swede70

Thanks for the interest and replies... For isolating parts from damaged, ruined or discarded projects of my own as well as those afforded by a few other 1:18th enthusiasts, some of the most egregious expenses associated with fitting out my projects with this part and that have been minimized. Sometimes I've pushed too far and have wrecked a body or chassis, while at other times perhaps a private buyer has purchased two or three cars necessary to complete a custom project, leaving whatever remains in my hands or the hands of hobby friend or friends who in turn may trade items back to me. Further, limiting my focus to period road racing topics and homologation specials so-themed and sticking with 1:18th diecast from about 2000 to the present, in addition to experiments made with hand cast resin has allowed me to stretch what resources I have across time and across projects - not that such measures strictly make things cheap! I've never taken on or solicited intensive build projects for pay, and hence I'm largely clueless as to what I dedicate to my efforts in terms of time and money. For me it's been a hobby and about networking with like-aligned friends rather than calculated self promotion, so in a sense I really don''t do the math... Concerning what parts have gone into the Chaparral project, within the past year I effectively destroyed the paintwork of an old 1:18th scale GMP 1967 Penske Camaro and subsequently cloned this and that from it before sending along the shattered remains to a friend. For long I didn't have a single four barrel intake to mate to the off the shelf ACME/GMP replacement Chevrolet small block Trans-Am 302 engine, so this spurred my interest, while recently a 1:18 GT 40 Mirage missing a lexan headlamp cover and loose/out of the box was picked up for the near nothing price of $9.99 at a local hobby shop as a trade-in. Combing this with news of the Replicarz Chaparral Camaro to be and to register that their effort would have no opening panels, scant chassis detail, no engine, etc., and the reader will begin to understand how things start to come into focus. In a sense, nothing is ever going to be cheaper looking out into the future, so why not see this or that project through however long it might take? The picture seen above communicates what I isolated and incorporated into the engine build so to speak, these being the best rendered items I could find across tools... Definitely I'm underwhelmed by where the 1:18th diecast/resin cast automotive hobby is going; i.e. continually rehabbed old tools showing their age, diminishing detail, spotty build quality, and the pressure of ever increasing prices. The new generations of resin models sans opening panels can sometimes be good, but if a topic has been done before and the rudiments of a project exist to be tapped consistent with turning up something better, how can one cheer the arrival of $239.95 sealed rendition of anything? Although I'm super pokey and slow in relation to what I do and what I accomplish, at this point I don't think (for example) that some injection molded plastic roll cage is strictly going to be a match for something done in hand bent plastic tube with a brass wire core. For application, I believe I can amp up the content consistent with affording myself what the market won't. Oh - and a great 1:18th GMP based late Trans-Am Camaro you have there J.F.! I'd seen it lurking in this and that photo of your large collection, and can't help but marvel at how deftly accomplished it appears. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

That looks very good and certainly sound. Sox & Martin will have expressed interest at the very least I'm sure! I'm thinking of picking up a white Chevrolet angle back before it vanishes from store shelves, but I fear the model plus a certain Chaparral Camaro will wipe out display case space remaining, with the result being my having to live outside - sigh... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, I don't know if it would help you, but a favorite and non-obvious hobby accessory for 1:18th scale aluminum wheels to reach for would be something called the Pegasus 23 inch Stepped Aluminum Sleeves sold as a pack of four with tiny sidewall tires intended for use on 1:25th lowrider topics. If you find suitable ARE CP-200/'Daisy mags' wheel centers, chop up and adjust the aforementioned aluminum parts to come up with whatever depth and width of wheel you desire. I've attached a picture of a Welly Trans-Am BOSS 302 with modified ERTL wheels with just plastic GMP outer lips to communicate what can be done. Also, I've seen a resin transkit for the wheels in particular for the topic you've taken on, although they represent something old and acknowledged as out of production and stock. For application it might be possible to find that which you require, although I don't have any solid leads to afford you to my regret. Good luck! Mike K./Swede70

