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swede70

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  1. Just a brief update this. Seen is the second attempt at a front spoiler, looking tighter where the two elements meet, while the ends are a bit fatter and feature a radius around the top corners. The contemporary towing hook done as a photo etched part visible in earlier photos had to go, while for examining the installation of the same it seemed to be glued in place without strictly connecting to anything associated with the bumper or grille. Given this, I tied a length of fishing line around it and pulled it off with one quick jerk; i.e. success! Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  2. Oh - and if it helps to reproduce what I'm trying here, the rear tires are from a 1:18th Action NASCAR diecast model likely from about 2000. Only acetone proven strong enough to remove the tire markings, while a real risk of frying the vinyl used to make these is run for working too slowly, too aggressively - or both. Like everything NASCAR and diecast, shop carefully and you shouldn't have to spend much at all to gather one up. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  3. Oh - no trouble. The Replicarz Trans-Am Javelins were promised for a long time, and much-delayed. Replicarz has them showcased on their website, although other outlets as well as the usual suspects on eBay similarly have them. No opening panels - just a huge blob of resin, although a lot of care has gone into the paint work in particular. Know that most of it is pretty good. Should you run into messages indicating that the release is sold out at different vendors, I'd suggest going back to Replicarz and purchasing there given they'd be sitting on the largest quantities having commissioned these. A George Follmer '72-season Championship car was released at the same moment (this past Thanksgiving '19 then), while a sister car in the form of the Roy Woods '72 ride was recently cancelled owing to poor demand. Expect to pay $200-$229.95 depending on holiday coupons and applicable discounts if such can be had. - I wouldn't be surprised if a small series of stock '71-'74 releases are eventually done from the tool given what the chassis looks like and given the body shell is about identical but for the wheel arch contour. We could wait forever for an old-school all opening panels Javelin but are very unlikely to ever get one, while here would be the newfangled and admittedly pricey sealed option that will likely only become more expensive as time passes. On this basis, if one has an interest plus resources to gather one or two up, I'd suggest acting more or less soon. - I'm just making discreet changes given enhancing little things on 1:18th prefinished models is more my speed given my iffy capacity to focus on anything for long. Seen below are fabricated front spoiler element overlays given they should either be clear Lexan or painted red versus red-tinted Lexan. Decals are Fred Cady waterslide and happily are pretty good for size. I miscalculated the gap between the elements and will have to make these again , although generally I got about 90% there for not overlapping the mounting system either atop the elements while still having material wrap around the ends. It's all held in with white craft glue, hence nothing hot or damaging was employed to affix what's seen. Looking at my last photo, notice the small Sears DieHard battery decal (race version with the checkered flag then) set atop the accessory decal stack forward of the front wheel arch. And finally, the latter day vintage racing accessory rear view mirrors, discreet as they are, have been carefully removed with the exterior rear view mirror mount being touched in with Tamiya acrylic Blue X-4. My fear of this sealed resin topic is lessening as I'm registering a few successes, while soon the wheels will be final finished and incorporated into what is seen. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  4. Thanks... Now seen with the addition of brass lugs and nuts, with chrome bathroom fixture washers used as brake discs. Sounding crude, but the washers are cleanly plated on both sides and aren't crudely stamped out like the typical corner hardware store fare. Also, given these wheels will be mounted on the as-delivered metal axles, I've mounted the pegs on the back of each front wheel at a slight angle to suggest negative camber and toe-out. The Replicarz wheels don't roll, hence nothing is really being given away here for doing things in such a fashion. I might also cheat and just drill the holes for the metal axle in the rear in an offset fashion for I want to increase the ride height out back. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  5. It's really beautiful with intelligent upgrades subtly worked in and fine finish choices incorporated throughout. Thanks so much for sharing... Mike K./Swede70
  6. Greetings and thanks for the kind input and research help besides... Although a little tedious, here would be some effort to shore up the '68 RKE/JRT Javelin Trans-Am project so that it might match the '69 iteration for chassis detail up front and underhood. Barely discernible on the '69 situated forward, the tunnel ram has been filed down between the twin stacks of inlet runners to open things up, while the carburetors have been cut apart from each other (no big issue this) and better positioned besides. Both models are Frankenstein specials for utilizing spares sourced from wherever, with many a shade and/or curious color plastic witnessed across each project. Oh - I did add some material to flesh out the fenders of the '69 effort and continue to struggle to square away the end cap trim to my satisfaction. I'm 'not there' yet, while blending everything and coming back to rescribe the end caps at the proper length and depth will be a pain. Thanks for your review of this dual project update... Mike K./Swede70
