StevenGuthmiller

I would wait at least a couple of days, preferably a week before re-applying lacquer clear coat. I've had some issues very recently with cracking clear coats, at least with the Testors "Wet Look Clear". I used to wait only 24 hours, but with the problems I've had lately, I figure it's better to wait. Steve

Very nice job Cliff!! I agree with almost everything you said! The only thing I will disagree with is using Lacquer over enamel. Under most circumstances, that is correct. But Testors Lacquer clear coats are very mild & will not harm enamels. I use them over all sorts of paints. But, as you said, I personally wouldn't use enamels for bodies anyway. I used to years ago, but I got tired of putting them back in the box for 3 months before they would cure well enough for polishing etc. And absolutely, avoid clear enamel! It's amazing how yellow it turns over time. A white body would turn urine yellow within weeks!! Steve

That brings to mind a 1:1 '58 Cadillac I used to own. Power seats & windows, automatic dimmer, & a "wonder bar" radio were standard equipment. A heater was a additional cost option! Steve

Just finished Another one to add to the list! Steve

Thanks Gabriel, but I can't even get Plastikote primer around here, I'm sure your suggestion is non-existent in my area. I don't mind ordering paint online as I use a lot of airbrush ready paints & I can order a dozen jars at a time. But I use primer in a rattle can & I refuse to order it online. I just use way too much of it. I'd be ordering primer constantly. So I want to stick with something I can pick up locally if at all possible. Thanks for the suggestion though! Steve

Well, it's finally finished! After being shelved for several weeks due to unforeseen paint issues, the problems have been satisfactorily resolved, & here it is. Not my best effort or favorite subject for that matter, but a must have for the collection. Painted in correct "Geranium" & "Colonial White", & embellished with a few detail parts such as a scratch built antenna & interior mirror. Otherwise, box stock except for a set of AMT parts pack Firestone tires. About froze my "man parts" off taking the photos. I believe it was a high of 6 degrees here today!! I'm just glad to have this one in the "rear view mirror"!! Steve

Pics coming very soon in "Under Glass"! Right after I thaw out!! Steve

Looks to me like the likely cause was the final coat of clear going on before the previous one was completely cured. I just let it set for a few weeks until the cracking seemed to cease & then re-polished. Took care of the majority of the problem but I think I'm staying away from Testors "Wet Look Clear" for a while. This issue raised it's ugly head on 2 builds since I started using it. Never seemed to have the problem with the other Testors clear. Steve

Well, this one's been a real pain, but I think I have the paint issue taken care of for the most part. Not one of my best works but it's good enough for the girls I go with! Should be putting on the finishing touches today, so with any luck, it'll be in the history books & "Under Glass" later tonight. The sun is shining in Minnesota today, so if I finish in time, I may even get some outside photos! Steve

It was kind of cool at the beginning of the movie seeing that long row of beige Plymouths coming down the line with one red one sticking out like a sore thumb while "Bad to the Bone" played. Gave you that feeling that this one was "special" and something bad was about to happen of course! The movie was pretty "cheesy" & poorly acted, (Arnie's best friend was a lump!) but for a car guy, especially one who loves Mopars, it was great!! Steve

If I get these 6 finished I'll be happy! 1964 Chrysler 300 hardtop ( Royal Ruby Metallic) 1958 Ford Fairlane 500 convertible ( Silvertone Blue & Colonial White) 1959 Pontiac Bonneville hardtop ( not sure of the color yet, leaning towards Cameo Ivory & Canyon Copper) 1965 Chrysler 300 hardtop ( Royal Turquoise) 1962 Chrysler 300 hardtop ( Luminous Green) 1961 Ford Starliner ( will be a very mild custom painted a color not available on the '61 Ford, Gunmetal Gray) With any luck, I may add or substitute any of these; 1966 Chrysler 300 hardtop (Spanish Red) 1965 Dodge Monaco hardtop (Saddle Bronze) actually a '66 color 1967 Plymouth Fury hardtop (Turbine Bronze) 1960 Lincoln Continental ( color TBD) 1959 Lincoln Continental (color TBD) 1959 Oldsmobile 98 4 door hardtop ( color TBD) Steve

That's ok Tulio. Red isn't accurate for a Fury in '58 either. Only available in "Buckskin Beige". Looking great so far!! Steve

Thanks James!!

