swede70

My thanks again for the kind words and interest expressed... I've seen pictures of the '69 Javelin racer captured above, although I know very little about it. I think it's based in the U.K., but I can't claim to have pursued any leads consistent with filling out the history of such. Neat though, undoubtedly so. Thanks for uploading these... - Modest stuff and long delayed, at some point I wished to expand the base of the front wheel arch openings to reflect clearance issues encountered on such racing vehicles at full lock and a full compression/jounce. The top of the profile is stock, although heading towards the firewall the profile is pulled back. The front of the arch contour is expanded out a bit, although not so much as it is towards the rear. Although John Martin is obscuring the arch profile forward of the front tire, notice how the opening is pulled back rear of same... ...opened a touch forward too. Viewed head-on, the profile is even, although it appears a bit irregular viewed from the top given the presence of subtle flaring. ...and nothing huge, but the cast-in 'JAVELIN' rear license plate goes away even as I'll have to fill in a gap remaining atop the rear valance panel. Thanks for skimming this project update. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Trying if you will to reduce the mass of the hood bubble as per photos and for reasoned feedback afforded. Happily enough material exists beneath what I've worked up to allow such, hence no great issue. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Mostly detail changes consistent with cleaning up past work, a replacement radiator support wider than the one used to date was substituted in, largely correcting the gory mismatch formerly seen with regards to how the front grille/bumper/fender end trim caps meshed with each front fender. Work is still needed, but at least it isn't embarrassing to contemplate now. Multiple careful applications of putty better blend the new rear flares to the shell, the front headlamps now have a convex shape versus flat fill panels as seen before, while the clumsy turn indicator overlays have given way to flush plugs. Also, the annual and promo issue 'JAVELIN' identification otherwise a feature of the front bumper license plate area has been scrubbed out entire. ...just a small study of the headlamps, covered and bulging out just a bit even as they're just non-functional silhouettes. The flush turn signal inserts are likewise seen, while other things noticeable would be the five panel Wink rear view mirror as well as the odd three duct air dam which is soon to come. The half-width sunshade is a fun detail in particular. Period SCCA Trans-Am cars look tough! As related above, better panel alignment, headlamp and turn signal fill panels redone, and no more 'JAVELIN' license plate i.d. I didn't have suitably sized solid plastic rod, so smaller plastic rod was mated to larger plastic tube to come up with what was required. For the new radiator support install and the dash board fit, the inner fender alignment has been thrown off and must be reset. Otherwise it's looking cleaner - especially the rear flares which received some light surface profile work as well. Difficult to make out, just behind the hood may be seen a pair of cast resin flush door handles which will replace the cast-in stuff on the shell. I'd rather finish the handles off of the shell versus covering them with layers of primer and paint, hoping to recover matters after the fact. Thanks for reviewing this project update. Mike K./Swede70

Those both look quite nice. Happy too to absorb a good customer relations/customer service tale given it offsets many tales of woe shared by others in relation to shipping gone wild, etc. Neat items surely. Mike K./Swede70

And with the assembled chassis without any adjustment to the rear track. It looks pretty decent. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, The flares reduced in shape and introduced into the shell I'll use for the '69 then. Some fine putty work and wheel arch shaping is still required, but mostly nice. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind notice everyone, while just a bleached out fourth-generation Polish-American here; i.e. the handle name refers to one-time Dan Gurney protege David 'Swede' Savage and was reached for when I needed an eBay identity long ago. - ...the topic again, a bit scrunched prior to the start of the '69 season-ender at Riverside. Mike K./Swede70

Looking very clean. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind interest expressed... Just further refinements as I start to tuck the flares into the shell. About 60% of the mass will be removed from each side before matters are declared done, although it's generally going smoothly. Given I'm going to overlay each onto a Jimmy Flintstone resin Trans-Am Javelin shell, I've substituted in my scrap example as I tighten things up. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Moving along... Here the four layers of sheet plastic have been glued together, while an initial effort has been made to arrive at a basic shape twice over. Seen in the background is a scrap 1968 Javelin SST promotional model that is being used as a fit surrogate until things are closer to what I desire for overall dimensions. The '69-specific flares look enormous now, but better too large than too small as filing down what is discerned isn't that difficult. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