Looking nice and making good progress. Mike K./Swede70

Some other work then... Seen above, the cast-in drip rail trim and weather sealing has been filed off and flattened as necessary. Further, I found that the side window openings seemed a bit chopped and lower than what I'd desire, hence each side was filed up to effectively open the greenhouse to a modest degree. The exterior door handles have been ground flat and replaced with '72 Welly Pontiac Trans Am Firebird items, while in some photos one will see a '68 Lane Firebird exterior side view mirror in a pretty standard spec. Even without flares the model doesn't appear horrible. Nothing epic, but the cast-in chassis identification has been sanded out, while the cast-in fuel tank has been removed, plugged, and replaced with a fabricated fuel cell housing. Lastly, the white rectangular plugs disguise where side pipes might otherwise be mounted on this ancient tool. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Moving along then... The old ERTL '70 Camaro is usually found as a Z/28 with the early season rear lip spoiler in place. Such won't do on this model as the '70 season gathered pace, hence a less common Pro Stock release had to be purchased to come up with the rudimentary D80 high spoiler that was homologated and fitted later. Trouble is encountered given the ends of the spoiler are too pronounced and rounded, while the end caps aren't fully finished and had to be supplemented for the addition of plastic, Microballoons filler and light putty work. Happily the refueling port cut into the trunk wasn't ghastly difficult to do, requiring only that I file down a small section at a slight angle without further complication. Generally the effort is bearing fruit. Thanks... What's needed then... ...sort of a starting point in terms of the rear spoiler largely unmodified at this juncture. Notice the missing end cap profile along the bottom sides... ...looking happier for reasoned additions. I shouldn't have carved out the deck lid pin retention cut outs straight down as I did and will need to fill in the bottoms of each to create access holes instead, but still - not terrible in sum. Notice the refueling cut out taking form on center section of the spoiler along the bottom... ...looking better still for further shape refinement, some plug work, as well as filing consistent with affording space for the refueling point. Lastly, the surface profile of the rear bumper on this tool is pretty lumpy, so I've sanded out what I could to even things up. Notice too that the tiny overriders otherwise a feature of the back of any ERTL second generation Camaro were removed at the same time. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

This would be some stuff done underhood in recent days, Shown is the updated ACME/GMP engine wearing resin Hwy. 61 '69 Camaro Z/28 finned valve covers, as well as a GMP '67 Penske Camaro single 4BBL intake. Notice too the angled radiator installation plus oil cooler, most of which is either modified GMP Trans-Am Camaro stuff or material fabricated from sheet plastic sized to suit. Just cleaning up the radiator support and perforating such was a challenge given the chassis plastic employed on this old ERTL tool is very soft and is hard to work. Thanks... The topic seen at Laguna Seca '70 and photographed by Karl Ludvigsen. I had to do the aforementioned radiator installation, come up with the fresh air seal and AC air filter lid, as well as reposition the alternator versus how the ACME/GMP engine is configured as-delivered. Compressing much effort, this is how things are looking. Partial upper control arms may be spied, while the master cylinder and power booster are GMP Trans-Am Camaro stuff again. The cast-in battery and windshield wiper fluid bottle have been cut off and hence vanish from the scene for reasoned application. Note that stripping the paint off of the ACME/GMP engine takes determination, although it can be done. I had no confidence that I could simply paint over all that ORANGE finish, hence it HAD to come off! On a happy note, but for some installation pegs that required grinding down as well as pretty modest firewall sanding, the engine plus headers pretty much drops in. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Intent on creating a coherent grid of factory-backed 1:18th SCCA Trans-Am entries even as my focus shifts from project to project, this would constitute the beginnings of a '70 Chaparral Camaro. Replicarz intends to release a sealed resin version of the topic for $239.95 about a year from now, and needless to say - I think I'm priced out! So, that said, my aim is come up with something competitive with all opening features, fabricating (if ever so slowly) that which will be needed consistent with doing what it is I do. Expect the usual activity, followed by dead silence, followed by renewed activity... The topic in all its glory, seen at Mid-Ohio '70. I'm pondering flares, while most of the difficult parts gathering has been done; i.e. the less-common ERTL standard-nose/full front bumper shell '70 Camaro material is in hand, complete with a flat hood, doors nonperforated for exterior side mirrors, while the tall D80 rear spoiler is also mine to use with necessary modifications. Wheels will be 'my' resin Minilites, tires will be Jouef/Eagles Race/Universal Hobbies Ford GT40 Mirage Firestones, the engine, an ACME/GMP Trans-Am Chevrolet small block 302 with mods. to reproduce the spec. needed. I tend to get lost fabricating and mocking up this and that, hence nothing really changes does it? Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, A short '70 T/G Racing Jerry Titus Trans-Am Trans Am Firebird update this - albeit nothing dramatic. Some notes outlining what is seen may be found beneath each image uploaded. Thanks... ...given the removal of the honeycomb-shaped trim center cap on the stock steering wheel couldn't be achieved cleanly sans use of a lathe, I decided to employ a pair of wheels so that I could sand off the center of one example, drill the spokes, and then mate a second padded rim to what remained. It will work! ...seen above is the old '70 chassis with the new '69 ACME Firebird Pontiac 400 (nee 303 c.i.d. then) engine installed plus mods. Surely an improvement given how primitive the old ERTL tool is in this regard. ...noticed are the cleaned up and revised refueling sites drilled through the shell and plugged and depressed slightly for use of plastic rod situated in plastic tube. The fuel cap employed here is a resin clone of a Hwy. 61 '70 340 Dodge Dart piece. Only seen obliquely, a fabricated radiator support holds in position a 1:18th GMP '70 GMP radiator as well as other items. ...while here I decided to pull off the fill panels made for the headlamp buckets as well as the front indicators. Each was puttied and reshaped before being duplicated for the creation of a urethane mold. A bit cleaner then... ...and finally, the front flares integrated into the filed out front fenders. For heating the flares in hot water I was able to subtly reshape each consistent with coming up with a more balanced profile, and hence matters are better. The rear flares need further mass and shape refinement, but aren't wildly off for purposes of being a starting point. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K./Swede70

