Olderisbetter

Good start there. I did on a while back. Made it a plain Jane bone stock, battleship grey. I park it next to a 41 Ford 4door and a 41 Chevy coupe.

Nice...I wish they had more in 1/24.

Forgot to mention, the last pic is ad art.

This is my biggest scratch project yet. It is a model of what's know as an Esaan Farm Truck here in Thailand where I retired. (I'm American) The engine is a one cylinder diesel with a crank start, producing 12-15 HP depending on the model. They make 1/2T. 3/4T and 1T models. My replica is scratch built except for the rear axle, tires/wheel, steering wheel/shaft, mirrors and headlights. The engine is scratchbuilt also. I used sheet styrene and Popsicle sticks along with balsawood and other materials. .The first pic is of a real truck. I went to a factory that makes these to study them. They are made in small mom & Pop factories with maybe 5-10 employees. They all look basically the same but are not exactly alike. They cost about $3000 brand new.

Has anyone scratchbuilt rear axles, differentials?

I was self employed most of my working life. Retired now. Profit is not always as it appears. There is gross profit and there is net profit. And there is sometimes a wide gap in between. Consider the time spent purchasing the product...the time spent inventorying the parts...then packaging the parts for identifying them later....advertising...then the actual sale...After that the buyer (ebay or whatever) may never actually pay for the product...if buyer pays, then repackaging them and shipping the product to the buyer.. I have never sold on ebay or any other media...I'm a chronic buyer myself.

Outstanding work. I have been wanting to do a 41 Willys coupe as stock. Just this morning I scored an ebay auction for some Jeepester bodies but included is a flathead jeep engine which is a Willys engine. I also have a 41 Ford woody kit just sitting here. But I don't like to copy someone elses work. Maybe I'll go for the stock coupe.

Now here's some ideas for builds. Some very neat rigs here. http://www.diecast.org/diecast98/html/asp/forums/forum18/viewMessage.asp?id=121967

I love it. What a neat story. She is lucky to have you for a big brother.

Maybe some of these will show up on Ebay. http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/nation-now/2016/03/21/minnesota-house-of-cars/82075114/

You guys need help...LOL

The first car I can remember my dad having was a 41 Ford 4dr. I wanted a model. So I took a 48 Ford 4 dr resin and used the front end off a AMT 41 Ford Woody. Though both were 1/25 scale, the cowl on the body was almost 1/8 inch narrower than the fenders & hood from the the 41. Had to mate them while keeping the top of the roof the same dimension. Also was mating styrene to resin. I'm still looking for 1941 tail lights. The woody has different tail lights. The tail lights from a 56 Revell Ford panel truck are the same as a 41 Ford.

I live in Thailand and have to pay through the butt for postage. About $30.00 a kit. Some ebay sellers want even more. Then I have the risk that Thailand will charge me import duties on top of that. I have bought one built $9.00 kit that the seller charged me $40.00 for shipping. Plus the car came in with missing parts. But most sellers on ebay are very good.

1938 Buick 4 door. I hope this doesn't bore Aho too much

I have owned 13 real Jeeps vehicles in my life. Would love to see some more models.

Outstanding work. Love those weathered big rigs.

Real men just go out and buy their own pantyhose. I have used it for rear package shelves...works great.

Use pantyhose for seat covers. First paint seat color of choice. Find pantyhose of similar color or close. Stretch it over the seat, glue underneath. Then paint again to match color you painted the seat. Looks like mohair. Great for 30's & 40's era cars.

I have researched this subject a little. If you just want a an oven to help dry the paint, not dehydrate food, I believe an old hotplate or element from a coffeemaker, a wooden box with wire rack type shelf and a thermometer wood do the trick. Vent holes on top to help regulate the temp. Some people make them using a cardboard box or an old drawer. In fact I'll be making mine next week.

What local hobby shops??? I wish there were some local hobby shops. There are a few in Bangkok, but they mostly deal in RC. I live about 170 miles north of BKK. The closest American that I'm aware of is about 25 miles from me. There are a few Europeans around. Sorry, I'm off subject here. I mostly order kits & supplies online and just pay the (ouch) shipping. Some things like adhesives, chemicals and paints can't be shipped. Learning more sources and substitute products all the time. Thanks for all the replies.

Are there any modelers in Thailand here? Retired American looking for other modelers, Thai or Expat.

I think we need to consider the time it takes to inventory, package and ship these parts. A $3.00 part may involve as much labor as a $50 part. I'll bet non of these parts sellers are rich. I have never sold parts myself, by the way.

OK...I tried an experiment and it worked. I sprayed some chrome paint in a small jar. Then took a cotton swab (Q-Tip type), dipped it in the paint and laid it on the fin perpendicular. . quickly ran the length of the fin with just a little pressure. It came out great.

Thanks for the tips. Can't get alclad here (Thailand) but can get a good quality chrome spray paint. I once tried brushing it with poor results. I'll get more serious on it this time. Really shake her up good before I decant. Car is painted gloss black already, that might help.

Is there any chrome brush on or felt tip pen type applicator? I am doing a 57 Ford and the fin chrome lines lack definition. So BMF or spray and mask won't work. I have a silver felt type applicator, but just looks like grey paint. Open to suggestions here.