swede70

Thanks everyone for the valued input. Replies with photographs was much more than I expected. Sorry to sow confusion if I did, surely I have enough information to work with and act on. Again, my thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Sorry if this question seems a bit vain. I'm not well versed in relation to the current crop of kits to the extent of being able to readily identify where to source the best parts for this and that, hence I'm tapping the collective consciousness here to that end. I'm working up a 1:25th Scale Coachworks '64/'71-season SCCA Trans Am 'Gray Ghost' combining the resin shell based on the old AMT annual tool with what I vaguely remember as an Oldsmobile 442 chassis with whatever engine I've cobbled up. I think I've employed the Lindberg kit for the dash and interior panel work. Contrasted to other Scale Coachworks builds of this topic seen online, know that I've filed off much of the flares to the extent of raising and reshaping each wheel arch. The material is there aplenty - it just needs to be removed some... Back when this was a current project for me, I remember being disaffected with the molded-in exterior door handles, hence I scrubbed them completely from the body shell and need to replace them with something suitable. My question to those who know their contemporary tools is WHAT might be best? I'm thinking of a part or assembly that is attached separately, and that would allow a tiny 1:25th hand to grab the handle given it would be cut clear through. Again, sorry to be uninformed and a bit vain. If it helps anyone working up the same topic, I've included a paint recommendation for the late-season rims, interior and chassis - all of $3.96 - whoopee! Thanks to the community... Extra and exciting BONUS question! Are the pad-printed GOODYEAR Blue Streak Stock Car Specials in the '71 Bobby Allison Monte Carlo rerelease (maybe it's a '72?) worth grabbing? I'm thinking of employing them here. Kind thanks... Mike K./Swede70 Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, A host of small changes made on the 1:18th Gurney 'Cuda helps matters greatly. Seen are new Patto's Place numerals moved about to suggest a late-season appearance, as well as accessory decals removed and replaced or overlaid with images a bit better registered or appropriately colored. Happily I am report that the ACME decal work came off easily for simply scratching relevant images off with only the use of a fingernail. Usually nail polish remover sans artificial coloring and cotton swabs in excess is the way to go here, but in this instance no measurable damage was done to the underlying surface for chipping off this image or that. Notice that the hood-situated #48 is positioned further forward, while the door numerals are now further apart. The PP sheet didn't include driver identification for atop the door numerals, hence now-rare Fred Cady waterslide images were employed from his Trans Am-themed 1:25th sheets of old. The driver identification decals have been positioned well forward reflecting again a late-season spec. The Champion Spark Plugs, STP, BELL Helmets and Union 76 accessory decals are 1:25th waterslide images doing extra duty here in 1:18th land. Also added has been a scratch built five-panel Wink interior rear view mirror, while mounts for the narrowed front spoiler have been fabricated so that the original ACME rendered version may be left off. The exhaust dumps have been redone in brass tubing as well. Last week I ordered an ACME '70 Autodynamics Challenger which I anticipate modifying in a like manner. Thanks...

Very beautiful - especially the Studebaker. Thanks for sharing... Mike K.

A small further update this...: Missing on the ACME release is any duct work guiding scale air to scale radiators just aft of the front valence. Although very tedious to do from scratch seen below is something that serves the purpose. Additionally, separate dams were fashioned to direct air alternately to the oil cooler as well as the aforementioned radiator matrix. The cut outs seen accommodate the grille which tucks in close, whereas the rearmost ends of the assembly rest solidly upon the radiator support. Done right, no glue is required to hold the assembly in place. The fuzzy photo image shows the mock up, although contrasting this to the painted and installed image, know I'll have to repaint it aluminum to match the reference image seen in the previous post seen above. ...the mock up positioned inside the valence on what I'll call an engineering hack of sorts... ...and set in place, although begging if you will to be repainted aluminum given it shows up well when one examines the Riverside Mission Bell 250 image I've pasted in within the space of my previous submission. Thanks... Mike K.

