microwheel

Ditto what Dan said Tom.

Nice interior work Dave.

Beautiful paint and foil work Steven

You did a fantastic job on this one Carl. I love the old wagons.

Onr of my favorite years for the Chrysler 300 Pr-painted body or not, it came out nice.

Beautiful Caddy, I really love the color choice.

Nice vette Carl. This is the frist time I've seen it.

very nicely build.

Nice job Pat, firsts are always the toughest ones, but they also help you figure so much out.

I'm glad I am able to offer whatever I can to help fellow modelers. So many have helped me over the years, and back in the day when I started learning seriously about model building, the internet was very young and almost no info about model building floating around on it. But I was lucky enough to have alot of local builders that visited the local hobby shop pass their help, tips, and knowledge on to me. So if I can do the same for others, I'm only too glad to help.

Tim Dont use lacquer thinner with Testors acrylic. It will mess up the paint big time! I should have stated use lacquer thinner with Model Masters regular Enamels only. NOT THEIR ACRYLIC ENAMELS.

Nice work on the paint Tim. I to like using Tamiya acrylics as well. I use them with a 50/50 mix of denatured Alcohol. Both base and clears. They dry fast, hard, and smooth that way, and I've never needed to dehydrate them with that mix. Most times they are ready for wet sanding and polishing with 24 to 48 hours. I spray with my airbrush and compressor set at between 18 and 22 psi when I paint that ratio and usually get very little orange peel if any. I also use Model Masters Enamels mixed 50/50 with hardware store cheap brand lacquer thinner and it too has been going on nice for me.. though I do let it gas out for about a week before wet sand and polish. The vette was done with that combo. Of couse I custom mixed the model masters colors to get the base color I wanted. Just thought I'd pass on another way of applying it. But your idea seem to work out outstanding as well.. May give it a shot myself on a future build. Minus the dehydrator (never been a fan of them).

Hi Pat, I personally think you did a good job with the script. When I work with any of the script stuff from the Model Car Garage, I usually apply it with Testors clear gloss lacquer (the stuff in the bottle) (their flat lacquer, if im putting script on flat paints.),You don't need more than a small drop in the area your putting the script and it holds good and gives a little moving around time. Not much, but enough to adjust if you get your part close to where you want it to start with. As for getting tape glue off the paint. I usually use Novus 2 which is a polish, and can be bought at most hobby stores, and it will clean up tape glue and smudges. I had so many issues with tape glue using regular masking tape, that I ended up spending a little extra at hobby lobby and getting Tamiya's masking tape from their model section. It comes in different wideths which is handy for both bodies and small parts and jobs, and it doesn't leave marks and glue behind when you remove it.

Nice touch on the decal work Joe. And nice save to find that ya needed em lol. I had a little save of my own today, with a parts box AC radiator I had painted up to go in the vette, and then found I forgot to put it on the car before assembling the body and chassis. Good thing I had to do some work that required removing the hood this morning or I would have never seen it was missing.

I'd love to find a old lift back version of one of these. I owned so may Vegas back in the late 70's and 80's. I would love to build a kit of one, sometime down the road. I like where your going with this one.

While I had the hood off, I added a scratch made decal for the AC compressor, and the AC radiator that I forgot to install earlier. I also took some time the past few days to add the rear chrome work such as the rear bumpers and the rear light bazels and the fuel door which I detail with body color paint and decal. As well as adding the photo-etched script from the photo-etched detail set from the model car garage. I would have used their photo-etched fuel door that came with the detail set as well, but it seemed that it was just a little too big.. more for 1/24 scale I think. I also added the photo-etched soft top hardware. That's pretty much where Im at for now.. Still lots of finishing up work to do, but its only a day or two from being done at this point.. I hope anyways lol Thanks for checking out the build..

Afternoon Guys, this will probably be my last update before finishing the vette up and posting it underglass. One Issue that was really bugging me was that the front edge of the hood say up way to much, and I couldn't get it to sit down no matter what I tried. So I decided to do something about it. This is how it looked and why it was bugging me. So I carefully cut the pins loose that held the hood into the body, and then drilled holes on each side to insert new pins later. And while I had the hood off I went ahead and added the 427 script on each side of the hood scoop. I then carefully bent the hood setting in back inplace often to check for fit. I did this several times till the hood finally layed down like it should. Some of the issue was warpage and some, such as the very hi point on the nose, seemed to be more Revell not molding that area of the hood just right. While I couldnt fix that part.. I was able to get the hood to lay and look much better. Once I had the hood laying like it should, I made new pins for the hood and cemented the pin in place for the passenger side, leaving the drivers side out till I got the hood set in place. With the hood back in place on the car and in the open position, I slid the drivers side pin through the hole I made in the hood support tab and cemented the end of it so it would stay put. The resault was a much better setting hood. Continued in next post below.

Got a little more done on the vette the past couple of days. I still got alot more to go, but thought I would at least post something to show where things are. Excuse my messy and somewhat unorganized workbench. I normally try to take my pics off the bench, but I didn't have much time this evening to set up my pic taking area. Got the front grill, bumper, and turn signal chrome peices on. Also got the winshield frame and windshield, the side vents and glass(want a pain all that was), as well as the sun visors and rear view mirror. I also got the up-top base painted in a nice testor desert sand flat color which really goes well with the car. I still have to detail paint the inside of the top and get the rear glass installed, as well as tons on trim, script, and decals. I've worked off and on trying to adjust the way the front hood lays in the body, and still it seems to sit up just a smidge. I'm not sure why yet, but before I call this thing done, I'll figure it out. I also still need to do alot of touchup and cleanup work. But it's getting there. I'm not sure how much more I may post on the build before finishing this one up. But if I do, it shouldn't be to much more. Otherwise the next post may be in the underglass section. Thanks for following along everyone.

Nice touch on the wheels and tires. They should look nice on the car.

Well I used the photo etched dash top on my BM camaro and it did interfear the first time. I originally cut the kit dash top using the photo etched piece as a templete. I ended up taking it back apart and triming another 16th of an inch off the original dash to make up for the clearence needed for the front glass to fit. If I ever build another one of these kits and use the photo etched dash top, I will remember to allow for that right from the start.

Nice wagon.

Nicely done.

Top notch Jim. Very clean. Love the color.

Nice Joe.

Beautiful Richard.