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microwheel

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Everything posted by microwheel

  1. NIce work so far. I should do one of these someday. Like I aint got enough projects going lol.
  2. Ditto what Fred said. Nicely done on the trunk and doors Tim. I'll try to find some time after the weekend to post ya up info on how I do my interior flocking. I got company coming for the weekend and have been spending the past few days getting things spruced up around here for them... The ole Honey Doooo list keeps growing lol.
  3. Very nice work so far
  4. I've had that happen a time or two before Ray. It has nothing to do with the type of paint you used. More than likely there was still some left over mold release oil around the areas that lifted. There have been a few rare times, where even after I had washed all the parts, and thought I had washed them thoroughly, and got my primer and paint done, and needed to mask off the car for a two tone paint job, where I had a couple of spots lift like you discribed, when I removed the masking tape. And a time or two during BMF foiling that I had the same issues. Once it was so bad the only fix was to strip the model back down to bare plastic and re-wash it and then repaint it. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. Now when I wash my kits, I fill my kitchen sink half full with warm water and a generous amount of Dawn dishsoap, and let them soak a good hour in the stuff, before rinsing and drying them off. I even take a few minutes to brush the high areas, and the recessed areas, gently with a old toothbrush a time or two during the soaking time. That helps remove any mold release oils laying along the edges and in the recess areas like door and trunk seams. One last thing I do, which might be a little over kill, is I give the model, especially the body, a gentle wipe down with a cotton cloth soaked in 70% isopropyl alcohol, just in case there is still any release oil, or oils from my hands, still lingering on the body before I start any primer or paint. SInce doing all of that, I haven't had a problem with primer or paint lifting off.
  5. Some nice engineering work you did there Pat
  6. Linkage Rods, coil, oil dipstick and spring detail painted and intalled. Fuel line from the Tee fitting to the Fuel pump made and attached with a scratch made fuel filter. Tranny dip stick and the distributor base with vacuum advance installed. That's pretty much where I am up to date at the moment. I'll post more as I get it done. Thanks for looking and comments and suggestions are always welcome.
  7. Next I made a accelerator return spring by stripping the insulatiion back from a piece of scale plug wire and wrapping it around a straight pin. It was then cut away and shaped and then set aside to be added to the carb later. Next up I wanted to make the tranny and oil dipsticks. I started by gathering up a few materials and tools to make them. I cut a couple of pieces of large scale craft wire. And then a piece of scale heater hose to use as the stick stops. I also used some of the Lex's scale fuel line, flattened and bent into shape as the pull tops. Once I had them made and shaped, they were detail painted and set aside to be added to the engine later. Next I wanted my distributor to have a vacuum advance, so I found a old kit distributor with a vacuum advance for the doner, in my parts bin. I drilled it out for the vacuum line and added it to the base of a MAD distributor. I then painted the base and set it aside to be added to the engine later. The cap and wires from the MAD kit, I used the base from, wont be used, I have a red cap with yellow wires on order that will be used once the order comes in, but the base at least can be used since they are the same in all the MAD distributor kits. This was set aside to be added to the engine later. Next I drilled out for a coil wire and painted the Nova kit supplied coil flat black (the body will get painted red later since I want the body red and the top black), and covered the coil bracket with bare metal foil. I later painted the body between the bracket and top red, (forgot to take a pic of it at that point. Sorry) and set it aside to be added to the engine later. Once all these parts were made, and detailed I installed them on the engine. Pics of the parts installed on the engine in the following post.
  8. Morning Guys. Worked some more on the wagon engine over the weekend. Started getting some of the detail work done. Still got more to do, but I got alot of the harder stuff done. Mostly just plug wiring, the cooling system plumbing, and a few little odds and ends left to finish up on the engine at this point. My plan is to start working on the SS 327 engine for the Nova SS today so I can get them both to the same point and then finish them up together, then I can move on to the chassis and suspension for both builds. Today's updates will take a couple of posts to get them all in, so bare with me and keep checking back, if your interested, untill I get everything posted. I started with getting the carb detailed. Using a combination of photo-etched parts from The Model Car Garage and Detail Master, and fuel line from Lex's Scale Modeling. The first thing I did was add the linkage and a vacum advance line to the carb. Next I made the double feed fuel line by combining a Pro-Tech Tee Fitting, some Plastruct .040 hex rod that was cut to size and drilled out for the fittings, and a piece of the Fuel line from Lex's Scale Modeling. The fuel line assembly was detail painted and attached to the carb. Next I cut a couple of pieces of the fuel line material, and flattened them on one end to combine with a couple of the Model Car Garage photo-etched linkage pieces to make the accelerator and passing gear linkage rods. Once these were made, they were set aside to be added to the carb later. More in the following post.......
