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STYRENE-SURFER

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Everything posted by STYRENE-SURFER

  1. Wow, thanks Ace, You have put me on the right path, and yes it's the Riley parts I'm looking for. Travis, I think you are wrong, here is a pic of the wood bows for a 29 ford PU. there is a curve on the rear bow.
  2. Ace... You certainly have a better memory of these old kits than me. Any chance you have any of these parts to trade? The information you provided allone is more than I expected. thanx. Now to try o figure out which Revell kit to find on E-Bay.
  3. Trying to round up parts for a 1929 ford flatbed truck build based on a drawing I found on the Coffin Corner site. I would like to build it with a four banger with some old traditional speed parts. I think I remember there was an old kit that had some multi valve speed parts. Where they "Riley"? Any way can't remember the kit. Nudge nudge. I have the Monogram 29 ford rat rod 3 "n 1,and a couple Master Box 1/24th pin up girls to create the Daisy Duke like girl sitting on the truck. The drawing shows a flathead 8, but I'm thinking a 4 could be interesting. The roof on this kit is flat for some reason so I'll have to fix that.
  4. Did some more experimenting. Used lower Air pressures 10-8, with my medium needle .3 . I still could not get a smooth coat, it looks as if it is drying before it has a chance to level out. I then tried to spray it on something that wasn't plastic to prove it wasn't crazing. Sprayed it on a piece of glass and it still had the orange peal look. Turned up the pressure to 22 and put it on heavy enough to smooth out. Success ? NO!!!! Spraying it this way would just obliterate any detail on a model. I have three of the large size bottles of this stuff but no use fore them now. Arrrrg.
  5. Ya. It"s strange because this stuff is pre thinned for air brushing. I could be working in a difficult painting area, very dry. However,while spraying the Alclad primer I could not get a nice even cote. It did not seem to want to level out at all. I wonder if some kind of retarder could help here. Like I said the Mr. Surfacer 1000 and Mr. Color Thinner worked wonderfully.
  6. I actually did try thinning the Alclad and I got the same result. So no, not fixed. Too hot , yes I think it is crazing. Why would this be a problem for a primer meant for styrene? Ace, Do you have any luck with these Alclad primers? Can you add any helpful info?? I don't know if you even read my entire post because I clearly said I followed up with a test of (Mr.Surfacer 1000 thinned w/Mr.color thiner) and it worked fine.
  7. So I purchased three bottles of this stuff,(white gray black) and tested it out on some scrap styrene. tried three diferrent airbrush needle sizes ( 0.5 to 0.2 ) at various P.S.I. and got nothing but "Pebble Beach". Then I tried something I had read somewhere about thinning Mr. Surfacer 1000 w/Mr.Color Thinner. IT WENT DOWN LIKE SILK! Is Alclad primer just a Hodad thing or can anyone shed some light this way. Now before any of you Bail, I did do allot of googling before posting. Could it just be the their Lacquer is to hot? I know, I already answered my own question. Arrrrg.
  8. Here is a printable chart you can use as a guide.
  9. I love the lines of this car, especially the vert. This is looking real nice.
  10. Even his vacuum former is a work of art. Outstanding.
  11. Buy an expensive air brush – Wrong. An air brush can certainly improve your builds, when used correctly. However many award winning builds have been finished with nothing more than rattle cans. I have already broken rule one, the best airbrush I got was so expensive for me that it seems sacrileges to let paint even close to it. Still haven't used it yet because I know how my cheeper one behaves. Start with an expensive kit – Wrong. Whether it is a plastic or resin kit the price of the kit will not ensure great results. In fact buying a kit above you current skill level often results in a disappointing build.Have looked at some amazing builds of high end kits with all the extra photo etch and pluming bits that are available for them, and all those pieces would still be up to me to assemble. What I could do with all that extra detail is not just a matter of owning it. Kit bashing – Wrong. If the additional parts aren't installed correctly or inappropriate parts are added this detracts from the finished build.Guilty! but I would have more finished models if I hadn't. Aftermarket parts – Nope. You can buy as many aftermarket parts as you can fit on your build but if they aren’t installed or finished correctly this again will lead to disappointment.No experience with them. Study your subject – Ding Ding Ding we have a winner! The best way I have found to improve my builds is to understand the subject as fully as possible before I start to build. Instead of buying a bunch of aftermarket parts buy a book on your subject or do some research on the internet. Understanding what each kit part is supposed represents and what its function is on the vehicle allows you to:This is something I have been obsessing about lately, has led me to endless searches here and other sites (I am now addicted to the H.A.M.B.) I think this element of the hobby is key, yet it has a way of sending one through the rabbit hole for perfection.
