MarvinGardens

It is what's left of the Tony Nancy 22JR two-car dragster set.

As was stated, it is at best a very poor mix of Mustang/Capri. 1979-82 Capris are pretty much externally identical. Interior-wise, 1979 will have the door handle down low, with the door lock pin in the middle of the door pointing forward. 1980 will have the door handle moved to the top of the door (where it stayed from then on) with the door lock pin still in the middle of the door pointing forward. 1981 was when the door handle and door lock pin configuration was finalized into what everyone knows as their locations (pin and handle high on the door panel). This kit has Capri bulges with the Mustang flares. To be a closer-to-correct Capri, you would have to sand down the Mustang flares and re-construct the well opening to better match the Capri profile.

Buckeye Scale Auto Classic (held in the Columbus, Ohio area) had two buildings this year. 50-ish more models competing and one whole building just for vendors. From what I heard from friends up that way, it was a better show than last year by a LOT. Seems just your area, and possibly who puts the show on, may be why the show is slipping. Listening to the participants/vendors seems to work when it comes to improving show attendance.

I would say it is more like a GT with a Cobra body kit.................

^^ All of which were written about/predicted in the short stories of Isaac Asimov. ^^

Inspirational work, as always, Mike.

Lee, your inspiration (prototype) sits on stretched '32 rails. You WILL need to stretch the kit rails as well, just like the 1:1.

What both Bill AND I were getting at is that certain paints and certain materials don't play well together. Since the original poster went and got the harder spoons for the color test, that is what mattered. I may offer up a word of advice here: What brand of paint are you testing? Reason I ask is that even on one of the harder spoons, I have had Dupli-Color leach through the primer and etch the spoon. It may have been my doing (I may have sprayed it either a bit too wet or without enough primer). Before you try the paint on the model, use a piece of the sprue the parts are attached to as a paint compatibility test. That way, you will know 100% whether your paint choice will work on your model. Having a model you spent so much time on destroyed at the paint stage sucks!

So you think, Bill. Sad life really, having to look down your nose at other modelers and give credibility to your life while doing so. :-( And while you are correct on some paints/adhesives containing those ingredients, it is the STRENGTH and amount of said chemicals that has the effect on styrene. You are NOT the only one with intelligence, get used to that.

Re-reading your post, AGAIN, the info you give was for his initial spoon (poly). Your later argument about material being important for compatibility is also negated by the original posters reply of using HARDER spoons for COLOR test, NOT compatibility. I get what you are saying, but it becomes negated by his switch of spoon material and his PURPOSE. And if you wish to continue the 'argument', we can take it to PM as his post doesn't need be messed up by what will ultimately become a wiz match.

2) Apparently you missed the entire premise of that answer involving sprue: It was NOT for a color test, it was to be used for a COMPATIBLITY test (refer back to SPOONS for color). 1) I have been in quite a bit of Aviation for the past 20 years (as it is my JOB), and I am well aware of repair procedures for most of the common composites (used in commercial as well as Sport aircraft structures). Most, if not ALL, chemicals used in that aspect WILL eat the weak 'polystyrene' our kits are made of (as quite a few of those chemicals are either MEK/MPK, Acetone, or Xylene/Toluene based). So, your comment, while valid when used in the pretext of use on styrene, is pretty much useless as you used it to describe what would be needed to get paint to stick to poly plastics. Since models aren't Poly, he likely won't encounter, nor need to encounter, these chemicals. So, my (and others) reference to using hard styrene spoons for COLOR TEST stands, as well as using the styrene sprue for MATEIALS COMPATIBILITY.

Without being/sounding like a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH, Ace, just what did you DO in the aviation field you keep bringing up? My PROFESSIONAL curiosity continues to be piqued by your repeated comments. While some good points were brought up about base material compatibility, hard plastic spoons are absolutely the way to go for COLOR TESTING if you want to see what the particular color will look like once out of its' vessel. When it comes time to test material compatibility, the model manufacturer was kind enough to supply you with all the test material you need.........sprue!

You know, I am an idiot. It is the '79-'81 Z28 sheet I was looking at and THAT is the one I need (1/24th scale). The color combos remain the same: the Light Blue/Dark Blue/Black combo is what I am looking for. Now, if others going full-custom with this same kit would like other color combos, I do have about 8 other color combo/ideas! 1980 Z28, but same colors: 1979 Z28 in the same colors:

NJ, Can you do the '79-'81 Firebird graphics in other colors? I have a Monogram kit that originally came with the Light Blue/Dark Blue/Black stripe combination. All I find replacements of/for is for the colors you offer. Being able to reproduce other color combos would be awesome.

And then there is also the Ford 2.3L............. And then the Folvo.......Ford 2.3L block with the Volvo B234F/R head. Wired just like the Ford 2.3L, as the Volvo has the same firing order/rotation as the Ford.

Mine merely run off with the expensive, fiddly bits of my builds (like pre-wired distributors and braided stainless hose material). Never will I ever have a matched set of wheels/tires either, as inevitably one will come up missing as it was 'used' for their exercise requirements!

Or the McGee DOHC conversion for the BBC!

The stock intake is correct, the race intake IS NOT. As pointed out, the race intake is missing the center intake feed tube (as ANY rotary feeds from the upper housing ends and discharges through the center of the plates (so, one intake port/siamesed intake ports/one intake port.... in that order)

Do Y'all have Easy-Off Oven Cleaner (Yellow Can) up your way? It's a pretty good paint stripper (depending on which type of paint's on there). Personally, Mopar B-Bodies don't look good with cut-up fender lips (Now, a widebody following the original body lines is a different story) and tacked-on flares. This is, however, just my opinion.

The Lincoln MKVII is based on the FOX platform Ford started using in 1978 (under the Grenada and Zephyr), while the MKVIII is based on the MN12 (in Lincoln-speak the FN-10) of 89-97 Cougar/Thunderbird origins. So, to use the MN12 chassis under a FOX car = NOPE to accurate chassis. Through the years, there have been some FOX kits in 1/25th that could be used, or even the later SN95 chassis (since she's just a stretched FOX anyway) for a closr-to-accurate MKVII chassis.

This is pretty cool, Jesse. Have Ya' done any more with it? How hard's it gonna be to move the entire rear clip back? Been thinkin' of doing one myself, but these kits are gettin' a bit harder to find for a budget.

I know one of the guys here used to make the inserts/lenses for the conversion (but I haven't heard back from him), so I will put this out into the general public: For the Revell 2015 Mustang Snap-Tite kit, who makes the decals or drop-in replacements for the headlights?

The engine is supposed to represent the 361 or 413 'B'-block engine. The valve covers in the kit are correct for the early 4-bolt covers/heads.

Nice looking FOX drop-top you have there! Grill, tail lights, lack of fog lights, and contour of the lower nose say 1983-early 84. The TRX suspension package was also dropped mid-84 for Fords 'Sport' quadra-shock set-up (on the V8 cars). As to the 'not much difference between the 1979 Pace car and the 83+ cars'................not true. They are quite different even though the exterior sheetmetal looks the same. I could list the differences here, but it would end up looking like a book!

Those sizes are JUST for the wheels (if the sizes listed by the seller are for just the rims and not overall dimensions).