  9. Evening Joe, sorry to hear about you dog my friend. I have a little long haired chihuahua named Tina Jean, that I gor from my sister. She's about 9 or 10 now and has been a big comfort to me through many a rough time. I know the day will come when she wont be with me anymore, and I dread that day. I had a cat that was her best friend named scooter and he passed away about 2 years ago. The vet couldn't tell why without doing a autopsy and we elected not to have one, but we suspect he got poisioned somehow. It hits hard when you loose a pet that becomes part of the family, but hang in their buddy. Your engine work is coming along nicely. I really like the way you made your plugwire boots.
  10. Nice work on the interior
  11. Thanks Carl, I hope to have a update the first of the week.
  12. Morning Stray, I like the color your going with. As for me, when I work with Tamiya acrylics, to get it to mix- dry- and look right out of the air brush, I always start with mixing the tamiya acrylic 50/50 with denatured alohol, then I apply one or two mist costs, allowing it to dry for about 10 minutes between coats, then I do one medium coat, allow it to dry for another 10 or 15 minutes then a good wet coat. I never have a problem with fisheye with it. I used to when using tamiya or testors acrylic thinner, but never have with denatured alohol that you can get from any hardware store. I still get my share of orange peel but it wet sands out pretty easy after a couple days of gassing out. I also very seldom sand between coats, I usually just do my paint then after 24 hours, I do a my clear coats the same way I do my color coat. Once everything including the clear has gassed out for 2 or 3 days then I wet sand and plosh out with a good hobby wet sanding finishing kit that most hobby stores carry, an then polish with Novus 2.
  13. I hope to have some more updates after the weekend guys. Had a little puter problem this morning I had to take care of. I think I got er fixed for now though lol.
  14. Thank ya very kindly JC. By the way I see your from Maryland. I grew up as a kid out that way on the Delmarva peninsula. Actually in the state of Delaware.
  15. Thanks Mike Thanks Stray, It really is 1/25th scale. you have to remember the engine it'self is only a small block 283, so a big Holley 750 4 barrel is gonna seem a little big on it. But mamma wants some extra get up and go in her wagon lol.
  16. Howdy Tim, as soon as I get some extra time I will do that for you. Thanks alot Joe
  17. Nice work so far Gerry. Great attention to detail.
  18. Like the color Cory. And your hood pins turned out great.
  19. Afternoon guys. I pretty much got the base assembly done and painted for Mom's Toy (the wagon) engine. It's about ready for detailing. I left the exhaust manifolds off for now and the carburetor is not permanently fixed to the intake manifold yet. The reason for that, is so I detail the carb easier, and for the exhaust manifolds, It's too easy to rub the paint off them while handling the engine during detailing. Here is a few pics for now. I'll post more in a day or so, once I get the detail work done. Then it will be time to work on the 327 engine for Pop's Toy (the Nova SS). I added the resin power steering pump from the BNL Resins Stroker engine kit, and the ALT is one I had in my parts box. I did have to make a lower ALT bracket to stiffen up the mounting of the ALT, that way when the belts are added it won't pull loose. For the fuel pump, I used the one from the mpc 86 el camino kit, and added a little bit of drilled out plastruct hex rod to it for the fittings for the fuel line. The oil filler is from the 66 Nova kit and was de-chromed up to the the filler cap and painted tamiya gloss aluminum. the crappy tab on the side of it was gently modified with my trusty exacto knife and then a hole drilled in it for a throttle return spring bracket. A aftermarket Scale Repos Plus spun aluminum oil filter was added. A butterfly choke was added to the front venturi area of the carb and venteri's were added to the back area of the carb. The carb itself was painted first with Model Masters Metalizer steel and that was given a shot of dull-coat and then the hole carb was dry brushed with Tamiya acrylic Titan Gold to make it look closer to a natural carb color. The jets area of the carb was given a light black wash. Later the carb will get detail with linkage, throttle spring, vacuum lines and fuel lines. I used a starter out of a 69 camaro kit that I have scavenged for parts over the past few years. (so now it's a parts kit lol) It was detail painted metalizer aluminum plate and buffed out, and then trimmed with tamiya semi-gloss black. And the solenoid body was painted in tamiya titan gold. A hole was drilled in the front of the solenoid for a starter wire to be added later. That's pretty much where I'm at for today. I'll post more after I get the engine detailed in a day or two. Thanks for Looking and remember comments and suggestions are always welcome.
  20. Looking good so far Tim. Check your PM messages buddy.
  21. Thanks Stray, but no, only the Alt pulley is metal, the other pulleys are resin cast taken from the BNL Resins 383 stroker engine that I was gonna use and decided to go a different way with the engine. But since I decided not to use the stroker engine, I figured I could still use the pulleys and save my other set of metal pulleys for the 327 engine that will be built for Pop's Toy (the Nova SS).
  22. Cool idea on the hose using medical tape. My wife is a nurse and works for a hospital, maybe I'll see if she can pick me up some.
  23. very cool project. Can't wait to see where you take it.
  24. Thanks Mike. I haven't really decided yet about just how much detail I will add to the carb. Depends on weither I decide to make the air cleaner removable or not. Once I start detailing the engine, I'll have a better idea about just how much detail It will get.
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