swede70

Thanks for your kind words and notice. I ended up ordering the new Mike's Decals DG 'Cuda waterslide set and was happy indeed to note that some select images could be added to my 1:18th model even as I didn't strictly expect to discover such utility. Thanks for your efforts to ensure that sheet had all that it features on it. Mike K.

...consistent with the resuscitation of other threads I fitfully maintain, here's another... Some time ago I broke down and purchased the ACME 1:18th Dan Gurney AAR 'Cuda racer, and so soon after I purchased the ACME Sam Posey Autodynamics Challenger racer even as it too is based upon a stock shell and chassis with only modest enhancements. This said, I did decide to grab one, if only to do a low-key early season #77 with my other effort to be seen to completion as a late-season #76 as originally intended. - The Autodynamics Challenger release isn't terrible, although for reasoned intervention one can improve it. A few ideas follow: ...in the pits, likely at Laguna Seca '70. Note heavy strengthening bead on the edge of the front spoiler. The ACME model features a ungainly shovel of a front spoiler akin to what the restored #77 runs, and this I decided had to go. Somehow the pair of GOODYEAR markings otherwise present on the hood are absent here; i.e. perhaps this was in practice or before qualifying? ...more shots of the same, with the collision damage likely resulting from contact with Peter Revson who came out second-best in a braking duel also at Laguna... ...sort of a recycled and old subassembly, this was a spoiler I did up for my original Challenger Trans Am project. The bead is simply half round stock heated to cleanly reproduce the curves. The scoop entries aren't all they could be given they should be higher, but alas, this is what I'm using to date. ...the front spoiler in place, imperfect as it is. Almost impossible to see are the waterslide decals afforded by a friend who took some scanned engine-turned surface detail and rendered a very impressive and convincing pattern that is used over the headlamp fill panels on this model. The black scoop paint has also been extended a bit forward as well as contrasted to the standard ACME release. Since this photo was taken, the blue and yellow Goodyear 'diamond' was removed (a hazardous undertaking this) and replaced with a black and white version of the same which I believe to be correct. ...the topic under hood at Laguna Seca during tech. Note the modified, albeit standard pressed-steel air cleaner housing with modifications to accommodate the twin breather setup, while doubled OEM air cleaners with a slightly smaller stock lid is also seen. Given this setup was not replicated on the restored vehicle, I thought it would be nice to try to reproduce it in scale. Suitable decals for all that is missing are coming - I hope! ...the chassis then from the top, and a lot done even as most of it will vanish beneath paint. From the front, the shock absorber mounts/inner fender detail was scratch built and copied in resin so that all my E-body Trans Am models will feature such. The oil cooler pocket has been opened up, a small (perhaps marine?) battery was scratch built and set in place, an overflow/coolant reservoir has been added (also in resin), while a scratch built cage is clearly taking shape. The cage is something of a low-key compromise given that the door hinge assemblies prevent the front of the cage from extending both fully forward and as wide laterally as I'd wish, while the rear of the cage is a bit of a cheat given the racer doesn't have a package shelf fitted per se. Unlike the standard ACME release, the quarter panel interior trim will be painted black as is seen. Stripping them wasn't a lot of fun, but it is possible - so there! Moving along, one will note that I've opted to mount the dash board off of the firewall rather than attach the dash to the body as per ACME/Hwy. 61. The design of the cage with the A-pillar bars cutting through the top of the standard dash pad corners (albeit shaved a bit from below to lighten the structure) necessitated such, while I've done things in a fashion designed to hide the structure I've worked up to do the job. Note too the mount for the triple brake/clutch hydraulic systems as per the reference photo reproduced above. Gone is the velour insert painted onto the stock ACME racing seat - hence the sticky 'comfort' of all-vinyl is afforded the scale driver. Dead pedal to come, although with the screw bosses positioned where they are, doing something convincing will be tough... Finally, for reference to the air cleaner assembly made above, also seen is an aluminum wine cooler cap that cut up, set upside down and combined with a pair of cast resin 6BBL Hwy. 61 AAR 'Cuda air cleaners employed to reproduce the pair of round stock elements, these finally topped off with a Hwy. 61 340 Dart air filter lid to complete matters. Some tiny half round stock was used to form a lip on the aluminum cap, which the whole thing was cut down on the bottle itself for otherwise it proved difficult to handle. The breathers were replaced with chromed resin Lane '68 Shelby GT500KR items, while the intake is a modified Hwy. 61 340 Dart part. Happily the new ACME Trans Am headers live happily in-place and don't interfere with the new inner fender detail. Whew! ...and just in brief, I dislike the gloss finish applied to the roof, knowing the finish applied in-period was flat as all get out. I ended up taping off the foil (thanks Tamiya!) and deliberately over sprayed the standard finish. The A-pillar fresh air vent had to go given it only appeared mid-season, and hence it was removed and the mounting hole plugged before paint was applied here. Another image across a later post will telegraph the use of 1:25th scale Fred Cady images to redo the lettering across either side of the roof - something that worked unexpectedly well. Whoops - note too the refinished wheels wearing what translates best as Minilite magnesium alloy to me; i.e. namely Testor's MM Stainless Steel Buffing with a light overcoat of Tamiya Pearlescent Clear. Thanks for reading my often clumsy copy. More to come... Mike K.

