StevenGuthmiller

Another little fun fact for you. My 1:1 '67 Chrysler 300 had the same hubcaps as the '68. This was not something that someone did "after market". Chrysler had a tendency to run a little late, (or early, depending ow you look at it) with their wheel covers. In early '67, they used the '66 hubcaps. Later that year they introduced the '68 style caps & used them on the '67s. So when I build my '67 with 1968 hubcaps, it will be factory correct! Steve

I pick up most of mine one-bay. Sometimes they can cost you, but other times you can get a pretty good deal. I picked this one up in pretty nice shape for $35.00. Steve

Don't mean to "Hijack" but this is the '59 Edsel I just recently re-built. Mine was the "Jr. Craftsman" kit. You've probably already seen this but I thought it might help get you revved up! Always helps me to see where I'm trying to wind up. Steve

Thanks Wayne! I love these old Johan kits & you're right, the molding was so crisp & clean! Never have problems with burying anything under layers of paint like other kits from the era. Never been to "NNL North" I just have never really been into the shows & contests. Not much of that sort of thing going on locally & I've never had the desire to drive 100 miles or more to do one. Maybe someday! Steve

Those builds are Ron's Wayne. Credit where credit is due. Steve

Boy! You can't get a better resolution than that! Too bad all of our paint issues don't just resolve themselves! Steve

Here's my "girlie" ride. 240 ponies for a fuel injected 4 banger isn't too bad. That translates to 480 horses for Mike's V-8. Steve

I thought it may have been a Newport. Sorry I can't help with the wheel covers Chris. You could always use a set of Modelhaus wire wheels. These old Mopars always looked great with wires. I've used them on several builds. Very nice!! Steve

My dad Had a red & white '58 Ford. I never saw it as I was too young at the time. But I do remember a story he told me about it. He said he bought it used & kept having engine trouble with it for the first few months. He kept taking it to the shop to have them look at it but they could never get it to run right. Turns out, it had the interceptor engine in it & nobody knew it. Steve

Thanks guys! How about a New Yorker family photo. As far as I know, these are the only New Yorkers produced in kit form in 1/25th scale. Aside from the Johan promos. That is unless the '62 Revell kit was a New Yorker. Or was it a Newport? Steve

Hey, I think any time you get to see a bunch of the same type of car in one place is a good thing! Steve

Another good practice would be to paint your roof first, then when you mask, all you have to cover is a small area. I paint the roof first then cover it with masking paper & a minimal amount of Tamiya tape between the colors. You can get a roll of masking paper at any home improvement store for 6-8 bucks. Enough to last you forever. I think you would probably have good luck polishing out the damage. As long as your paint is "deep" enough to take it, & there's no issues with the paint that caused the problem in the first place. Steve

Thanks everybody. I guess unless someone comes out with a '61 Desoto, I'm done with this body style for a while. I know Modelhaus did a resin '61 Desoto, so maybe some day. Steve

This one will be all one color. I'm sort of doing a tribute build for a good high school friend who is no longer with us. He had a dark maroon '64 4 door hardtop with a black & white interior back in school. I've never been a huge fan of the styling of the '63-'64 Chryslers, but I've grown to appreciate the "art deco" styling of the '64 especially. Steve

I have a pair of '63s as well one hardtop & a convertible. The convertible is a little rough but the hardtop will be built someday. This will basically be the first installment of my '62-'68 300 builds. I have a '65 & a '66 waiting in the wings to be built soon as well as a '62. The rest will be coming also, but a little later. I don't want to get burnt out on 300s! Steve

I was wondering the same thing for my '64 300 build. I was going to do red primer with over spray, but maybe I need to do a little more research. Although, a lot of these cars were immediately undercoated for rust protection anyway & would have been black. Steve

Another good color in my opinion is the metallic "Mint Green". Maybe not the most attractive color, but it was very popular in the late 60s-early 70s. When the day comes to build my '68 300, it will be that color. Steve

I agree. There was obviously something going on with the paint too. Sometimes it's hard to come up with a reason for these things. Could have been a combination of things. Steve In the winter, I set a lot of parts in front of the fireplace in my family room to dry paint or glue faster. That's how I found out that heat & masking tape don't mix. Steve

I don't mind the "thread hijacking" Ron. I like seeing other peoples builds. gives me ideas! Steve

Yes it is Squadron Green Dave. It does shrink a bit, but I really haven't had much problem with it. Much better than the Testors stuff!! Steve

I use heat to force dry paint all the time, just not when there's masking tape involved. The heat will make the adhesive on the tape soft & you'll wind up with more adhesive on your paint than the tape. I've also had reactions with the paint that look exactly like what happened to Chris with heat & masking tape. It can do some funny things when you get moisture &-or heat involved. Let's just say it's a good thing to avoid. Steve

Thanks Scott!! Steve

I've had lots of problems over the years with regular masking tape. I was a drywall taper/painter for 25 years & have probably gone through 10,000 rolls of it in that time. It can be fine in most circumstances, but occasionally it can be a real problem. I've had many issues with it leaving behind adhesive for a variety of reasons. Moisture, heat, etc. As far as models go I've had it do everything from leaving behind adhesive that's impossible to remove, to actually ripping paint right off of a body. I guess everybody has their own experiences with a particular item, but personally, regular masking tape never touches my builds directly on paint. Steve

Very nice Richard. Pretty close to what I'm planning. Mine will be "Silvertone Blue" & white 2-tone with the up-top & the connie kit. Factory stock of course. Steve

Am I seeing things Al, or has the Chrysler had the hood glued shut, & rather heavily? That could be an issue. Steve