I use the sandable primers. Gray & red are ok, white is terrible for coverage, but pretty nice otherwise. Wish I could still find the yellow stuff! I loved that!! Steve

Good to know Cato. Thanks!

How well does the Tamiya white cover the Duplicolor gray? Steve

No problem Jonathan. I did ask how hot the primer was in my original post. Steve

That I understand Jonathan, But the paint I'm putting over it is very hot, So my question is, how much Tamiya primer do I need to prevent that? Steve

That's why I used the Testors gray primer. It covers very well in one coat & gives you a good surface So you can see where you need more body work. But then you need something to cover the Testors primer because it doesn't work well with autmotive lacquer paints. Duplicolor gray covers fine, but it's very dark gray, so if you need a lighter base you're SOL because the Duplicolor white primer doesn't cover. It's kind of a vicious cycle. Steve

Thanks guys! Like I said, My biggest fear is that I'll craze the plastic on one of these vintage kits! What I usually do is spray a couple of coats of a similar Duplicolor paint to the MCW Lacquer I'm using as a finish color. That way I save on my "good" paint & I can save what's left for another build. Any way, the Duplicolor paint is very "hot" & I was mainly wondering if a couple of coats of Tamiya primer is enough to shield against that. I know for instance, that Testors is not a good primer for Duplicolor & was wondering if the Tamiya primer was that same sort of "hobby" primer. I usually shoot a coat of Testors gray, followed by a coat of Testors white & then 3 or 4 coats of Duplicolor white, so I really have a good base for my lacquer. But I've had issues with the Testors primer & I'd really like to be able to cut down on primer coats. So far I'm feeling relatively safe, but More input is always good. Steve

I've checked literally every auto parts store in my area For Plasticoat primer to no avail. I would like to give it a try. I like Duplicolor primer except for one aspect. It doesn't cover worth a spit!! Especially the white! I use Squadron Green putty & have sprayed more than 5 coats of Duplicolor white, & can still see the putty through the primer! painting over a body molded in color is an exercise in futility! I resorted a long time ago to spraying a coat of Testors gray over the body after prep, followed by at least one coat of Testors white primer if I need a lighter base, & then several coats of Duplicolor white to give a nice smooth finish. I don't really like the Testors primers that much, (too thick & don't dry as smooth as Duplicolor, plus it doesn't give you nearly as good of a barrier when you're painting with automotive lacquers) but it does cover! I'm getting ready to try Tamiya primer now for the first time, but at $13.00 a pop, I'm not sure how much of that I'll use. Steve

I realize this topic has probably been beaten like a dead horse but I just returned from my local Hobby Lobby with 2 cans of Tamiya primer. One regular gray & one fine white. I know a lot of you swear by the stuff, so I'm just looking for any tips on what I should do with the stuff. My first inclination would be to use it sparingly!! At $13.00 a can, I don't think I'll be slinging it everywhere! I'll be using it under automotive lacquers so I guess my main questions would be; How well does it cover & how many coats would I need to ensure no issues with plastic "craze"? How hot is it? Will it craze the plastic itself like Duplicolor primer will if sprayed too heavy? Just the first questions that come to mind. Any other useful input would be appreciated. I'll be using this for the first time on a couple of pretty rare vintage kits, so as you might expect, I'm a little paranoid about switching primer in mid stream. Steve

I've gone from commenting to no longer giving a rats behind! See ya! Steve

The only real reason to keep the shrink wrap on a kit is if you're planning on selling it & you want the added value of the "original wrap" thing. If you're not going to sell it, I would definitely un-wrap it to save the box if nothing else. If you were planning on selling it, you're at that point where you're going to have an issue with condition any way & you've already lost that extra value. Personally I wouldn't buy it without seeing the contents for fear of damage to the kit itself. Steve

Dude! You're gonna have a heart attack or something!! Very nice job but you're going to have to quit the hobby in a couple of years! You'll have built "EVERYTHING"!! Steve