swede70

Thanks Ralph for your kind input, It's an odd time in the hobby when 3D printed stuff is coming online that seemingly threatens to carry all previous scratch built and hand cast stuff before it. On one hand I want to create everything and have a reasonably well developed backbone to do such, although on the other hand I almost fear the technical savvy and precision of future 3D printer capability that might render my eyeballed efforts laughably inept. I probably will go for the rear disc setup, conscious throughout that the technology is new and that the surfaces might require greater clean up than what might be afforded us later. Again - my thanks for your feedback. Mike K.

Very nice, very intelligent fabrication work on show. Thanks so much for sharing... Mike K.

I was wondering if anyone had purchased the TDR Innovations rear disc brake kit. No posts were seen in their comment section below the product, although if the transkit was well done such would certainly save me some time. Maybe it was about $29 U.S.? Thanks in advance. Mike K.

Here's hoping you'll find the experience of building this kit a good one. It is interesting that the color brown is making something of a comeback on street cars, with some very appealing tints seen by this writer. The factory shade would have to be looked up, but it too is appealing. Again, have a good experience here and may we all share and compare. Kind regards... Mike K.

Beautiful work so confidently handled again and again. Very much impressed, whereas how fun to notice such a variety of approaches to this most popular topic. Thanks for sharing your expertise and craft. Mike K.

Thanks Ralph for your kind notice. Your multiple 1:12th Camaro projects evidencing all the creative things you've incorporated into them certainly impresses. With respect... Mike K. ...not having any luck finding MM Fabric Black locally and not terribly impressed with Rustoleum's Textured Black, I thought maybe I'd give some actual 'undercoating in a can' a whirl to reproduce a reasoned wheel housing/tub coating. A texture is cast-in to the tool, whereas I suppose I was in no mood to strictly sand out and erase such. ...this affords some idea as to the spray templates I fabricated for the purpose of applying the coating clean, albeit not too clean. The aim was to mask tightly around the leaf spring mounts, while being impressionistic near the subframe rails, etc. ...this would be the front stub frame painted in place (a terrible hassle this and reason alone to cut it off the bottom to meld to another chassis entirely), while note how the undercoating is dusted a bit onto the rails of said stub frame. Other chassis items await adding, hence everything will 'pop' visually a bit more for attachment hardware, the front antiroll bar, as well as the spindles and drag link. The shock bottoms were masked and sprayed - thank goodness for the utility of Tamiya tape. ...understanding that Wally and Gus handled wheel house undercoat duties in April of '69 and that Wally was more or less stoned all the time while he stumbled through his 'work', this would be a 'good enough for production' stab at said undercoat. Perhaps a bit wasteful, know that the exhaust as well as the axle assembly plus leaf springs will be replaced for errors made. I sanded off the exhaust clamp detail (why oh why?) and was too eager to glue the leaf springs in position without first mating them to the chassis. The leaf springs bow out heading towards the back of the car - something I didn't detect. Check your alignment of parts first and avoid my error! ...being situated close to a National Parts Depot warehouse situated in SE Michigan, these would be 1:1 decals to call out the front spring rate as well as shock absorber valving specific to the Z/28 model. The decals aren't shatteringly expensive at maybe $4 each, so something to consider certainly. The images will be shrunk down with a color copier, twisted around a small plastic rod if need be for shape, coated in clear and then set in place. If this was a 1:25th model I doubt I'd bother, but being so large such things can be added. Kind thanks for all who stop by for a look here. Mike K. Short update! Having inadvertently lost the 1:1 suspension decals seen above in combination with troubles encountered with my 1:1 daily driver, it seems I lost momentum which I hope to regain for repurchasing another set of said decals, etc. More to come then... M.K.