...returning to the topic of what are now ACME/Greenlight Trans Am Mustangs, This would be the new 1968 Daytona 24HR-winning Shelby Racing Co. Mustang as driven by Jerry Titus and Ron Bucknam. The main photo depicts the model pretty much as-delivered but for some accessory decals that were applied as tampos having been replaced with slightly better rendered water slide images. The second photo depicts the model wearing a set of old GMP Trans Am Camaro ARE Torque Thrust wheels that have been painted for the use of a model rocket nose cone that served to mask what was required. The ride height of the model was reduced front and rear, while the hood black out paint was extended subtlety outwards near the front fender extensions/headlamp bucket assemblies. Chrome bathroom hardware washers were employed to mimic brake discs, although I haven't worked up calipers to match as I write. More work will follow. Thanks... ...the topic on the infield of Daytona Motor Speedway. If it helps anyone, the 'missing' decal on my front fender 'stack' is a rare 'Lighting by Sylvania' accessory sticker likely reflecting the brand of road lamps fitted. The gooey tape remains are seen of what foam protection was afforded for all the lighting up front as seen in some photographs from the event, whereas so soon the left inner lamp was toast. ...the model pretty much as-delivered, with the May '68 issue of SCG to match. A refueling assembly cloned in resin was painted and is visible on the deck lid, as is a single GMP Trans Am Camaro hood pin that is centered and visible across the back. ...the old GMP Trans Am Camaro wheel and tire set less paint work, otherwise ready to go. FWIW, the period picture likely captures Jerry Titus in practice sans a certain Goodyear 'diamond' atop the front wheel arch opening... ...a plastic nose cone, with a cut down example resting alongside a wheel set to be painted. I found it helped to use a round file and open up still further the border formed between the nose cone wall and where the five individual spokes joined the outer rim proper. ...the mask in action, so to speak. Another scrap wheel was cut apart to isolate the small machined pad that a decorative hub would otherwise be mounted upon were this a street application. This isolated chunk o' wheel was matched to a length of round plastic stock which then was mated to the wheel to be painted so that the plating on the machined pad could be saved rather than lost under a layer of gray. ...the model as it now sits. A contact on FB did the very nice '68-specific Shelby Racing Co. decal seen on the rear quarter panel reflecting the work done to come up with the image seen further up this thread, while the exhaust dumps were removed, reshaped slightly, and finally repainted. Thanks for skimming this post. Mike K.

Hmmm, I detect a GMP Trans Am Camaro chassis, a quick-change rear of mysterious origin (looks good though!), and maybe an ERTL engine of some description calling the engine compartment home. The plot thickens... Mike K.

