microwheel

Hi Tim nice work on the chassis detail so far, especially for your first attempt my friend. As for your fuel line. Usually they hug the inside frame rail on the passenger side with metal tie straps to hold them to the chassis, (or opposite side from your brake line). You can drill a small hole with a pin vise at the front center top of the gass tank since most cars of that era, especially GMs ran to the fuel pick up on the top of the tank and ran out and over the rear end to the frame rail. So for you car, with it upside down, (obviously), run it from the center area of the front of the fuel tank, out under the rear end angled toward the left (or passenger side), then hug the inside of that side's suspension traction bar, turn it out toward the frame rail as you clear the traction bar and hug the inside of the frame rail all the way to the front of the car till you get it around the fuel pump area of the car. Sorry I don't have a detail reference pic to help you out with at the moment, but hopefully my discription helps you out.

The brake work is looking good Fred. I did the front brakes the exact same way with my BM Camaro build as your doing with your backs on this one. It'll work, just make sure you have clearence for the outer caliper halves.

Nice work so far Phil

Cool project to do a rebuild with. Gonna be interesting to see what you do with it.

Nice work so far Mike, I really like the design concept your doing.

Thanks, the engines will get started on soon I hope.. I usually do them and the chassis detail around the same time so I can check fitment as I add detail.

Next up was to start the interior assembly... I started by attaching seat belts to the rear seat and cementing the rear seat to the interior tub . I then added the rear arm rests and photo etched ashtrays to the armrests which are supplied with the 66 nova detail set from the Model Car Garage. Next I added seat belts to the front seat and cemented the front seat in place. I then add the front arm rests. I will be adding the door handles and window cranks when they get here. I still have the dash to work on and I also need to make a rear tailgate interior panel. I'll be doing that in the coming days. But this is pretty much where Im at for now. Once I get the wagon interior done, I'll be working on Pop's Toy interior More to come as I get it done guys.. Thanks for checking it out so far. Comments are always welcome.

Next up I made some seat belts out of photo etched seat belt hardware and aftermarket seat belt material from The Model Car Garage, and set them aside for later. ( I got to order some more seat belt hardware to do pop's toy with since I used most of what I had on hand for this one). Next, since I didn't need the interior side panels from the doner kit for the wagon, I cut them up to scavenge the arm rests from them, to add better ones to the Bandit Resins supplied interior tub. It took alot of careful cutting and sanding but I got what I needed out of them. Then they were primed, painted and BMF foiled and set aside.

Next up I started work on the interior for mom's toy, (the wagon). It will be done in GM Nassau Blue Metallic. The seats were painted and then the vinyl areas masked off and then the centers of both seats were over coated with model masters lusterless flat dull coat. When that was dry, the center buttons were given the BMF treatment. Sorry if a few of the pics are kinda crappy. Next up the interior tub was pimered in tamiya fine white primer and then color coated. The detail level on the interior tub is kinda thin so I intend to inhance it with scratch made arm rests and aftermarket door handles and window cranks (when that order comes in) I BMF foiled what detail I could on the interior tub in the mean time. In the pics below you can see how thin the detail level is. But It's still a great job by bandit resins to include the tub and seats for the conversion body. I'm sure better modelers than me could work magic with detailing it as it is. Next up using flat blue paint and medium blue embossing powder purchased at Hobby Lobby, I brushed a coating of the flat blue on the floor area and while it was still wet I coated it with a dusting of the emossing powder.

I hear ya guys, believe me, I have ran across this issue before, and it takes some work to get em close. I spent a lot of redo's on it, but think I got it about as close as I can I know I haven't posted much on these builds, but I have been plugging away at em. So tonight I thought I would post what I've done so far. I'm still waiting for a order to come in with a few more aftermarket things for them , but hopefully that will be here in a few days. Tonights updates will take a couple of posts from me, so be patient while I get everything up. Im a slow typer and a bad speller so it takes me a little while to get my posts written yup. Check back a few times till you see the past of my posts if your interested. To start with, I got both chassis painted. I primered both chassis and then gave them a overspray look with each cars respective colors. The gas tanks were painted metalizer stainless steel and the front sub-frames were painted Tamiya semi-gloss black. Later on both chassis will get detailed out with their respective front and rear suspensions and fine detail such as brake and fuel lines. But at least I got the base paint work done on them. I still may do a slight wash to bring out more of the molded on detail. You'll get the idea as I get em done.

Nice detail work on the engine Tim.

Thanks everyone, here is a link to the under glass post for it for anyone interested. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95918&hl=%2B70.5+%2Bbaldwin+%2Bmotion

It should look nice when your done, especially if it comes out anywhere even close to your rendering.