...a fast update then... ...plugged area atop the fuel tank is seen awaiting putty application. ...reinforcement of the inset panel as seen from above. ...the same addition now puttied in. ...hardware removed from the front stub frame. ...hardware removed from rear subframe. ...initial chassis paint with semigloss black paint applied to the trans. tunnel both forward and back, Tamiya Fine Gray primer from the sides and inward, and finally, some MM Daytona Yellow from the outside in. ...front stub frame paintwork to come as well as wheel arch paint - most likely MM Fabric Black for what texture is on offer. - ...revised front spoiler profile with sharper ends and slight trimming to the base. Much better I do think. Thanks for skimming this update... Mike K.

...more work, with some obvious refashioning of what at first seemed good: ...the spiral shock detail not quite well-defined enough to use front shock bodies is seen redone here. The one on the top of the rod depicts what will be visible, whereas know the bottom one is upside down. A tiny section of machined stock as per the R/C part I using should be visible, hence it ought to all come together. ...the upper shock mounts through the front stub frame have been scrubbed off in anticipation of scratch building bushings and reapplying hardware that is both shorter and better aligned for being situated straight up versus on an angle. In short, I dislike brush painting what can be rendered as individual parts... ...efforts to open up the drains on the front stub frame and rear subframe plus the usual floor pan body dip drains is noticed. The hardware for the former will be scrubbed off and added independently, mostly to facilitate mindless paint work. The plugs for the floors will be done as separate pieces, whereas I might be able to add a bit of visible seam sealer to make them look right. Being so large, such detail work is invited even if such doesn't strictly come to mind on work of a smaller scale. Also note that the seam in the middle of the casting heading from front to back has been lightly scrubbed away. Such is easy to overlook and should be seen to before applying paint. ...expecting to do the topside of the fuel tank much like a metal briefcase with contour tucking in along the perimeter, I opted to remove the tank detail outright in anticipation of plugging the resultant gap. Mounting straps may or may not be scratch built, but at least this effort frees me from the most tedious masking that would otherwise be required. Also up might be the addition of the metal work 'melted cheese' edge detail seen on the 1:1 fuel tank corners nearest the rear axle in particular. In sum, I'm effectively pushing the total parts count up on this model to comfortably finish it as I wish. Thanks for skimming this most recent update... Mike K.

Greetings, As to impressions, mostly you'll view the kit as not really more elaborate than some 1:25th kit blown up to 1:12th for the parts count and assembly breakdowns are nothing epic. This is a very basic kit in this regard, hence some things aren't going to suddenly be dripping with detail given huge care was exercised to split this and that assembly into more component parts. Expect to be very impressed with the body which is very well rendered. Expect also to be terribly underwhelmed in relation to the wheels and tires which seem to be stop gap items designed around recycled 1967 Corvette vanilla wafer tires. I'm trying to come up with better on my build, although other build threads clearly depict that skilled builders aren't necessarily hobbled by this felt deficiency for their builds look quite nice. The headers and exhaust do require quite a bit of cleanup, so expect a time drain there, although know that the overall quality of the tool is high and absolutely merits enthusiasm registered here by various builders again and again. Know too that in addition to the photo etch set that aftermarket decals exist to afford multiple tries in relation to the over the top stripes if such is a worry for you. For myself I think I'll need to purchase another to facilitate some interior paintwork and chrome plate. I will likely have to budget for re-chroming too given that many plated parts sadly sport many plastic injection feed points and look a bit tatty if not properly trimmed, sanded and touched-in with chrome paint. None of the above should dissuade you from a potential purchase, whereas time and again you will likely be tempted to try things that are new to you given the topic is so big. For many I suspect the overall size and basic quality of the tool restores their enthusiasm for the hobby, and this is definitely a plus. Good luck... Mike K. P.S. Inaccuracies seem to be few - i.e. no fresh air seal beneath the hood is provided, the hood hinges are a bore, the inner fender lip as viewed beneath the hood is inexpertly and cheaply rendered, while the sink mark in the center of the Rally wheel trim caps isn't exactly something to cheer. Modest irregularities are noticed on the design of the headers they created, whereas the hardware on the mounting flanges isn't the best for it is either incomplete or inaccurately sited. Expect no front spring detail of note, whereas most everything short of the master cylinder and booster chamber on the firewall is simply cast-in. Interior is the custom trim level, although the cast-in bead detail is slight along the perimeter of each cushion and might be better replaced with wire. Know that the earlier orange release from '88 doesn't have the woodgrain dashboard decals, whereas the later rerelease does. Depending on your ambitions, this might be an issue for you. Kind regards... M.K.

