Mark IV

Nice! But note that the "Continental" scripts on the 1/1 are gold colored as well as some of the other trim pieces.

I crewed that McLaren after Oscar sold it to Warren Agor. The plumbing was a mix of rubber, Aeroquip and whatever was handy! Sent Agor out at Watkins for a practice lap and then asked the crew chief (Rich D.) if perhaps Warren would have liked the wing retaining bolts that were lying on the pit wall installed.....lucky the fuel injection was FUBAR and he never got any real speed. We snuck them back in during the commotion and he was never the wiser although we in the crew learned a lesson. And that was also when I learned to NEVER volunteer. The magnesium wheels were really crusty on the outer rims so I said I would polish them up. Nasty, nasty job. Hours of hard labor with no chance of parole!

Very nice! FYI the trunk pan is the off-white/cream fiberglass like the footboxes are.

Like Monogram did on the 1/43rd Cobra. A metal frame done in a hard metal might work.

It would be nice if someone would make a proper scale windshield frame for the AMT/Sunny kits. The kit unit is way too thick and not shaped correctly (squared ends on the top, etc.). A nice metal cast unit that could be polished to chrome appearance and use a cutout acrylic windshield would be a treat! And a PE emblem/handle set would be welcome as well.

El Cid was local here and Hans was a cousin of a friend of mine. El Cid was often street driven to a certain watering hole where "rides" would ensue until the local constabulary would arrive and suggest that fast drag cars and beer were not a real good combination.

All U.S. Fords from 82 on had either grey or black engines. 81/early 82 was the end of "Ford blue" engines. That said, the most common rattle can applied to a Ford was blue so when a previous owner painted them they almost always went to blue....and usually the wrong shade! I had one of the first 84 SVO (charcoal grey with grey cloth) when I was a dealer.

But you didn't replicate the bent oil cooler scoop! (look close at the auction pictures)

I did one of these way back in the day. One of the flaws is that the lower rear body is moulded with the floor pan. I cut it off at the seam underneath and behind the rear wheels and bonded/moulded it to the rear clip. You can still snake the chassis into the rear clip and work it into the front splitter so you lose the nasty horizontal seam that would otherwise be behind the rear wheels.

Lacquer putty also will continue to "shrink" for months so the nice, smooth paint you laid down will have sanding scratches show up down the road. I use USC "Icing" and "Thin Ice" two part polyester puttys and they do not shrink plus they are ready to sand in minutes.

69-70 Boss 302s came with Goodyears only. All Shelbys came with Goodyears.

Ah yes, the Monogram 427 with the wire wheels they never had! Don't know who decided this was a good idea. Some sunbursts would have been nice or even some of the FIA wheels early 427s used, but no, we tool up wires that are poor and were never used!

Having assembled a Hubley wagon while on vacation circa 1963, in the Dearborn Inn no less, with no tools other than a tube of glue and being all of 11 at the time, I can assure you that is likely the finest '60 Ford wagon around. Very nice. You have just taken me back to a road trip to Michigan with my grandparents and a cousin in a 1963 Falcon Squire wagon (one of our dealership demos) that include wonders like the Rouge steel plant and Dearborn Assembly, Greenfield Village and of course The Henry Ford (then known as The Edison Institute and Henry Ford Museum) all amazing to me at that age. And while I have grown older, I have not grown up! Nice job!

FYI, "bullet" Birds are painted body color under the hood area, the inner fenders, etc. should be red. The firewall is covered with black undercoating up to the seam below the cowl. The radiator support is painted semi-gloss black on the front side so as not to show body color through the grille. I also don't understand why AMT included "wide" whitewalls, the 62s had 1" whites. Looks really good! Windshield tint works!

Very nice! I went down to my workbench and stared at my multiple projects underway (if you keep the bench full with incomplete stuff, it hides the fact that I almost NEVER finish anything) and bowed down shouting "We're not worthy!!!" Heck, I fat finger stuff on the full size car! More please Sir...................

AMT. Has been reissued several times.

Yes, it is 2171 that is for sale. Will be replaced with a MK I. We have recently sold several MK Is that are done to early car specs and are working on the Borrani wire wheel option! Let me know what you need, pictures, dimensions, etc. I have access to a couple of FAV cars as well.

No, It is a Superformance as I am a dealer for them. Lee has only built and sold two "continuation" cars as I understand. I will ask him next time I see him what the count is now.

Very nce. Here are some shots of the underside of P2171. If you need any particular photos let me know, I either have them or can shoot them.

There is not much ground clearance from the bottom of the anti-roll bar link to the ground.....when the tub is set to 4.5" the clearance to the lower link is less than 3"!!!! I live in constant fear of speed bumps!

The best GM design of the 60s! the 63 to 65 Rivs were clean, like the 61-63 Lincolns.

Back up the letters with some masking tape before you polish them, it will prevent them from tearing off or bending. I put the tape reinforced fret down on a wood block and the either use the Dremel with a polishing bit and compound or metal polish by hand. The nickel will shine up like chrome because the bright color you see on "chrome" is actually the nickel plating. "Chrome" is used as a thin sealer to prevent the nickel from tarnishing. On a model the tarnish issue is not usually a problem as the exposure to the elements is limited. Be sure to match the level of polish to the rest of the model's brightwork. You can make the PE look so smooth and bright that the rest of the plated plastic will look like dog doo.

How are you doing the uprights and spindles? Castings? Lookin' good.......It looks just like I do it in my dreams!

The Mark I street coupe was about $15,000+ in 1966.....when a nice Caddy was $4500! And the Mark I was finished better than the MK III. Car and Driver was very critical of the finish on the MK III. I know Bill Kolb Jr. who was the "Hi Po" sales guy at the Ford store in NYC who handled the car for for Ford and provided it to C&D for review. Ford had at one point decided to put the GT40 into some version of real "production" and gave FAV a budget to do so. Only days later they pulled the plug on that program and the GTs that were sold for "civilian" use became redundant to the goals of FoMoCo.