Kind thanks for the reply and Happy Holidays to everyone... Although worried that I'd wreck an otherwise nice feature of the ACME model in the form of the 'machined lip' Minilite wheels, for the last two races of the 1970 Trans Am season all-white wheel were phased in. Consistent with this knowledge, I opted to repaint my wheels with Tamiya Matt White. Do as I say and not as I do should you go this route; i.e. heat the wheels and tires in very warm water to ensure that the wheels won't scuff the tires - albeit I acted in haste and did everything 'cold'. Nevertheless, the wheel finish is virtually indistinguishable from the stock ACME issue, is resilient enough not to rub off onto the tires proper, and in total is very much in keeping with the late season look. I will at some point add small strips of sheet plastic with tiny lengths of silver duct tape to do wheel weights to lend a further bit of visual interest here. As for the revised wheels, see below: ...now mounted on the model, combined with lower ride height front and rear and still further revised exhaust dump detail, see below: ...given I want to replicate the Riverside D.G. retirement ride per se, it is important to replace the ACME front spoiler with a scratch built model of smaller dimension, paint the same matt black, and add the necessary Dzus fasteners (four then). Here would be D. Gurney pursued by Swede Savage and Mark Donohue at Riverside bearing a damaged spoiler evidencing the otherwise absent fasteners: ...constructed out of sheet plastic, painted and overlaid onto the standard ACME air dam just for reference purposes at this time, here sits the new air dam. A Fred Cady 1:25th '70 Trans Am AAR 'Cuda waterslide sheet was used for the 'Plymouth' decal which would actually be the fender top decal resited and reemployed here as a 1:18th spoiler decal. Do not use clear atop the Fred Cady decal for the decal will effectively dissolve; i.e. I had to do this twice over. Dzus fasteners are 1:25th photoetched items held in place with Tamiya clear lacquer with the individual fasteners positioned with the use of a toothpick with a bit of petroleum jelly/lip balm dabbed on the end. I suppose they could be larger, but who knows where to source 1:18th Dzus fasteners?: ...as noted above, the installation seen is temporary. I'll use a spare front valence which I'll paint and build spoiler mounts upon to ensure that I can simply switch out new for old without harming the stock ACME assembly. This way the modification will be guilt-free with the original serving as a spare to slip onto a different car if need be. Whoops! - seems that the inside Dzus fasteners were sited a bit low relative to my reference photo. I'll have to redo things, but doing such isn't a killer if you will. Kind thanks for your reviewing this update... Mike K.

Greetings, After many months of waiting the 1:18th ACME Hwy. 61 tool-based Dan Gurney race AAR 'Cuda has arrived, and hence I can calmly go about the business of choosing the best bits and pieces to work up the best E-body road racing replicas I might. The ACME model is mostly an agreeable compromise given they had to work with a stock bodyshell and chassis casting, while sometimes it's good to take on a limited project where one is simply introducing mild revisions of this and that versus scratch building so very much. Below will be seen a few images of a revised Gurney release with encouragement of you to try the same. Alterations of note are as follows: Larger headlamp fill panels have been fabricated from sheet plastic and painted Tamiya TS-49 Bright Red to better replicate the appearance of Gurney's return to driving duty at Kent and Riverside '70. The tail panel has been replaced with a painted example less dayglo stripes - see my 'dry' paint fixture work up for the purpose. A slightly larger fuel fill pipe as well as a larger Hwy. 61 '70 340 Dart fuel cap was added at this time as well. Tamiya TS-55 Dark Blue dusted with TS-65 Pearl Clear works really well here. The 'PLYMOUTH' identification in the grille has been painted out. Correct for some races, but not for Kent or Riverside then... The jack point highlight on the rocker panels has been removed and replaced with red R/C vinyl tape which was a bit taller and happily vibrant in color. The door handles have received a Testor's Model Master magnesium wash versus the as-delivered black wash. The exhaust dumps have been trimmed, the ends worked over with a Dremel Moto-tool to appear oval and a bit dipped, and finally painted flat black. The A-pillar air duct hardware has been touched in with silver paint. A cast resin fuel cell housing has been added underneath and back. The 'DAN GURNEY' identification above the side numerals has been removed and shifted forward for use of old Fred Cady waterslides which seemed about the same size. Specific to the Riverside Mission Bell 250 appearance, a BELL helmets decal has been added to either side atop the 'stack' of accessory decals seen on the rear quarter panel well forward. A useless cast-in turn signal indicator stalk was cut off and discarded. Missing the stock front turn signal lenses typically inset into the grille on the standard Hwy. 61 'Cuda releases, a pair of the lenses were found and painted semigloss black to represent fill panels prior to being fitted. ...the aforementioned tail panel masking fixture. The lock cylinder has been mostly ground away, although I was reluctant to try to finish it smooth for fear of wrecking the whole assembly for being too greedy. I wish I'd primed the license plate recess fill panel before spraying, but otherwise a reasonably sound approach to take. Clay was used to prevent paint bleed through to the lenses left in place along the back side of what is seen... ...painted, although coverage not the best around the edges of the insert. Oh well... ...with the strange upturned exhaust dumps still unmodified here, nevertheless the fuel cell housing looks quite good hanging down just so. Tamiya AS-16 Light Gray (USAF) isn't a perfect match but will have to do... ...with most everything articulated above in place. Note the rocker 'flashes', the cut exhaust tips, and the headlamp fill panels as described. ...the view from the back, with the body-color tail panel in place and the small BELL helmets decal add shown to good effect. More little things to come, while hopefully the other E-body projects can pick up steam for the availability of scattered new tool stuff. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K.

