keviiin86

Very nice! I'm partial to old corvette race cars, my dad has a 62 that he's had for over 50 years, raced it in the 70s and 80s and has always been more drag race oriented..runs in the low 11s now. I stashed away some parts and 2 revell 62 corvette kits to build a replica of his eventually.

To start off, I have several of these AMT 57 corvette street machine kits that I've grabbed parts from over the years so most of them are incomplete and for that reason I used the body of one to test some paint that I was going to use on a different build..but after painting it I realized I wanted to actually build it. Of the 4 kits I have, I only built one back in the late 90s when I was probably 12 years old. So I dug it out of a box and started to use it as a "mock up" for wheels and tires...it's not pretty but hey I was a kid when I built it lol. My plan is to make it a late 70s to early 80s drag car. Going to use the kit big block but switch the trans to a th400 since the trans in the kit is a 4L80e for some reason. I've got a couple different grump lump type scoops that i'll choose from for the hood and going to grab the removable hard top from an AMT 62 corvette kit I have. I'll probably leave the rear suspension as is but chop off the wheelie bars. Then add a 6 point roll bar and a bunch of details here and there. I've centered the build around the wheels/tires which I got from futur attraction since that's what makes the "look" in my opinion. I narrowed the rears a little bit so they fit the 11" wide rear tires better and added some lug nuts since the wheels had none. Trying to decide what color to paint them. I'm between anodized gold or the satin finish for the super tricks. But not sure what the best paint would be for anodized gold. Any suggestions, thoughts, comments??

Looking good! Where are those rear rally wheels and rear tires from?

Haha I know this car..saw it posted all the time on the Chicago petrol heads and car spotters page on Facebook. Car was at the muscle car and corvette nationals in the fall I believe.

I ordered some stuff from shapeways recently, although it was from a different designer (3D model specialties). Was pretty seamless, parts were printed quick and shipped out sooner than expected, quality was good, they offered two different grades of resin based on how much detail you desire. Parts were nice and as pictured.

Thanks! The slicks are from futur attraction, they're the 30x11s. Required some clearancing of the inner wheel tubs and shaved the inner 1/4 panel lips to fit.

This is cool! I'll be following this! I've always wanted to build the grumpy's toy VIII 70.5 camaro and figured using those two AMT kits is the best way to go, but his car was unique in that it started out as a full bumper car and was converted to the RS nose split bumper but did not have the larger endura rubber bumper around the grille...so it would be a bit of a challenge to fabricate.

Coming from using testors silver paint with a fine brush for all of my chrome trim and mouldings when I was younger to discovering a pen which applies with ease and arguably dries faster and can be handled (carefully) without smudging, I'd say molotow and it's variants can produce a pretty good result. I never liked bare metal foil and thought it was a PITA, so for me a chrome pen does just fine. Did the chrome trim around the windows of my nova as well as some other random parts, (fuel line from carb, thermostat housing, valve cover breathers, master cylinder cover etc).

Is there a reason they have to be those EXACT valve covers? they are pretty generic finned valve covers without any writing on them, you could probably find something very similar in the aftermarket. There's probably dozens of resin or 3D printed big block chevy valve covers to choose from.

Thanks! Because of my OCD I try to be as accurate and as era correct as possible with the parts I decide to use lol.

Welcome back, I just returned to the hobby too after 20 years, similar story and also we share the same first name lol. After watching some youtube videos it got me hooked again and decided to complete a model that I started building ages ago.

I took a 20 year break from the hobby and recently dug into my stash and found a couple cans had done this, of the 20 or so cans some dating back to the mid 90s only the newer cans from about 2011 had leaked out. Most were junk anyway though and wouldn't spray properly. I pitched most of them and had to start over.

Looks really good man, I like it!

Thanks, nice! got any pictures of it?

I just purchased the paint online, not sure if they could mix the paint that way, if I tell them to leave out the metallic it probably wouldn't be the same color, that's kind of what gives it a color shifting look from green to blue in certain light.

