Mark

Most of them haven't got a clue about where they are going, but while they are headed there it is an absolute must that they be in front of everyone...

I've got the 1/16 passenger version. Never compared parts count between it and the 1/24 equivalent, but they seem to be much the same, differing only in size. That isn't necessarily a bad thing. The multiple-piece body should have few, if any, sink marks or parting lines if the old-tool Revell bus kits are any indicator.

If you lurk on the HAMB, look up "1948 Anglia Southeast Gassers Build". It's a modern build with a few details that were seldom/never done back in the day: radiator relocated to the rear, modern roll cage. But the fabricated chassis is made of rectangular tubing, the suspension setup is buildable in scale, and the body he's starting with has a nice looking chop. There are a few good chassis shots in there too. He's going with a big-block Chevy and four-speed, looks like it will be one wild ride...

AMT's '29 roadster, MPC's '28/'29 woody/roadster pickup, and Revell's '29 pickup all have hoods (AMT and MPC being one piece, Revell being four individual panels). Only question is if the hot rod roadster's cowl-to-radiator shell dimension is the same as stock. If it is longer, you'll have to cook something up yourself.

If you are swapping in the earlier Revell chassis, you'll be reconstructing the portion from the back of the cab, back. First thing to go will be the coil spring rear suspension. If you are building a curbside version (never to be turned over or looked underneath) then there is no point in swapping chassis, just lengthen the kit piece.

The old paint can still be good, even if the can hasn't got any propellant to push it out. Before decanting, though, get that paint mixed. Solid colors in particular will settle something fierce. Shake, shake, and shake some more, then swirl the can around until the agitator ball slides easily around the bottom of the can. I've revived a can of Pactra Hot Rod Primer...now to find the right thing to spray it with...

I'd like to slap some of those clowns who stick later issue kits in older boxes, especially when the parts don't match from issue to issue. About the body...why cut one up? The body sides on the '60 don't roll under as they should...why not build up the lower edge with sheet plastic, and trace/cut the shape from another body? The kit is what it is, an artifact from another era. If you fix one aspect of it, the rest won't look "right".

I don't think anyone ran an early Olds engine in an Anglia. I couldn't find any info about one. The Shores & Hess "Skipper's Critter" car on the Revell box had a small-block Chevy, with a supercharger added as soon as the rules allowed. It later had a big-block; Shores is credited by many to have been the first to call it the "rat motor" (it was lettered on the injector scoop). That car later had its top chopped; it was destroyed in a crash around 1970. There were a couple of better-known Anglias in the lower Gas classes; one had a Chevy six, another a Hudson. The latter might make an interesting build, with an engine from one of the Moebius kits...

And then there were the match-race only cars (the last of the three Stone, Woods, & Cook Willys fell into this category). A lot of those had fabbed chassis because running at national meets wasn't part of the plan. Mike Mitchell's '33 Willys had a fabbed frame in 1966, but wasn't allowed to run Gas class. Photos of that car from the '66 season show an Altered class designation on the windows. Those smaller car chassis were definitely on the lightweight side in terms of strength. The stock Austin frame was made up of what would be considered heavy gauge sheet metal on this side of the pond, though it did have multiple layers in more critical areas.

NHRA allowed completely fabricated chassis for gassers starting with the 1967 season. Prior to that, guys were cutting off the frame from the firewall forward on some cars, and a lot of reinforcements were needed on more spindly chassis like Willys and Anglia, but there had to be something recognizable from the original one prior to '67.

The Revell kits all have opening doors, making them a bit fiddly if you don't have the patience for that stuff. The Anglia and Thames have a steerable front which connects to the steering wheel, the wheel does move a bit back and forth. The Henry J's flip front end is made up of five pieces (hood, two two-piece fenders) plus the parts to hang it on the chassis. The Austin has a one-piece tilt front with no grille opening or detail (some 1:1 cars did run them like that). There is a steerable front axle in the Henry J/Austin/Willys pickup (same chassis in all) but the assembled axle didn't support the weight of the Willys that I built from the first issue kit back in the day. The bells on the QC rear end don't look like most 1:1 units you'll see, the traction bars are on the skinny side too. The chassis in those three have single round tube side rails, seldom (won't say never) seen on 1:1 cars (fabricated chassis were usually, but not always, rectangular tubing). The Anglia and Thames chassis aren't quite right, the frame rails should be further apart. On the 1:1 cars, the frame rails formed the lower part of the door sill and were visible when the doors were opened. But the chassis in those kits do hold the rest of the car up, and look the part when assembled.

Gene Schwartz ran all three '51 body styles over the years. The hardtop was first. It was wrecked in a towing mishap, and was replaced with a two-door sedan. He got away from drag racing for about 30 years to make a living as a musician. When he came back to nostalgia racing, he built another hardtop, and a few years ago added a Fleetline.

How much of the engines can actually be seen in the completed model? The best solution might be to look for more detailed intake manifolds, carburetors, and distributors, and leave it at that.

Don't sell them short...

If you are buying from them, you're getting it in December regardless...

The kit was originally announced as "twice the size of 1/25 scale", apparently meaning 1/12. It was changed to 1/25 to match all the other Roth car kits, the hut was probably added to put more plastic in the box to justify pricing this kit the same as the other cars.

Looking at the recent book on Arnie Beswick, there is a photo of this scoop on his '61, none showing it on his '62 (which had a louvered hood), and it pops up again on his '63 cars (both Catalina and Tempests). Pete McCarthy's excellent Pontiac performance book also includes a number of photos of this scoop, all on '63 cars. Period photos show the scoop being used minus the trim and screen at the front, but cars put together more recently seem to favor leaving the trim in place.

That one is on a later truck. This scoop is an early Sixties item.

I scratched one (dimensions taken from a 1:1 scoop), cast them, and sold a bunch of them, but don't have any in stock, and haven't got a mold right now. I'm going to try to have some more cast to sell at NNL East next April. The 1:1 item is a Ford heavy truck scoop, but GM bought a bunch of them and assigned a Pontiac part number to it. They later had to assign a part number to the hole needed to make the scoop functional. About ten years ago, my older brother scoured a couple of heavy truck junkyards in the area, and scared up a couple of them. Before he flipped them on eBay, I borrowed one to measure for creating my original part.

The current Chevy pickup kit is mostly the AMT ex-GMC, with the interior from the MPC Chevy, and new (at the time of the conversion) engine/transmission, front bumper/grille, and rear half of chassis.

The MPC wheels are six-slot Cragars, one of those styles they didn't make very long.

The parts pack wheels are 4 lug.

'63 Impala annual had Halibrand wheels, similar to those in one of the AMT wheel/tire packs. Those are Hands wheels, I believe those were in one or both of the '63 Corvette annual kits.

It does also resemble the rear fenders in early issue AMT '25 Fords. But all of the Sixties issues I'm aware of were molded in black plastic. I'd still lean towards Monogram, especially if the diameter of that fender is really big. The AMT fenders don't fit over their slicks, if I remember right.

That fender looks like the ones in the Monogram first issue Model A Ford kits.