Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

StevenGuthmiller

Members
  • Posts

    14,962
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. Awesome! At his age, my builds still looked like dog doo, if you catch my drift! I'd say it looks as if he's definitely got the knack for it! Nice work!! Steve
  2. I think you can spray Testors clear lacquer over most anything. I've sprayed it over enamel, acrylic & yes decals. I've never had an issue with it, but I don't use a lot of decals, so further opinions may be warranted. Steve
  3. & so satisfying to see the progress after it's finished ! That's all it takes Harry. A few tools & a little patience. Those screwed up foil jobs are attributable to one thing & one thing only.....impatience! Nothing makes a build come alive like a nice foil job in my opinion. Steve
  4. Looks Great! As I expected! Steve
  5. Threw some color on this build over the past couple of days. The colors are not an exact replica of original colors, but are close enough for me. Original colors are "Arctic White" & "Turquoise". The colors I used were Duplicolor GM "Dover White" & MCW 1969 GM "Azure Turquoise". I really like the combo. Tomorrow I should get started on clear coats. Steve
  6. Looks like something you would see for sale on ebay built back in '64. Only much nicer! Nice work! Steve
  7. Time for you to start building more Mopars Tulio. You're quite good at it! Nice work! Steve
  8. Yes, I'm sure it is Snake. I've had this happen with most every build I've painted with Duplicolor. It's never been a major problem. Steve
  9. Sounds like as good an explanation as any bill. As you say, I don't worry about it. It's not really a problem in the long run. It was just interesting to me that that perfect circle of clear, un-fogged paint appears on the roof, & I had to question why. I guess it's one of those things that I'll never have a satisfactory answer for, but it really seemed to me that humidity would have little to do with it. I highly doubt that the area backed by the spray can was some how lower in humidity than the rest of the body. Luckily, I only use non-metallic colors out of a spray can on occasion, like white, black & red, so this issue only arises on those occasions. Just seems like an interesting dilemma that I thought others may have experienced. I'm still open to that elusive definitive answer guys. Let me have it! Steve
  10. That's the problem Art. The situation does not improve even in the dead of winter. My basement is mostly finished, & for that matter, is only a "half" basement. (Only about 4 feet underground) I do realize that the humidity may be higher in the basement, but in the winter time, the air is so dry here that I get a shock every time I touch a light switch, even in my basement. Yet the fogging persists. As I said, it's not really a problem, I am just wondering why any part of the body that is "backed" by something does not fog. I only have fogging issues with Duplicolor rattle cans, & only colors for that matter. The clear does not fog. I also never have this problem with airbrushing lacquers. Steve
  11. I have a question for all of you chemical engineers out there. I know that there have been many topics & discussions regarding automotive spray lacquers & the affects of humidity on the paint, but I've noticed an unusual phenomena with many of my paint jobs that I've used Duplicolor rattle cans on that makes me wonder about the "humidity" argument. First of all, I'm painting in my basement where it is air conditioned to a cool & comfortable 74 degrees. I almost always have "fogging" in the paint when I use the Dupliclor paint whether it's spring, summer, winter or fall & it's not a big deal as It's never a problem after clear coats & polishing, but I've noticed a peculiarity that has me scratching my head a little. I sometimes mount my bodies on an old paint can for spraying paint & I've noticed no fogging in any areas where the back side of the plastic has anything mounted to it. The roof of my '61 Buick has a perfect round area in the center of the roof that is un-fogged where the can is taped to the underside. Even the sides of the body where the can is situated are not fogged where the can is close, but not touching. The remainder of the body is fogged. Maybe something to do with the temperature of the can, you might ask? Possibly. But that would not explain the same phenomena on the hood. The hood was mounted for painting on a tooth pick with a piece of tape at the top & the same thing is evident in the center of the hood where the piece of tape is attached to the backside. I would think there would be little temperature difference between the plastic & a tooth pick & small piece of masking tape. What's the answer? I'm wondering if a guy could eliminate the fogging issue by masking off the backside of the body before painting. Hmmm. Steve
  12. Doesn't take much fuel to run the quarter mile. Probably would be a close race with my Starliner anyway. But I think my '62 390 tri-carb could probably take ya. Steve
  13. Looks Great! Now you're about ready to do a little cruisin'! Steve
  14. For most cars it was just common sense. If the car was blue, you're options were probably blue, black, & some combination of black & white. One of your best options may be to just do a photo search of 1977 Pacers. That's how I usually start my research on a build. Just go to you're Yahoo or Google start page & type "1977 AMC Pacer pictures" in your search box. You may be surprised what you'll be able to find. Here's an example of what I found after about 1 minute searching this way. This is from '75, but you get the idea. Steve
  15. Looking good! You do realize of course, that it won't "go" without a rear axle. Steve
  16. I've had that problem in the past myself, which is why I started using acrylics many moons ago. Steve
  17. I use mostly flat enamel paints & mix my own colors to match or contrast the exterior. Many times I'll use the same paint on the dash, steering wheel & occasionally the tops of the doors that I used on the body. A trick that I like to use to replicated the metallic vinyl on cars from the late 50s & 60s is to shoot a mist coat of pearl acrylic craft paint over the interior after the colors are on. This not only gives you a slight metallic finish, it also gives you a bit of that vinyl "sheen". Steve
  18. I've seen this one many times Tulio, & it never gets old. They don't get a whole lot better! Steve
  19. Thanks Tulio! But as I said, I'm no photographer, as evidenced by the lilac bush in the background. Steve
  20. I'm not seeing much wrong with it myself Tony. looks very nice to me! Sometimes we tend to dwell on the problems we had with a particular build. Come back & look at it again in a week & you may find it's not as bad as you originally thought. Nice job! Steve
  21. Good old cheapo Ceramcoat acrylic craft paint is what I've used for years, & when I say years, I mean I've had the same bottle of paint for probably than 10 years. It'll probably last me another 10. Just use it the same as a lot of the other guys on this thread. Basically, slap it on & scrape it off the top with a tooth pick. I use the same stuff for all of my panel lines & cowl vents. By the way Mike, There is no "correct" way to do virtually anything when it comes to modeling. Use whatever works for you. Steve
  22. Thank you guys! For the time being, it's become one of my favorites on my shelf. Now I just have to get some more cases to keep it dust free. Steve
  23. Sharp John! Very nicely done! Steve
  24. Thanks Tony! My favorite too! Steve
  25. My favorite build is usually my last one.....until the next one is finished. I won't kid myself. I'm no photographer. But, if I had to pick one of my favorites, it would probably be my '60 Dodge Dart. Steve
×
×
  • Create New...