A small update then... This would be the second shell returned from the media blaster and outfitted with the thinned flares seen above. The dimensions between the flares and the body shell cutouts up front are a bit tighter, while the rocker panel inserts stand to be blended in with greater care soon. Thanks... Mike K. M.K.

I'll do my best to disregard the teasing tone of the message left above. At some point people post so many messages that they claim ownership of the whole experience of the board, and I suppose if I don't adjust my presentation to suit whatever might be their expectations and standards, then I'm a target. Complaint lodged, complaint ignored. Mike K.

Looks wonderful - I had a '74 2002 and am greatly enamored with your build. Hope the 'carpet monster' yields up that which she has taken... Mike K.

Greetings and thanks for the kind feedback... Although unpleasantly laborious, a new shell with new flares has largely been worked up - kind thanks to ibj40/Jim F. for all the valued assistance and support (i.e. I'm still using up what I have!). Other modest things to report as well: ...this would be an attempt at door roundels w/black outline border plus door driver identification (Ariel font, 14 size if I accurately recall). Believe or not, I just used a black Sharpie pen and a stencil set to get the outline, although it's best to carefully seal such with the decal bonder in a can as illustrated; i.e. apply the stuff too heavily and the marker runs. I haven't determined how to best cut the images out cleanly, whereas I'm thinking of applying different varieties of Tamiya white to insure that the resulting roundels are as vibrant as they can be prior to application onto the work much like any other waterslide decal. ...this would be the stuff of my flares in a particularly raw state. Some time ago I began upon a 1:18th scale Hwy. 61-based 1970 Autodynamics Trans Am Dodge Challenger, and had the foresight to copy what I'd worked up for the use of urethane molds to backstop my efforts. The copies seen above look a bit pudgy, although I've found it easier to remove material to arrive at a proper shape versus adding material later and struggling thus. ...much thinned here, and quite substantially recontoured and reshaped. If only the movement of your mouse reflected how much time was spent to proceed from point A to point B! ...ignore the '68 Daytona 24HR image for the front flares aren't really in the final configuration! Here is seen the heavily reworked front flares in position within filed cutouts on the body proper. Note how the fender opening contour blends easily into the flares both towards the front and terminating towards the end of flare as it blends back into the fender. And yes, the front valence has been cut out entirely - a nasty business given I did this by hand with a simple razor saw over two days. Lastly, the clumsily rendered B-pillars and associated cast-in weather sealing have been filed off complete, faintly noticeable for the clean finish of the surfaces just below the roof edges as seen here. ...the flares in place with white craft glue only. Seeking a risk-free paint test platform, the reader will notice the otherwise odd hood black out treatment as well as the stripework witnessed across the top of the vehicle. The normal rice paper Tamiya masking tape is great stuff, although I have reservations about the use of the fineline tape that they also produce that didn't quite seal as well. Notice too the removal of the raised rear side indicator detail on either side, later to be partially puttied in so that the same will appear as a soft, filled and reflector-shaped indentation on the panel work ...and finally viewed across the top. The hood roundel represents another test of material and will soon vanish as the shell is media blasted. Some room for adjustment is had for the flares can be adjusted in and out for either swinging in or out from the top prior to contour matching the outer lip to the fender surfaces. And finally, I may drill out windshield wiper mount holes for they seem to be missing on later Greenlight Trans Am releases. Thanks for examining this most recent update. Mike K.

