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RancheroSteve

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Everything posted by RancheroSteve

  1. I'd be inclined to go for that if the price was reasonable. A little while back there was someone who was going to do a more correct version of the Mail Box Chopper (including the Crosley engine) but I guess there wasn't enough interest to make it feasible.
  2. I have the Retro Hobby re-issues - I'd like to get a Black Max, but it seems they are fairly rare and go for pretty big $$ when they come up. As you can see on the box, the Black Max was designed by Harry Bradley, who also designed the Deora, among other cars. http://www.kustomrama.com/index.php?title=Harry_Bradley
  3. Great score, Chuck! I think there's one more - the Cobra Chopper: http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/mpc-instructions/motorcycles--atv/mpc-cobra-chopper-1/
  4. This rather sad looking Ranchero has been parked in the same spot for a couple of weeks. The driver's door is held closed with a strap.
  5. Well, those LS wheels are the best Chaparral wheels I know of, so that would make sense.
  6. Here you go, Ed. From the Strada Sports website. Wheels & tires - they look rather nice! http://www.stradasports.com/HRM421.jpg
  7. Hey, thanks guys - I just noticed this got bumped up and that there are a couple of questions. 1. For the number on the back, I scanned the kit decal and made a stencil from it. Not perfect (it's hard to get it to lay down perfectly) but I think it was an improvement. 2. JB, I'll have to check and see if I have any wheels left. Good to know about the HRM wheels. 3. Yes - you're correct - this and a few of the other Monogram sports racing cars of the time did double duty as slot car bodies. The Ferrari 275P and rear-engined Scarab spring to mind. I've built both of those - they're simple curbside kits that respond to a little extra detailing - satisfying enough, especially if you're into that era of cars - I am obviously!
  8. While out riding around today I spotted this "project":
  9. A guy drove up in this while I was waiting for a burrito: By the way "copy & paste" seems to work from Fotki.
  10. I sell model kits and other items occasionally on that well-known auction site. Once in a while I'll say something the effect of "from a smoke-free home". I've often wondered if it makes much of a difference to most buyers, but maybe it does?
  11. Thanks for the photo credit, Tim - I'm happy to provide. Great write-up on the display and contest! Sorry I missed meeting you there - it would have been good to get a picture of you and Keeler in front of the display.
  12. Nothing mass-produced (as far as I know). There might be resin bodies available?
  13. Thanks, Steve. Nothing is soldered - it's all just (the same dimension) individual strips, bent & glued, so I'm guessing it's a camera angle/illusion thing if they look different. I know some guys who electroplate their trim, but that's a little beyond my reach - for this build at least.
  14. This Metropolitan (it's for sale). Looks like it may have some rust issues: And this Pacer:
  15. Larry - I'm just using regular Zap CA glue - it seems to be working just fine. Here's a bit more progress - I've shortened up the interior (as you can see, I'll be using the custom interior panels and seat) and added a package shelf behind the seat. Here it is test-fitted into the body:
  16. Out back, I've added yet more brass strip to represent the trim that runs between the taillights. This isn't part of the kit or the resin body, but I didn't want the taillight chrome to just end and float in space. This will give me two clean strips that I can foil. It's actually a better fit than it appears here - I only need to lightly push the bumper down. As you can see, I've also de-chromed the bumper - I'll Alclad it later. And I think I might as well remove the back-up lights.
  17. Just saw this sad news - Corvette racer John Greenwood passed away: http://vintageracecar.com/john-greenwood-1944-2015/
  18. Yes, I would definitely say that this saved me time over doing it myself, and the price was right (around $15). Another part of my motivation in doing this one is in preparation for a similar conversion I have in mind that I will have to do myself.
  19. I'll be using the custom front end treatment (grille and headlights) from the 2 in 1 kit. The resin body also uses the kit hood. After some some sanding/filling/sanding, things are starting to fit reasonably well. The center nose piece is separate (just pushed into place here) and will be attached later.
  20. Hey - nice to know, Kerry! The Ponchomino is a cool idea, especially as I've never been that crazy about the roof on the Catalina - a bit too clunky in my opinion. And of course I dig Rancheros, El Caminos, and utes in general. I had already cut down the wheel houses as you suggested. The bed floor is up against the top of the chassis pan - I don't think it can go any lower without some major surgery, so I'm going to work with it as is. Thanks.
  21. Thanks Bill! Like I implied earlier, the Flintstone bodies I've seen aren't anything like Modlehaus quality, but they're very affordable and there are some very cool subjects available. Lots of interesting conversions for current kits if you want to do something a bit different. I've been using Zap a Gap (medium) to attach the brass - it seems to be doing the job. The great thing to me about brass is that it's hard enough to hold an edge, yet can be sanded when needed.
  22. The brass I'm using for the bed and windshield trim is 1/64" x 1/32".
  23. The resin body - like the kit body - has molded in wipers, which I'm not a fan of. Since this is going to be a mild custom (somewhat inspired by the box art), I've removed the wipers, added more brass for the windshield trim and filled the cowl vents.
  24. After cutting off the top of the rear inner fenders and shortening the rear a little, the chassis pan looks like it fits pretty well: But it turns out the bed floor prevents the pan from sitting up high enough, especially at the rear. So that's part of the reason I skirted the lower edge of the body. Better, but there's another issue at the rear: the rear frame cross member sticks out too far. OK, I think I can deal with that without too much trouble. Onward . . .
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