E St. Kruiser50

I've done what Raul suggests here, when I had the same problem your having. Not only did it work great, but I was able to have spare sets for other projects. Good luck - dave

Thanks Chuck You had to go back a ways to dig this out. Surprised me, seeing the Ol' Girl "POP UP" here. Workin' on about a dozen different builds right now, and they're all at near or close to being in the same state of completion. Several are painted now, and several ready for paint, and two more I want to start so badly It's killin'me - MAN THIS HOBBY IS FUN

Lookin great John Are ya going to clear-coat the 'Platinum" before ya shoot the "nail-biten polish"?? Makes a huge difference in the final color/finish. dave

You guy's have no idea how good this model really is . I saw it this week-end in person at the challange, and it was the car my eye's went to first - BEAUTIFUL. I hope maybe we'll see it done at the club meeting this Sunday - dave

Us modeler's can be so creative and "Sneeky"

WOW BEAUTIFUL BUILD CURT. Are those real working struts I see "Lurking" under the hood??? Very, very nice color combo. I would love to see this in person - dave

SCARY if this was a real car. A buddy has an '86 GN that I've driven, and even at 4500#, it's a shear rocket with the turbo charger and inter-cooler. On a real car you'd need wheelie bars to keep the front end down - seriously. This would be a serious street machine if it were a real car.

I'M RETIRED - NO JOB - EHEH

I think fear and paranoia are the biggest detriments to a great paint job and to creativity. To me it's nothing ventured nothing gained. Why be afraid to fail? It's the fastest way to learn. As Bill Geary say's over and over - PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. Get yourself some cleaned up food cans without the labels, and just have fun sprayin' whether it's an airbrush or Rattle-can. Do a coupla dozen with different primers and colors and brands, and experiment with different clears, and just have fun seeing what the results are. Be surprised what you'll learn and how much you'll relax. I did a painting seminar two years ago at a club meeting. I sprayed 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear all in 5 minutes, no 15 minute gaps - and it still came out smooth and "CHINEY" . You shoulda seen the looks on everyones face . The universal response was, "I DIDN'T KNOW IT COULD BE THAT EASY" FORGET THE WORRY THING MY FRIEND IT'S ONLY PLASTIC. Here's a fun little project to show you what I mean. This is a mercedes A160. A friend sold me this kit years ago, and I had a new "APPLE" color I wanted to try out. So yeaterday, after some samples, I SHOT THIS WITH THE ENAMEL GREEN, AND THEN IN ABOUT TEN MINUTES BEGAN CLEAR COATING WITH A "HOT LACQUER" PLASTICOTE CLEAR-COAT, THEN RUBBED IT OUT THIS MORNING. HOT LACQUER over ENAMEL . WORKS EVERY TIME WHEN YA KNOW HOW .

OH YEAH - The limited edition Parnelli Jones addition for me is the ticket. The chrome surround piece, and the black formed panel balance out the chrome grills in the front, give the rear more character and RACY ELEGANCE, and keep the front from looking too heavy. To me, just paint would CHEAPIN the look of the entire car. Way too nice of a car to "Hit with a RATTLE-CAN". On Dec 16th, 1966, I took delivery of a brand new 1967 Fastback 390 Hi-Pro, Bullit green Mustang. It came loaded and had the RARE rear full width cast finned panel, that gave the car a one of a kind look. Classy little details can really make a car stand out.