A very effective mod. there - surely a great improvement. Thank you for sharing your techniques and sources too. Mike K.

...modest updates to report, although to this point little has been done underhood. ...the front bumperettes have been returned by the vacuum plater, after first being sanded to remove mold lines as well as the front license plate. Noticeable, though surely difficult to discern, the exterior door handle has been flooded with body color paint, while old Detail Master photo etched door lock cylinders have been added to each raised 'lock' assembly. Matter appear less toy-like in sum... ...shorn of unattractive locating pins and mold lines, the delicate chromed exhaust tips have here been reset. ...held in reserve at this point, seen are a pair of cast resin 1:18th ERTL Collectibles 1967 Impala SS 427 valve covers in combination with a 1:18th Hwy. 61 1969 Camaro COPO air cleaner lid, also cast in resin and subsequently vacuum plated. I'll likely add '396' identification to the lid from an old Fred Cady 1:25th sheet, all the more so given that the air cleaner art always struck me as a bit large for 1:25th use anyhow. Thanks for reviewing this most recent update... Mike K.

(Updated on 10/15/18: The Pegasus range has the 'stepped sleeve' product back in stock, hence I ordered new parts and subsequently altered my previous build to this point) My choice of color still appears a bit too strong, hence pondering the revision of another shell plus flares given that stripping lacquer would also entail ruining what delicate resin and putty work went into capturing what is seen below. At the very least I wouldn't be tossing away the proverbial 'bird in hand' if I started anew independent of that which I've worked up. Thanks for reviewing this post... Mike K.

Hello again, After sanding down the finish errors present along the top surfaces of the model, I resprayed the work in a slightly lighter Tamiya lacquer aerosol as seen here. Noticed is a ride height/track mock up using standard GMP ARE Torque Thrust wheels which will be replaced with wheels almost identical to those used on the later-season blue #2 Mustang. If it might help others, included below is a scan of the '68 Shelby Racing Co. decal that appears mostly as a blur either on the quarter panel of the cars early season, or positioned on the C-pillar when the cars were painted yellow. Kind thanks to Phil Jacobs for sourcing this rare artwork. Pressing ahead again then... Mike K.

Nice cage - looking very assured and controlled there. Thanks for sharing... Mike K.