  12. I don't think I like those "secrets". Too many rules. Kinda reminds me of this guy...
  13. I just picked up the new Revell 29 Ford 2'n1 kit that is very popular here. I would like to build it as more of a traditional rod of the era using parts available back then. However, I am unable to find well detailed front and rear ford bits in any of the kits in my stash. Any ideas for kits that have good front/rear wishbone type thingies to use. I like the kit in general, but it's just too much of a mishmash to me. Not enough of one thing or the other to persuade me that a committee wasn't involved.
  14. No, what I'm talking about is making a modern version or perhaps you could say tribute to an old kit. Updated yet still done as if it could be (out of the box). I have an old Monogram Tom Daniel's "Horn Toad" that I'm thinking of trying this on. Sort of a "Horn Toad 2" kind of thing.
  15. Andy, I have never seen this vid before. but the song is part of my audial deoxyribonucleic acid. Cool.
  16. Has anybody out there ever thought about building a model as if it where the kit and not an attempt to duplicate something real. The reason why I ask is I'm currently working on sort of a tribute project (Tom Daniel's type custom). I am thinking now to make it as a model that I might have purchased as as a kid. Not a detailed car but a sort of theme car constructed in the way those old kits went together. Has anyone thought of building as to replicate the type of construction in modeling designers or manufacturers rather than true scale? Yea, I know. Weird question.
  17. When I first heard the Castaways I was five years old and living in Los Altos California, This song was on the radio allot along with other great regional music that became popular.( Surfin' bird was huge.) The Band was actually from the midwest. Here is another one.
  18. One from Minnesota...
  19. Aaron, Great start. Is that the "32, 2'n1 kit? There are some nice parts in that kit, That flattie will be very cool with the scot blower. What heads are you planning to use?
  20. Jason, I picked up the latest release of this kit at the grand opening of the new Hobby Lobby nearby. I brought it home and test fitted the body to the tub and chassis, There is something strange going on with the fitment that pushes the frame to the right side front looking from above. I didn't take the time to make any measurements to see what was out of square, just threw it back in the box. The lack of any real locators doesn't help. Maybe some day I will just have to take a deep breath, hold my nose and just sit down and build it. (I do like the box art and this era of drag cars), but my kit is kind of a stinker. I look forward to see what you can do with it, cause I really would need some inspiration to put mine back on the bench.
  21. Because I have recently inquired on this site about the rarity of this kit, I felt perhaps others might be interested in its contents. It's a quite simple kit with not many parts. Mine has some parts off the trees, and a broken steering wheel. The only clear piece is a tinted windshield, mine has some nice scratches in it from floating around in the box for 44 years. The chrome is weak and you can see a lot of green showing through, don't know if that was standard for these old Monogram kits.
  22. Nice job and great pictures. Never heard of chemiwood, what is it?
  23. Richard, This is looking fantastic. That Revell kit looks quite fiddly, but there seems to be some nice details molded into it to work with.
  24. The box I have is marked 5987-0100. It is opened, but only the four rims have been removed from the chromed tree. The seats have also been cut free. I just noticed that the steering wheel is cracked," dang it! " The chrome is quite poor over all. Maybe I should clean everything up, have the chrome re-done and build it. The decals will also have problem's too, after so long in the box. It's funny, I just can't find any pictures of what people have done with this kit. I'm thinking just a little bit of extra detail. Or just plain over the top with some Richard Carroll tires and better rear suspension. Is there a source of those tires? ( Okay so I'm old and I remember those things).
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