I know exactly what you mean, I see it all the time and I've kind of just dealt with it. Even the metallic model paints I've used in the past have the same issue of too large of metallic flake. I've never had the means to use an air brush so I'm kind of stuck with aerosol cans, if there's a specific brand that makes a more "scale" metallic paint let me know. But for this specific model I want to build I want it to be an exact match color-wise..so it kind of is what it is as far as what I have available to use.

I used express paint https://expresspaint.com/ to buy some automotive touch up paint in a spray can, you can order it in a touch up bottle with a brush, aerosol can or in a larger quantity for use in a spray gun and they list nearly every factory color and code imaginable by searching the year make an model. I ordered mystic teal metallic for a 98 trans am build I plan on doing soon and it is a spot on match. Tested it on a spare body I had laying around. It's a urethane paint so I had to clear it after..this is prior to wet sanding and polishing.

Very cool, love these era drag cars, everything so far looks awesome. Maybe I missed it but where did those decals come from? Some day I'd like to do a few lesser known drag cars from some local guys but I have no idea who would make decals for it since it would most likely have to be a one off decal sheet. Only thing I've noticed that could make it more realistic is those front wheels which I assume are from one of the old MPC super stock vega race cars just don't resemble the real deal cragar super tricks or centerline auto drags, they're just too wide for front runners. I've come across a couple aftermarket resin companies that make a great super trick and centerline skinny front runner. I bought a set from futur attraction but competition resin also makes some that look the same, maybe the same tooling? not sure.

Thanks, yeah they are some really nice tires, wish they had a slightly smaller size, something comparable to a 28"x10" slick but luckily I got these to fit.

Thank you! This is my first model in a long time..I don't remember the braided line and fittings being this challenging..but they sure fought me though lol

Thanks! That's what i was going for ?

Sorry, I have to revive this thread here because I was doing a little research about the kit differences between the revell chevelle and AMT 65 chevelle/station wagon and el camino as I was looking to build a replica of a specific car (pictured below) I was curious if the revell chevelle chassis would fit the AMT el camino since its much more detailed than the AMT..but the one thing stopping me from building it is that god awful AMT front end. The points of the fenders on the AMT kit stick out way too far compared to the 1:1 and the spacing of the headlights and trim on the AMT grille is just goofy looking to me. IMO I could look past the roof issue as the first thing that would catch my eye would be the front end of the car..and overall the revell kit is much better looking, so I considered robbing the grille from the revell kit and sanding down the points of the fenders on the AMT but doesn't look like the grille fits too well becasue of the width difference, so might have to figure something else out. I don't see where some people are saying older kits are more accurate..they all have their weird flaws here and there but overall new kits are way more detailed and better molded than the pre 80s era kits with chunky rear end housings molded into floor pans and innacurate engine parts etc. Anyways, here's the car I'd like to replicate Chuck Samuel's el camino, street raced around the chicago area and ran in the NMCA fastest street car shootout in the early 90s..believe it or not it was a low 9 second car..saw it at a few cruise nights when I was a kid, always had a thing for this car, love the fast ratty unassuming beaters.

Thank you, I took a 20 year break from building until a month ago..and I'm impressed with the level of detail you can get from 3d printers now that was impossible 10-20 years ago..the shifter and carb has insane detail!

Started with the revell 69 nova kit, added resin parts here and there such as the carb, valve covers, B&M shifter and magnaflow mufflers from VCG, tires and fuel pressure regulator are from futur attraction. The wheels, 9" ford and electric fan came out of the AMT 57 corvette street machine kit, intake manifold from an old monogram stock car kit with a scratch built carb spacer. Roll bar is scratch built out of styrene rod, added some length to the header collectors and header flanges that go into a scratch built X pipe exhaust made from solder wire left bare and scratch built traction bars. Engine is from the kit but cut off manual trans and added a parts bin th400. Body is painted in old model master ruby red over a black base and clear coated. After getting it assembled it dawned on me how much the car resembled a local legend's car (Palmer Lazarus) any older car guys from the Chicago area will know who this is. Paint color is very close to his..had I thought of it earlier I would have built a replica tribute car. (Added a couple pics at the end of his Nova). Enjoy!