Greetings, Pretty good stuff - I envy the foresight you demonstrated for scooping up multiples of the GMP Todco '69 Camaro to facilitate such projects in particular. I remember you'd also tried a marriage between the Road Legends/Yat Ming '69 Firebird Trans Am - another unlikely pairing that also worked out unexpectedly well. Thanks for sharing. - Some scattered work then, although some reverses to report too... ...seen are all the roll cage tubes back of the main hoop taking shape. I ended up drilling through the fabricated bulkhead as well as the Welly floor section insert so that judging the length of the actual tubes as well as the angles where they touch the panels prior to gluing wasn't so critical. Though hard to see, a pair of tubes continue on into the trunk area where a cast resin fuel cell is situated. ...sorry - fuzzy as all get out this image. This would be a modified Hwy. 61 BOSS 302 oil pan with the addition of a scratch built sump in the style of the Aviaid pan visible upon a pair of Tunnel Port 302's in a pit lane photo found in the new Lipetz Trans Am Era book. Early season photos demonstrate that a cast aluminum Cobra pan was employed. A third design was said to be used employing exterior drainbacks, although this I've not seen. ...this would be the hood black out applied, while notice too how the entire headlamp bucket is painted akin to the smaller J. Titus image seen earlier in this thread. Masking proved problematic until I decided to apply Tamiya tape to another shell and cut the same with an Xacto knife smoothly across the recess formed between the bucket and the fender proper. Once I cut the masking, I simply transferred the remaining bit to the painted shell prior to spraying. Headlamp bucket fill panels are difficult to make out here, although they look nice for being well shaped. Also note the revised 'rubber' seal around the fuel cell inlet. All appeared good until this point - that is until I basically wrecked the paint on the top of the model for clumsy handling and slipshod masking of the stripe work to come. Doubts also exist as to the veracity of the shade of yellow used, hence I'm going to salvage matters best I can. At first I felt gutted for my mistake, but I suppose that the use of a rather thin primer as well as thin Tamiya color coats makes matters less dire than initially feared. ...for near endless review of exterior photos in-period, I'm still convinced that for select races that the paler '67 shade of yellow was substituted for Special Yellow WT6066 which has a slightly greater punch while also appearing a touch pale in certain light and for certain so-so period color processes. A mid-year offering hinting of more vibrant Grabber colors to come later in the era, perhaps this accounts for the variations seen in body hue that really don't factor across so many reasoned 1967 images inspected? I think I'm on my own making the WT6066 leap per se, but at present it makes sense to me. Thanks to the kindness of area authority Phil Jacobs, the identity of the shade used in '67 and beyond was learned, whereas I'll revise this post and record such here. ...and finally the next set of wheels taking shape. I failed to properly wire brush the top right example, hence distracting flash is noticed. MM magnesium with a dusting of Tamiya Pearlescent Clear seems the best way to go here. New aluminum outer rings to come. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K.

Neat project - thanks for sharing. I'm doing stuff in 1:18th along much the same lines and would be happy to exchanges notes and information should you wish. Mike K.

Greetings, Another small update here: ...at least two of these decals are needed per '67 car, located forward of the wheel arch on the front fender in '67. The '68 Shelby Racing Co. decal is of a different design, while someone on another board has kindly come through with information concerning the look and dimensions of such. ...here is seen a fuel inlet cutout on the deck lid of the soon-to-be yellow '68. I ended up fixing fast the panel to a few panels of cardboard with lengths of duct tape so both hands could control the drill, whereas a small segment of the same tape was used right where I'd drill through to ensure the bit wouldn't skip about and thus mar the surface. The rest was simply done with files and a coil or two of sandpaper... ...very difficult to photograph well, this is the body in paint. Yes - this model will sit lower than the blue '68. At this point it seems likely that the project will gobble up at least four or five cans of Tamiya aerosol, hence not a cheap endeavor. I later went back and subtly redid the panel line formed between the quarter panel and the rocker just behind each door, trying if you will to come up more with a welded panel line versus an inelegant razor saw cut line. Also, it was discovered that gaps existed between the blended in rocker panels and the door jams/inner rocker panels, and given applying extra paint via spraying was only so effective, I ended up applying paint via a brush prior to applying an overcoat of same work to disguise the effort. It's not terrible in sum. Thanks for skimming this update. Mike K.

Greetings, If it helps you, I've searched a bit across both the Dan Gurney as well as the best Swede Savage pages on Facebook searching for reasonably clear images capturing the 'other color' to the best possible effect. Ponder the following with the understanding that the best is first and that things go downhill as you continue! The Speed Merchants shot of Swede Savage at St. Jovite may not be the most trustworthy for the limitations of period color process, although isn't the first Gurney shot seen below fresh and vibrant? Anyhow, ponder the following: Kind regards... Mike K.

