StevenGuthmiller

Blushing is not a problem at all with Duplicolor paints. It happens quite often. you don’t need to do anything to correct it in order to shoot more coats. You don’t even have to do anything to it in order to clear coat. The clear coat will eliminate the problem. If you’re not using a clear coat, and you still have some blushing after your final color coat, just polish it a little as Wayne suggested. Steve

Another one done with white glue and embossing powder. Steve

I have the opposite opinion. I think that the small granular texture of embossing powder looks much closer to the short pile carpets seen in most vehicles over the long fibers of flocking. Flocking looks more like “shag” carpet to me. Steve

Try embossing powder. And thin your glue with water. I thin it down probably 1:1. With embossing powder, there's no need to "sift" it. Just dump it on, shake it around, and pour off the excess. Steve

I've been using some of these chalk markings on the last few projects that I've built. There's really no meaning behind them, but they definitely add interest. It's funny how the simple addition of a few strokes with some white paint on a brush will garner a considerable amount of attention at a show. These markings, as well as the usual presence of an inspection sticker on the windshield, has kind of become my signature. Steve

Yup. The Testors silver enamel worked in much the same way. But it wasn't very stable. Almost a chalky like surface that another coat of a colored enamel wouldn't bite into. It was for that reason that the coats applied after the silver were basically just floating on top and the adhesion was very poor. My assumption is that a different silver would work much better. Steve

Absolutely no idea. I just picked the number out of the air! Steve

Thanks fellas!! Steve

I used to use Testors metallic silver enamel years ago almost exclusively as a primer. But it became evident as time went on that nothing stuck to it very well, and as long as you didn't mind the color coats peeling off with the masking tape in huge sheets, it was a great primer! My suggestion, if you decide to try silver paint, is to choose something else. Steve

If I remember correctly, his short "intense" role ended with a bullet between the eyes. Steve

Thanks everyone! Your comments are appreciated! Some more minor advancements. Today, I added a battery ground cable to the engine, the brake line to the master cylinder and the steering box to the firewall. I then completed the radiator and radiator bulkhead, and weathered the added parts. I'm on the verge of being able to install the engine and firewall into the chassis, and then route the remaining wires and hoses to their terminals. Final assembly is finally ready to begin. Steve

Yup, it's toast! You absolutely need to start over. Those are a little more than "blemishes". That's what most of us would call "a mess". Take JollySipper's advice, (and everyone else's) and strip it, and then prime it.......well! Steve

I understand, but as Round 2 has begun re-releasing old kits that were thought gone forever, (many much older than the ERTL kits of the 70s) I can see no reason why the molds might not still exist, and if so, no reason why it may not be released again. That was my only point. Steve

And it's gonna stay that way unless you post some photos that aren't broken links. Steve

I can't even begin to describe to you how easy those would be to make from scratch!! Steve

Mostly personal preference, but you need to be certain that the clear that you’re using will not adversely affect your decals. Foil doesn’t matter much, but I find that I get a better result if I foil after clear. Steve

Now it's time to get the remainder of the engine compartment plumbing and wiring underway in anticipation of installing the engine and firewall. First, I fabricated some power steering lines. Steve

IMG_7057.MOV Steve

Thanks Bill! Another step closer. Door panels are finished, except for the door lock buttons, which will be added at final assembly. Steve

The convertible isn't too bad. Any inaccuracies are relatively minor. The problems come with the hard top. The top is pretty badly out of whack. It's most likely the same sort of issues that arose with some of the earlier AMT kits. The convertibles were the standard bearer, and the hard tops were somewhat of an after thought, so the tops were occasionally a little lacking. Most likely the same problem here. Trumpeter most likely just added a top to the convertible body, and just didn't get the proportions right in the end. By the way, your convertible is lovely!! Steve

A large part of the problem with all of these "chrome alternative" threads is that there are a large portion of us who are not particularly thinking of the finish of most of them per say, as they can all produce at least a semi-acceptable chrome finish, but the big question in our minds is about durability. That question never seems to get a definitive answer. As a rule, just a lot of vague responses with no real concrete resolutions. Mostly just guesses. Personally, durability is ALL that I care about. Otherwise, they're basically all the same with differing methods of application. I guess what I want to see with any of these products instead of simple bumper after simple bumper, is for someone to do a chrome part that's going to require some fairly extensive detailing after chrome. Grille washes, badge detailing, etc, and see what the finish looks like after, and then I'll be able to fully assess the product and whether or not it's something that I want to investigate. Steve

Thanks Greg. That's why we're all here after all. To share and learn from one and other. Steve

Got the Alclad on the interior parts, as well as the remaining small exterior pieces this morning. Honestly, I still don't understand why the feverish search for alternatives still continues when Alclad has been under our noses for years. I don't see any reason at all to look for another "chrome paint". Steve

Got the holes drilled in the door panels for the handles and cranks. Now I'm ready for paint! Then it's just a matter of installing them, adding the arm rests and pads, and carpeting the lower portion of the door. Steve

Yes. I still have to lay out the exact location of the cranks on the door panels, and then I'll drill the holes. Steve