swede70

Neat project; i.e. I'll be looking on with interest... Mike K./Swede70

Neat project focus - thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the understanding and the kind words... A beautifully-prepared GT 1 racer your friend had and certainly a neat experience to be involved with the effort that must have been. I'm somewhat close to Waterford Hills, MI. as road racing venues go, although I've never been directly involved with a team. Like others I suppose I read the Van Valkenburgh/Donohue racing autobiography The Unfair Advantage and quite suddenly that was the standard; i.e. ignore everyone and simply work out the best thing going with a formula and it should perform... - Given this was going to be a pricey model, I ended up shuffling a few things onto eBay to protect the budget, while for working at an area automobilia store a day a week helped on the price front. Most of the parts gathered weren't hugely expensive, although it would be silly to suggest that such don't add up when honestly tallied. If this wasn't the only 1:18th Trans-Am Javelin on the market, it likely would have been skipped. As things stand, on this board subpage one will find a 1:18th Chaparral Camaro thread evolving sort of as a reply to the Repilcarz announcement that a sealed resin version is coming. I wouldn't be surprised if the announced price of $239.95 doesn't creep further upward, and frankly I can't justify a purchase if I can come up with a feature-laden alternative even if it too would be expensive if itemized in detail. Thanks... - Oh - and now a few photos of my Javelin with the newly-refinished original wheels and tires. Further down one will find some information which will guide my efforts to create alternative stuff to substitute in when it's wholly justifiable to do so. Dimensions helpful to understand just what I'll work up to slid in off the model are as follows: Axle diameter: 2.7 mm Approximate axle width: 85 mm Track front and rear: 150 mm Track from inside tire sidewall-to-sidewall : Front/69 mm & Rear/70 mm Width of cast-in resin pedestal-to-pedestal inside the shell itself: 65 mm - Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Oh - and I have a friend who will inquire about my project progress to the effect: "...is what you did obvious, or is it something invisible that just looks like how the model ought to have been finished from the start?" He might also say: "...so, you've taken a $70 model, and now it's worth $30?" Such is my plight then... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind continued interest... Sort of a test run as-described above, seen are the refinished original wheels and tires. Controversy surrounds the appearance of the '71 Penske Javelin wheels, with early shots and some mid-season photos suggesting bare mag. alloy, while later shots may be reasonably interpreted as being either white or light gray. Light levels, contrasting the tone of the wheels to the tone of the light gray-painted interior (which itself can appear white), etc. seems to muddle things further for no one photo clears matters up. Odd too given the '72-season spec. looks consistently white and no one questions that! For starters I've tried my best recipe for Minilite magnesium alloy which is Testor's Model Master Stainless Steel Buffing (a now-deleted product range - act quick) with a light overcoat of Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear to afford a light surface dazzle. I had a 1:1 period set for a '74 BMW 2002 I owned that was sent to an area media blaster, and for trying every possible combination one might attempt for scale projects, what is presented below was the clear winner. Moving along, the sidewall markings only shift for use of 100% acetone which threatens to turn the vinyl tires to goo at any moment, while the hub guides were masked off with coils of Tamiya hobby tape first formed over round stock of about the same diameter; i.e. by design, they fit tight. Water heated just short of boiling was required to render the tires pliable enough to remove to facilitate the refinish of the wheels. Oh, and if it need be said, tire decals are the same IndyCals markings as tried out on the replacement tires seen further up this thread. Whew - thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, For some application and the removal of four machine screws, the chassis come off clean and the axles lift straight up and out. Worries that the brake discs and calipers would be glued fast were misplaced given they slid right off of the wheels and onto the axles. Notice too that the new wheels and tires seemingly drop right on without clearance issues, while the chassis can be painted, again without huge risk entailed. I'll likely refinish the stock wheels as practice to final finish the new set with new axles entire. I suspect I'll leave the interior alone given removal of the glue and prying this and that to break it apart probably doesn't merit the risk run. Consistent with protecting everything, the model was handled only with gloves, while as-seen it's been set down on a thin white plastic trash bag spread out atop a bathroom towel folded just-so lest the paint, sheet acetate glass or photo-etched parts pick up damage. One must be careful! Thanks... ...and although I cannot guess if anyone 'in corporate' is aware of what I do here, some stories trickle back in relation to how matters are researched prior to tooling anything. What is thought very good indeed by them quite often isn't standard setting upon reflection and for pouring over period materials in particular. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Seen earlier today. I didn't have huge expectations, felt it would under perform, but also I made a point of not taking notes to tear it down later. Given the bundle of plot points the people involved had to work with going in and all the hot criticism heard about troubles in-production, I think J.J. Abrams did a very good job. I was happy to note that the cutting style wasn't as rapid as many action pictures seen of late, while even if the product was market research/focus grouped to death, it was clear to me that people directly involved tried to make adjustments with regards to addressing much. Not everything is resolved, they rush, rush, rush through one scene after another, but in the main quite an accomplishment. The light saber fights had the intensity of actual fights and weren't the expected passionless and overly choreographed nothingness, the effects were as fluid as ever seen, while much material is tossed to the audience in the hope they'll recognize stuff from past films, or cluck in recognition of what thoughts and behaviors are characteristic of this person or that. It moves along under it's own speed, certainly doesn't drag, and isn't painful to take in. The production design and special effects are very clean, the humor tossed in is a nice contrast to the dour and serious tone of some of the other films of late and all the prequels, and all the money is seen on-screen; i.e. a pure big-screen spectacle in a very good way. Most of the plot is serviceable enough, the PC-content really wasn't so heavy or obvious as might be feared, while the resolution achieved with regards to the lead character's identity and sense of peace established for the journey made worked I think. The Kylo Ren story arch is likewise good, although one can tell that other characters struggle a bit for material having been left on the cutting room floor. Just go see it as a big screen special effects show and harbor modest ambition as to plot. In the right frame of mind and imagining one is fourteen years of age or so, it's terrific. Yes - it's o.k. to like this film!

Thanks so much for the kind attention ibj40... Given I couldn't trim back the A-pillar chrome trim as it floods down over the fender, all I could do was paint out what I could and hope for the best. Some of the silliness is hence disguised. Thanks... ...Tamiya X-4 Blue acrylic again. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, On this topic the A-pillars ought be be SUNOCO Blue to match and line up with the rest of the livery versus displaying in white. Given the windscreen is surrounded with delicate photo-etch, and the 'screen itself cut from clear acetate and delicate beyond belief, here I've opted to cut color-matching decal stock and effectively fill in color where it is needed. The shapes required certainly aren't complex, while the surface to cover is nearly flat. The approach generally works. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Just a brief update this. Seen is the second attempt at a front spoiler, looking tighter where the two elements meet, while the ends are a bit fatter and feature a radius around the top corners. The contemporary towing hook done as a photo etched part visible in earlier photos had to go, while for examining the installation of the same it seemed to be glued in place without strictly connecting to anything associated with the bumper or grille. Given this, I tied a length of fishing line around it and pulled it off with one quick jerk; i.e. success! Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Oh - and if it helps to reproduce what I'm trying here, the rear tires are from a 1:18th Action NASCAR diecast model likely from about 2000. Only acetone proven strong enough to remove the tire markings, while a real risk of frying the vinyl used to make these is run for working too slowly, too aggressively - or both. Like everything NASCAR and diecast, shop carefully and you shouldn't have to spend much at all to gather one up. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Oh - no trouble. The Replicarz Trans-Am Javelins were promised for a long time, and much-delayed. Replicarz has them showcased on their website, although other outlets as well as the usual suspects on eBay similarly have them. No opening panels - just a huge blob of resin, although a lot of care has gone into the paint work in particular. Know that most of it is pretty good. Should you run into messages indicating that the release is sold out at different vendors, I'd suggest going back to Replicarz and purchasing there given they'd be sitting on the largest quantities having commissioned these. A George Follmer '72-season Championship car was released at the same moment (this past Thanksgiving '19 then), while a sister car in the form of the Roy Woods '72 ride was recently cancelled owing to poor demand. Expect to pay $200-$229.95 depending on holiday coupons and applicable discounts if such