Excellent weathering technique. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Picking up on a project, I've been unhappy with the loose and floppy operation of the doors on an old 1:18th ERTL Pontiac Firebird Trans Am and tried the following to tighten their operation. One can only achieve so much for applying torque to attachment screws in excess or for doubling up washers, hence what is suggested here has value. Kept brief, I applied some thick CA glue to a plastic rod intent on evenly applying a coating of the stuff to the inside of the hole cast into the dog leg hinge as-delivered. I needed something to take up the slack in the hinge, and this seemed a low-tech way to do it. While things were still wet and setting up, I further applied many a dusting of MicroBalloon filler to lend greater substance to what was just glue at this point. I dusted from either side, trying to apply the filler from all directions so as to be consistent. After waiting for the doors/hinge castings to dry, I was pleased to discover that enough bulk had been added to the inner diameter to each hole that I couldn't fit either door into position; i.e. I'd have to employ a small round file to open up each for a selective fit. The process was slow for the stuff is hard, but then I view this as a plus given one can very deliberately creep up to what degree of tightness is desired. Something to try then if one isn't strictly availed the option of pounding down on the top of a rivet, etc. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

It's looking very good thus far. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Looks terrific! Thanks for sharing and compliments on a task well-done. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Just a light update of what's been said thus far. Try to go with a non-tinted variety of whatever nail polish remover you employ. The tint can stain a light colored surface, hence the need to go with whatever clear or modestly-tinted option (light yellow is better than medium pink for example) exists. I used to apply Marlboro decals to many a McLaren F1 topic, while it was a horror to discover that the white painted sections could be (temporarily) damaged in this fashion. As many a hypocritical parent has shouted - do what I say and not as I do! Also - be sure to have a large supply of cotton swabs on hand consistent with introducing new swabs on a quickly rotating basis before the nail polish remover evaporates away and allows material to be dumped back onto the surface to be cleaned. Turn the cotton swab consistent with drawing away the tampo print and pulling residue from the surface, while very soon indeed you'll need to toss the swab out and grab another. Straight acetone is of course 'hotter' than nail polish remover which contains only a percentage of such. Oh - and maybe consider seeking out what are termed 'makeup removers' which are sort of super cotton swabs with tighter wound cotton balls with a blunt profile on one end, and a comparatively sharp point formed on the other. All drug stores have them, while the flexibility of these becomes apparent through use. If it helps (and even if it seems to border on overkill), my own practice is to scrub down the majority of whatever tampo prints are seen with usually about 50 to 100 swabs employing nail polish remover without risking underlying paint damage for using too powerful right up front. This 'done', I've found it helps to take digital photo images of the work to reveal what has been missed. I've discovered that residue that isn't strictly visible to the eye can be turned up for taking a few images and inspecting such carefully. Having isolated what work remains to be done, I'll then pull out the 100% acetone and apply some to a buffing rag and work over the entire surface that was formally home to the tampo print to basically carry away what goo remains. Further photos are taken and inspected, another round of 100% percent acetone cleaning is done (quickly and without great pressure applied), and then things tend to come together. Good luck! Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Having secured a set of actual AutoART '69 Corvette wheels and tires, I decided to swap out the resin clone wheelcovers and Hwy. 61 tires with what is now seen. Fortunately, the wheels are zero offset, hence to trim the gray rings bonded to the AutoART wheelcovers down to half the thickness of the rim width is all that was strictly required to ensure they'd be happy on this model. The fit is tight enough across assemblies to the extent that no glue was required. The model sort of looks like a period game show giveaway at this point, although at least it's a bit different! A new ACME '65 SS396 Chevelle engine has been ordered and will be added soon. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thank you for posting these - certainly it looks to have been a nice outing. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, This would be a 'foundling' 1:18th scale Tonka/Polistil Porsche 959 that was traded in at a local automobilia store in lieu of the delivery of a svelte AutoART rendition of the same topic. In essence, this is an early unsophisticated tool of the most sophisticated automobile of the period. Yes - it does look like a generic jelly bean/aerodynamic marshmallow on wheels, although in the early 1980's it was startling and the stuff of boyhood poster art. Technology dripped off of this pathfinding near-200 mph supercar, and yet it could be driven just as a car and would vanish in a Wal-Mart parking lot today. As to this scale example, most would consider the Tonka model rubbish, and less than a cost-effective basis for a project - but it was free and constitutes a low-impact challenge. It does come with the flush/covered wheels which were not seen on the 1:1 production model, hence this is something, while in truth the proportions of the model really aren't horrible. It unscrews and/or snaps apart much like a period Burago release, while sanding down assorted body shell mold lines proved feasible enough. The door window frames are thick, but in a low-key way I'll try to get the better of it. Seen back of the shell in primer is a $16 parts car picked up recently, hence know they go for almost nothing. Thanks... ...note the early flush covers on the wheels then. ...the body scrubbed of mold lines, the wheels sanded, repainted, and lightly black-washed then. ...heavy door window frames, but not horrid. Given it isn't a shatteringly sophisticated tool or build, I think I'll just leave the wing/deck lid gap alone given it isn't all that distracting... Still looking fresh no less than 30 years after it's debut. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks so much for the video walk-through. Surprised by the absence of proper door panels, while if it helps the two steering wheel and instrument panel options aren't really trim level related, but rather how the '74 and later cars were typically outfitted; i.e. faux wood instrument surround trim as well as the four spoke steering wheel. Certainly it's neat to see the aftermarket come through with one engine option, while at some point I suspect another firm will render good interior panels to introduce into the build. I had a '72 and later a '74, hence it was a thrill to see a modern manufacturer step up to the topic given it's dear to me. My 1:18th diecast garage has three examples within it. Again, my thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Being 'on the spectrum' with regards to Asperger's Syndrome can in a sense be put to good use in relation to scale modeling surely. An unusually intense capacity to focus is often required to solve many a problem or issue, while many on this board can light the way towards the acquisition of knowledge and development of skills base consistent with achieving very fair results. Should you attend a scale model show or partake of a club event, you'd quickly pick up on the reality of many other builders and collectors evidencing what others might see as quirks or mild peculiarities of behavior. What matters is that we are effective in our respective realms, that we husband our resources and give all we may in relation to that which we do well. Some aspects of our persons may not be fundamentally readjusted or refined to the degree we'd like, but this said, there is much to be said for making the very best of circumstance and to seek fellowship with others on different but largely parallel paths. Welcome to the board... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Not of huge shattering interest, nevertheless some work has been performed on the #77 Challenger to the extent of better fitting the roll cage A-pillar bars and blending them to mesh well with the dashboard ends situated just beneath. The old dash was ruined for misjudging where to file the ends to make way for the bars passing atop each, hence a replacement was sought with the bottom half trimmed off as per the actual race car; i.e. the standard pad visible across the top was retained, while the heavy stock structure beneath isn't. Seen too are new interior panels, with the driver's side cut out to accommodate a roll cage side bar as shown. A literal challenge it is/was to ensure everything rests level, symmetrical, and tight overall. The seat mount has received work, while in relation to the suspension I hope/intend to reproduce the very unique locating links/design employed on the rear in particular. Slightly revised GMP Trans-Am Camaro tires might be added if the markings on the new Donohue and Yunick releases are judged superior and are of course sold separately. Will I ever paint anything I fabricate? Stay tuned for the next belated installment to learn more! Mike K./Swede70