Evening guys, and thanks for the comment Tim. Wet sanding and polishing is my least favorite part of modeling, but a nessasary evil I guess. That's why the updates are slow in coming. I used a combination of Tamiya Dark Mica Blue lacquer for the base coat with a single coat of Tamiya acrylic blue to tone down the metal flake in the mica blue, and then several coats of clear over that. The problem is, after painting everything, I elected to go with a stock hood instend of the aftermarket hood I had originally painted with the body, and Im having a hard time getting the color shaded correctly on the new hood. It either turns out too dark compared to the body, or too light. I've had to strip it down and repaint it 3 times already, and am now on the 4th try. Until I get this dang hood right, my brain is stuck on it and wont let me move on to other parts of the build lol. Anyone else have that happen to them? You know, like, when your brain get's stubornly stuck on fixing and issue and holds up the hole build because of it lmao.

I've heard of the Humbrol brand of paints before, but have to admit I haven't heard of Maskol. I'll have to check and see of my LHS has it and maybe give it a try. Looks like it works pretty good from what I see of your pics.

Nice Cudas Guys. Dang I was up so late last night I had forgotten I had already posted in this thread. But Im glad I came back and looked at all the new posts.

Howdy Kenny, nice work so far. I love the custom look. The way you did the wrap around front glass and flowed the rear deck area into the body, and then created the perfect custom interior to go with it, was just some outstanding work, and is gonna make your bird a head turner when finished.

Morning Stray, I just got around to going through your entire post on this build. Your doing some top notch detailing and scratch building work here. Sorry to hear what happened to your initial paint job. Yup have had that happen a time or two. And though it sucks to do it, it's worth the strip down and redo. Especially putting this much detail work into it. I always end up having a love/hate relationship with my builds when I do alot of detail and modifying work on them. But the end result always makes it worth the fuss. You are doing a fantastic job my friend.

Got a little bit done on Mom's Toy the past few days. Got the body wet sanded and polished out, and started working on the BMF foil work for it. Here is a reference pic of the final look I'm after for the wagon. Although Mom's toy will be quite a bit darker blue as you will see in the pics. I will try to take better pics of both bodies outside in the sun as soon as I get the time. Here is a few quick pics I took tonight of the body cleaned up and the BMF foil work started on it. I just stuck the unfinished grill in place to get a idea of how it will look and fit to the resin body. I hope to be able to work a little more often on these 2 in the comings days and have a little bit more frequent updates.

Thanks Nicholas, I know what ya mean. Mine had a 327 also and a 4 speed. I just had a problem keeping starters in it for some reason and had to push start it alot. And believe me it sucked having to push start it on dates sometimes lol. Thanks alot Mike, I only wish I had more time on the workbench to get alot more done with them. That and Im still waiting one a few last detail supplies to come through the snail mail for them.

Tim, for the brake proportioning valve, I scratch make them out of evergreen plastic strips, most hobby stores carry it though I don't think Michaels does. Hobby Lobby might though, if they dont carry everygreen brand they may carry plastruct brand. Most Local hobby stores that carry train supplies will usually have both brands. It comes it different sizes so you'll have to kinda guess what size will be big enough. Just buy some plastic strips and plastic round rod and then cut and sand, glue together and drill out to the shape you want it. If you cant find any, then you can always use a piece of scrap plastic parts sprue (tree) from your model kit and then cut and sand shape it to look like you want it to. It's really more of a use your imagination or research the real car as best you can on google to get a idea of what they should look like.

I like the detailed mods you've done to the chassis Fred. And I really like the way you do your exhaust systems.

Hi Tim, you can also look for my 70 1/2 baldwin motion camaro for more chassis references. Here is a link for the workbench topic for it. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=94747&hl=%2Bbaldwin+%2Bmotion+%2Bcamaro The e-brakes run a little different on it than they would on your chevelle, but the rear brake lines should be pretty much the same. As far as brake and fuel line material, any soft metal bead wire about the same gauge as scale plug wire will work just fine, or you can use scale plug wire and just paint it with steel or aluminum model masters metalizer or tamiya bright silver. You can also strip the outer coating off of scale plug wire and use the core for e-brake cable material. I've done that many time.

Thanks alot Mike, I hope to get more ready to update in a couple days. Thanks alot Darryl, I had a yellow 66 nova ss back when I was a teen. I even was brave enough to add leopard skin seat covers. The seats were cool for the time I guess. At least the girls I dated back then liked them lol. I sure wish I still had that car today that's for sure.

Thanks alot, I was really happy with the way the red turned out on this one. I don't always have that good of luck with it.