old-hermit

Any 1928 thru 1940 sedan in 1/8 scale. (two door and four door)

Very nice job Dave. Always have liked your attention to detail. Got any interior & chassis pics ? Edit: duh, never mind, I just looked at your photobucket. Guess I shoulda done that first before replying.

I have an '88 F-350 crew cab and the back seat folds down to a bunk. It's a little short for me but it's ok for a nap.

Do you have room to move the cab & sleeper back on the frame to clear the Allison and maybe just extend the hood ? I don't know how hard it would be but it would be an alternative to hacking up the cab & frame.

Make your own Matthew. http://www.acme.com/licensemaker/licensemaker.cgi?state=South+Carolina&text=HERMIT&plate=1998&r=180942108

WOW!!! Thanks Sergey. That is one perfectly detailed build. Is it yours ? It definately gave me some ideas but I don't think mine will be any where near that good.

The last pic on the right is the one I needed. Thanks for the help guys. I need all I can get.

I started the AMT Cat D8H and want to do some detailing on it. Y'all seem to know a lot more about desiel engines than me, so any help would be appreciated. I searched Google but can't find routing for the six fuel lines from the pump to the head. I know they go up and between the valve cover but where do they go from there ? A good pic would help. Thanks in advance.

Seems like I've been doing something all year but haven't gotten many finished. This has to be my favorite ... 1/8 scale 1929 rat roadster and a couple of others ... 1/8 scale Willys pickup 1/25 Ford pickup 1/25 29 roadster 1/12 Vette 1/25 Pete day cab conversion I did get some masters finished ... 1/8 scale Columbia 2 speed rear end 1/8 scale 1929 coupe body and a 1/8 scale finned 4 banger head. .

Is this one in your back yard too ? If so, how much ????

FYI - the foam rod comes in many sizes and can be used on any hollow tire. I started using it on 1/8 scale builds. It also keeps them from going flat on the shelf over time.

I'm frustrated with the ill fitting tires in the new Revell Snap-tite Pete & KW so I came up with an easy fix. Most of the trailer kits I have come with nice Goodyear tires so with a little adjustment, I swapped them. Trailer tires on left .................. Revell tractor tires on right ... First cut the centers out of the tractor tires on a slight bevel ... Then fill them with 3/8 foam backer rod ... Cut the centers out of the trailer tires flush with the bead and assemble both sets of wheels completly. Then stretch the truck tires onto the trailer wheels with the cut side to the outside ... ... and the trailer tires onto the truck wheels with the cut side to the inside ... ... and you're done ... with good looking tires on your truck and decent tires on your trailer..

It all depends on how anal you are about detail. No offence intended. I borrowed this pic from a ship building forum to prove a point. This is completly scratch built and is 1/96 scale.

About 14 years ago the man I was working for bought a wrecked cab over Freightliner in Bowie Texas. He called me and told me to meet him at the Dallas/Ft Worth airport and we drove on to Bowie. When we got there we removed all the fairings, mirrors, etc, then removed the cab and shoved it all into the front of a 53x102 reefer trailer, then stuffed the rolling chassis in after it. On the way back the diesel bear at the Mississipi scale asked me what was in the trailer. When I told him, he didn't believe me, made me pull around back and went through the trailer with a fine tooth comb. I don't know what he was looking for but I was chuckling the whole time.

Try laying a piece of glass on the mold after pouring your resin. It will force excess resin from the mold and make the back flat. Put some mold release or baby powder on the glass first. PS, nice truck Ryan.

Definately for sleeping Jim. Why go to the expense of a motel room when you can carry your bed with you.

I got the interior finished ... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37856&st=0&gopid=391243&

I removed the back center section of the seat so the driver could have easy access to the sleeper... sleeper bunk ... .

Don't know if this will help but ... http://www.hendrickson-intl.com/products/truck.asp#spring

Thanks for all the help guys. There is a radio shack over in the next town from here so it looks like road trip time.

The entire build is here ... http://public.fotki.com/old-hermits-garage/25th-scale-trucks/359-pete-day-cab/

Five days soaking in three different paint strippers, scrubbed with a coarse bristle brush and this is how it turned out. Think I'm gonna leave it like this, weather the chassis and have a logging truck to go with my stick hauler trailer. Edit: I changed the bottom pic.

Thanks Highway, I'm having fun. Lets just say I couldn't do anything without Tenax !!!!! I just cut it in half right through the gas tank leaving about three eights of an inch on both frame pieces for overlap of the reinforcing strip, then cut the back half of the tank away from the rear frame section to put it back where it was. A little tedious but nothing some filler won't hide.

Just so happens I built a stick hauler trailer this AM ... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37921 Edit ... don't know why but it double posted ?

I got bored waiting for paint to dry on the Hot Shot truck so I filled in my time making a stick hauler. Down here in the southeast we don't use the Peerless style logging trailers but full frame trailers instead. In fact there are some around here that use whatever is available and can be altered into what they want, me included. I had an old Texaco tanker trailer that I started building several years ago that got shelved do to lack of interest. I dug it out, knocked the tank off and built some uprights to hold logs. It's not fancy but will do the job. .