No trouble David and thanks for your interest and reply... I picked up an Action Performance Chevrolet something or other at an area hobby shop as a trade-in for $14.95 and was doing nothing with it. I think the model dated back to maybe 2000-2005, but I'm not sure given only scraps of such remain. Indeed - no sidewall engravings are to be seen. Be alert that I effectively fried my first tires when I opted to remove the sidewall lettering given it's pretty stout stuff, while it might be good to dilute 100% acetone down to come up with something less hot than what I employed. Said sidewall letter seemed immovable for use of light duty nail polish remover, hence my first effort using something milder met with failure. I did have to boil water and immerse the wheels and tires within consistent with rendering the vinyl pliable enough to move. Later when I fit the wheels to the tires I decided to economize a bit and simply reused my original tire decal application. I took two bowls of water and added only enough to creep up to the top sidewall lest the water damage the decals, while know that enough heat spread through each tire to get the job done both front and rear. The IndyCals sheet was really inexpensive at $3 for two sets/sides, with shipping maybe $1. Happily I'm good to go for I ordered two sheets and will be ready when more Minilites arrive in maybe a month. The Legende Miniature Minilites received some outer edge reshaping, but I did nothing to turn them down to fit either the front or rear tires identified. The unseen rear lip of the front wheels was added to make things look complete, while some structure was added to the back rear centers to accommodate the axles I'd fabricated. The axle material settled upon was 2.5 mm brass wire, while nothing had to be carved out of the rearward axle recess on the resin chassis plate to ensure things sit evenly. All in all, it's pretty easy... Yes - somewhat underwhelmed with how the fade out center stripe on the hood came through. Even for having gathered a reasoned amount of research I wasn't familiar with the detail (i.e. the white to red fade), and yet I hovered over it upon delivery thinking that wow - this just isn't amazing even as it looks o.k. on low resolution web images. Earlier I was pondering the removal and replacement of the accessory decal 'stack' seen forward of either front wheel arch/housing, although I stopped given I didn't have equal or superior decals at the ready to replace what is seen. This understood, I still made an inspection of the decal work consistent with mulling the possibilities, and I fear the decal work has a clear coat atop it rendering it immovable. I'm still thinking about it and certainly the criticism is valid. As a low-risk project I might take a length of white decal stock and do a fade-to-red treatment atop it consistent with overlaying what Replicarz afforded us. Should I fail, the effort stays off of the model, although maybe it'll work? The rectangular shape would be no issue to cut, while the surface the decal image would rest upon is a flat as could be imagined. If anyone looking on has ideas on how to attack something like this, please feel free to contribute. Thanks... - Thanks Rex for the interest and the image... I suspect later this year I'll grab the '72 Geo. Follmer RWR release as you've captured above. I'm glad I wouldn't really have to attack the front spoiler, while nice too that they mastered the smaller of section A-pillar fresh air duct given scratch building something like that takes nerve and application. One of the new sets of Legende Miniature Minilites will be prepared for the '72-season winner, while I'll try to grab an Action Performance Ford-powered something or other consistent with grabbing suitable tires as well as all that might be taken from whatever iteration of a Cleveland Ford small block exists under the hood of such. I have a bunch of Welly/ACME '69 to '71-season BOSS 302 Trans-Am topics that beg for powertrain implants, and while I have worked up maybe 80% of what I need to do this for copying select parts of other tools in resin, some further parts and assemblies still need to be fabricated and/or gathered before I'm ready. Kind thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind words... Not glamorous, but these would be the four-layer 'pucks' intended to be the basis for the '69 RKE/JRT Trans-Am Javelin rear flares with material sufficient to allow for as much mass and I'd desire topside, as well as what would be required in the tumblehome area. Sculpting and final shaping these will likely prove to be easier! Mike K./Swede70

Thanks... Although almost tedious beyond words at this point, the wheels will be refinished again - this time in a rather muddy low-gloss white. With this topic it's a challenge to put what images may be found in event order, while it seems that as the season progressed a more vibrant finish was applied to the wheel consistent with better matching the white employed on the body proper. In particular, the exterior spec. and accessory decals hardly alter after the season-opener at Lime Rock, CT. Given the competition and series itself was in a healthier state earlier in the season, the slightly mismatched white body section relative to the wheel finish then-run will be what I aim to capture. Pity I didn't reach for the right stuff and/or test finish combinations prior to spraying this last time... See - even Mark's growing a bit weary of my vacillation in relation to finishing what it is I intended to do... - Earlier today I ordered new wheels, set aside all materials to create new assemblies, and tested an application of Tamiya AS-20 Insignia White which is a variant which just stumbles across the line for being identified as a white and not a gray. My previous effort in AS-16 Light Gray (USAF) is simply too dark. It might be a month, although matters will be set right. Mike K./Swede70

