Snake45

Most of those '70s Hasegawa 1/72 airplane boxes were quite nice. But the black-bordered US ones looked more "finished" or refined or something to me than the white-bordered Japanese ones.

And there you have the problem in a nutshell. Some things we just have to live with.

You're right. Some brands and some lines and some colors are worse than others. I find a good scale metallic silver color to be particularly difficult to find. If you airbrush, you might try mixing a metallic paint with a similar solid color. For example, a metallic red with a solid red. The resulting color will still have some "metallic" to it, but not as much.

Only one I can think of is in the AMT '66 Riviera. And even it might have 2x4 carbs, which wouldn't be correct. The dirt-track Skylark still has the remnants of the original kit engine, I think, but I doubt it can be built stock. The relatively common AMT '65 Riv has a stock nailhead (again, 2x4s) with a hole in the block if you're going the way of the original AMT chassis.

You know, I really am. It's a nice break from "serious" modeling to take something that's basically a toy and in just one or two sessions of a couple hours, turn it into an acceptable replica that one's not ashamed to have on one's shelf. I take mine in to work and display them on my shelf there. I would NEVER do that with any of my "good" models.

Ah, NOW I can see it! Congratulations on figuring out how to mount the steering wheel so that a human being might actually possibly be able to sit in the driver's seat. When I build mine, I might steal your idea.

It was the old Aurora kit, right?

Absolutely fabulous! I have one of those WC Choppers lowriders I'm planning to do something with, but had never noticed that the wheel openings are oversized. Thanks for the heads-up!

Maybe try sticking the whole chassis in the freezer for a couple hours? The metal should shrink a little, while the plastic wont. Dunno if it'll work, but worth a try.

That must have been it. Checked again yesterday and they had F&Fs and the "new" MPC kit, but no stock Revell '70s.

Superglue Gel fully cures within about 24 hours. And it keeps getting harder, so you want to work it down after about 24 hours, not longer. You want to work it down to pretty much level with a file, and then finish up with your normal sandpapers backed up by blocks. But the stuff will NEVER shrink, and it's not coming out. The Loctite brand has worked well for me, store brands not so much.

Good use of that wretched old MPC kit. You gotta do something with 'em, so might as well have some fun. Drive on!

Loctite Superglue Gel is great for filling stuff like this. Never shrinks. I've also had good luck with superglue and embossing powder. Did it on a black body recently using black powder and the fill was so clean I was able to get away with polishing the whole body and didn't paint it. Boo-ya!

Born in 1945, which would make her 72 now. The Pantera, coincidentally, was born in 1972, which would make it 45 now. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2015/01/02/hemmings-find-of-the-day-1972-detomaso-pantera-3/

Definitely stock. They weren't modifying them in those days. The car is cool too.

First off, if that's an SS, that's not a flat hood. All SSs had domed hoods (or, later, optional cowl induction). The flat hood of the AMT '67-'68 Z/28s will fit just fine if you shave just a little off each side. I know this for a fact because I've done it.

BTW, just got back from Hobby Lobby where I scored a '70 Cuda in what looks like it could be 1/25 from this same maker, New Ray. $19.95 retail. It's an odd amalgam of AAR and Hemi features, but the size looks right and the body shape is pretty darn close. I can do SOMETHING with it, I'm pretty sure--at least have $20 worth of Snake-Fu fun with it. Pics and a better review as soon as I have a chance to sneak it into the house, past The Lovely Mrs. Snake.

Haven't started it yet, but I don't foresee any problems I can't handle. Biggest stumbling block on my Faux-vette project is I need to find or make a hood for it. No other Vette kit's hood comes close to fitting. I don't have any of the front or rear end parts, either, but I can fake all that stuff.

Thanks for sharing.

Is that a full-detail kit, or the old Monogram curbside that's been around since the '70s or '80s?

Absolutely beautiful! The wing looks like it's on backwards to me--I'm pretty sharp on wings, but not necessarily the wings on dragsters, so I might be wrong about this.

A few weeks ago I started a thread that so far has 451 views and no replies. Not one! Is that a record?

Beat you to that one. But I used the wretched backbirth MPC kit. It's a replica of my old real '69 SS/RS, the only difference being mine was a hardtop with a white painted top. I used Model Master Pontiac Engine Blue for '69 Glacier Blue and it's pretty darn close. I forget what I used for the blue gut but it's also pretty close, and I lived in that blue interior for something like 7 years.

Very nice, and you nailed the look you were going for.

You're planning to paint the body of the car using Testor paint from the bottle, presumably with a brush? You're about to find out, like tens of thousands of us who have walked that trail, that that almost NEVER ends well. Brush paint is fine for details, but for large areas such as a model car body, you want to use spray cans or an airbrush. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, and I don't mean to come across like some sort of model snot, but that's just the way it is.