  7. Greetings... Sort of heart-stopping for being the $200-$229.95 sealed resin topic most wouldn't dare modify, here would be some initial project lay ups consistent with tossing caution aside and attacking one nevertheless. Four enormous screws hold the resin chassis to the resin body, while I'm told the wheel/tires/axles simply rest in place and can be pulled out for tugging each assembly straight up. With this in mind, seen below is a combination of parts and accessories consistent with revising things. Exchanging note with others online, the impression gleaned concerning the new Replicarz effort is that the Minilites they tooled are a bit shallow, while the diameter of the front wheels is noticeably smaller than what is fitted out back. Further, the fairly modern powder coated finish applied to the wheels isn't quite desired, while corporate insistence on promoting the brand resulted in very contemporary for font style tire identification witnessed on the sidewalls. Something has to be done I tell you! Legende Miniatures out of France was tapped for the resin Minilites seen, with the cast-in wheel hub detail ground off, the outer wheel lip sanded to remove an unwanted raised contour given I desire a nice uniform taper across said surface. The hub guides are aluminum tube, the front tires ancient 1:18th ERTL '70 1/2 Firebird Trans Am issue, while the rear tires are from a presently unidentified NASCAR release I'll try to clarify for communicating with those who'd know such things. The non-tilted tire markings are sourced from IndyCals and really impress for being clear and bright, while they betray little visible carrier film even sans application of a semi-gloss clear to disguise matters. The historical record relates that about halfway through the '70 season (and looking forward into the next) that Goodyear Super Modified tires were determined to be best for the front, while ungainly and rather tall of profile NASCAR tires worked best on the rear. Consistent with this knowledge, the somewhat odd look of the tires I've reached for can be appreciated. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  8. Greetings, Going back briefly to the '68 RKE/JRT Javelin, it was decided to reproduce the inner fender/wing project work on the '69 for cutting off the promo-style round wheel arch detail. Happily the cutting of said arch detail can be achieved without running great risk, hence no great skill is required. Further, the '69 Javelin interior has been 'filleted' to the extent of trimming off the faintly detailed interior side panels so that they might be mated to the unfinished/bare race interior floor otherwise sporting '70-specific trim which in this instance is undesired. When finally wrapped up, these may be glued in place or simply taped into position (as seen below) given there isn't anything truly structural about what they lend to these builds. Given masking the floor off from the cast-in interior side panels to reflect alternating finishes, it's something of a gift to split these items apart. Some fill panel work will be required two times over to complete the profile of each side relative to the other panel work present, although in essence it's clean. The driveshaft and shifter are or will be Revell '69 Camaro items. And just in passing, the cut outs seen along the top of the firewall on this '68 iteration are for the fresh air system worked out by Ronnie Kaplan when the cross ram twin four barrel intake came into use. ...while here would be the '69 interior side panels. A slight cut will be made to distinguish the door panel from the rear passengers compartment interior panel trim, while note that the armrest detail (faint though it was) has been ground out in anticipation of the fabrication and insertion of additional fill panels consistent with what was run in-period. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  9. Thanks - I have kits and/or incomplete kit targets to seek out. In particular, I really appreciate the steadying influence for kind thoughts expressed and good will evidenced. The topics I choose tend to be peculiar, but as a positive the chance is afforded to make them my own, ably assisted by those with greater knowledge and experience than I can bring to bear upon matters. Although often hard pressed to afford value in turn, it would leave me appalled to come back to a thread and notice anything that could be construed as snark if you will penned by my own hand. While all are not demonstrably capable of such, we each must try to model what is right and dignified about that which we hold dear. Again - know that I appreciate was has been availed to me past and present. I value the scene and the friendships formed here very much... Mike K./Swede70
