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Everything posted by old-hermit
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Yes I did. Ken. The cotter pins I had on hand were to big to fit in the small diameter plastic rod. I put the cut side down and it's not noticeable. I did a four link on another build using the same method with aluminum tube and was able to use the entire pin.
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Thanks Scott, I'm having fun. Got the suspension mocked up and just about ready for paint I used a pin vice to drill the ends of the tri link rods to accept the 00.90 bolts 00.80 hardware Lindberg rear axle, Big T spring, Golden T tri link bar. Kit bashing at it's finest. heh heh heh. Final mock up. A couple of minor adjustments and she's ready for paint.
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I had to create the reinforcing ribs and sheet metal edges so I cut narrow strips of thin plastruc sheet for the edges and half round for the ribs. I also added the reinforcing ribs to the rear fender well. I added two small brass nuts for the radiator support rods and a couple of coats of filler primer and I have a completed stock firewall.
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PM sent It's not a kit Ian, just a resin body. The builder will have to supply everything else. The motor pictured is one I built from kit & resin parts and some scratch building. .
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Finally smooth. HURRAY !!!!!! Decided on a mostly stock flathead ...
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I'll have to ponder that for the next one Dave. This one I'm going for a 40's era daily driver. PS, needed more putty. I HATE SANDING !!!!!
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I had an old, damaged Deuce frame and some suspension parts so I took what I could find in the parts box and got started. I filled the sides of the frame with putty so it would look more like a Model A frame. Then cut the front & rear frame horns off. I left a lip on the rear to rest the body on ... After a test fit I needed to trim the base of the cowl so the bottom of the body would fit flush I'll be using a Lindberg Banjo rear axle & spring so I had to remove the Revell spring mount I didn't have a rear spring to axle mount so I cut up two radius rods and made some I'll be using a three link system front and rear. The ends of the three link rods were broken off so I drilled holes in the ends and put cotter keys in. I'll use 00.80 bolts to anchor them to the frame. Heres a mock up with an old Pontiac engine just to test fit. The more I think about it, the more a stock flathead would look good.
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Here is the windshield frame and visor that come with the body ... And the radiator & grill shell that are available seperately ...
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I'm leaning more toward an unchopped hiboy with a four banger or maybe stock flathead. I have another one of these bodys coming and it will get the full treatment. Chopped, channeled, Z'd, big blown V8, etc .
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On with the build ... The casting had a few minor dimples so a little spot putty cured that. Since the body came with a flush, flat firewall the first thing was to replicate a stock one. I used a dremel to create a lip for the hood. Then a file to cut the relief in the center. Next I added scrap plastruc to build up the bottom. I cut the bottom out for the undercut then added a piece of 00.60 styreen placed at a bevel. Most of the center of this piece will be removed for the transmission hump. If you channel the body this step can be omitted. Now for bondo and sanding. Have I ever said "I HATE SANDING" !!!!! Stay tuned, more to come ... .
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Thank you for the compliment Casey It will fit, but as with the 1/1. the 32 frame would have to be narrowed a little at the rear so the body will fit over it,
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The Monogram Street T and Golden T have an Edelbrock intake and Holly carb in them. Retro Resin has it in resin ... http://members.fotki.com/sizzler67/about/
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The body comes with a seperate windshield frame and visor and there is a 29 radiator and grill shell available too. The cost to print & cast the fenders is high so there are no plans for them in the near future. If enough interest is shown in what we have now it is a possibility.
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A dream I've had since I first got into big scale has finally come true. Here is the first resin casting of a new 1/8 scale 1929 Tudor Sedan body. It started as a computer 3-D file that was printed and then used as a master to cast more in resin. The "first run" is filled and closed and there will be a second run if there's enough interest and once all the first orders are filled. I know the bosses here don't approve of selling on this board so you can see pics of the process and find more info here ... http://public.fotki....929-ford-tudor/ http://www.facebook....9085230?sk=wall 30 mitutes with a dremmel and it's ready for primer ... Stay tuned as I will use this thread for my buildup of this great new body.
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You have turned a sows ear of a car into a silk purse !!! Definately top shelf build.
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Electric cars ... High cost ... No place conveniant to charge ... A battery that costs more to recycle than it did to produce ... Electrocution of occupants / rescue / fire personel in a collision ... Low resale value ... Horse & buggy ... Low initial cost ... Recharge anywhere with a bale of hay ... Recycles easily into glue & paint brushes ... Automatic collision avoidance system ... Lasts up to 20 years with high resale value ...
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Pocher 1/8 scale Volvo F12 Tractor
old-hermit replied to traditional's topic in Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
All you need are some 1x12's and an empty wall. This is a 4' x 24' wall in my garage. The bottom three rows are all 1/8 scale. -
Pocher 1/8 scale Volvo F12 Tractor
old-hermit replied to traditional's topic in Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
If you have deep enough pockets you can get one ... http://www.ebay.com/...=item4d00914db0 . -
A few detail items, a hastily applied redneck camo paint job, some Doc O'briens Muddy Red weathering powder and she's done. Gotta have a winch ... and yes I know there are no headlight lenses. That last thicket I plowed through took them out a spare tire and some chain ... a roll bar and extra gas ... the other side ...