...a little over the top, but the F1 BMW/Benetton B186's as they appeared at Detroit was certainly memorable... - ...also of interest might be the Ligier JS39 Art Car livery seen at the Australian Grand Prix to close out the 1993 season. As was typical in period, the title sponsor was Gitanes, while short of viewing the car from a slight distance to make out the lettering entire, hard it was at first glance to strictly make out what was being telegraphed in a commercial sense. Mike K.

I like the early BMW Art Cars, with this being the first and best known - namely the Alexander Calder CSL. Mike K.

Perhaps in keeping with the theme of adding a mix of O.E.M. decals under hood that weren't period SCCA correct, looking at the contemporary image quickly, I thought maybe I was seeing a 'Magnum' air cleaner image if that helps. Mike K.

Greetings, Not exactly a speedy project arriving at any swift end, this would be a long-nursed 1:18 diecast project based upon the old ERTL American Muscle '70 Firebird Trans Am tool. In sum, all the Trans Am-specific aero aides have been either cut or filed off in a manner that renders their presence invisible. Engine is a GMP '72 GTO 455 HO less transmission which unscrews and falls away and off - a good thing this. The Formula-specific hood scoops were scratch built by me some time ago, while at nearly the same time I tried to create a full hood mold that included an attempt to plug the void otherwise occupied by the reverse-opening shaker. The hood scoop molds survive, whilst the full hood mold perished after three pulls - sigh. Note the fetching character line plus matching contour I worked so hard for across the territory the shaker would otherwise identify as home... The model is awaits my sourcing a '72 ERTL Trans Am (a few releases were done complete with mildly revised grille work as well as interior differences) to carry it to completion, while small other details still stand to be altered. The grille surrounds are '73 ERTL Trans Am issue - these being a bit thinner, whereas under hood some assemblies have been sourced from the otherwise good '72 Welly Trans Am including the fan shroud and A/C installation. The exterior door latches are '72 Welly Trans Am items (holes for locating the so-so standard ERTL fare had to be plugged just behind), while I've temporarily plugged the clunky rectangular exterior side mirror mounts in anticipation of fashioning ovalized mounts leading to the otherwise honestly rendered ERTL racing mirrors. And yes - the engine turned instrument panel detail will soon give way to a faux wood sheen. Thanks for examining this post...

Thanks everyone for the valued input. Replies with photographs was much more than I expected. Sorry to sow confusion if I did, surely I have enough information to work with and act on. Again, my thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Sorry if this question seems a bit vain. I'm not well versed in relation to the current crop of kits to the extent of being able to readily identify where to source the best parts for this and that, hence I'm tapping the collective consciousness here to that end. I'm working up a 1:25th Scale Coachworks '64/'71-season SCCA Trans Am 'Gray Ghost' combining the resin shell based on the old AMT annual tool with what I vaguely remember as an Oldsmobile 442 chassis with whatever engine I've cobbled up. I think I've employed the Lindberg kit for the dash and interior panel work. Contrasted to other Scale Coachworks builds of this topic seen online, know that I've filed off much of the flares to the extent of raising and reshaping each wheel arch. The material is there aplenty - it just needs to be removed some... Back when this was a current project for me, I remember being disaffected with the molded-in exterior door handles, hence I scrubbed them completely from the body shell and need to replace them with something suitable. My question to those who know their contemporary tools is WHAT might be best? I'm thinking of a part or assembly that is attached separately, and that would allow a tiny 1:25th hand to grab the handle given it would be cut clear through. Again, sorry to be uninformed and a bit vain. If it helps anyone working up the same topic, I've included a paint recommendation for the late-season rims, interior and chassis - all of $3.96 - whoopee! Thanks to the community... Extra and exciting BONUS question! Are the pad-printed GOODYEAR Blue Streak Stock Car Specials in the '71 Bobby Allison Monte Carlo rerelease (maybe it's a '72?) worth grabbing? I'm thinking of employing them here. Kind thanks... Mike K./Swede70 Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, A host of small changes made on the 1:18th Gurney 'Cuda helps matters greatly. Seen are new Patto's Place numerals moved about to suggest a late-season appearance, as well as accessory decals removed and replaced or overlaid with images a bit better registered or appropriately colored. Happily I am report that the ACME decal work came off easily for simply scratching relevant images off with only the use of a fingernail. Usually nail polish remover sans artificial coloring and cotton swabs in excess is the way to go here, but in this instance no measurable damage was done to the underlying surface for chipping off this image or that. Notice that the hood-situated #48 is positioned further forward, while the door numerals are now further apart. The PP sheet didn't include driver identification for atop the door numerals, hence now-rare Fred Cady waterslide images were employed from his Trans Am-themed 1:25th sheets of old. The driver identification decals have been positioned well forward reflecting again a late-season spec. The Champion Spark Plugs, STP, BELL Helmets and Union 76 accessory decals are 1:25th waterslide images doing extra duty here in 1:18th land. Also added has been a scratch built five-panel Wink interior rear view mirror, while mounts for the narrowed front spoiler have been fabricated so that the original ACME rendered version may be left off. The exhaust dumps have been redone in brass tubing as well. Last week I ordered an ACME '70 Autodynamics Challenger which I anticipate modifying in a like manner. Thanks...