It's possible that scale air duct hose employed by some on 1:25th scale NASCAR topics might work. I have two sizes from a firm identified as Scale Model Speedway (200 Gilmore Ct., Owenboro, KY 42301), while the 1.5" Duct Hose product they produce or produced might be worth considering. Purchased only a thousand years ago by me, it seems good. Beyond this I haven't seen or found what you describe for looking avidly, although I hope others visiting this thread will illuminate a source. Just in passing, the old Jo-Han Trans-Am Javelins had these as cast parts - terrific then for Jo-Han Trans-Am Javelins and little else! Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, For well-reasoned and well-informed feedback received (thanks Harry Q.!), I opted to pull the bars back of the main roll cage hoop and redid such consistent with ensuring they appear as two uninterrupted tubes cutting through clear to the trunk floor. I worried that I'd tear chunks out of the main hoop for removing the elements glued to it, but happily they came off without issue and were in part recycled to see what is on view here. That the cage comes out as one piece and isn't (yet) glued to the chassis certainly helps matters. The elements in the trunk were pulled and revised a bit for length and for the angle each was set, hence these are a touch better too. When stuff is scratch built and errors are made, corrections aren't typically life-threatening as long as supplies hold out! Like the usual 1:25th plastic kit fare seen elsewhere across this message board, the floors are rendered quite thick and factor against everything looking spot-on below the beltline of this modified 1:18th scale diecast. Also uploaded is small series of images relating how a pair of bars on bottom of the cage terminating towards the rear of each respective front footwell are slightly upturned and tucked in. I couldn't do this will my usual hollow plastic tubing with brass wire fed within, but rather performed the bend twice over with solid rod stock heated over an open flame. More work to come then. Thanks for reviewing this project update... Mike K./Swede70

Hello... Not much to be seen here (I know), but some roll cage tubes/members now sprout from the trunk area to tie in to the main hoop looking forward. I was confident that the bars coming off the back of the aforementioned main hoop were appropriately spaced, accepted that they splayed out somewhat heading rearward, although the fuel cell dimensions didn't strictly allow everything to match heading further downward. Sort of a subtle cheat then for fit and alignment, but not looking horrible. Given only a sliver of the contents of the trunk might be seen for opening the panel, most irregularities noticed here will blend and be forgiven! Moving along, a repair has been made to the rear axle end to allowing fitting of the relatively good wheel/tire assemblies on all four corners. I intend to add further brake detail to each hub, while separate lug detail likewise stands to be added. Thanks for skimming this update... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Seen - or perhaps not - would be my efforts to discreetly plug and fill in the floor pan to erase the presence of detail in the form of cast-in floor mats, upraised pegs to locate the stock front seats, as well as see to various perforations along the transmission/driveshaft tunnel of the Titus/Ward '69 Daytona class-winning '68 Firebird. A clunky clone of a Dremel which I have in my tool inventory with a thoroughly useless speed control nevertheless is quite good at burning plastic, hence it was used to roughly remove the mats which were more precisely cleaned up with metal files, sanding stick work, and much application. The shifter tower hole was plugged with material from an identical Lane interior floor to save a bit of work and time. Plastic rod stock helped seal most everything else, although the outboard seat belt mounting points still require filling and blending. No putty or fill work is witnessed - yet! Kind thanks for your skimming this update... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... This would be the revised '69 Daytona 24 HR class-winning Titus/Ward Firebird chassis taking shape, with a scratch built roll cage as well as a ACME/GMP-tool small block Chevrolet dressed as something Al Bartz would have prepared. Not complete this, but pushed far along nevertheless and hence something to share. Thanks for reviewing this thread update. Mike K./Swede70