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STYRENE-SURFER

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Everything posted by STYRENE-SURFER

  1. That is rosin core solder, will the rosin leak out of it and cause problems over time?
  2. Cameron, you certainly did your homework on this issue. What that Acetone did to the o-ring is not a surprise to me, it is nasty stuff. The fact that it is in part what makes up regular cheap Lacquer thinner / stripper has me wondering just what a good "slow" thinner is? Did the guy from Grex give you any ideas of what thinners to try specifically? Again, thanx for the information and the follow up.
  3. I can't find any tire on that link that shows the "HOLLEY M/T" on the sidewall. I'm thinking it is a fictitious tire that MPC included in the kit.
  4. From the MPC Dodge Dart Sport kit. Can anyone shed some light on just what these tires are supposed to replicate? I did Google them, can't see anything similar.
  5. Shawn, Nice build. I have this kit on the back back burner, (modeling ADHD). Love those Mopars.
  6. A database of available tires including size and quality ( also kits they can be found in) would be great. This could save some like myself and others from purchasing the wrong model. Yah, I did that.
  7. Lots of great tips here, Glass cloth is a great way to add strength. I realy like to use Sig brand glass cloth tape. It is not a adhesive tape but simply a ribbon of glass cloth available in various widths, usually 1.5 oz. per sq. yd. I realy don't like mixing small batches of epoxy so do things differently. First cut the glass to rough size and lay it onto the area you want to strengthen. Then flood it with styrene cement (I use Tamiya Extra Thin) rub it down. flood it again and rub it down untill it stays attached to the surface. This is seen in the first picture. Next, flood the Fiberglass with CA. I like to use Zap Plasti-zap. You can squeegee it out with what ever you wish, Finger wrapped in plastic bag, piece of plastic or cardboard. The second picture shows final result. Strong, quick and no need to mess around with epoxy.
  8. This has got to be my favorite track in the series, watched last years race for the first time. the streaming coverage is great and there are no commercials like regular TV. OH someone just spanked the wall, back to the race.
  9. You could try "Mr. Color Thinner" for lacquer. It is mostly Isobutyl Alcohol I believe. Anyway it is in a plastic bottle if that tells you anything. I have only used it once as a test to find a good airbrushable primer. Used to thin Mr. Surfacer 1000, 2 to 1 and it worked a treat. Next I'm going to try it with some Model Masters enamel. They also have a slower "leveling" version I'd like to try.
  10. I have relabeled all my Evergreen and Plastruct styrene with scaled dimensions for 1/25th, of coarse to the closest 1/4 inch. So 1/8th tube is relabeled 3".
  11. Bernard... thanks for additional information. The technology behind this is fascinating to me, the characters involved however are quite pathetic. There was a thread on the F1 technical forum with some info on hypothetical use of those electromagnetic wheels, and there possibilities in F1 racing sense they are trying to be more green.
  12. Harry, you are spot on with your "diabolically clever" one would think after so much scrutiny of doping of the athletes that they would forget about trying to cheat. So much attention to the athletes themselves they weren't looking closely at the equipment. An opportunity was taken.
  13. I really like that Land Rover, in my younger days working at a marina we used one equipped with a hitch in front to launch boats. the hitch on the front bumper and 4 wheel drive made things easer for me, I had no drivers license yet. The last defender just rolled off a day or two ago so it would seem some type of commemoration could be reason to put it out again.
  14. The first I have heard of this but apparently has been suspected for awhile. Now they finally busted someone for it. http://www.businessinsider.com/officials-have-finally-caught-a-cyclist-using-a-hidden-motor-in-competition-2016-1
  15. Tamiya extra thin cement is what I use, the applicator brush is nice and the bottle is less prone to tip over.
  16. Has anyone tried Alclad directly over black styrene ? I will do a test myself, I have have an old Lindberg gas tank cast in black and stripped of chrome. Update soon.
  17. I have searched the inter web and cannot find many instances of the successful use of these Alclad primers. I have only one idea to attempt before they get the bin. Some kind of lacquer retardant. Any ideas of what to try?
  18. I thought the key to Alclad was having a perfectly smooth black base. Wouldn't a clean smooth BLACK resin part be the perfect scenario?
  19. Excellent build. I think of all completed of these Ive seen, yours is my favorite. Nailed it!
  20. Just wondering for those parts like valve covers, suspension parts, or anything that would need to be sprayed with Alclad chrome. Would it be advantageous to cast them in black resin so you could skip applying a black base? Maybe this has already been tried.
  21. That second guy from the left looks kinda like David St. Hubbins with dark hair.
  22. I got tired of the lacquer base putty taking so long to dry and sinking afterwords. I just tried this on a current build and it shows promise. *Plasti-Zap CA glue mixed with *talcum powder ( on a scrap pallet using a Tamiya paint stirrer ) the talc seems to slow down the dry time so you have a surprising amount of time to work it. Dries quick,doesn't shrink and it sands quite easily.
  23. on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sanford-and-Son-Truck-Decals-1-24-Custom-FREE-US-SHIPPING-/311372797489?hash=item487f43d631:g:YMUAAOxyNo9SrkU6
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