StevenGuthmiller

Here's a few shots of the 413 engine featuring decals from Tommy Logan, aka. "Roadhawg". Steve

It's your call Pat. I usually use the "paint over foil" method myself. But being as you have the PE letters & you're using them on the rear, I would keep things uniform & use them for all of the scripts. For the front. I would take measurements of the existing letters & right them down, or do some sort of template, then sand off the existing letters before painting. Steve

With a name like "Johan", you & I will get along just fine! Welcome! Steve

Metalizer Aluminum spray works perfectly for things like that. Just spray it on & rub it out a little. You'll love it. I don't seal it afterwards though. The sealer seems to "kill" the metal affect. Steve

I've done a limited amount of PE but here's one I did recently. I just measured the the width & height, divided in half for both, & then started with my center letter in the center of the tire cover & then divided by 3 on either side & marked with a pencil for the rest. I didn't bother polishing. They looked good to me. Steve

Well, I'm getting pretty close to finishing this project. The interior is done, & the engine will follow closely. After that, just odds & ends & miscellaneous details. Hoping to finish up sometime this week. If not it'll be a couple of weeks. Leaving on vacation Saturday! WOO-HOO!! Steve

Sorry about the interior pics Rob. If I knew how to delete them from this thread I would. I don't want to interfere with your build. No need to thank me for using the engine. I just figured, if it has one, why not use it. Even if it's not detailed up. You may be surprised. You may decide the work you did on the engine was your favorite part of the build. It's happened to me. Steve

That's just plain nice Ron! Great work! Steve

The engine looks great Rob! I would never guess that you had not done this before. Terrific job! Don't put that body too close to the stove! Steve

Thank you Dan! Steve

Thank you Tim! I'm sorry to say that I've never been an avid model magazine reader & even if I was, I usually have a hard time remembering what I had for breakfast! But I thank you for your kind comments. I was never a big fan of the styling of the '63-'64 Chryslers.......until I started this build! during the month or so that it took me to finish this kit, I really gained an appreciation for this car. As a matter of fact, as I've said before, this was the most fun I've had on a project in a long time! The unusual body style along with a nice interior & a unique engine configuration really made it a blast! I really love these old Mopars! They're just so different from the usual ho-hum stuff offered today! Steve

The kits were made of styrene so they didn't warp any more than any other styrene kit. I've built a lot of them in the past couple of years, & warpage has never been an issue unless the kit was packed badly of course. The '59 Olds is a kit, not a promo, so there is no warpage. It's not molded in yellow, the lighting was not real good where I took the picture, & these old unpainted kits take on a very yellow or cream colored tint over the years. Here's a '61 Plymouth that was molded in yellow It's a kit also, & was in such nice shape, I didn't even paint it. Just polished it out. Steve

Thanks guys!! I really appreciate all of the positive feedback! Steve

That's the main reason I usually stay away from promos. Plus the fact that I have little experience with the funky plastic they were made from. Steve

I've soaked styrene parts for over a month in Super Clean with absolutely no issues. The only problem with brake fluid is disposal when you're done with it. I've never had much luck with it anyway. Steve

There were also "gold line" tires. Steve

I agree Tom. That's why I was talking about the "mint condition" ones. A busted up promo is destined for the trash bin anyway, so why not restore them. Steve

Sorry Tommy, I have yet to use them, but I'm very sure you'd have to cut around each decal. No different than if you made them yourself. Steve

I've used just the heat & dent method before & it works fine for small dents. If you dent it quickly after heating using something with a bit of a sharp edge to give a crease, it looks fine. When you start trying to do major crash damage, (ie. wrinkled up front fenders) with heat, then it just looks like melted plastic. This is a '55 Chevy truck that I never finished. Just a dent in the door & another at the corner of the grille. I should probably finish this someday. Steve

I agree Scott. Promos were made, more or less, to be a collectible. But, as you'll see on ebay, a mint condition rare promo might cost you upwards of $300.00. Not really a prime candidate for a re-build anyway. Steve

It is a nice one Jim. But I'm a builder, not a collector. I don't buy them to save them as is. I've gotten my hands on several mint condition, in the box kits over the past few years, & as blasphemous as it may be to kit collectors, I built them. After all, that's what they're for. Steve

Thanks guys! Mark I love the mid 60s 300s as well. I had a red '67 hardtop in high school. Personally, I've always thought the '66 was the sexiest looking 300 they ever produced! I'd probably get a lot of blow back on that opinion, but it is my opinion. I have one of those in my stash coming up also.

That is beautiful in black! But, the '59 Olds had such a unique two-tone treatment, I'd really like to do something along those lines. How about "Russet" & "Ebony Black"? Steve

How about slowly heating it from the inside. Steve

Got these in the mail today from our very own Tommy Logan (Roadhawg) & www.speedwaydecals.com. All you factory stock builders out there looking for stock under hood decals, look no further. This is your ticket! The package on the right were a few that Tommy made up custom for me. Sounds like some interesting stuff coming down the pipe too! Steve