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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller
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Just saying ', most guys plan on painting their kits, & we all know that the molded in color kits offer a whole new set of problems when painting. Steve
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Spectacular paint job Jim!! Steve
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Nice score! But I do have to say, you may be the first person I've ever heard say you were "lucky" for getting the molded in color kits. Most of us hate them! Steve
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1966 olds master cylinder question
StevenGuthmiller replied to greymack's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Not sure what came with what package for the 442, but back in those days you could order any options you wanted on a car. I once owned a '58 Cadillac that came with standard power seats, "Autotronic Eye" & "Wonder Bar" radio, but a heater was an option. Steve -
Painting ... Yeah Painting
StevenGuthmiller replied to Hollywood's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Basically for me it comes down to what kind of paint I'm using. Flat enamels have a lot of the same characteristics as primers so I see no need to prime prior to using them. Paints like Testors Metalizer have never given me any issues without primer either, so I usually pass with them as well. Unlike Tim, I've never had good luck with painting bodies without primer, but then again I've used automotive type lacquers for the past decade & with them, primer is a must. On occasion, I've even used primer as a color coat & then just clear coated over it. Steve -
Painting ... Yeah Painting
StevenGuthmiller replied to Hollywood's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I prime most things, but not all. Small parts that I plan to paint flat colors like batteries, I don't bother with. Paints like Testors flat black enamel cover well with one coat so I don't find a need to prime before I use them. Steve -
I don't worry too much about that stuff either Peter. Maybe the owner had to replace his Mopar battery. Although, I do try to keep things as accurate as possible, I don't obsess. Maybe use one of the aftermarket batteries like an Interstate or a Diehard. They're all represented on the mini sheet. I'm planning on some more custom decals from Tommy in the near future, that Mopar battery would be a good one to add. Steve
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First Build - Painting Advice
StevenGuthmiller replied to vroomvroom's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The only thing you have to remember guys, is Tamiya paint is not readily available for a lot of us. I don't use it, but if I did, I'd only be able to get it by ordering on line. That needs to be taken into consideration as well. Steve -
First Build - Painting Advice
StevenGuthmiller replied to vroomvroom's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
For black you can use almost any type of paint with good results. Even good oldTestors gloss black enamel will give you a nice finish. As long as you don't mind waiting for a couple of months for it to cure. I use almost exclusively automotive lacquers just because they dry terrifically fast and they don't cover up any detail. Just a spray can of Duplicolor black & some clear will do nicely for you. Just don't forget to prime, prime, prime! Automotive lacquers are hard on styrene so you need a good barrier between paint & plastic. Steve -
Thanks Tommy! Uh, nope......still planet Earth! Steve
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I also have 3/4 of a set of Modelhaus stock '58 wheel covers. Some where along the line, I lost one years ago & had to order a new set. I believe the Modelhaus pieces are replicas of the promo wheels. I'm not in the position to download any pics right now, but if you go back & look @ the pics in the "what did you get today" thread of my '58, those are the Modelhaus ones. The scripts are a challenge but can be done with the foil under paint technique as long as you're not using too many heavy coats of paint. Steve
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Favorite #11-style blade
StevenGuthmiller replied to Don Sikora II's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I change blades so often that I really don't care what brand they are. Usually Excel or X-acto are what I come home with. I use a brand new blade every time I start foiling a build. That one will usually hold up for any hacking that I need to do up until the next foil job. I never sharpen blades, they're one of the few things left in this hobby that are still pretty inexpensive. Steve -
No Richard, I use one of those little pointed Tamiya Q-tip type swabs. I dip it in a little thinner & then sponge off the excess on a cotton cloth so the Q-tip is just lightly damp. Then just lightly rub off the paint with the tip. Carefully of course! Another problem I had with putting the foil under the primer was exposing a thin line of primer around the script. Not a problem if you're using white primer & white paint, but it can become quite noticeable if you use say, a light gray primer under dark blue! Steve
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Beautiful Niko!! I like the open wheel look. Funny, but I was never really a great fan of that, but have grown to like it, especially with the wide whites! Nice work! Steve
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Thank you Yuri! Coming from you, that's huge! Steve
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Richard, just remember to be very careful sanding for those scripts. I've tried several different ways of doing this "foil under paint" technique. Putting the foil on under the primer was the least successful for me. It takes a lot of grinding to get through several coats of primer paint and clear coat, & with the foil being as thin as it is, it's very easy to go through the foil right back down to the plastic. I've had the best luck putting on the foil right before the last color coat. Cut it as close to the script as possible & then shoot your last coat of color. After the paint is dry enough to handle, I carefully take the paint off of the script with thinner, or I guess you could just as easily polish it off with a polishing pad. Then I put my clear coats over the top. Just a suggestion born from my experience with it. Good luck with the '59! Always been one of my favorite Buicks! Steve
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I just used the "foil under paint" technique Bill. Not an easy task with this one. The script is so small & faint, it's tough! Steve
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Thanks you so much guys! Steve
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Nice score Bill! I picked mine up at a little roadside antique shop for $8.50 maybe 25 years ago. Builds into a fairly respectable model. Steve
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Well, if I had to ask, that means you did a great job of it! Steve
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Paint. Automotive or modeling?
StevenGuthmiller replied to Jonj238's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Same applies with MCW paints. They will craze the plastic as well. Always use plenty of good primer when using automotive paints. Steve -
Very cool MIke! I love seeing these "old dogs" all prettied up! Did you foil under the paint for the scripts, or did you foil or paint them afterwards? Either way you did a great job on them! Nice job under the hood too! steve
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Go Ron! This is one I'm interested in. I would like to find a kit of this sometime in the future. Seen a few on ebay, but they're pretty rare, & spendy! steve
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I was not only irked, but extremely surprised when I opened my gas bill & found that they "thought" I owed them $497.00 for the month of December! I thought not!! Seems our meter reader mis-read our meter! Steve