Thanks for the kind comments... Returning I suppose to the rear suspension which I judged not quite adequate and hence worthy of another attempt. Please see below: ...rather than create the leaf spring clamps/clips with four sections of plastic stock, I opted to heat up some thin rectangular stock in a glass of hot water to bend clips anew. A small gap can be seen on the sides allowing for some movement as per stock, whereas note this is a view from the top that won't be strictly seen when all is assembled. ...while this would be the view from the bottom. Very likely a bit large in sum, although I think I'll just go with it and move on to other aspects of this project whilst recording within my memory that the same work could have been done with a bit less visible bulk if my meaning is understood by the reader. ...well nigh invisible before, here is seen my effort to straighten out the ends of all but the center top leaf spring. Not terrible this... ...a puck of material has been added to the nose of the differential as per photo reference. Basically just a slice o' plastic tube, the addition also firms up the positioning of the driveshaft and is revealed to be no bad thing. ...cover hardware touched in with Testor's Jet Exhaust versus the usual silver or steel. The Jet Exhaust shade seems closer to Gray Chromate versus other options tried to date, hence all for the good. ...assembled with shocks and shackles. The isolator pads beneath the spring perches have been painted on again, whereas the small dots in the center of the perches are reduced in size for putty work, etc. ...now matched if you will to the exhaust. I still need a new exhaust system casting to start anew for clumsy efforts to revise the clamps cast-in, although most of what's here looks the business... ...seemingly a nasty shot, this would be Krylon Satin Black used on the front spoiler. It looks like the plastic 1:1 original, whereas backing off a bit and applying the coating from a distance resulted in a fine pebbled surface texture that for now appeals. Thanks for skimming this most recent update... Mike K.

Greetings... Noticing more than a few personal errors committed across both the exhaust system as well as for my finish choices, I've decided to redo the axle assembly as well as the exhaust. The as-delivered guillotine-style exhaust clamps were correct, whereas I inadvertently sanded this detail off. Further, much more work was and is required on the leaf springs and axle before I'll be satisfied with matters. For discreet sanding five leaves are seen versus four, locating tabs to prevent leaf spring side slippage have been added, whereas the ends of four of the five leaves have been squared off even if this detail can't strictly be made out from the photo image provided. ...the clamps on the leaves weren't quite where they needed to be, while only two were provided versus three (per side) that are required. The clamps proper are yet to be added, although the welded-in locating points are seen above. Other things are soon to be added... ...albeit bereft clips, this would approximate the finish choices made on the exhaust. The chambered system on the Camaro was aluminized from front to back, whereas Krylon Chrome in an aerosol can was applied from a slight distance to add a bit of texture to the surface finish. A bit 'soft' like Testor's Metal Master range, the Krylon product proved necessary to seal coat it with MM clear before the assembly could be safely handled. MM Stainless Steel was employed to do what will eventually be clamp detail. I might be tempted to spray some Tamiya Translucent Blue on the exhaust to add a bit of further dimension, observing care if you will to mix up the application of such to differentiate between the separate elements the system is made up of. In short, I want to suggest that the finish so-applied suggests different parts mated to each other rather than one continuous pipe per bank painted in one go. ...nothing shattering here, but MM (Model Master then) Jet Exhaust in a bottle was applied to each exhaust tip recess followed by a tiny drop of black further in. It seems to look better than the standard 'pool o'black', although given the difficulties of setting up the cross ram carburetors, perhaps evidence of a chalky full-rich setting would be better? ...and a better driveshaft shade was found, this being MM Titanium in an aerosol can. Two further dustings of differing shades of brown were used to add a bit of discreet rust detail to the surface of such, whereas the orange and white bands are assembly line details arrived at for the study of a '1969 Camaro driveshaft markings' thread on the Camaro Research Group. The drive yoke requires some further marks, while the i.d. bands were painted very lightly as per design. Moving ahead slowly then. Thanks for reviewing this thread. Mike K.