Very beautiful - especially the Studebaker. Thanks for sharing... Mike K.

A small further update this...: Missing on the ACME release is any duct work guiding scale air to scale radiators just aft of the front valence. Although very tedious to do from scratch seen below is something that serves the purpose. Additionally, separate dams were fashioned to direct air alternately to the oil cooler as well as the aforementioned radiator matrix. The cut outs seen accommodate the grille which tucks in close, whereas the rearmost ends of the assembly rest solidly upon the radiator support. Done right, no glue is required to hold the assembly in place. The fuzzy photo image shows the mock up, although contrasting this to the painted and installed image, know I'll have to repaint it aluminum to match the reference image seen in the previous post seen above. ...the mock up positioned inside the valence on what I'll call an engineering hack of sorts... ...and set in place, although begging if you will to be repainted aluminum given it shows up well when one examines the Riverside Mission Bell 250 image I've pasted in within the space of my previous submission. Thanks... Mike K.

Kind thanks for the reply and Happy Holidays to everyone... Although worried that I'd wreck an otherwise nice feature of the ACME model in the form of the 'machined lip' Minilite wheels, for the last two races of the 1970 Trans Am season all-white wheel were phased in. Consistent with this knowledge, I opted to repaint my wheels with Tamiya Matt White. Do as I say and not as I do should you go this route; i.e. heat the wheels and tires in very warm water to ensure that the wheels won't scuff the tires - albeit I acted in haste and did everything 'cold'. Nevertheless, the wheel finish is virtually indistinguishable from the stock ACME issue, is resilient enough not to rub off onto the tires proper, and in total is very much in keeping with the late season look. I will at some point add small strips of sheet plastic with tiny lengths of silver duct tape to do wheel weights to lend a further bit of visual interest here. As for the revised wheels, see below: ...now mounted on the model, combined with lower ride height front and rear and still further revised exhaust dump detail, see below: ...given I want to replicate the Riverside D.G. retirement ride per se, it is important to replace the ACME front spoiler with a scratch built model of smaller dimension, paint the same matt black, and add the necessary Dzus fasteners (four then). Here would be D. Gurney pursued by Swede Savage and Mark Donohue at Riverside bearing a damaged spoiler evidencing the otherwise absent fasteners: ...constructed out of sheet plastic, painted and overlaid onto the standard ACME air dam just for reference purposes at this time, here sits the new air dam. A Fred Cady 1:25th '70 Trans Am AAR 'Cuda waterslide sheet was used for the 'Plymouth' decal which would actually be the fender top decal resited and reemployed here as a 1:18th spoiler decal. Do not use clear atop the Fred Cady decal for the decal will effectively dissolve; i.e. I had to do this twice over. Dzus fasteners are 1:25th photoetched items held in place with Tamiya clear lacquer with the individual fasteners positioned with the use of a toothpick with a bit of petroleum jelly/lip balm dabbed on the end. I suppose they could be larger, but who knows where to source 1:18th Dzus fasteners?: ...as noted above, the installation seen is temporary. I'll use a spare front valence which I'll paint and build spoiler mounts upon to ensure that I can simply switch out new for old without harming the stock ACME assembly. This way the modification will be guilt-free with the original serving as a spare to slip onto a different car if need be. Whoops! - seems that the inside Dzus fasteners were sited a bit low relative to my reference photo. I'll have to redo things, but doing such isn't a killer if you will. Kind thanks for your reviewing this update... Mike K.