Greetings, A modest update then... ...things can look a bit better underneath for removal of the product identification back of the torque boxes on either side. A body shop sanding block was helpful here. ...first time in primer, this would be a modified 1:18th Greenlight '68 Mustang shell with appropriate flare work added front and rear. The rocker panel trim overlay was further bonded onto the shell and smoothed, panel lines were cut for the fenders looking forward, while a small line was etched between the quarter panel and the rocker panel on each side. Know that I hope to do an earlier season '68 Shelby Racing Co. entry in the more vivid of the two yellows employed that year so that in the end I'll have two '67 team cars as well as two '68 renditions. ...notice too the mildly indented rear side indicator detail, not installed but rather plugged in. ...hard to tell if this is the slightly more vibrant shade of yellow as described, but akin to what I desire to replicate. Note the roll hoop mounted signalling lamp akin to what was later used in '69 and in '70 on the AAR 'Cudas. I believe the venue here is '68 Bryar, NH. ...Titus at speed, this certainly being the shade I hint at, the venue being Bridgehampton, NY. slightly later in the season. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K.

Very nice work ibj40 - I really like the discreet vent detail too... Yes, all I did was chop the standard Greenlight/ACME floor just forward of the main roll hoop mounts. Efforts to set new roll cage elements looking back met with grief last evening for the parts were so difficult to accurately size and place, so I'll likely end up drilling right through the insert to guide tubing straight through for better control of my work. The same will be done with the bars leading from the top of the main hoop through towards the trunk area; i.e. I imagine the way it should be! More model car 'mission creep' of which I am famous for. ...although mostly a white blur, this would be the chassis prior to substituting in the Welly Trans Am Mustang interior element. GIven the glass comes out of the ACME Mustang without too much trouble, here I'll use it as a guide to establish the evolving dimensions of the forward members of the roll cage with less risk of damaging it for manipulating the diecast body on and off it repeatedly. Also seen is a 1:18th Lane '68 Shelby Mustang dashboard (work here is incomplete) and a Welly Trans Am Mustang Grant steering wheel slated to go in. Hopefully I can cast the steering wheel so a ready supply will always be on call. ...this would be the support structure employed to situate the dash to the body. Setting it back isn't so hard, but rather elevating it and setting it on the right angle versus the dismal siting of the standard Greenlight/ACME panel is the chore here. More structure will be added to ensure that the dash effectively hangs off of the firewall and independently from the body proper. ...happily, no clearance issues to report. If all goes well, I'll soon have the dash suspended from the firewall and be ready to fabricate further elements of the roll cage. ...not perfection really, but note the removal of the battery and windshield washer solvent bottle otherwise cast-in to the inner fenders. Though hard to see, brackets have been fabricated to situate the strengthening brace across the suspension turrets. Perhaps I should go back and create a proper battery cut out and tray? Tamiya semi-gloss black works well as a slightly dingy chassis black as seen here. ...and finally, the definitive answer on where to display the otherwise lonely Shelby Racing Co. Toyota 2000 GT I happen to have. The models were observed chatting late into the night about opportunities lost in '68... Mike K.

Greetings, Seen below will be the interior taking shape, combining the trim less rear seat pads with the bare 'stamped steel' detail otherwise found on the Welly Trans Am Mustang series noticeable here for wearing a silver finish. The main hoop of the roll cage has been fabricated, whereas after siting a Lane '68 Shelby GT350 Mustang dashboard off of the firewall, I should have the dimensions of the rest of the cage effectively locked in. The wheels and tires, to speak little of the engine and transmission seen here, simply reflect the stock 1:18th diecast offerings and stand to be replaced outright. ...also included is an old Aviaid oil pan decal useful for the purposes of reducing in scale and adding to the later-season oil pan soon to be finished. A chrome finish paint will be used to replicate the bright finish Aviaid then employed and still employs. ...thanks for skimming this most recent update. Mike K.

Nicely done and nicely photographed both. BoS makes some neat and certainly eclectic choices with regards to what they take on, whereas I have one and find that the transition to sealed resin model manufacture hasn't left me bitter. Thanks for sharing... Mike K.

Greetings, Although perhaps not an option for everyone given the service may not be availed everywhere, I've taken my own die cast body shells to area plastic media blasters to be afforded a service akin to sandblasting. Occasionally they can be slightly overzealous and some material loss is noted, but in the main the process is mess and chemical-free and hence something to consider. Kind regards... Mike K.