Indeed - developing well. Thanks for sharing your efforts with us... Mike K.

A very beautiful and lithe topic expertly handled. Thanks so much for sharing it. Mike K.

Very fun and interesting topic here. The mock ups look very convincing and bring back faint memories of what I feared would be the last Chrysler Corp. NASCAR racers. The roll cage fit appears perfect too. Thanks for sharing... Mike K.

Very nice, very confident and assured work underway. Don't forget that all important Thrush woodpecker decal! Mike K.

...more stuff then, ...believing that utterly clean valvecovers on something like this is akin to an anomaly, some used crankcase oil was dripped onto the fins nearest the breather/PVC opening atop each. Without direct illumination nothing is strictly seen, although adding such does add a bit of dimension to the work. A slight dusting of rust beneath the master cylinder was further added, although this too is largely invisible. ...revised exhaust system less paint. I noticed that the chambered exhaust (as well as other period systems) did not feature a balance pipe between the two banks. Having removed such, I inadvertently damaged a guillotine clamp for clumsy sanding. Since the guillotine-style is incorrect on this topic, for some concerted application off they came. Some material was left to help flesh out the correct style exhaust clamp detail, hence more to do here besides applying something akin to an aluminized finish from front to back. ...believing it possible to make some reasoned changes to the existing headers short of starting from scratch, this would be the revised passenger's side fitment less flange detail. What was unnecessarily bendy is now straight... ...whereas this would be the driver's side. They obviously aren't 100% spot-on for each tube being routed to the proper position into the four-into-one collector provided, but all the same they're better. It is my understanding that Bill Thomas as well as Kustom Headers both supplied Chevrolet with tube headers as an 'in the trunk' option for the '67-'68 Camaro Z/28. Research suggests that Bill Thomas headers were a light silvery blue, whereas the Kustom Headers were painted semi-gloss black. In '69 the headers were available over the counter, whereas I think I'll end up painting these the Kustom Header shade. The collectors look a wee bit short, hence I hope add a puck of material to each to lengthen matters out. Thanks for examining this update. Mike K.

Greetings, More active on other boards but nevertheless interested in networking, I thought I'd create a tiny thread here to express greetings to those looking in. I'm an avid fan of the old '66-'72 SCCA Trans-American Sedan Championship in the O2 category, while I modify models (mostly diecast although I have some plastic kits) to obtain what I desire in scale. Pleased to exchange insights and notes so-themed. What is seen below is a 1:18th Sun Star '64 Pontiac GTO-based Bob Tullius/Herb Adams Gray Ghost project that I hope to pick up on after completing a 1:12th '69 Camaro build. Thanks and kind regards... Mike K. M.K.

Welcome Kevin, Hoping you will find connection and validation here. Mike K.

Just a brief update, ...this would be my 1:12th Camaro taking shape. MM Titanium in a rattle can was used on the sketchy hood hinges, while the hood striker plate will likely need something different yet. Notice I'm playing around with air filter colors, trying here to approximate a dried out and long neglected low mileage original. Thanks... Mike K.

