MGL

Really nice, these side windows are a real pain to foil, great job!

I like it, nice choice on the colors.

Amazing, I love it. On the weathered one I really like how you ran the white paint down from the lettering on the door. I love listening to some blues while working at the bench, thanks for posting this.

You know how sometimes somebody will post something and they say it was inspired by this thing here, but then what they post looks nothing like the thing that inspired it? This is one of those. Although its a stretch, in my mind the inspiration for this is a combination of Vic Edelbrocks roadster, Fran Hernandez 32 3 window, and those drawings of hot rods that are leaning into the wind. I used mostly parts from the kit along with the left over dropped front suspension and Edelbrock heads and intake from the Monogram 40 ford convertible and the headlights and cheater slicks came from the Mod Rod kit I think. The wheels and other odds and ends came from the parts stash. I lowered the rear and channeled it slightly, wired and plumbed the engine and added throttle linkage. Painted with Tamiya black, duplicolor acrylic lacquer clear, alclad on the wheels, and craft acrylic through the airbrush on the interior. Made new windows from flat clear acrylic. I don't know what year the cheater slicks would be from but that's a 1958 West By God Virginia license plate. Not that it matters because this car would have been completely un-drivable in West Virginia in 1958. For that matter I'm not sure if it would make it up my Dads driveway today. Thanks for looking.

This was my Dads first car, bought for $75.00 in the early '50's when he was about 14. He said he never had legal tags on it but he drove it until he went into the Navy at 17. Painted with craft acrylics mixed as close as I could get to Lyon blue and cleared with testers wet look clear. I made original style spark plug wire looms although the old uninsulated end for the plug still escapes me. I've seen others on here make them I just haven't figured it out yet. I ran a harness on the fire wall so I could wire the voltage regulator, and ran fuel lines. I also added a '52 Maryland license plate and weathered a copy of a page from a dealer brochure for the display case. This kit was a pleasure to build, if you have not tried it I highly encourage you to check it out. The fit and finish was as good as anything out there. While I can't speak to the accuracy of the kit to my eye it looks pretty good. Thanks for looking.

Painted with craft acrylics as an experiment, thinned with just distilled water to about the consistency of milk and cleared with Duplicolor acrylic lacquer. I like these craft acrylics, many colors to choose from and easy to mix up what I want. Thank you for looking, and in Harry's honor I fought those 2 piece side view mirrors instead of pitching them.

That looks like it will work just fine, thanks!

Have any of you added furry sheepskin seat covers to a model? Any suggestions on how to do this? http://www.ebay.com/bhp/sheepskin-seat-cover

I recently read an article about ways to make money online (well, I skimmed an article) and one of the suggestions was to market second party products. Apparently sites like Amazon will pay you to market for them. Maybe you could somehow link reviews of advertisers products to their sites and if we buy their products based on your review you can receive a commission?

Some progress today after a false start. I was attempting to simulate fiberglass with dryer sheets and epoxy and it was way out of scale so I just sprayed the paint from a distance to get a bit of texture to it. I also tried the hairspray chipping technique for the first time and it worked out well. I still need to give it a coat of semi-gloss, paint the screw, and install the windows. I didn't realize I was out of semi-gloss, I guess that means I have to go to the LHS tomorrow.

Traditionally the Chiefs Mess on a boat will get a gift for the Captain to be presented at the Change of Command ceremony. Our first patrol with the current Captain we were the first Coast Guard Cutter to catch 2 Self Propelled Semi Submersible's (SPSS's) in one patrol. I have been working on this for the last few days. I tried to build it similar to the actual construction which uses a sailboat hull and framework built up at the gunwale then fiber-glassed over. A conning tower is built above the cockpit, exhaust, seawater discharge, and air inlets come out aft of the tower and the hatch to the bow is bolted in place. I will let the pictures tell the rest of the story. Here is an SPSS, add 12,000 lbs of cocaine and it would only have about 5 or 6 inches of freeboard. I started out with the Revell North Sea Trawler since it had a single screw and straight bow with a bit of overhang on the stern. I took 3 inches out of the center and rounded the sides. I also made the stern pointed (not shown here). Frame work to support the deck. These are typically built in the jungle. The start of the cockpit. Most of the time they will try to reuse as much as they can from the sailboat they start with. Work on the conning tower with opening hatch. Fitting the tower. The exhaust also gets wrapped in fiberglass, maybe they are trying to mask the heat signature. This is were it is know, I need to rough it up a bit so it looks like fiberglass work that's been done in the jungle. and then paint and weather it.

Thanks for all the great responses, I think I will keep it full length unless the bottom falls below the axle beam. Tim and Dennis, you guys should collaborate on an article about proportions for hot rods, maybe Bill could contribute.