OK - I'm going to step in it here All these guy's have their own process that works for them, but to me, put way too much work and un-necessary time into finishing, and wait way too long to start the finishings process - just my opinion. BOY AM I IN TROUBLE NOW . The other thing I hear a lot about is OFF-GASSING . To me no such thing that matters a lick. Ask a REAL CAR painter and they'll just give you a blank stare - like what planet did you come from. They're to busy sprayin' and finishin' to worry about it. Yes, I've painted my share of REAL CARS including some nice street rods of mine. TOO MANY PEOPLE SEEM TO BE MAKIN' UP STUFF UP, AND OTHER'S BELIEVIN IT AND REPEATIN' IT. SORRY - again, just my own opinion, and observation, not a critisism of anybody. HERE'S SOME NEW IDEA'S Just like in the the article's you read in BOTH magazines, just like it say's on every spray can (Does anyone read it? I didn't use to - LOL), and like every car painter guy will tell you........ 15 MINUTES APART - INCLUDING THE CLEAR THREE COATS OF COLOR LIGHT MEDIUM HEAVY THREE COATS OF CLEAR LIGHT MEDIUM HEAVY WAIT 12 HOURS RUB IT OUT PREP IS EVERYTHING GUY'S. I NEVER have to sand anything before I rub out the paint, and I NEVER sand anything between coats of paint, because the primer surface is like glass before I shoot my very first coat of paint, and should stay that way pretty much, all through the painting process. This is just everyday stuff for a real-time car painter. Any descent painter will lay down a glass smooth surface, as a matter of coarse, with minimal to no orange peal at all, with minimal to zero buffing needed to finish. This idea of waiting a week after spraying color invites catastrophe when you spray on the clear or more color. I PAINT WET-IN-WET. I NEVER LET THE PAINT DRY UNTIL I'M DONE RUBBING IT OUT. ONCE I'VE STARTED PAINTING, EVEN WITH MULTIPLES OF COLORS AND CLEAR, THE LONGEST I EVER WAIT IS 12 HOURS FOR TAPING AND SPRAYING MULTIPLE COLORS, AND ONE HOUR IN MOST OTHER CASES. REMEMBER - ALL PAINTS HAVE A 12 HOUR - 24 HOUR WINDOW FOR SPRAYING BEFORE YOU HAVE TO SAND THE ENTIRE SURFACE TO RE-SPRAY. URETHANES - 12 HOURS MOST LAQUERS - 24 HOURS No car painter does that, NOT EVEN WITH GRAPHICS and inter-coat clears. When paint dries, it's chemical make up changes, and so becomes less and less compatible, with many of the clears, or even the same color you spray over it a week later. That's why you hear so many people complain about "Alligatoring" - paint attacking itself. For me it's simple - I finish the primer to a glass finish - no more than 2000 grit. For me, anything beyond that in my process is a waist of time and effort. After color and the last coat of clear, I wait 12 hours, and then begin the finishing process with Novus #2 Plastic polish (Paint is plastic). Remember, WHEN THE PAINT (Lacquer or urethane) IS 12 HOURS OLD, IT IS STILL IN A LIQUID STATE, and the rubbing is a method of "SMOOTHING THE PAINT OUT" without removing hardly any material - LIKE ROLLING OUT A PIE CRUST. EVEN WITH SOME ORANGE PEAL, YOU SIMPLY RUB IT SMOOTH WITH NO SANDING . When I'm satisfied with the CLARITY AND SMOOTHNESS from the Novus, I continue the finishing with an automotive paint finishing product called Finesse-it ll Finishing Material by 3M, THAT I GET FROM AN AUTO PAINT STORE. Using this makes the finish "POP" like you wouldn't believe. Then lastly, I wax it with Meguiar's #7 Professional Show Car Glaze, according to the instruction's ( I always read the label LOL). I HAVEN'T SANDED A FINAL FINISH OR ANY PART OF IT IN 10 YEARS - NO KIDDING - NOT EVEN ON THE HOLLYWOOD OR THE RETRO-VETTE. Just one more opinion and process to confuse you , but maybe some of it will RUB OFF Thanks for letting me share - dave

Hey George my friend I'm with Harry and a few others here. I use CLEAR 5 minute epoxy made by PermTex, called PermaPoxy, for doing all my small parts on all the models I build here, as well as taped in windshields. Dries beautifully clear and you can't see it, if your careful, plus it allows a little more time for positioning and adjusting. I've done several die-cast repairs for friends, and it works every time. Good luck - dave

I thought I was the only "Weird Person" who liked these little cars. I have been a "Closet Admirer" for years, and have a couple Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo kits. Guess I can actually show them, now that I'm OK with buildin' them

Hey Marcos Great start on a nice old kit. If it were me, I'd paint this "Puppy" a nice pearl yellow and foil the trim. My 2 cents. Love the plastic color together with your wheel/tire choice. Whatever you decide, it'll be beautiful when you're done - dave

VERY NICE SAVE Beautiful paint color and foil detailing. Chrome bumpers look perfect - I LOVE CHROME .

Hi ZOOT OK, a Bugatti Street Rod just for you

What a fun project . It turned out really nice. That would look good on my shelf .

Hey Dave This is lookin' so KOOOOL. I love the "STRETCHY FRAME" with the extended shocky things attached to the front axle. Hope we get to see it this coming Saturday in Salem - dave .

Yeah, my dad was the same way. A car was just a necessity. I have no idea where my interests came from for cars. He couldn't ever figure me out - LOL Hope ya didn't mind me jokin around with ya, my twisted sense of humor just got the best of me .

I think that fit's all of us - (I like your new avatar)

Great job Alyn Definetly be lookin for more of your work in the future - even without the 22 inchers .

Ebay Challanged Harry, go to eBay and then go to die-cast cars. Type in 1/24 Chrysler Airflow IN THE BOX AT THE TOP, and VOILA - IT SHOULD COME UP. If all else fails Harry, type in this auction #330334846053 in the same upper box. If that fails, send me your email address again and I'll email the link to you.

Either Danbury Mint or Franklin Mint did a 1/24 two door a few years ago and is stunning. Still can find them on eVil-bay once in a while. DeSoto made an Airflow too, with an incredible grill. Harry, I just checked ebay and there is one on there right now with 3 days 18 hours left to bid on with only one bid so far, but it has a reserve on it and these can be hard to find as they were never for sale, just a promotional when you made another purchase. Probably a little spendy, but you'll never find one better.

Great conversion.... but Dang that's a ugly car ( Just kiddin - I couldn't help myself) Is an ugly car though..... (He probably won't ever talk to me again )