A small update this..., ...the front suspension pseudo-springs (actually just locating pegs) have been cut off and ground even, whereas the cut down R/C equipment springs and perches have been loosely sited in the wake of rudimentary paintwork applied to each. ...inside both assemblies a two-part shock absorber body has been sited with a thicker top half and an indented 'swirl' etched into the bottom half to match the exterior shock detail provided on the rear shock absorbers. Tags to call out the spring rates have yet to be purchased, although I hope to reduce each and add these to what is seen here. ...hardly breathtaking, but discreet spring isolator pads have been painted in between the leaf springs and spring perches. The dots seen directly below the mounts are a somewhat oversized and stand to be changed out. ...some refinishing of basic assemblies is detectable here. The wheel housing liners have been painted Krylon Semi-Flat Black which seems a bit less reflective, the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir top is now a bright gold cad. versus silver as before, whereas I've started to play around with air cleaner tones to suggest a well-worn as-discovered original versus a poppy 98+ point restoration. The air cleaner was first painted Testor's Light Ivory, and then coated lightly with Tamiya Translucent Orange. The effect seems a bit heavy in-camera, although know it is appears less 'in your face' when examined in person. Finally, the hood latch striker plate as well as the hood hinges (a bit dumpily rendered these) have been repainted too in the hopes of suggesting gray chromate, or what is known as palmerizing. Thanks for skimming this update. Mike K.

Thanks for the input - I'm heading to the nearby hobby shop to check out same. Mike K.

Thanks for the interest and kind responses, Indeed, there are different shades out there - and sometimes on the same topic given different suppliers contributed this assembly and that! Playing around with what I had in hand, for this GM topic it seems Testor's Metal Master Titanium sprayed from a distance followed up with Tamiya Flat Clear will likely be the way to go. I do have some MM as well as Tamiya Gunmetal, hence I will apply myself to experimenting given how very nice the 'Quick GMC's' Super Stock Hemi appears. The parts intended to be finished indeed include a hood latch striker plate and the hood hinge assemblies as rudimentary as they are on the 1:12th Camaro kit. Another thing I'm finding out is that there is no shortage of so-so quality restorations where much work bears little relation to what originally came down the line. I suppose too that I'm unduly influenced by copious study of Hemming's Muscle Machines and the like, and hence carry in standards that I couldn't hope to afford in 1:1. Well and by golly - it's MY (scale) Camaro! - ...this would be a '68 with a later '69 cross ram seal and presumed fiberglass ZL2 'Super Scoop' cowl induction hood. A bit confusing to look at, a nice restoration surely, while the image was chosen to reveal the hood latch striker plate (if my nomenclature is correct) finish. Reviewing this, I notice that the hood hinges look nice in MM Titanium, although my striker plate isn't quite happy painted identically... ...this would be a '69 with the same system, plus '69 valve covers and such. Best view of the hood hinges, although my guess is that 'his' wheel shroud black is a bit too glossy, whereas that gold cad. power brake booster chamber is blinding! It's so challenging to see to everything even as I'm not doing much more than paint. I suspect this is the Lingenfelter Collection '69 Z/28 in Olympic Gold - a lovely shade this. - I have a first generation Camaro restoration house that is situated close to where I'm based that sells some simulation of gray phosphate in a rattle can, although at $28.95 I'd hope that a lifetime supply was found within. I think I'm good, although I will attempt to shop for a well illuminated image to plug into this thread consistent with affording those looking in of that which I speak (sorry not to do this first thing). I suppose in time I ought to dive into the Alclad range and 'mix my own' so to speak, although at present I really need to tidy up and complete consistent with building my confidence back up. - If it helps, I've tried to scribble down a few other rattle can 'point and squirt' standards that seem to work without huge effort, whereas feedback as to better options or techniques is of course most welcome. 30 degree chassis black: Krylon Semi-Flat black or Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel Multipurpose Coating Semigloss Black DA 1603 60 degree engine accessory black: Currently using Tamiya Semigloss Black TS-29. It still seems a bit too glossy, hence feedback and/or impressions sought. Old Koni shock absorber Orange/Red: (material to be inserted soon) Newer Koni shock absorber Orange/Red: (material to be inserted soon) Thanks for examining this post and thread... Mike K.