Greetings, After many months of waiting the 1:18th ACME Hwy. 61 tool-based Dan Gurney race AAR 'Cuda has arrived, and hence I can calmly go about the business of choosing the best bits and pieces to work up the best E-body road racing replicas I might. The ACME model is mostly an agreeable compromise given they had to work with a stock bodyshell and chassis casting, while sometimes it's good to take on a limited project where one is simply introducing mild revisions of this and that versus scratch building so very much. Below will be seen a few images of a revised Gurney release with encouragement of you to try the same. Alterations of note are as follows: Larger headlamp fill panels have been fabricated from sheet plastic and painted Tamiya TS-49 Bright Red to better replicate the appearance of Gurney's return to driving duty at Kent and Riverside '70. The tail panel has been replaced with a painted example less dayglo stripes - see my 'dry' paint fixture work up for the purpose. A slightly larger fuel fill pipe as well as a larger Hwy. 61 '70 340 Dart fuel cap was added at this time as well. Tamiya TS-55 Dark Blue dusted with TS-65 Pearl Clear works really well here. The 'PLYMOUTH' identification in the grille has been painted out. Correct for some races, but not for Kent or Riverside then... The jack point highlight on the rocker panels has been removed and replaced with red R/C vinyl tape which was a bit taller and happily vibrant in color. The door handles have received a Testor's Model Master magnesium wash versus the as-delivered black wash. The exhaust dumps have been trimmed, the ends worked over with a Dremel Moto-tool to appear oval and a bit dipped, and finally painted flat black. The A-pillar air duct hardware has been touched in with silver paint. A cast resin fuel cell housing has been added underneath and back. The 'DAN GURNEY' identification above the side numerals has been removed and shifted forward for use of old Fred Cady waterslides which seemed about the same size. Specific to the Riverside Mission Bell 250 appearance, a BELL helmets decal has been added to either side atop the 'stack' of accessory decals seen on the rear quarter panel well forward. A useless cast-in turn signal indicator stalk was cut off and discarded. Missing the stock front turn signal lenses typically inset into the grille on the standard Hwy. 61 'Cuda releases, a pair of the lenses were found and painted semigloss black to represent fill panels prior to being fitted. ...the aforementioned tail panel masking fixture. The lock cylinder has been mostly ground away, although I was reluctant to try to finish it smooth for fear of wrecking the whole assembly for being too greedy. I wish I'd primed the license plate recess fill panel before spraying, but otherwise a reasonably sound approach to take. Clay was used to prevent paint bleed through to the lenses left in place along the back side of what is seen... ...painted, although coverage not the best around the edges of the insert. Oh well... ...with the strange upturned exhaust dumps still unmodified here, nevertheless the fuel cell housing looks quite good hanging down just so. Tamiya AS-16 Light Gray (USAF) isn't a perfect match but will have to do... ...with most everything articulated above in place. Note the rocker 'flashes', the cut exhaust tips, and the headlamp fill panels as described. ...the view from the back, with the body-color tail panel in place and the small BELL helmets decal add shown to good effect. More little things to come, while hopefully the other E-body projects can pick up steam for the availability of scattered new tool stuff. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K.

A small update then... This would be the second shell returned from the media blaster and outfitted with the thinned flares seen above. The dimensions between the flares and the body shell cutouts up front are a bit tighter, while the rocker panel inserts stand to be blended in with greater care soon. Thanks... Mike K. M.K.

I'll do my best to disregard the teasing tone of the message left above. At some point people post so many messages that they claim ownership of the whole experience of the board, and I suppose if I don't adjust my presentation to suit whatever might be their expectations and standards, then I'm a target. Complaint lodged, complaint ignored. Mike K.

