keviiin86

Coming from using testors silver paint with a fine brush for all of my chrome trim and mouldings when I was younger to discovering a pen which applies with ease and arguably dries faster and can be handled (carefully) without smudging, I'd say molotow and it's variants can produce a pretty good result. I never liked bare metal foil and thought it was a PITA, so for me a chrome pen does just fine. Did the chrome trim around the windows of my nova as well as some other random parts, (fuel line from carb, thermostat housing, valve cover breathers, master cylinder cover etc).

Is there a reason they have to be those EXACT valve covers? they are pretty generic finned valve covers without any writing on them, you could probably find something very similar in the aftermarket. There's probably dozens of resin or 3D printed big block chevy valve covers to choose from.

Thanks! Because of my OCD I try to be as accurate and as era correct as possible with the parts I decide to use lol.

Welcome back, I just returned to the hobby too after 20 years, similar story and also we share the same first name lol. After watching some youtube videos it got me hooked again and decided to complete a model that I started building ages ago.

I took a 20 year break from the hobby and recently dug into my stash and found a couple cans had done this, of the 20 or so cans some dating back to the mid 90s only the newer cans from about 2011 had leaked out. Most were junk anyway though and wouldn't spray properly. I pitched most of them and had to start over.

Looks really good man, I like it!

Thanks, nice! got any pictures of it?

I just purchased the paint online, not sure if they could mix the paint that way, if I tell them to leave out the metallic it probably wouldn't be the same color, that's kind of what gives it a color shifting look from green to blue in certain light.

I know exactly what you mean, I see it all the time and I've kind of just dealt with it. Even the metallic model paints I've used in the past have the same issue of too large of metallic flake. I've never had the means to use an air brush so I'm kind of stuck with aerosol cans, if there's a specific brand that makes a more "scale" metallic paint let me know. But for this specific model I want to build I want it to be an exact match color-wise..so it kind of is what it is as far as what I have available to use.

I used express paint https://expresspaint.com/ to buy some automotive touch up paint in a spray can, you can order it in a touch up bottle with a brush, aerosol can or in a larger quantity for use in a spray gun and they list nearly every factory color and code imaginable by searching the year make an model. I ordered mystic teal metallic for a 98 trans am build I plan on doing soon and it is a spot on match. Tested it on a spare body I had laying around. It's a urethane paint so I had to clear it after..this is prior to wet sanding and polishing.

Very cool, love these era drag cars, everything so far looks awesome. Maybe I missed it but where did those decals come from? Some day I'd like to do a few lesser known drag cars from some local guys but I have no idea who would make decals for it since it would most likely have to be a one off decal sheet. Only thing I've noticed that could make it more realistic is those front wheels which I assume are from one of the old MPC super stock vega race cars just don't resemble the real deal cragar super tricks or centerline auto drags, they're just too wide for front runners. I've come across a couple aftermarket resin companies that make a great super trick and centerline skinny front runner. I bought a set from futur attraction but competition resin also makes some that look the same, maybe the same tooling? not sure.

Thanks, yeah they are some really nice tires, wish they had a slightly smaller size, something comparable to a 28"x10" slick but luckily I got these to fit.

Thank you! This is my first model in a long time..I don't remember the braided line and fittings being this challenging..but they sure fought me though lol

Thanks! That's what i was going for ?

Sorry, I have to revive this thread here because I was doing a little research about the kit differences between the revell chevelle and AMT 65 chevelle/station wagon and el camino as I was looking to build a replica of a specific car (pictured below) I was curious if the revell chevelle chassis would fit the AMT el camino since its much more detailed than the AMT..but the one thing stopping me from building it is that god awful AMT front end. The points of the fenders on the AMT kit stick out way too far compared to the 1:1 and the spacing of the headlights and trim on the AMT grille is just goofy looking to me. IMO I could look past the roof issue as the first thing that would catch my eye would be the front end of the car..and overall the revell kit is much better looking, so I considered robbing the grille from the revell kit and sanding down the points of the fenders on the AMT but doesn't look like the grille fits too well becasue of the width difference, so might have to figure something else out. I don't see where some people are saying older kits are more accurate..they all have their weird flaws here and there but overall new kits are way more detailed and better molded than the pre 80s era kits with chunky rear end housings molded into floor pans and innacurate engine parts etc. Anyways, here's the car I'd like to replicate Chuck Samuel's el camino, street raced around the chicago area and ran in the NMCA fastest street car shootout in the early 90s..believe it or not it was a low 9 second car..saw it at a few cruise nights when I was a kid, always had a thing for this car, love the fast ratty unassuming beaters.

Thank you, I took a 20 year break from building until a month ago..and I'm impressed with the level of detail you can get from 3d printers now that was impossible 10-20 years ago..the shifter and carb has insane detail!

Started with the revell 69 nova kit, added resin parts here and there such as the carb, valve covers, B&M shifter and magnaflow mufflers from VCG, tires and fuel pressure regulator are from futur attraction. The wheels, 9" ford and electric fan came out of the AMT 57 corvette street machine kit, intake manifold from an old monogram stock car kit with a scratch built carb spacer. Roll bar is scratch built out of styrene rod, added some length to the header collectors and header flanges that go into a scratch built X pipe exhaust made from solder wire left bare and scratch built traction bars. Engine is from the kit but cut off manual trans and added a parts bin th400. Body is painted in old model master ruby red over a black base and clear coated. After getting it assembled it dawned on me how much the car resembled a local legend's car (Palmer Lazarus) any older car guys from the Chicago area will know who this is. Paint color is very close to his..had I thought of it earlier I would have built a replica tribute car. (Added a couple pics at the end of his Nova). Enjoy!

thanks, I didn't know if I'd like the tan interior with the red, but it turned out nice.

Got it mostly complete, just have mess with the hood and figure out why it doesn't want to close all the way in front, then add the little decal on the edge of the hood and find another side mirror from another kit since the one from this kit snapped in half when trying to cut it off the tree. I'll have to find a good place with enough light and take some decent pictures of it and post it in the completed model section..I'm thinking I'll probably post it in the drag racing section.

Decided the interior was lacking a little and was going back and forth about putting a roll bar in but didn't like the kit roll bar, so I made up my own 6 point roll bar that fits in with the back seat..wasn't too fun building it around an already assembled interior but got it done. Also added some "tarnishing" to the headers to give them a stainless look as if they were run for a while and added a fuel line to the carb that I'll connect to braided line and AN fittings and a regulator once the body is on the chassis. Should be finishing it up soon.

Also I noticed the 1:1 car has billet specialties..not sure if you went with the alumastars as that the closest looking wheel you could find, but I just ordered some billet specialties street lites from 3d model specialties by Ron olsen (3d printed by shapeways)..he has them in either beadlock or non bead lock and look pretty realistic in the rendering. I'll see how they look when I get them soon.

I agree, realistic looking kit headers are hard to come by, I've scratch built a couple sets out of coat hanger (pain in the ass to bend but all I could find for the right scale diameter) but the revell 69 nova kit I'm building now had those same headers you have, also added some length to the collectors since they looked a bit short to me.

Thank you! the intake came out of one of the older monogram GM stock car kits, I added the carb spacer to give it a little more height overall.