Mark IV

Trunk on a Thunderbird convertible opens to the rear, that is it is hinged at the rear to allow the top to retract into the trunk. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjpn4DY5fLfAhUjqoMKHY8QAAUQwqsBMAF6BAgBEAc&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2NLwZV6A9i4&usg=AOvVaw2FTlAp2IYQJr6VOJuPfEb_ If you are looking to do replica stock the engine is black with argent silver valve covers and air cleaner unless it has the "dress up" option in which case they will be chrome

Most of the AC fiberglass was an "off-white" color. I mixed this but have now found an "aged flat white" in Model Master that is quite close.

Working on the windscreen mounting. The two little tabs that locate the unit are long since sanded away. The first paint job was ruined when I used some temporary tacking putty to hold the windscreen in place, the putty ate into the paint so a strip and repaint was required. I have now duplicated the black rubber molding that runs under the lower frame piece and am using Tamiya tape to locate the mounting. Still undecided about what to use to secure the frame to the body, slow or fast setting epoxy? Or something else? And also a shot of my solution for paint palettes, glue depositories for when you use a pin to apply, etc. These are Formica samples that you can get at home stores. I have a chain with about 200 that I have been using for years. When they are filled up, toss 'em and break out a new one!

The four "circles" in the middle of the flor pan are the rubber plugs that cover the seat mounting holes. Paint them "rubber" or semi-gloss black. A lot of Mustang modelers miss these.

A third party, out of state, postdated check made out to me!

DING, ,DING, DING we have a winner! 73 Europa Twin Cam special. The pieces are now in Chicago destined to go back together.

And can anyone I.D. the car in the door over the Volvo hood?

Also used some craft store "glass paint" for the turn signals. This is for painting glass to replicate stained glass and when put over plating makes really good amber and red signals.

Ron, Pull it out of the drawer and build it! White with red, Princess Blue with red, or whatever! Here is a Princess Alice Blue with red we recently did for a customer.

Finally got some bench time. I had removed the single, large post Monogram used to locate the bumperettes and replaced with two thin posts as per the real car. I also removed the parting lines on the bumper hoops with a Flexi-File to improve the look. Of course this removed the plating, I could have sent them for plating but instead airbrushed them with Molotow "chrome". This stuff rocks! Wish we had it years ago when I was young and dinosaurs roamed the earth. Compare to the red car. Also did a new set of seats to better replicate the leather. Added some Chart Tape belts with buckles and the leather buckle under pad done with some paint and the aforementioned Molotow. Made a better shifter turning the boot out of sprue and using a piece of wire with a paint glob for the knob. Added a turn signal switch (and yes, on the Cobra they are on the right side of the column!) Installing emblems, I like to use Tamiya clear as it holds well and if smeared can be polished off if it is noticeable at all! Looking for something to use to replace the steering wheel rim as it is about 4 inches thick in scale. Looking at hard "O" rings, etc. to find something of proper thickness and diameter. Open to suggestions?

Cammers were never painted Ford Blue. That color came in 1966 and all the cammers were built prior to that color use. They were painted black and pictures of the crate engines concur with that. And yes, you could buy a either a single 4V or dual 4V version over the counter at your local Ford store. About $6000 if I recall correctly. I have the price sheet somewhere in my "files".

You will need to update the "Bruce" decal to "Caitlyn"! I blew the mind of a current Roush employee who didn't know that Bruce had driven for Roush in the IMSA series.

Al little more progress. Been really busy at "work" (when you sell GT40s, Cobras and Caterhams it's a stretch to call it "work") so not a lot of bench time available. Redid the seats, added the down tubes from the cowl to the front suspension tower and more. Working on the tubes that hold the bumperettes and over riders in lieu of the single, thick post Monogram supplied.

Got these at Harbor Freight free with a coupon. Great for keeping your tools off the bench. But they were out of the aluminum magnets so my Exactos still go in a foam block...……...

The actual color on the 1/43 is closer to the actual color on the car. The lighting makes it "lighter" than reality. Some more progress has been made so additional photos coming.

With a Monogram "Ultimates" 1/43 289 Cobra (I only have 4 more in the box) I am doing my dark blue/red leather car. I have redone the seats since this photo to better replicate the leather. The whitewalls are gel pen, wow! Where these years ago?

Originally the MPC (and then Airfix, eventually AMT) 1/16 Cobra this has pros and cons: Pros: *Only affordable big scale Cobra *Good body proportions, correct shape for an early Comp, "S/C" car. Wrong for a later street roadster *Optional parts * Decent mold quality, emblems, etc. are clear and crisp (at least on my 3 kits which are all 1980's vintage) *Optional "up" top and a tonneau cover *427 "FE" engine is well done and has both the normal 4V carb intake and a Weber system that was never really offered by Shelby but is on several cars today Cons: *Allegedly an "S/C" due to flare shapes, it does not have the oil cooler scoop below the nose opening. You will need to fabricate this *Issues with the chassis/frame. The frame rails are open on the top where very visible from the hood opening *Wheels are both the street car "Sunbursts" which are not used on an S/C. The correct Halibrands are included however they are all front 7.5" wheels so the rears are totally incorrect. All need chrome stripped and to be painted *tail lamps are for CSX 3200 ands up versions, quad round lamps. early cars and S/C cars were rectangular units *Tires are WAY too wide and wrong. They are from an MPC 1/16 "trike" custom bike kit so apparently were in the parts pile *Windshield frame shape is wrong (have yet to see a Cobra bigger than 1/43 with decent frame) *Transmission is incorrect but good for a 1/16 drag car MPC did photograph and measure a genuine car (I have photos of them doing it) so how they ended up with a mix of late street cat and early "S/C" is a good question. Conclusion? Better than nothing, so depending on what you went to end up with a good, but not great start.

Perhaps you need to start buying better drugs! I think Batman would start with a big block, well, just because! And this from a small block owner and aficionado!

The belts do not pass through the seat, they come from the side and are mounted behind the outer edges of the seats.

MFH seems to have "cross pollinated" the 289 FIA with a 427 in some areas. The shift lever is the 427 style, a 289 is straight and does not lean forward as a 427 does as well as being further forward on the tunnel.

That suspension is very heavy-duty for the weight of a Caterham type car. The Chevy it came from weighs at least 3000-3500# and an all up Caterham is less than 1300#! The Chevy control arms would weigh more then the tube frame does!

The Tamiya "King Cobra" is actually the Pete Brock designed De Tomaso P70 group 7 car. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2016/01/15/peter-brock-designed-shelby-de-tomaso-p70-to-appear-at-amelia-island/ https://www.thegentlemanracer.com/2015/11/peter-brocks-shelby-detomaso-p70.html

Here is the alternator brackets used on the Cobras: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/originality-forum/137905-csx2201-later-charging-system-components-4.html The pictures posted in this thread are for Ford passenger cars, the Cobra alternator had to be mounted higher to fit the chassis.