can be had. - I wouldn't be surprised if a small series of stock '71-'74 releases are eventually done from the tool given what the chassis looks like and given the body shell is about identical but for the wheel arch contour. We could wait forever for an old-school all opening panels Javelin but are very unlikely to ever get one, while here would be the newfangled and admittedly pricey sealed option that will likely only become more expensive as time passes. On this basis, if one has an interest plus resources to gather one or two up, I'd suggest acting more or less soon. - I'm just making discreet changes given enhancing little things on 1:18th prefinished models is more my speed given my iffy capacity to focus on anything for long. Seen below are fabricated front spoiler element overlays given they should either be clear Lexan or painted red versus red-tinted Lexan. Decals are Fred Cady waterslide and happily are pretty good for size. I miscalculated the gap between the elements and will have to make these again , although generally I got about 90% there for not overlapping the mounting system either atop the elements while still having material wrap around the ends. It's all held in with white craft glue, hence nothing hot or damaging was employed to affix what's seen. Looking at my last photo, notice the small Sears DieHard battery decal (race version with the checkered flag then) set atop the accessory decal stack forward of the front wheel arch. And finally, the latter day vintage racing accessory rear view mirrors, discreet as they are, have been carefully removed with the exterior rear view mirror mount being touched in with Tamiya acrylic Blue X-4. My fear of this sealed resin topic is lessening as I'm registering a few successes, while soon the wheels will be final finished and incorporated into what is seen. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks... Now seen with the addition of brass lugs and nuts, with chrome bathroom fixture washers used as brake discs. Sounding crude, but the washers are cleanly plated on both sides and aren't crudely stamped out like the typical corner hardware store fare. Also, given these wheels will be mounted on the as-delivered metal axles, I've mounted the pegs on the back of each front wheel at a slight angle to suggest negative camber and toe-out. The Replicarz wheels don't roll, hence nothing is really being given away here for doing things in such a fashion. I might also cheat and just drill the holes for the metal axle in the rear in an offset fashion for I want to increase the ride height out back. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

It's really beautiful with intelligent upgrades subtly worked in and fine finish choices incorporated throughout. Thanks so much for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings and thanks for the kind input and research help besides... Although a little tedious, here would be some effort to shore up the '68 RKE/JRT Javelin Trans-Am project so that it might match the '69 iteration for chassis detail up front and underhood. Barely discernible on the '69 situated forward, the tunnel ram has been filed down between the twin stacks of inlet runners to open things up, while the carburetors have been cut apart from each other (no big issue this) and better positioned besides. Both models are Frankenstein specials for utilizing spares sourced from wherever, with many a shade and/or curious color plastic witnessed across each project. Oh - I did add some material to flesh out the fenders of the '69 effort and continue to struggle to square away the end cap trim to my satisfaction. I'm 'not there' yet, while blending everything and coming back to rescribe the end caps at the proper length and depth will be a pain. Thanks for your review of this dual project update... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Sort of heart-stopping for being the $200-$229.95 sealed resin topic most wouldn't dare modify, here would be some initial project lay ups consistent with tossing caution aside and attacking one nevertheless. Four enormous screws hold the resin chassis to the resin body, while I'm told the wheel/tires/axles simply rest in place and can be pulled out for tugging each assembly straight up. With this in mind, seen below is a combination of parts and accessories consistent with revising things. Exchanging note with others online, the impression gleaned concerning the new Replicarz effort is that the Minilites they tooled are a bit shallow, while the diameter of the front wheels is noticeably smaller than what is fitted out back. Further, the fairly modern powder coated finish applied to the wheels isn't quite desired, while corporate insistence on promoting the brand resulted in very contemporary for font style tire identification witnessed on the sidewalls. Something has to be done I tell you! Legende Miniatures out of France was tapped for the resin Minilites seen, with the cast-in wheel hub detail ground off, the outer wheel lip sanded to remove an unwanted raised contour given I desire a nice uniform taper across said surface. The hub guides are aluminum tube, the front tires ancient 1:18th ERTL '70 1/2 Firebird Trans Am issue, while the rear tires are from a presently unidentified NASCAR release I'll try to clarify for communicating with those who'd know such things. The non-tilted tire markings are sourced from IndyCals and really impress for being clear and bright, while they betray little visible carrier film even sans application of a semi-gloss clear to disguise matters. The historical record relates that about halfway through the '70 season (and looking forward into the next) that Goodyear Super Modified tires were determined to be best for the front, while ungainly and rather tall of profile NASCAR tires worked best on the rear. Consistent with this knowledge, the somewhat odd look of the tires I've reached for can be appreciated. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Going back briefly to the '68 RKE/JRT Javelin, it was decided to reproduce the inner fender/wing project work on the '69 for cutting off the promo-style round wheel arch detail. Happily the cutting of said arch detail can be achieved without running great risk, hence no great skill is required. Further, the '69 Javelin interior has been 'filleted' to the extent of trimming off the faintly detailed interior side panels so that they might be mated to the unfinished/bare race interior floor otherwise sporting '70-specific trim which in this instance is undesired. When finally wrapped up, these may be glued in place or simply taped into position (as seen below) given there isn't anything truly structural about what they lend to these builds. Given masking the floor off from the cast-in interior side panels to reflect alternating finishes, it's something of a gift to split these items apart. Some fill panel work will be required two times over to complete the profile of each side relative to the other panel work present, although in essence it's clean. The driveshaft and shifter are or will be Revell '69 Camaro items. And just in passing, the cut outs seen along the top of the firewall on this '68 iteration are for the fresh air system worked out by Ronnie Kaplan when the cross ram twin four barrel intake came into use. ...while here would be the '69 interior side panels. A slight cut will be made to distinguish the door panel from the rear passengers compartment interior panel trim, while note that the armrest detail (faint though it was) has been ground out in anticipation of the fabrication and insertion of additional fill panels consistent with what was run in-period. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks - I have kits and/or incomplete kit targets to seek out. In particular, I really appreciate the steadying influence for kind thoughts expressed and good will evidenced. The topics I choose tend to be peculiar, but as a positive the chance is afforded to make them my own, ably assisted by those with greater knowledge and experience than I can bring to bear upon matters. Although often hard pressed to afford value in turn, it would leave me appalled to come back to a thread and notice anything that could be construed as snark if you will penned by my own hand. While all are not demonstrably capable of such, we each must try to model what is right and dignified about that which we hold dear. Again - know that I appreciate was has been availed to me past and present. I value the scene and the friendships formed here very much... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind interest... Indeed the struggle to clarify the identity of American Motor's products and product range continues, while more than few have fallen victim to those who would insensitively modify them - or gasp - toss many a good subassembly aside to fit an example with LS power to 'make a real car of it'. Whatever else I might be, I would never do such a thing... Here in SE Michigan happily we have a pretty vibrant AMC scene with the old headquarters as well as the later American Center in nearby Southfield, MI. featuring as local landmarks. Each fall a AMC-themed gathering known as the Greenmead show is hosted by a local marque club, while Facebook AMC groups as well as Vintage SCCA Trans-Am groups flesh out my intake of scenes to tap outside of independent application to inform what I attempt in-scale. If matters are proceeding swimmingly, on occasion contact might be established with those with some relation to the actual topic; i.e people involved in-period, owners past and present, as well as restoration and service personnel of surviving vehicles. While the actual automobiles are scarce, networking with those so-aligned and intrigued is better than it was in the past. Digital archive access in particular has never been so wide, while this teamed to material collection consistent with answering questions that are raised helps to tie in much that otherwise was suspended in air in a research sense. With all said and done, projects such as these I'd typically avoid can be brought into focus and labored upon with reasoned hope of coming up with something reasonably sound bordering on accurate for spec. and finishes employed. Thanks... - Seen below will be some additional inner fender/inner wing work consistent with adding a top layer to front subframe rails affixed as they are to the base of my SC/Rambler panels. The first photo telegraphs how matters appear from the top apart and away from the model, the second image depicts how the bottom ledge was trimmed close to shape of the inside of each suspension turret, while the third and final image relates how things appear when assembled. Surely it's better versus looking into the half-open frame rails which suggested hack work. And lastly, an adjustment has been made to the fill panel atop the grille mating with the radiator support so that it'll not strictly dip where it meets the support proper. Thanks for reviewing this project update... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for your effort and insight shared on my behalf. Some period shots of the car reveal quite a bit of oil residue spread about under hood, while with a strictly sealed system incorporating a vent system with a stand alone 'puke tank' as was (almost) standard in the series, I doubt this would have been an issue. I'll have to cut apart my intake consistent with clearing space between and beneath the intake runners and likely scratch build flanges, but if the design of the breathers is distinct enough and chrome-plated besides, then maybe it's worth the time and trouble to reproduce the detail. I appreciate the help, while again it seems how it is I write draws in the trolls... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings and thanks for the interest expressed in questions posed in the past... Isolating assemblies and subassemblies for a project, does anyone recognize the oil breathers in use on this particular topic, and do they exist on a tool I can reach for? I'm thinking that they might be something done by Mickey Thompson, and that some drag racing or land speed record car in 1:25th would offer up such. My knowledge of period speed equipment is limited, hence the guiding influence of others is sought! O.K. - look not so much at the valve covers or near the water inlet for the breathers, but rather atop the intake across the lifter valley to see two of the breathers of which I speak. Whaddya think? The image was captured by Karl Ludvigsen at Bridgehampton, NY in '69, the topic a same-year RKE/JRT Trans-Am Javelin again... Kind thanks for reading this post... Mike K./Swede70

Sorry - almost overkill this... After a bit of trimming near the firewall then. I'll try to do the frame rail overlays/plugs next to help clean things up. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind comments and notice... Seen are some initial steps to transplant in Jo-Han SC/Rambler inner wings/fenders. I've failed at this before for cutting things too short, but here I've opted to save as much length from the Rambler parts even to the point of blending where both the radiator support and firewall connect with the panels to be recycled. Notice too I've saved material which stretches forward of the radiator support to better suggest fender stamping detail and to basically have something that will hook positively into place. Work to flesh out and seal the front subframe rails constitutes work to come. Moving along, I'm thinking of doing away with the Rambler hood hinge pockets given they serve no constructive purpose, although it was neat to notice that I could make everything hang together in-place without glue on what I'll term my engineering hack. The last image depicts the '69 sans any work to really integrate the new additions to the firewall profile proper, hence nothing really sits down as it ought. Thanks... ...what wiring harness detail I could remove I did, while the battery mount was cut off entire and matters cleaned up to the degree I could. Latitude exists to file down the tops and reshape them consistent with ensuring the hood fits level and well. ...note the suspension turrets align with the center of each wheel arch. ...clean from below too, without massive work demanded to clean things up underneath each fender top. Yes - I soon reshaped the right suspension turret wall seen forward so that it would match the one on the left... ...with a new seal forward of the radiator support, and the inner fenders/wings quickly set in place sans fine fit work - hence it sticks up in the back. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks everyone for looking in and contributing to a solution to what I hope to achieve. I really appreciate it and will be diligent in following up leads availed here. Again - thank you... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Pondering how to do what would be exceedingly thin pin stripes bordering the alternating red/white/blue livery seen on '68 and '68 Ronnie Kaplan Engineering Trans-Am Javelins, has anyone tried color-keyed fishing line to reproduce something like this? I simply need a straight line not quite on the border of each colored element, while perhaps this is the best way to get there? Efforts to turn up decal sheets with straight pinstripes of various widths for tapping Japanese sources almost got me what was required, but now I'm thinking another path will need to be explored... Look closely at the photo and one can make out the blue pinstripe just before the red painted rear third of the car comes into view. Were we looking at the transition to the front third in blue, a pinstripe would be seen again, this time in red. Advice or ideas how to lay down or control such would be appreciated. Kind thanks for reading this post.... Mike K./Swede70