StevenGuthmiller

That makes sense. I've found, at least with automotive lacquer, that the super clean has little to no affect on the paint itself. It dissolves the primer & the paint comes off in sheets. So breaking the surface would help get the ball rolling I would think. Steve

Ah!! I thought I was the only one who used WD40 for that purpose! I mentioned that in a different thread some time back & got flack for it because it will cause paint adhesion problems if you get it on a surface yet to be painted. I just squirt a little in a jar & keep it around for this purpose. A little bit on a Q-tip will take that residue right off. Just don't plan on painting over it & don't go spraying it around your shop like room deodorizer. Steve

Which type are you using Allen? the "Ultra Bright" stuff is really hard to work with IMO. I use mainly the original stuff, now called "New Improved". I cannot think of a time when I've ever had adhesion problems. as a matter of fact, I have more problems getting it back off if I have to remove a piece. Steve

Absolutely nothing about it intimidates me! As a matter of fact, it's become one of my favorite processes in building. I guess I've gained enough experience with it over the years that it's just become routine. In my opinion nothing "transforms" the look of the model more than a good BMF job. I will admit, it can be tedious & time consuming, but the transformation from before to after is amazing to me. I would rather not build than be without it! Steve

Thanks Richard. Can't quite put my finger on it, but it seems there's a hint of purple or something in there that makes it unique. Steve

Sharp! How can you not like pink on a car from the 50s. Steve

Very cool George! Always liked the sedan deliveries. Steve

Looking forward to your projects George! I'm a huge "annual" lover myself. Welcome! Steve

I'm sure that's very true. I'm guessing a lot of kids in the 60s just used whatever paint was handy. Not always hobby paint. I have yet to have an old ebay acquisition with flat black painted parts com clean, either with Super Clean or Easy Off. Don't know how brake fluid would work on it, I avoid it like the plague! Steve

Thanks guys. Tonight I cleaned up the ragged paint edges on the side trim from the masking tape & before I can move on to clear coats I need to mask & paint the panel in between the side spears black in preparation for shooting it with Alclad "Pale Gold". I picked up a quart of Duplicolor "Paint Shop" clear gloss & I'm kind of itching to give it a try. I think I might play it safe & use Duplicolor clear out of a rattle can for the first few coats & then I'll give it a good sanding & polishing before a final coat of the "Paint Shop" clear. I'm hoping it will cut down on final polishing time. We'll see. I'm still kind of in limbo as far as finding a perfect clear coat. Hoping this will be the ticket. The bonus is, a quart should last me a long time! Steve

I'm just the opposite Bill. I usually shoot for hardtops. Especially on these late 50s kits. I figure the interior detailing was so horrendous, the less they're seen the better! Plus Many of the roof lines from the period were just so darn gorgeous! I've been "binging" for the past three years myself. Just picked up another builtup today. A 1967 Pontiac Bonneville hardtop. Scratch another one off of the list. Steve

I know I've had trouble depending on what paint was used. It will barely touch flat black & I've had issues with a few other paints as well. The bane of my existence is looking at an old builtup on ebay that I'm interested in & trying to somehow "glean" what type of paint was used. Nothing worse than spending a wad on a kit that you can't get the paint stripped on! Steve

Could very well be Jim. But I still think the likelihood of ever seeing most of those you mentioned again is very minimal. If they haven't been re-issued since 1965/66..... Well, let's just say I wouldn't hold my breath. Steve

I wouldn't doubt seeing a '58 Bonneville sometime in the future. It seems to be an exceedingly popular car. I'll guarantee you it won't be a "re-issue" of the old AMT kit, but an all new tool. Might be 20 years from now, but who knows. Steve

I've finally eliminated any distractions I had with this build & have moved on with it. Now that I have some paint on it, I'm beginning to get excited about it again. I'm really liking this color combo! The correct '58 Ford color combo would have been "Silvertone Blue" & "Colonial White". In the interest of saving some money on ordering more paint, I decided to use what I had & go with a '58 Caddy color called "Argyle Blue" & I'm really glad I did! I love this shade! The bottom color is Duplicolor "Arctic White" & was shot from a can. Got the scripts all cleaned off so now it's ready for clear coats. I'm hoping that February being a short month, a nice curbside build is in order for keeping up with my "one build a month" goal. Steve

Do you suppose someone nixed that idea for fear of the kiddies bringing home a half naked girlie with their Chevy? I'll bet "mom" would have been clogging up the phone lines @ Lindberg. Steve

One trick I tried out recently for those gold scripts was, after you get the paint cleaned off of the foil, is to carefully color them over with a gold Sharpie. Just make sure that if you do it to wait until the very end of the build. Clear coating over the top of Sharpie will bleed like crazy! I did it on a '60 Chrysler New Yorker & it worked great! It will rub off with too much handling, so I did it right at the end. Steve

A lot of these old molds probably no longer exist. My understanding is that with these annual's molds were many times destroyed or altered to produce new molds for the next year. Case in point would be the Johan 1960 Plymouth as an example. Originally, the '60 Fury was produced, but then later the molds were altered to make the '60 Plymouth wagon. Hence, no more '60 Plymouth Fury. My guess would be that we'll probably never see a new one either. Steve

Bill, did you wind up doing anything with the scripts before painting? Seems to me this kit would be pretty hard to foil or paint after paint & clear. Scripts are very faint. Steve

This interior is a real "toughy" Bill! But with a little love it will look as good as can be expected. I'm working on the old AMT '58 Ford right now. The interior is no better on that one. '58 was a bad year for AMT & interior tubs. Steve

I've used mine over & over again for the past year. Still works fine even though it's dirty as hell! Most likely it's the paint. some paints it has little affect on. Others may take a couple of weeks to really clean it off. And yet others will dissolve in a matter of minutes. Steve

Mobius alone will be bombarding us with new kits in the next few months! I believe the '71 Ford truck should be out very soon, as well as the '54 Hudson. The way I understand it, the '61 Pontiac, & '65 Belvedere are supposed to be very close also. Followed not too far behind by the '65 Comet. Kind of makes you wonder what's coming from them next year, & how I'm going to afford them all! Steve

I did one of these '58s a couple of years ago. You'll be really sick of foiling by the time you're done! Steve

It's pretty hard to quarrel with that color combo! I've never been a huge fan of black, but the black & red combo is one of those classic 2-tones that will always look great on almost any car, whether it's from 1955 or 2015. Looking nice Bill! Steve

I agree. I try to be a little more enthusiastic about commenting than just a "wow" or the like, unless time is an issue or something. But I usually try to say what it is I like about a build. I also try not to be too shy about offering a criticism or two if something catches my eye. I'm sure that probably irritates some, but just as some really great things will pop out on a build for a first impression, unfortunately, sometimes a negative one may jump out at you too. Although, being nasty is not helpful either. Steve