Looks wonderful - I had a '74 2002 and am greatly enamored with your build. Hope the 'carpet monster' yields up that which she has taken... Mike K.

Greetings and thanks for the kind feedback... Although unpleasantly laborious, a new shell with new flares has largely been worked up - kind thanks to ibj40/Jim F. for all the valued assistance and support (i.e. I'm still using up what I have!). Other modest things to report as well: ...this would be an attempt at door roundels w/black outline border plus door driver identification (Ariel font, 14 size if I accurately recall). Believe or not, I just used a black Sharpie pen and a stencil set to get the outline, although it's best to carefully seal such with the decal bonder in a can as illustrated; i.e. apply the stuff too heavily and the marker runs. I haven't determined how to best cut the images out cleanly, whereas I'm thinking of applying different varieties of Tamiya white to insure that the resulting roundels are as vibrant as they can be prior to application onto the work much like any other waterslide decal. ...this would be the stuff of my flares in a particularly raw state. Some time ago I began upon a 1:18th scale Hwy. 61-based 1970 Autodynamics Trans Am Dodge Challenger, and had the foresight to copy what I'd worked up for the use of urethane molds to backstop my efforts. The copies seen above look a bit pudgy, although I've found it easier to remove material to arrive at a proper shape versus adding material later and struggling thus. ...much thinned here, and quite substantially recontoured and reshaped. If only the movement of your mouse reflected how much time was spent to proceed from point A to point B! ...ignore the '68 Daytona 24HR image for the front flares aren't really in the final configuration! Here is seen the heavily reworked front flares in position within filed cutouts on the body proper. Note how the fender opening contour blends easily into the flares both towards the front and terminating towards the end of flare as it blends back into the fender. And yes, the front valence has been cut out entirely - a nasty business given I did this by hand with a simple razor saw over two days. Lastly, the clumsily rendered B-pillars and associated cast-in weather sealing have been filed off complete, faintly noticeable for the clean finish of the surfaces just below the roof edges as seen here. ...the flares in place with white craft glue only. Seeking a risk-free paint test platform, the reader will notice the otherwise odd hood black out treatment as well as the stripework witnessed across the top of the vehicle. The normal rice paper Tamiya masking tape is great stuff, although I have reservations about the use of the fineline tape that they also produce that didn't quite seal as well. Notice too the removal of the raised rear side indicator detail on either side, later to be partially puttied in so that the same will appear as a soft, filled and reflector-shaped indentation on the panel work ...and finally viewed across the top. The hood roundel represents another test of material and will soon vanish as the shell is media blasted. Some room for adjustment is had for the flares can be adjusted in and out for either swinging in or out from the top prior to contour matching the outer lip to the fender surfaces. And finally, I may drill out windshield wiper mount holes for they seem to be missing on later Greenlight Trans Am releases. Thanks for examining this most recent update. Mike K.

A very effective mod. there - surely a great improvement. Thank you for sharing your techniques and sources too. Mike K.

...modest updates to report, although to this point little has been done underhood. ...the front bumperettes have been returned by the vacuum plater, after first being sanded to remove mold lines as well as the front license plate. Noticeable, though surely difficult to discern, the exterior door handle has been flooded with body color paint, while old Detail Master photo etched door lock cylinders have been added to each raised 'lock' assembly. Matter appear less toy-like in sum... ...shorn of unattractive locating pins and mold lines, the delicate chromed exhaust tips have here been reset. ...held in reserve at this point, seen are a pair of cast resin 1:18th ERTL Collectibles 1967 Impala SS 427 valve covers in combination with a 1:18th Hwy. 61 1969 Camaro COPO air cleaner lid, also cast in resin and subsequently vacuum plated. I'll likely add '396' identification to the lid from an old Fred Cady 1:25th sheet, all the more so given that the air cleaner art always struck me as a bit large for 1:25th use anyhow. Thanks for reviewing this most recent update... Mike K.