  10. Thanks for the kind interest... Indeed the struggle to clarify the identity of American Motor's products and product range continues, while more than few have fallen victim to those who would insensitively modify them - or gasp - toss many a good subassembly aside to fit an example with LS power to 'make a real car of it'. Whatever else I might be, I would never do such a thing... Here in SE Michigan happily we have a pretty vibrant AMC scene with the old headquarters as well as the later American Center in nearby Southfield, MI. featuring as local landmarks. Each fall a AMC-themed gathering known as the Greenmead show is hosted by a local marque club, while Facebook AMC groups as well as Vintage SCCA Trans-Am groups flesh out my intake of scenes to tap outside of independent application to inform what I attempt in-scale. If matters are proceeding swimmingly, on occasion contact might be established with those with some relation to the actual topic; i.e people involved in-period, owners past and present, as well as restoration and service personnel of surviving vehicles. While the actual automobiles are scarce, networking with those so-aligned and intrigued is better than it was in the past. Digital archive access in particular has never been so wide, while this teamed to material collection consistent with answering questions that are raised helps to tie in much that otherwise was suspended in air in a research sense. With all said and done, projects such as these I'd typically avoid can be brought into focus and labored upon with reasoned hope of coming up with something reasonably sound bordering on accurate for spec. and finishes employed. Thanks... - Seen below will be some additional inner fender/inner wing work consistent with adding a top layer to front subframe rails affixed as they are to the base of my SC/Rambler panels. The first photo telegraphs how matters appear from the top apart and away from the model, the second image depicts how the bottom ledge was trimmed close to shape of the inside of each suspension turret, while the third and final image relates how things appear when assembled. Surely it's better versus looking into the half-open frame rails which suggested hack work. And lastly, an adjustment has been made to the fill panel atop the grille mating with the radiator support so that it'll not strictly dip where it meets the support proper. Thanks for reviewing this project update... Mike K./Swede70
  11. Thanks for your effort and insight shared on my behalf. Some period shots of the car reveal quite a bit of oil residue spread about under hood, while with a strictly sealed system incorporating a vent system with a stand alone 'puke tank' as was (almost) standard in the series, I doubt this would have been an issue. I'll have to cut apart my intake consistent with clearing space between and beneath the intake runners and likely scratch build flanges, but if the design of the breathers is distinct enough and chrome-plated besides, then maybe it's worth the time and trouble to reproduce the detail. I appreciate the help, while again it seems how it is I write draws in the trolls... Mike K./Swede70
  12. Greetings and thanks for the interest expressed in questions posed in the past... Isolating assemblies and subassemblies for a project, does anyone recognize the oil breathers in use on this particular topic, and do they exist on a tool I can reach for? I'm thinking that they might be something done by Mickey Thompson, and that some drag racing or land speed record car in 1:25th would offer up such. My knowledge of period speed equipment is limited, hence the guiding influence of others is sought! O.K. - look not so much at the valve covers or near the water inlet for the breathers, but rather atop the intake across the lifter valley to see two of the breathers of which I speak. Whaddya think? The image was captured by Karl Ludvigsen at Bridgehampton, NY in '69, the topic a same-year RKE/JRT Trans-Am Javelin again... Kind thanks for reading this post... Mike K./Swede70
  13. Sorry - almost overkill this... After a bit of trimming near the firewall then. I'll try to do the frame rail overlays/plugs next to help clean things up. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  14. Thanks for the kind comments and notice... Seen are some initial steps to transplant in Jo-Han SC/Rambler inner wings/fenders. I've failed at this before for cutting things too short, but here I've opted to save as much length from the Rambler parts even to the point of blending where both the radiator support and firewall connect with the panels to be recycled. Notice too I've saved material which stretches forward of the radiator support to better suggest fender stamping detail and to basically have something that will hook positively into place. Work to flesh out and seal the front subframe rails constitutes work to come. Moving along, I'm thinking of doing away with the Rambler hood hinge pockets given they serve no constructive purpose, although it was neat to notice that I could make everything hang together in-place without glue on what I'll term my engineering hack. The last image depicts the '69 sans any work to really integrate the new additions to the firewall profile proper, hence nothing really sits down as it ought. Thanks... ...what wiring harness detail I could remove I did, while the battery mount was cut off entire and matters cleaned up to the degree I could. Latitude exists to file down the tops and reshape them consistent with ensuring the hood fits level and well. ...note the suspension turrets align with the center of each wheel arch. ...clean from below too, without massive work demanded to clean things up underneath each fender top. Yes - I soon reshaped the right suspension turret wall seen forward so that it would match the one on the left... ...with a new seal forward of the radiator support, and the inner fenders/wings quickly set in place sans fine fit work - hence it sticks up in the back. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  15. Thanks everyone for looking in and contributing to a solution to what I hope to achieve. I really appreciate it and will be diligent in following up leads availed here. Again - thank you... Mike K./Swede70