I'm actually an east coast guy stuck on the wrong coast because of my job! You make a good point about sectioned grills in roadsters, I never noticed before but the only time it looks right on a car with a roof is if it has a severe chop and a hood. No chop and no hood looks better with moving the grill down to my eyes.

I'm building a channeled 32 5 window with a Z'ed frame in a sort of modern traditional style (I know, you don't need to point out the contradiction). I'm looking for opinions on what would be more appropriate (not necessarily accurate), sectioning the grill shell or lowering it? I see pictures all over the internet of either approach. I think lowering it between the frame rails may work better with what I'm trying to do but would like to stay true to the spirit of an east coast style hot rod. Thanks in advance.

Nice, I really like the engine.

Thanks for the comments, its much appreciated. These were decals I made from artwork off the internet. Next year I'm going to do the Revell Chevy Van with the Pink Floyd Animals album artwork including the powerplant and I think that's going to be a combination of decals and airbrushing. I was thinking of and asymmetrical mural that starts on the drivers side front and continues around to the front of the passengers side. In looking for information on the engine I found a couple of sites that were helpful including this: http://www.tbirdranch.com/6163concours.html Towards the bottom it gives the factory ride height at each wheel well. I didn't try to correct it or even measure it because I like the slightly nose up look I see in a lot of the cars in some of my dads photos from the late 50's and early 60's Hot Rod scene in D.C. and southern Maryland. I'm not sure if that was a trend elsewhere but I think it adds a bit of character.

Man, I really like this, nice choice on the colors, very cohesive and feels period correct. Great job!

My completed models for 2016. I don't build when I am at sea so I only get about half the year to build. Most of the models I build are pretty close to out of the box with just a little bit of kit bashing and some extra details. Foose 67 Coronet. I moved the spindles up in the front on this, to look right the whole car should be lowered another 2 scale inches or so. 62 Thunderbird 49 Ford, one of my all time favorite cars. 56 Chrysler 300. 66 Barracuda. This is the Motor City Resin Caster kit. The only thing I added was the redline tires (I didn't have any blue stripes) and steel wheels and poverty caps. 69 Barracuda. 68 Dart GTS. 69 F-100. Gremlin X. 29 Model A. Mini. Box Art from the Mod Rod kit. Pink Floyd van. 49 Mercury. Van on the Run. I may get the reissue of the Sunbeam Tiger done still this year but I'm not banking on it. Thanks for looking.

Looks great, I might do one with the stock steel wheels from one of the Moebius Ford pick ups. I have used decal setting solution on homemade decals that where over six months old with no issues although I here there are some decals that will disintegrate. If you have any decals left on the sheet that you don't want to save try it out, if it doesn't disintegrate you should be ok.

Thank you all for the kind words, I am always humbled and amazed by the standards set by the members of this forum.

Thank you all for the kind words.

Bill, in the little bit of research I did I found this article https://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2015/07/28/for-prewar-speed-enthusiasts-the-roof-ohv-conversion-is-tops/ about a Roof OHV conversion that intrigued me. I hope to someday duplicate this including his drip oiling system. I assembled the wheel half's then marked the center point of the spokes on the front and back of the hubs and inside the rims, then worked one set of spokes at a time (front and two corresponding back spokes). I cut three spokes out, smoothed the rim and hub, drilled through the rim and into the hub, and slid beading wire in. Before sliding the wire all the way in I put a small dab of CA glue on the end of the wire going to the hub and than another small dab on the wire still outside the rim then slid it the rest of the way in. I only worked one set of spokes at a time and only worked every third set working my way around the wheel so at any time the hub still had most of the spokes holding it in place. After it was done I trimmed all the ends and filed the inside of the rim into shape. It only took about 45 minutes a wheel while I was watching TV. One thing to remember since the back spokes cross, in order to stay consistent think of them as left and right from the rim side and always cross the same one over the other one.

Looks great, I like the color. Just a tip, if the wheels mount on a plastic stud and you don't care if they roll you can oblong the mounting hole on the front wheel back and glue them on the stud, this would give you the 1/16" or so you need to put them where you want them. That tail light panel really looks sharp with the argent paint.

This is the vintage racer from the Mod Rod reissue. I used the flat head cylinder head instead of the OHV because after extensive research of about 3 minutes it looks like the OHV conversion would have been fairly rare based on the era that this thing would have been built. Also, the exhaust seems all wrong but I do like the way it looks. I'm hoping Bill Engwer or another knowledgeable member can give us some more information on what this might be based on. I added 2 pipes so the center cylinders could breath, throttle linkage, fuel line and filter, plug wires, and laced the wheels and cut the floor out of the fenders so it wouldn't be an empty cavity underneath. The box art: Thanks for looking.

I feel like I saw this in a magazine awhile back and liked it, thanks for posting, the one picture in the magazine left me wanting to see more. Great job on what looks like a fun model to build.