(Updated on 10/15/18: The Pegasus range has the 'stepped sleeve' product back in stock, hence I ordered new parts and subsequently altered my previous build to this point) My choice of color still appears a bit too strong, hence pondering the revision of another shell plus flares given that stripping lacquer would also entail ruining what delicate resin and putty work went into capturing what is seen below. At the very least I wouldn't be tossing away the proverbial 'bird in hand' if I started anew independent of that which I've worked up. Thanks for reviewing this post... Mike K.

Hello again, After sanding down the finish errors present along the top surfaces of the model, I resprayed the work in a slightly lighter Tamiya lacquer aerosol as seen here. Noticed is a ride height/track mock up using standard GMP ARE Torque Thrust wheels which will be replaced with wheels almost identical to those used on the later-season blue #2 Mustang. If it might help others, included below is a scan of the '68 Shelby Racing Co. decal that appears mostly as a blur either on the quarter panel of the cars early season, or positioned on the C-pillar when the cars were painted yellow. Kind thanks to Phil Jacobs for sourcing this rare artwork. Pressing ahead again then... Mike K.

Nice cage - looking very assured and controlled there. Thanks for sharing... Mike K.

Greetings, Pretty good stuff - I envy the foresight you demonstrated for scooping up multiples of the GMP Todco '69 Camaro to facilitate such projects in particular. I remember you'd also tried a marriage between the Road Legends/Yat Ming '69 Firebird Trans Am - another unlikely pairing that also worked out unexpectedly well. Thanks for sharing. - Some scattered work then, although some reverses to report too... ...seen are all the roll cage tubes back of the main hoop taking shape. I ended up drilling through the fabricated bulkhead as well as the Welly floor section insert so that judging the length of the actual tubes as well as the angles where they touch the panels prior to gluing wasn't so critical. Though hard to see, a pair of tubes continue on into the trunk area where a cast resin fuel cell is situated. ...sorry - fuzzy as all get out this image. This would be a modified Hwy. 61 BOSS 302 oil pan with the addition of a scratch built sump in the style of the Aviaid pan visible upon a pair of Tunnel Port 302's in a pit lane photo found in the new Lipetz Trans Am Era book. Early season photos demonstrate that a cast aluminum Cobra pan was employed. A third design was said to be used employing exterior drainbacks, although this I've not seen. ...this would be the hood black out applied, while notice too how the entire headlamp bucket is painted akin to the smaller J. Titus image seen earlier in this thread. Masking proved problematic until I decided to apply Tamiya tape to another shell and cut the same with an Xacto knife smoothly across the recess formed between the bucket and the fender proper. Once I cut the masking, I simply transferred the remaining bit to the painted shell prior to spraying. Headlamp bucket fill panels are difficult to make out here, although they look nice for being well shaped. Also note the revised 'rubber' seal around the fuel cell inlet. All appeared good until this point - that is until I basically wrecked the paint on the top of the model for clumsy handling and slipshod masking of the stripe work to come. Doubts also exist as to the veracity of the shade of yellow used, hence I'm going to salvage matters best I can. At first I felt gutted for my mistake, but I suppose that the use of a rather thin primer as well as thin Tamiya color coats makes matters less dire than initially feared. ...for near endless review of exterior photos in-period, I'm still convinced that for select races that the paler '67 shade of yellow was substituted for Special Yellow WT6066 which has a slightly greater punch while also appearing a touch pale in certain light and for certain so-so period color processes. A mid-year offering hinting of more vibrant Grabber colors to come later in the era, perhaps this accounts for the variations seen in body hue that really don't factor across so many reasoned 1967 images inspected? I think I'm on my own making the WT6066 leap per se, but at present it makes sense to me. Thanks to the kindness of area authority Phil Jacobs, the identity of the shade used in '67 and beyond was learned, whereas I'll revise this post and record such here. ...and finally the next set of wheels taking shape. I failed to properly wire brush the top right example, hence distracting flash is noticed. MM magnesium with a dusting of Tamiya Pearlescent Clear seems the best way to go here. New aluminum outer rings to come. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K.