  16. Greetings, Pondering how to do what would be exceedingly thin pin stripes bordering the alternating red/white/blue livery seen on '68 and '68 Ronnie Kaplan Engineering Trans-Am Javelins, has anyone tried color-keyed fishing line to reproduce something like this? I simply need a straight line not quite on the border of each colored element, while perhaps this is the best way to get there? Efforts to turn up decal sheets with straight pinstripes of various widths for tapping Japanese sources almost got me what was required, but now I'm thinking another path will need to be explored... Look closely at the photo and one can make out the blue pinstripe just before the red painted rear third of the car comes into view. Were we looking at the transition to the front third in blue, a pinstripe would be seen again, this time in red. Advice or ideas how to lay down or control such would be appreciated. Kind thanks for reading this post.... Mike K./Swede70
  17. Greetings and thanks for the kind notice... Some indication of how I'll do the '69-specific rear flares. Traced four times over per-side, I'll carve out the resultant pucks from below to match the wheel opening contour, then sculpt the exterior profile before matching the side profile shape to the body itself. Seen is the remains of a junked Flintstone flared '70 Penske Javelin shell which will be carved out to accommodate whatever I work up. If I fail in my efforts, the folly of my attempt will be restricted to what is seen versus risking my evolving work. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  18. In the realm of the SC/Rambler, what would you need? I tend to go after the chassis - especially the rear suspension entire, etc. I'll 'double up' on the rear shock mounts to do a staggered installation on Javelin race projects, etc., while the rare funny car releases have a Model 20 rear end that can be substituted in versus the Dana iteration to help things again. In a manner of speaking, I'm trying to keep the model as 'Jo-Han' specific as possible in terms of tools and parts reached for. Oh - and the SC/Rambler cylinder heads are quite a bit better than the usual incorrect earlier Jo-Han AMC V8 issue even if the valve covers were updated and look the business... On another message board I responded to an SC/Rambler inquiry and sent along most of my Rambler-specific spares, while these days no Jo-Han parts or subassemblies however bad are strictly thrown away. At present I'm worked with glue burned and enamel paint-encrusted junk to square away what will emerge as reasoned inner fender/suspension turret detail better than the usual Rebel Machine implant - at least from the topside. I want something I can reproduce and spread across all my intended '68-'72 Trans-Am Javelin builds that isn't too reliant on rare spares. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  19. ...and just a indication of the engine and underhood work intended to be performed, Seen is an AMT Gremlin Pro Stock tunnel ram with difficult to discern 3D-printed Holley 4500 carburetors, cut out front wheel arch shrouds, and a Jo-Han SC/Rambler shell waiting to go under the knife to help matters along. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  20. Greetings, Needing a '69 RKE/JRT hood to clear the twin Holley 4500's beneath the blister, I was forced to make my own. Seen is a five-panel assemblage consistent with creating what was needed. It will have to be shrunk a bit for sanding, but better this versus having to add material. Notice too that the project is up on wheels. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  21. Greetings, Just some further fabrication of the rear wheel arch resin dams, with care taken to keep all the joins and glue on the outside. I hope the fabrication of the walls for these proves the most tedious aspect of creating what I want. The bottom borders for the front wheel arches stands to be done next. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  22. Thanks for the kind input... Oh goodness - I too have Audi Fox tales to tell, but rather in the iteration of the later Brazilian-made VW Fox which came from the same '72-'73 Audi 80 gene pool. Such a fragile front suspension with service items having to be replaced with mind bending regularity; i.e. strut bearings, brake pads, CV joints, etc. Heavy steering, although it shifted nicely given the atypical north to south engine and transaxle installation. I had two, while the styling (such as it was) suggested a self-propelled collapsible trailer that might go forwards or backwards at a moment's notice much like an armored car. Wildlife stood no chance against that profile either; i.e. anything unfortunate enough to be in my path would soon be rendered dead. I guess I was intent on having almost no vehicular fun for a period of years given I put 200K on each in succession. Oh - and did I mention the time resident skateboarders caved in the hood of my first example given it appeared to be a fetching hard-edged raised platform to slide across? True story this... And just on a related point, along with typing in 'Audi 80' as a diecast search term (excepting maybe a 1:43rd dealer promo from Schuco - perhaps?), I've found that some semi-promotional pieces can be turned up for chasing down items from VW do Brasil. Even just typing in 'VW diecast Brazil' will unearth some fun oddities otherwise lost within the ocean of eBay listings harboring such, while as can be seen, I now have my VW Fox shrine to worship at. This and repeated viewing of the film 'Blame it on Rio' which is aswim with Brazilian-made VW's is the secret of my enviably even temperament. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  23. Excellent. The closest I came to experiencing a CS was to test drive a car that was listed for sale locally some years back. It was a '73 Bavaria in Ceylon Gold with a 4-speed, lost in you will in the back lot of a new car dealership. I remember driving in traffic and being side-by-side with other people driving contemporary iterations of the marque and wondering why on earth didn't they take notice of this rare car! Oh, if only I owned a Zeppelin hanger to buy and safeguard all of the on-edge and too frequently unloved old BMW's I've seen. How can one fall out of love with such, although frequently restoration costs exceed value, effectively undercutting the prospect of doing as much as we'd wish. It's nice to read that a Bavaria will be saved, while note that the Fjord Blue model seen in the stacks is a sealed resin 1:18 Best of Show (BoS) release and about the only thing going if one much have such. They've released a '68 2500 sedan in this hue as well as Ceylon Gold, while in time we'll likely get visually indistinguishable 2800's in different colors. I got this example as something bouncing around Hong Kong likely as an early sample for a bit less than $100 w/$24.95 shipping, although they go for more now. Everything is just so nicely detailed on the older BMW's; i.e. remove this or that and one has a piece of mechanical artwork ready to inspect. I remember jewel-like four-piston front calipers, a carefully laid out wiring harness underhood, plastic caps on the back of machine screws also found underhood lest one catch a wrist on such, etc. A festival of mechanical noises too with whirling this, humming that. Fun too to make out all the suppliers involved given their identities weren't strictly played down looking across the car; i.e. Bosch, VDO, Hirsh, Blaupunkt, BOGE, etc. Even the owner's manual was an experience in itself; i.e. the assumption was that you'd service it as-new and effectively own it forevermore. It was just wonderful. The half-hearted effort to federalize my '02 was charming in itself. Front indicators not visible from the straight on? No problem - we'll bulge out the indicators and add internal reflectors mounted just-so. The controls and gauges bore the original German abbreviations for their functions, while consistent with most foreign cars of the period, to operate one was to literally absorb the values and sensibilities of not only the exterior trappings of the make in terms of styling, but to literally live the accretion of judgments and decisions that culminated in automobile one was operating given they couldn't be hidden. Gosh - it was anything but a thrice-boiled world car rendered anonymous for purposes of marketing it anywhere. I miss it dearly, and hope I might acquire another given it was really so nice. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  24. Greetings, A thread scraped from the bottom of the sea this - but a new development! I'd wanted to gather another Jimmy Flintstone flared resin shell of the '70 Penske Trans-Am Javelin harboring the intent of backdating an example to create a matching '69 Ronnie Kaplan/Javelin Racing Team entry parallel to my '68 effort. Happily I was able to purchase a $15 shell in recent days, and seen are a few photos consistent with telegraphing modest work performed to come up with the visual rudiments of the thing. Bubble flares would be needed for the back, while the hood bubble would likewise need to be fabricated from scratch. Nevertheless, not hateful as the basis of something: ...the '69 postcard image of a RKE/JRT team car looking into the new season. Soon the flush headlamp fill panels would be disallowed and vanish from the racers. ...seen is the '70 Flintstone shell with new '69 AMX front fender end caps, '71 Trans-Am Javelin headlamp fill panels, a '69 annual kit bumper/grille surround/grille assembly, with further work hidden towards the back. The interior is just a stock '69 annual release part - identifiable from a '68 for having headrests. Some dimensional weirdness is noticeable around the trim end caps, although I hope I can bring the irregularities discerned under control. Mostly the shell is about those nice front flares as well as the discreet and nicely captured panel separation detail seen atop each fender toward the base of the windscreen. For a '69-season project, the rear quarter panels will need work. Hey, it's just me forcing my imperative upon an otherwise fine resin casting intended to create a terrific '70-season rendition. ...not bad at all in profile. The rear quarter panel end cap trim has been carved out to allow fitment of a '69 AMX tail light cluster which itself has been cut free of the '69 annual kit issue bumper given it must be painted body color. Thankfully the 'Javelin' script tail light insert has recently been reproduced, otherwise I'd be toast in this regard. Doing the hood bubble to accommodate the twin Holley Dominator installation will be tedious, but hopefully rewarding. I'm happy to have many photos of it to guide future efforts. Not super obvious for work performed here, but the flared '70 Penske Trans-Am resin shell done by Jimmy Flintstone features the Donohue ducktail spoiler cast as one with the bodyshell, unlike the period kit issue where said spoiler was done as a separate part. For 99% of humanity this would be great, but here it had to be cut out, a new deck lid substituted in, and the quarter panel end caps reshaped to suggest nothing is amiss topside. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  25. Thanks Randy C. for your reply (while I'm trying to economize bandwidth for not hitting 'reply' and copying content mind you)... The old Burago BMW's reflect a longstanding interest I have in BMW E9 and E10 'Neu Klasse' automobiles, better known to all as early CS's and the beloved '02 range. I had a '74 2002 and loved it dearly, while a CS coupe was always an aspirational thing. Seen is a small stack of BMW models, mostly picked up second hand for discovering misidentified online auctions that permitted me to obtain them for somewhat less than list. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
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