Greetings, Working on a 1:12th scale Revellogram '69 Camaro, I realize that my choice of paint for Gray (or rather gray-colored) Zinc Phosphate isn't exactly stellar. Most material online steers me towards 1:1 restoration hardware refinishing in the proper coating, or obliquely refers me to Eastwood's product range. Does someone have a favorite paint in a rattle can that reliably does the job again and again? For the Camaro, imagine the finish seen on the hood latch striker plate or the hood hinges themselves. Any help would be most appreciated. I'd also be happy to trade chassis finish recipes as I too have some favorites. Thanks for reading this post. Mike K.

Thanks for the continued interest and encouragement, More then...: ...information obtained via The Camaro Research Group exhaust header thread indicated that no flange detail is strictly seen between the exhaust headers (an over-the-counter option on '69 Z/28's) and the exhaust system proper; i.e. everything was welded together as per instructions scanned and viewed on the CRG. Given this, I ground off the flanges and extended the pipes forward a bit anticipating that I'll have to cut them back at some point. ...the same assembly painted, less guillotine clamp paint (or possible replacement given they are the wrong thing fitted to the chambered exhaust). The actual chambered exhaust pipe clamps are simpler affairs, hence it would be good to change them out. Barely visible is a small application of glue to suggest a weld (X2 then) between the equalization pipe and the two exhaust pipes looking back. ...front shock absorber top mounting detail done in miniature brass hardware. The threads are coated with Tamiya Translucent Red less the threads beneath be wholly obscured, whereas the top is touched in with Testor's Dark Red enamel. Barely visible beneath the upper control arms this detail is, while know I'm shopping for larger hardware to effectively suggest that the upper arms are also so-secured. ...the rear shocks with painted miniature brass hardware, with painted bushing detail largely obscured. I hope to add shrunken two letter labels to denote to assembly line personnel which code (equating to stiffness) to fit to which Camaro passing by. Such decals/labels can be had by 1:1 restoration houses for about $5 each. ...some miniature brass hardware sorted for use on the rear leaf spring shackles. ...the same in place and largely happy. ...for visiting a pair of R/C shops, smaller coil over units were found to substitute into the front suspension assembly. In the foreground may be seen the unaltered R/C unit, whereas back of it looking to the right of the lower control arm may be seen a cut down unit, and finally to the far right, another cut down unit which has had some coils removed to better simulate what would be fitted as per stock. I hope to paint the coils gray, add coil spring rate tags as per stock, and possibly introduce some material over the metal center rod carved to reproduce the spiral shock detail. Thanks for examining this post and for the nice feedback left. Mike K.

Greetings, Thanks for your interest and offer. I have Wayne Guinn's Camaro: Untold Secrets 1967-1969 and have been quietly purchasing materials since April of this year in the form of textual materials to compliment this project. The Guinn title seems definitive with regards to the special Trans Am homologation pieces, but new discoveries or stuff previously overlooked is always welcome. Just a few weeks ago I gathered an old Automotive Quarterly title identified as Camaro: From Challenger to Champion which dates back to 1981, and very fine it is. I did attend the Ypsilanti, MI. Camaro show this year (my first time then), although most cars spied constituted older restorations. Happily I'm near a National Parts Depot warehouse, something called the Lingenfelter Collection isn't far away, whereas a specialist known as Heartbeat City is fairly close to me situated as it is in Shelby Township. Heartbeat City has a good website in particular, hence contemplate trying: Heartbeat City JL-8 4 wheel disc brake subpage Also very much worth visiting is something called the Camaro Research Group where I've maintained a rambling build thread across many a (incomplete) project - usually SCCA Trans-Am related in some fashion. Follow the link to my thread there, but by all means search around for there's so much to examine there. You'll quickly pick up on my habit of jumping from one project to the next, although the subassemblies and half-finished works are always good for passing a few minutes. See: Mike K's mostly 1:18th Vintage SCCA Trans Am build thread on CRG CRG has a few threads documenting 'as found' low mileage Camaros discovered as of late, hence I'm trying to honor what has been recorded and related here and there. Individual cross ram items sold via eBay with pertinent photos provided as also been a lifesaver. Kind thanks and yes - I'm always on the search for more and better stuff. Mike K.