jeffinvt

Jeeze Mike, give a guy a break . In those pics the frame was not connected to the rear end and the body/bed were just held on with loose tape. That has been taken care of and the frame is built and just needs beautification. Next step will be to remove some of the body rake, so it more closely lines up with the bed rails.

why so shiny, I thought you usually did really rust builds...

Take an AMT 53 ford flip nose(terrible kit), cut it to shreds and throw it in a bag with some 32 parts. Add a tube of glue, shake a while and... This is actually a rebuild of some thing I built a while back but was always unhappy with. Some may remember it, it was packing a V16 and was just all wrong in the way of proportion and flow. I think this is an improvement, and the blown nailhead fits way better.

It is just another revell merc, I lied... But I did re-chop the roof so it has a more traditional slope to the rear, and extended the front fenders and light buckets. Fadeaway fender line and some minor other stuff. My first try at a custom, so I'm pretty happy with it, lots could have been better done.

Monoped - Wheels and tires are from Modelhaus, I think the front are #110 and the rear #135? Not too sure... The taillights came out of the 64? Mercury kit, the recently re-issued one. Vizio93 - The kit started as a Revell 32 roadster, but a lot was done to it to get the stance and look. The rear is Z'ed and converted to a transverse leaf spring, the front of the frame has been wedge cut and bent up to get the right ride height. Flat head is from the 32 sedan kit, and the top is a modified peice from the Thom Taylor 34 ford. I do have the WIP somewhere on this site if you go to my profile page I think you can see it. Foxer - Pittsfeild??? In vermont or Mass?

Finally got a chance to finish one...

Jantrix, I think your talking about Quarter Eliptical springs. I have also tried to find reference on these and come up just about empty. I did however get a set of resin springs from Early Years Resin, now just need to do something with them...

Here is some shots of the ongoing body work, the roll pan is starting to take shape and only a little more work is needed to finish the headlight/fender mod. Now I need to see if the rear would benefit from a roll pan as well, it may be a waste of time as the rear is just about scraping anyway...

Bob, despite what my sub title on this build says I agree with you 100%. I built this kit box stock , other than a rear drop, and loved it...for a while. The Kit is perfect, great parts fit, and the ability for a newb like me to get their feet wet in the chopping dept. Revell hit a home run with this in my opinion, But how many of us can really ever leave good enough alone. It's more fun to build, than to assemble. Thanks for your comments. jeff

Thanks a bunch guys, this has been my most modified kit to date. I'm really having fun experimenting with this whole lead sled thing, usually build more along the hot rod line. The possibilities with these customs are endless, I keep coming up with more I want to do. Here is a pic of a stock Revell merc next to the project, I kept the chop subtle but corrected what I thought was the high spot above the B pillar. If you look at the shape of the rear side window you will see the change. The nice thing about re-chopping this is that there is no need to re-engineer the front or back glass as I have not touched the frames of them. In this second pic you can see the front roll pan I did to get the front to look complete. It amazes me that Revell left this area the way they did... Here is the front view of the roll pan, which was the custom front end out of the AMT 50 Ford vert with the duel canted headlight buckets removed and cut to fit. Still alot to do on the pan to get it looking right, but it's already better than nothing. Thanks again for the positive feedback, I'll keep this build updated from here on out. Jeff

Liottle update to the ever evolving build. Added fadeaway fenders, extended the front quaters and headlights, and dded lowering blocks to the front suspension, c-notched the rear to get the stance.

The thing is that the re-issues are energizing sales, to people who missed the golden years. As a new modeler this is some great news, I've wanted both these kits since I started building a few years ago. But not willing to get bent over the rail for one... Now I can grab them at a fair price, and all you old timers can build some from your horde until the real new releases come out,LOL.

I built this kit box stock a while back, and never liked looking at. After seeing some re-chopped builds I decided it was the roof I could not stomach. I chopped the roof out back, and added some mild custom flare with 55 pontiac bumpers and headlights from AMT custom parts pack. Not sure of color yet, I've bought about ten colors for it so far... Still experimenting with other grille options, we'll see what happens there.

HotRodAsourus, another thing to think about with the revell kit is that an additional chop of the rear roof will improve it's looks dramatically. It has a bit of a high spot around the B pillar, which can be fixed with the most simple of chops. This can be done without changing the glass shape front and back. It is a great kit, and will produce a beautiful model. The fit of it's parts is the best I've seen...

I found a link to Adirondak Modelers Mafia, but they seem to have gone the way of the Dodo bird... Looking for an active group in the Glens Falls or Lake George area, or in western Vermont for that matter.

Terrific job on the tank, that looks pretty pro... When are you going to start taking orders for them??? Nice solution, I ended up putting flat sides on the one I made cause I could not come up with the right curve.

definitely get yourself a razor saw, it will become your best friend for custom projects. X-Acto makes a good one, and Zona is another company that makes a good saw. They usually offer varying levels from coarse to fine, I would get one fine and one coarse blade for the handle. That should get you started. As for the styrene, I usually take the frame that I'm trying to modify to the LHS to compare it to styrene stock.

Some one else may have suggested this already, I have not read every response LOL. If you do not want to z the frame you could pie cut a small wedge in front of the firewall and rake the front end up a bit. Here is the result I got on my first try, if you like it I can take some pics that will show exactly what I did.

Pussiwillow, sorry I did not see this post sooner. I'll post my roadster solution, the coupe is an identical frame etc.. Keep in mind my frame has been heavily modified with a rear Z, and a raised front frame. I also changed the rear suspension, but it is esentially the same exact frame you are working with. First cut the trans tunnel from the rest of the floor, leaving the "foot board" attached to the tunnel. Next glue the foot board and tunnel in the correct position directly to the floor pan covering the cutout.. Now the body will fit over the frame, the interior panels will fit with NO cutting, and half of the firewall is done because you left the foot board there... If this makes no sense to you I can snap some extra pics to help...

Got it all fit together, just need to finish some details and then to paint. heres a pic of the taillights and the final look. Jeff

I have not been building much , but started this one last night... Nomad body with the back of a 55 p/u cab.

Cool stuff ya got here, especially that 40 ford... The rod is cool, very agressive chop on that one. Finish it some outlandish 60's style show carpaint and it will be great. As for the pictures, I usually just set the camera on top of my roll of tape for a little height and snap away. Also see if your cam has a MACRO setting, usually looks like a flower symbol, this will let you get very close and keep focus. Thanks for sharing, Jeff

Florian, thanks for the kind words. The wheel tire combo is Modelhaus 120's up front and 130's out back, both on steelies with chrome spyders ( to be added later). I wish I had the talent to paint the flying eyeball, but I'm not very talented at drawing, painting, etc...

Heres the next build from eyeball engineering rod and kustom. She's low and sleek, trying to keep this build a little more simple than the last. The top is a sectioned 34 ford Thom Taylor kit piece, and the suspension has been swapped out to a transverse spring style unit. I think I'm leaning towards Black with Gold wheels, and a tan top/interior. Thanks for lookin, Jeff

:lol: And I was just gonna say get a bigger motor for that boat...