Looks beautiful... For long there was a low-cost 1:18th scale diecast TR6 out there done by Britains Collectibles that was reasonably good, although not standard-setting. The Minichamps release depicted here looks far better. It's nice to know some firm has finally stepped up and done honor to the topic. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Happily the wheels/tires/axles worked up dropped right on. Pondering if I should try again given the gray chosen could have been lighter still. Anyhow, this is how matters stand at present. Tiny cylindrical jacking points have been added along the rocker panels on either side directly below the GOODYEAR identification on the doors, painted to match the interior and what might also be used on the chassis should I devise some means to mask cast-in detail for use of Silly Putty or some such. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Hopefully good to fit, here would be the wheels and tires awaiting installation. Note some effort was made to add a bit of negative camber as well as a measure of toe-out up front. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Quite an effort. When diecast enthusiasts want to traverse the country with their respective favorites for view or for participation at select events, they need only call you! Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Indeed - it's a bit of a shock to open one of these resin models only to discover all the expense and bother is restricted to the surface. Coming from a kit background where it's a point of honor to finish aspects of the model that are fated to be out of sight, looking at a sealed resin model broken down is akin to viewing what might be the product of prison labor. I don't see much romance in it, while if I can may a light overhaul of things for simply putting resin wheels on fabricated brass wire axles, so be it... - Pondering a final finish to apply to the Legende Miniatures resin Minilites I intend to use, I've decided to apply a light gray that might almost be mistaken for white. Magnesium decays for exposure to oxygen, while in-period it wasn't unusual to see bare Minilites or those with an exposed and machined bright outer lip painted over either at the end of the season ('69 and '70), or fairly early in ('71). Notable examples include the '69 Ronnie Kaplan Engineering/Javelin Racing Team Javelins (Riverside at least), the '70 Gurney AAR 'Cudas (solid white at Kent and Riverside), and soon enough the '71-season '70 Bud Moore Engineering BOSS 302's. Review of photos by many attuned eyes lean towards wheels painted white, although for a bit of recent discussion and for reviews of images like the one seen below, my impression is that a very light gray akin to Traco engine gray was used on the wheels after the season opener at Lime Rock, CT. The image pasted in is from a series of photos captured at '71 Mid-Ohio presumably during technical inspection for being on the scales... ...certainly darker than the white used on the body, darker than the sidewall tire lettering, and almost akin to the finish applied to the bare interior. Some believe the wheels should be finished in white, while the restored car is outfitted in such a fashion. As for me, I'm not quite a believer... - With the above in mind, seen are my replacement wheels and tires after applying Tamiya AS-16 Light Gray (USAF) paint, Testor's flat clear lacquer to the sidewalls of the tires to knock down the gloss on the fronts in particular, but also to blend the carrier film to the sidewalls, etc. The lug surfaces have been cleaned up, while the lugs soon to be painted are missing here. Tape weights and duct tape to safeguard them from shifting may also be applied. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Neat project; i.e. I'll be looking on with interest... Mike K./Swede70

