint jobs right "out of the shop" look little if any better than the worst of yours. The trick is all in the color-sanding and polishing, whether of the colored paint or the clearcoat. Well, that and pre-primer preparation of the body itself. As they say in rock n roll: "We'll fix it in the mix." Same here. I guess there are "pros" on the forum who can muster perfect paint jobs every time with no polishing, but I'm not one of them. I just strive to do as little of it as possible, because I absolutely hate polishing!! I don't mind polishing, but BMF was going to be the death-of-the-hobby for me... I took days and days to get up the desire to BMF an entire model... even broke up the session into smaller sub-sessions, but no matter, I still hated it. And I hated it even more when I started having trouble with it sticking! BTW, I do consider you to be one of those "pros on the forum", for whatever reason including ones you hate, you sure turn out some drop-dead gorgeous finished pieces!!! I don't mind foiling, but it can become tedious. I usually split it up over several sessions, especially if your subject is particularly "heavy" in trim. It's one of those things that I've spent a large portion of my modeling career trying to perfect because I believe it to be very important to produce a nice finished product. Along with paint, I feel they're the most important parts to a build. All of the engine & chassis detailing in the world will not hide grainy paint or a wrinkly foil job. Steve

Those curved pieces are a little more tricky than just stretching. You have to stretch it & then form it over a mold while it's still warm enough to take the shape. It's really not difficult, you just have to work quickly, & practice. It's not a big deal to throw away mistakes. It's just sprue. Take your time & practice a little Cato. You'll get the hang of it. Steve

I can assure you, most of my paint jobs right "out of the shop" look little if any better than the worst of yours. The trick is all in the color-sanding and polishing, whether of the colored paint or the clearcoat. Well, that and pre-primer preparation of the body itself. As they say in rock n roll: "We'll fix it in the mix." Same here. I guess there are "pros" on the forum who can muster perfect paint jobs every time with no polishing, but I'm not one of them. I just strive to do as little of it as possible, because I absolutely hate polishing!! Steve

The biggest for me, is the never ending wheel of death I get when I try to post from PB, using URL. Other than that, I'm cool with the site. Ditto! I've had to resort to the "copy & Paste" method. I guess it works okay, but it would be really nice to be able to post photos as we used to. Steve

I use stretched sprue for a million different things. It's very easy. Don't over think it. I've found that some times we tend to over think simple things making them more difficult. As long as the sprue is styrene, it should make no difference where it came from. It really need not be styrene either. you can stretch almost anything, although they may act a little differently. Just hold your sprue over a flame, ( I just use a Bic lighter) rotating it a little to heat it all around until the piece begins to sag on the end you're not holding. Then just grab both ends & slowly stretch. If you stretch it quickly while it's still the hottest, it will be longer & thinner, if you stretch very slowly, stopping occasionally to let it cool a bit you'll get shorter thicker pieces. You should be able to get pretty much any thickness you want with a little patience. Make sure you keep it stretched to the size you want until the plastic cools, ( 20 seconds or so) & you'll have a nice straight piece. I make everything from carb linkage to antennas with stretched sprue. I even use stretched clear sprue for some items. I've used it to make early 60s Mopar & Pontiac transparent steering wheels & recently used it to make backup lights for my '61 Ford build. Steve

Why not just buy a can of Testors metallic clear & decant that? Or you can always buy some clear pearl from some where like MCW. Steve

Yes sir! I remember that photo. As I said when you first posted this build, that's not my friend, but the car is an almost exact replica. The more I look at that photo, the more I wonder if it could have been the family that previously owned the car before my friend bought it. It would be interesting to find more info on the photo. Steve

I like the white. I agree that they've been done too often in black. Steve

Nice James! I'm a little surprised at how quick this one came together! Great job! Steve

Cool Ray! I may have mentioned it to you before, but I had a good friend in high school who had this car in the same color! Only difference was a black & white interior. He had it for about a week & then he got drunk & took out several rows of corn with it & bent the frame. That was that! Steve

Nice Lee! I sure wish AMT would have been able to repop the '67 or '68 Galaxie rather than the '69. Both were much better looking than the '69 IMO. Steve

I've used all 3 as well. While I no longer use any of them on my bodies due to problems I've had, as far as I can tell, there's little difference between the old "Gloss Coat" & the "Ultra Gloss Clear". The "Wet Look" seems to give a little better finish, but also seems to spray on a little heavier. I use any & all of them for smaller jobs like interior parts & engines. Steve

What snake meant by "tube glue" is the old fashioned "plastic cement" used by every modeler years ago. It worked by actually melting the plastic together. Not sure how many of us still use it. Probably not many. I'm with Dale. I don't go any where near the glass or a painted body with super type glues anymore. Too much potential for disaster. I use hobby glues designed for clear parts for glass & small parts to be glued to the body like mirrors, door handles, antennas, etc. Steve

Just thought I'd give the "copy & paste" method a try being as it seems to be one of our only options going forward. Guess it works fine but it sure would be nice if we could get back to the old method at some point. good luck Gregg We really are a "pain in the neck", aren't we? Steve

Almost as ugly as this......Almost! Steve I'm digging that one, just needs that door handle shaved to clean it up some. I'd "dig" it too! If it was mine, I'd be looking for a place to bury it! Steve