Nicholas

Oops forgot the body picture, it’s B5 blue from MCW enamel paint, it will have a white vinyl top.

Well, as if I don’t have enough on my plate, I decided to join a group build off on Instagram, it’s a 1969 A-12 superbee here are some pictures of the work in progress, I put the rapid transit 70 Cudas on hold for now. I have one month to finish this. What did I get myself into??

very nice!

very nice! great job!

I have been stripping my bodies lately with brake fluid, I use enemal paint with Hardner, and it works well, after it comes out of the brake fluid spa. I touch it up at some 2000, 3000 grit sandpaper and then wash with Dawn dish detergent and scrub with a toothbrush prime and then paint never had any issues after.

i sold a few working used airbrushes i have had on e bay and so far no issues with them,and i have bought one on there a cheap badger 150,the air valve was junk,got a refund for it.

that is one of the better renditions i have seen of that car! the only thing i would have done different (please dont take this the wrong way),i would have used holly carbs and not used pie crust slicks in the rear ,but understandable if that is all you had to work with, well done!

tack mist coat to me came from people using rattle cans,i never subscribed to that theory with my airbrush painting, although i only paint with enamel,if i was going to use lacquer i would do a couple of mist coats and go slow/steady with the coats until i am satisfied with the paint job as in the past i applied too much too soon and got into problems with lacquer paint job. ,as far as enamel goes i only apply a initial base coat first then blast the paint on in multiple coats until im satisfied with the results(being careful to not lose body detail).

this reminds me of the aurora racing scenes 1/16 scale garage/funny car kits they used to sell back in the day!

that came out sweet!! ,after watching this build i have a mpc 72 cuda and also have a bunch of revell 1/25 kita and testfitted the chassis under it,thanks for the tip!,its 100x better than the mpc chassis!,now i have a dana 60 under it and better front suspension detail, i also have a harts parts resin shaler hood for it that will work out good

Some work on the 440 +6 engine

thats a good question,i guess probably about 10, basically they will be in the high impact/ and or my favorite colors that i like by plymouth, i did some 71 gtx"s in my top 5 colors on here a while back. the cuda colors off the top of my head are: plum purple,tawny gold,f-7 green(already shown in the completed section) citron mist, rally red, go mango, lime green, hemi orange, alpine white, and dark burnt orange, jamica blue, i may also do a limelight green, and sassy grass green.

yup and i wont have to pay crazy prices on e bay!

well done!

Here is the second barracuda I’m working on, this one is actually going to be a 440-6 pack car i’m using the hemi short block with a set of revell 1969 charger 440 heads and a six pack set up from Iceman 3-d The interior is pretty much done and I am working on the engine now, I also started on the third Cuda, which is a tawny gold hemi car, my first one in the series was the F7 green 70 hemi car that was featured in under glass section. The color of this car is purple with a white vinyl top.

came out very nice,well done

Me too! Then I wouldn’t have to pay so much on e bay!

thank you david! i have some with vinyl tops on them and i am even throwing in a mod top on one!

Well this is a first in a series i plan to build, all cudas in high impact/ my favorite colors builds this one is F-7 ivy green by MCW enamel paint, has fireball resin carbs, detailed engine, fireball steelrims/ poverty caps, was a fun build , looking forward to doing the rest

thanks for the responses so far, aside from the carcinogenic qualities, it seems that every show i go to the cars are so shiny its crazy!,i use mcw enamels, and the shine right out of the bottle when mixed with mr hobby slow dry lacquer thinner is just great in my opinion looks more on the line of a factory 70's muscle car,...as it should because it's actually auto paint!.. but i was wondering the flip side of using a 2 k clear, but the health reasons are scaring me

as the title implies,only AUTOMOTIVE type of 2k ,not the stuff the hobby shops offer,I am thinking of going that route as I go thru a lot of clear and the little bottles add up plus the hardner, but not sure if I will use a quart size container before going bad (including the hardner) so shelf life is important also! TIA!

Very nice! I missed the color what color is it? And who’s paint?

I did some research on my problem,looking back thru scale auto mags I read that auto motive polishes/treatments could be bad on a non cleared enamel paint surface,something about how it re acts to enamel based paint opposed to a lacquer based paint,so what I have been doing lately is that after I paint it and it flashes out,if there is no gunk/dust and it does not need to be wet sanded/polished,I just leave it be,the finish with the hardner added is very hard/glossy..if I need to wet sand,I do so,then go right to the MCW clear/hardner and clear coat...if dust gets on that, then I can wet sand it out and polish/buff with auto based products and the paint shines like hell,no more dulling down/hazy/foggy look.

Yes it’s the 1017e with hardner, I used to use the 10003e? I think one that looks like honey, kinda gold looking

I use the Mr hobby slow drying lacquer thinner and their hardner … NEVER. Fails to get a gloss shine,… what I have been doing lately is wet sanding the debris out then using MCW 2 k clear instead of their 1K yellow looking bottle of clear so now instead of trying to buff after wet sanding I go straight for the 2K and clear it I will say this I had absolutely NO. Luck with hardware store bought straight lacquer thinner it left a crappy finish.. use the Mr hobby self leveling thinner