Nicholas

Well this is a first in a series i plan to build, all cudas in high impact/ my favorite colors builds this one is F-7 ivy green by MCW enamel paint, has fireball resin carbs, detailed engine, fireball steelrims/ poverty caps, was a fun build , looking forward to doing the rest

thanks for the responses so far, aside from the carcinogenic qualities, it seems that every show i go to the cars are so shiny its crazy!,i use mcw enamels, and the shine right out of the bottle when mixed with mr hobby slow dry lacquer thinner is just great in my opinion looks more on the line of a factory 70's muscle car,...as it should because it's actually auto paint!.. but i was wondering the flip side of using a 2 k clear, but the health reasons are scaring me

as the title implies,only AUTOMOTIVE type of 2k ,not the stuff the hobby shops offer,I am thinking of going that route as I go thru a lot of clear and the little bottles add up plus the hardner, but not sure if I will use a quart size container before going bad (including the hardner) so shelf life is important also! TIA!

Very nice! I missed the color what color is it? And who’s paint?

I did some research on my problem,looking back thru scale auto mags I read that auto motive polishes/treatments could be bad on a non cleared enamel paint surface,something about how it re acts to enamel based paint opposed to a lacquer based paint,so what I have been doing lately is that after I paint it and it flashes out,if there is no gunk/dust and it does not need to be wet sanded/polished,I just leave it be,the finish with the hardner added is very hard/glossy..if I need to wet sand,I do so,then go right to the MCW clear/hardner and clear coat...if dust gets on that, then I can wet sand it out and polish/buff with auto based products and the paint shines like hell,no more dulling down/hazy/foggy look.

Yes it’s the 1017e with hardner, I used to use the 10003e? I think one that looks like honey, kinda gold looking

I use the Mr hobby slow drying lacquer thinner and their hardner … NEVER. Fails to get a gloss shine,… what I have been doing lately is wet sanding the debris out then using MCW 2 k clear instead of their 1K yellow looking bottle of clear so now instead of trying to buff after wet sanding I go straight for the 2K and clear it I will say this I had absolutely NO. Luck with hardware store bought straight lacquer thinner it left a crappy finish.. use the Mr hobby self leveling thinner

looking good so far!

i have done both, the only time it bit me in the a$$ was when the plastic had some swirls in it from when it was made,now a days i prime EVERYTHING, no reason not to, keep in mind you can get primer in white if you want to brighten up a base coat.

thanks for the reply,i dont think its specific to mcw paints,as it used to happen to testors lacquers,that i used to use,i agree removing the wax seems tricky and i probably dont want to chance it,so I'll probably leave it be.

Ok as the title implies, when I paint my models, I use MCW enamels, the paint job always comes out very shiny, needing no clear coat, but often times I get a little dust/ debris in the paint or mild orange peel so I need to wet sand it out, my issue is that after I wet sand it I buff/polish the paint, but what seems to happen is I always get a slight haze and the paint never looks as good as I shot it and didn’t touch it after? I use the novice #2 polish, and sometimes I used to tamiya fine polish, then follow it with Maguires, scratch X, and then a wax coat, but it never looks like when I freshly painted it and never touched it I guess my question is what the heck am I doing wrong, also my second part of this question is can I clean the wax and re-clearcoat it and if I can what can I use to get all the wax off it before I clearcoat it so I don’t get fish eyes? Thanks for all suggestions.

hi all,looking for the kit decals for the revell dodge charger daytona kit #2824,..or anything equivalent for the daytona from revell, i have other decals to trade or??? TIA.

really digging the a-990 super stock!,..need to get me these!

looking good !

smp decals is another place that makes racing decals,stock,super stock,gasser,ect ect

did you ever get this sorted out? what are you using for thinner to thin them?,i use either store bought lacquer thinner or mr color leveling thinner at a 8/4/2 ratio =say 8ml of paint,4ml of thinner and 2ml of hardner,as i use hardner because i dont have a dehydrator.i spray with a paashe h series airbrush with a #5 nozzle

i ma not familiar with that type of clear,does it use a hardner? i had the same situaton with MCW enamel clear,and hardner its a 1k type clear with no hardner, but i mixed some hardner into it and it took months to dry (i do not use a dehydrator),it may have been the hardner was too old and expired?

well done!

thank you jeff,yes the f-8 green is my fav also

cool build!

if painted i sometimes scrape and use c a glue,or sometimes no scrape and ca glue

These are a slew of builds I completed a couple months ago, these are painted with MCW enamel paint in the high impact/factory colors I like, what is not shown are the resin Dana 60 rear ends underneath all of them, I used fireball models, resin six pack, carburetors, and steel rims/poverty caps, I also made one into a hemi car go mango orange one! I made a couple of boo-boos on these you can see the air grabber decal for the hood is put in the wrong spot on one of them, I forgot to paint the front valance spoilers on one of them lol and I nicked the paint job buffing it out after I wet sanded it with my dremel tool UGH but all in all I’m very very happy with the way they came out! The colors I used are plum, crazy purple, F-8 green, go mango, orange, saddle, bronze. these are revell 1/24 scale 71 GTX kits, onward to my MPC 1/25 scale 71 roadrunners to finish!

who makes that winchester gray color? mcw has a gunmetal color in enamel that looks a lot like that color,i have 3 mpc 71 kits and thats one of the colors i will be using,your build came out awesome!

i use mr hobby leveling thinner,it has a retarder to self level and slow dry times down a bit but still drys fast and never have any issues shooting from my air brush,just this last week i experimented with store bought lacquer thinner and it works just as good but dries a little quicker, i use to use the mcw hardner for their paints, but since using the store bought lacquer i dont use the hardner as much now ,i got the tip from watching old donn yost videos