Neat project focus - thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the understanding and the kind words... A beautifully-prepared GT 1 racer your friend had and certainly a neat experience to be involved with the effort that must have been. I'm somewhat close to Waterford Hills, MI. as road racing venues go, although I've never been directly involved with a team. Like others I suppose I read the Van Valkenburgh/Donohue racing autobiography The Unfair Advantage and quite suddenly that was the standard; i.e. ignore everyone and simply work out the best thing going with a formula and it should perform... - Given this was going to be a pricey model, I ended up shuffling a few things onto eBay to protect the budget, while for working at an area automobilia store a day a week helped on the price front. Most of the parts gathered weren't hugely expensive, although it would be silly to suggest that such don't add up when honestly tallied. If this wasn't the only 1:18th Trans-Am Javelin on the market, it likely would have been skipped. As things stand, on this board subpage one will find a 1:18th Chaparral Camaro thread evolving sort of as a reply to the Repilcarz announcement that a sealed resin version is coming. I wouldn't be surprised if the announced price of $239.95 doesn't creep further upward, and frankly I can't justify a purchase if I can come up with a feature-laden alternative even if it too would be expensive if itemized in detail. Thanks... - Oh - and now a few photos of my Javelin with the newly-refinished original wheels and tires. Further down one will find some information which will guide my efforts to create alternative stuff to substitute in when it's wholly justifiable to do so. Dimensions helpful to understand just what I'll work up to slid in off the model are as follows: Axle diameter: 2.7 mm Approximate axle width: 85 mm Track front and rear: 150 mm Track from inside tire sidewall-to-sidewall : Front/69 mm & Rear/70 mm Width of cast-in resin pedestal-to-pedestal inside the shell itself: 65 mm - Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Oh - and I have a friend who will inquire about my project progress to the effect: "...is what you did obvious, or is it something invisible that just looks like how the model ought to have been finished from the start?" He might also say: "...so, you've taken a $70 model, and now it's worth $30?" Such is my plight then... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind continued interest... Sort of a test run as-described above, seen are the refinished original wheels and tires. Controversy surrounds the appearance of the '71 Penske Javelin wheels, with early shots and some mid-season photos suggesting bare mag. alloy, while later shots may be reasonably interpreted as being either white or light gray. Light levels, contrasting the tone of the wheels to the tone of the light gray-painted interior (which itself can appear white), etc. seems to muddle things further for no one photo clears matters up. Odd too given the '72-season spec. looks consistently white and no one questions that! For starters I've tried my best recipe for Minilite magnesium alloy which is Testor's Model Master Stainless Steel Buffing (a now-deleted product range - act quick) with a light overcoat of Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear to afford a light surface dazzle. I had a 1:1 period set for a '74 BMW 2002 I owned that was sent to an area media blaster, and for trying every possible combination one might attempt for scale projects, what is presented below was the clear winner. Moving along, the sidewall markings only shift for use of 100% acetone which threatens to turn the vinyl tires to goo at any moment, while the hub guides were masked off with coils of Tamiya hobby tape first formed over round stock of about the same diameter; i.e. by design, they fit tight. Water heated just short of boiling was required to render the tires pliable enough to remove to facilitate the refinish of the wheels. Oh, and if it need be said, tire decals are the same IndyCals markings as tried out on the replacement tires seen further up this thread. Whew - thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, For some application and the removal of four machine screws, the chassis come off clean and the axles lift straight up and out. Worries that the brake discs and calipers would be glued fast were misplaced given they slid right off of the wheels and onto the axles. Notice too that the new wheels and tires seemingly drop right on without clearance issues, while the chassis can be painted, again without huge risk entailed. I'll likely refinish the stock wheels as practice to final finish the new set with new axles entire. I suspect I'll leave the interior alone given removal of the glue and prying this and that to break it apart probably doesn't merit the risk run. Consistent with protecting everything, the model was handled only with gloves, while as-seen it's been set down on a thin white plastic trash bag spread out atop a bathroom towel folded just-so lest the paint, sheet acetate glass or photo-etched parts pick up damage. One must be careful! Thanks... ...and although I cannot guess if anyone 'in corporate' is aware of what I do here, some stories trickle back in relation to how matters are researched prior to tooling anything. What is thought very good indeed by them quite often isn't standard setting upon reflection and for pouring over period materials in particular. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Seen earlier today. I didn't have huge expectations, felt it would under perform, but also I made a point of not taking notes to tear it down later. Given the bundle of plot points the people involved had to work with going in and all the hot criticism heard about troubles in-production, I think J.J. Abrams did a very good job. I was happy to note that the cutting style wasn't as rapid as many action pictures seen of late, while even if the product was market research/focus grouped to death, it was clear to me that people directly involved tried to make adjustments with regards to addressing much. Not everything is resolved, they rush, rush, rush through one scene after another, but in the main quite an accomplishment. The light saber fights had the intensity of actual fights and weren't the expected passionless and overly choreographed nothingness, the effects were as fluid as ever seen, while much material is tossed to the audience in the hope they'll recognize stuff from past films, or cluck in recognition of what thoughts and behaviors are characteristic of this person or that. It moves along under it's own speed, certainly doesn't drag, and isn't painful to take in. The production design and special effects are very clean, the humor tossed in is a nice contrast to the dour and serious tone of some of the other films of late and all the prequels, and all the money is seen on-screen; i.e. a pure big-screen spectacle in a very good way. Most of the plot is serviceable enough, the PC-content really wasn't so heavy or obvious as might be feared, while the resolution achieved with regards to the lead character's identity and sense of peace established for the journey made worked I think. The Kylo Ren story arch is likewise good, although one can tell that other characters struggle a bit for material having been left on the cutting room floor. Just go see it as a big screen special effects show and harbor modest ambition as to plot. In the right frame of mind and imagining one is fourteen years of age or so, it's terrific. Yes - it's o.k. to like this film!