StevenGuthmiller

Thanks Carl! Steve

A nice red shop rag will take care of that. Nice work! Steve

I finished up the painting on the interior of the '65 Chrysler tonight. I was initially going to go with a monochromatic theme on this interior & do it all turquoise to match the body. But I just couldn't do it. Too much turquoise! I decided to go with a turquoise & parchment combo instead to add a little contrast. I know most of these '65 300s had interiors in basically one color, but I did find a few examples on line that were 2-tone. So, a little patience & a lot of masking tape later this is what I have. As usual, I sprayed a light pearl coat over the top of the upholstery to give it that wonderful 60s metallic vinyl look. Now, a little foil, some detailing and a bit of embossing powder for the carpets, & I'll be able to move on to other components of the build. Steve

Or runs, or sags, or covering of body details, etc. etc. Steve

Thank you James! I appreciate it! Steve

My guess would be yes! Steve

Oh.... You were one of those kids huh? Well, this wasn't one of your old kits then, it was in pretty nice shape. I made the connie kit for it though. Mostly to cover up the horrendous sink marks in the trunk lid. by the time I had them repaired, the "Roadmaster" script on the trunk lid was not able to be restored. So I decided an "after market" continental kit was in order. Steve

Thanks Danno! I love that old Buick too. That's why it's the first photo! I picked it up on ebay as a restorable built up. Wish I would have taken a few before pics. Steve

Looks like you're all ready for one Bill! Let's go!! Steve

I will say, I'm not much of a custom guy, but the '53 Ford is, in my opinion, a great canvas for customizing. If I ever decide to start building customs, the '53 will be my first victim! Steve

Very nice David! Classic color combo. Man, I haven't built one of those in decades! Still my all time favorite Vette!! Steve

Personally, I usually apply several coats of primer depending on what type of paint you're using &, for that matter, what type of primer. One coat of Duplicolor primer doesn't cover squat! And on the other hand, one coat of Testors primer would probably be sufficient if you're using enamels or Testors lacquers. I usually use a good 5-6 coats of Duplicolor primer, but then again I'm using automotive paints, so the more primer the better to protect against "crazing" or "ghosting". Steve

I think it's a lot of hub-bub about nothing. Scott from Minnesota is the only one so far that I've seen on this thread that didn't have an interest in looking at these posts, & yet he had the perfect solution.....Don't look at them! As far as a post being buried, are our egos that fragile that if we don't receive the "appropriate" number of responses to a post we fall into depression or something? Anyone who cares to go back & find these "lost posts" will do so, & as we all know, it only takes one to bring back a post from 4 years ago! It'll all blow over in very short order. I don't see the problem. Steve

Here's a stock version I built many years ago. Steve

Yup, I know some like it that way. Just call it a "bugaboo" of mine. I just can't do it! Steve

I hear ya. I just don't have the patience for the 6000 to start. That's pretty fine. Especially now that I'm using the Duplicolor clear. The Duplicolor seems to be a lot harder than the Testors clears. It takes long enough as is to grind it smooth with the 3200. With 5 coats of color & another 4 or 5 of clear, I don't worry too much about burning through the paint. Although it can still happen. Steve

I start with the finest grit possible Roger. That usually is the 3200 depending on how much orange peel or other imperfections I need to remove. I know some guys are okay with a little bit of orange peel but it drives me crazy! I have to get it down as smooth as I can before I shine it up. That might be part of the problem. Steve

I use pads usually starting at about 3200 to sand away any orange peel & then working my way up to 12000. The problem seems to be the heavier grits. Sometimes I'm missing deeper scratches from the 3200 grit that are not really noticeable until I've gotten through the finer grits. Not wanting to go all the way back through the process, I'm usually able to get them out using liquid polish. But it requires a little rubbing. That's why I thought a little polish on a polishing wheel for the Dremel @ 10,000 RPM, (5,000 is too slow) might save me some work. Steve

Thanks Bill! Working on"little brother" right now. A '65 Chrysler 300. Steve

Thanks guys. I was just curious more than anything. I've been using "Micro-Mesh" polishing pads for quite a while & occasionally have a bit of an issue with getting out fine scratches after polishing with them. They're not too hard to remove, but it does require some elbow grease & I thought if anybody had good luck with doing a light final polish with the Dremel, I might give it a shot. I am a little nervous about it as there are a lot of things that could go wrong so I'll probably just stick to the old elbows! Steve

I agree that it makes things a little "messy", but it will all go back to normal soon & anyone who is worried about a buried build can always re-post if they feel it's warranted. Steve

That should be an easy one! Steve

One thing that I do occasionally is after a build is finished & is no longer of interest to anybody, I delete the photos & replace them with a link to my Fotki account. That way I open up space for down loading new pics & still leave photos for anyone who wants t go back to see something. Steve

Go to the top right hand corner of the page & click on your name. Then click on "My Settings". In the left hand column of the page that comes up, you'll see "Manage Attachments". Click on that & you'll be able to see all of the pics you have posted. Click on the boxes to check & then click on "Delete Selected" to delete which ever ones you care to get rid of. Then go get a Photobucket account. Steve

Anybody use a variable speed Dremel for polishing bodies? Steve