Marc @ MPC Motorsports

CAL, Is this the Eleanor project that you shared on the former Hobby Heaven Message Board eons ago? Glad to see it's still alive and kicking on your bench. And by the way, you might want to add your full name in your signature or Deputy Jairus will bust you and toss you in the slammer for board rules violations. Keep the pics coming!

Not going for the extreme low here. Just trying to duplicate the stance on the 1:1. Looks close to me. The AAR hood is just for these pics. The power bulge hood that I mastered is on its way from Reliable Resin. And since I know someone will ask, the rims are Aoshima Koenig Imps with deep dish lips and wide and wider Pirelli tires. Enjoy!!!

Here's a 1980 Mustang Cobra with the big snake on the hood.

Here's a pic of one in white. Is this what you're talking about? Keith Marks has those decals in all factory colors, including green. Contact Keith at mofobow@hotmail.com

Well, earlier this week I installed inner fenders and cowl from the AMT Challenger into the MPC body. Once attached, I attached the chassis with Microscale Krystal Kleer so I could check the hood clearance with the 6.1 HEMI. As it sits, it BARELY fits! I still need to fit the kit air filter assembly and/or scratchbuild a ram tube assembly with a cone K&N style filter. And, while the chassis is "glued" in, I'll be getting busy modifying the stance. More to come...

Olle, you can scratchbuild a bench using another rear seat and Model Car Garage has the photoetched emblems you need.

Here's the 6.1 sitting in the frame rails. It's a BIG motor and it will fill the engine compartment of this E Body. While it is a simplified casting, it will look good with some detail painting. It's going to be real close whether or not it fits under the hood. I'm betting it will...by a knat's eyebrow. I had to modify the K Member and the frame mounts to get it to sit properly. The factory exhaust headers barely clear the torsion bars (whew!) but I probably won't be able to use the Magnum's cat cons. Oh well...

Since I'm using the stock torsion bar front suspension, I had to convert the oil pan to a center sump from a front sump to clear the K Member. I also had to file notches in the pan bracing to clear the steering linkage. Here's how it looks from the underside. I now need to glue in the inner fenders so I can remove the bracing and check hood clearances. This is a BIG engine!!! I haven't checked it for scale, but it seems closer to 1:24 scale. I hope the intake clears the stock hood.

PICTURES!!! WE NEED PICTURES!!!

That's EXACTLY how I would do it, Bill. Another benefit is that with BMF, all the trim would match.

Back in the day, they probably ran a 10.00 x 15 slick or something similar and they were not tubbed. Today, they are back halved cars with tubs with 14 x 32 x 15 slick or comparable. I'm sure someone more "expert" than I has more accuract info. Bottom line...vintage replica will be non tubbed. Modern SS/AA car or a modern build with vintage decals would definitely be tubbed.

Ken, Email Don at ReliableResin@aol.com as he casts the dual scoop power bulge aka sugar scoop hood to fit the Johan Cuda. Tell him that I sent you. As for a donor kit, I would look to the AMT '70 Challenger convertible like I'm using on my Cuda.

You could try the go wing in white and if you don't like it, paint it black.

I now have the AMT 1970 Challenger underhood structures mocked up inside the MPC '71 Cuda body. I finished modifying the underhood parts over the weekend, then I spent last evening with some Easy Lift Off, toothpics, micro brushes, etc, removing the last vestiges of the Testors Gloss Yellow enamel that the purple pond did not remove years ago. While this has been a fairly simple upgrade, I've taken my time to get the fit and alignment just right. No pics of the front radiator and support but that part has to be modified in order for it to be installed after painting. It needs to be installed separately. I'll probably install the firewall before painting. The black lines on the cowl are from a Sharpie. I marked the fender lines, then sliced the cowling away from the assembly. This allows the rear edge of the cowl to match the curvature of the MPC fenders. Then the glass will sit properly inside the windshield opening. Enjoy!!!

Pro Stock became an official NHRA class at the 1970 Winternationals, but the concept dates back to late 1968-1969 when drivers wanted to start a headsup doorslammer class. Super Stock did not go away after the creation of Pro Stock.

Got lots of quality bench time today and spent that time on the Challenger chassis conversion. I showed you the Ford 9 inch diff yesterday. It is a modified piece from the AMT '70 Coronet Pro Street kit. Today, I shortened the chassis to match the Cuda wheelbase. The 1:1 Cuda has a 2" shorter wheelbase than the Challenger. I shortened mine about 2.5mm. After reattaching the separated chassis parts and cleaning up the joint, it was time to remove the underhood details from the Challenger and begin prep work for the Cuda body. I have the drivers side nearly finished and I'm ready to start the passenger side. I "welded" some .030" x .250" Evergreen strips to the edge of the inner fenders for attachment points. Because of the molded in grille of the '71 Cuda, I'll have to leave the inner fender assembly separate from the body until final assembly. Can't forget the rolling stock...Aoshima Koenig Imp's with MPC Motorsports deep dish rims and resin "Big n Little" Pirelli tires. Spokes will be black and the rims will get some Alclad Chrome. Enjoy!!!

Looks good so far. You might want to update your signature with your full name before Jairus Fife throws you in the pokey with Otis

Last night I completed the minitub project on my '71 Cuda and began work on the differential. The rear needs to be narrowed slightly(about 3 scale inches) to take advantage of the tubs. The Dana 60 that comes in the AMT Challenger is a little on the small side, so I'm substituting the reinforced 9 inch that is found in the AMT Coronet Pro Street kit. The axle tubes are .125" Evergreen tubing. I still need to relocate the springs, but you get the picture. Should be sufficient to handle the power of the 6.1 Hemi. Enjoy!!!

Believe me when I tell you that Frank's site was the first place I went before I settled on the Challenger chassis. When I saw just how much work he did, I immediately lost interest. Not that I can't do it, but that chassis that Frank did is a long term project all to itself. Thanks for sharing his site. Very useful.

Can you post a link to your photo hosting site? I would love to see your build with the Charger chassis and how you did it. I started to look at the Charger chassis but once I got it to fit inside the MPC 'Cuda body it has way too much overhang. I would love to know how you modded it. The Challenger chassis is way better than the MPC, but the Charger is even better still.

It will be red (Tamiya? HOK?) with black Fred Cady billboards and an argent silver grille, just like the XV development car. Rims will be Aoshima Koenig Imps with MPC Motorsports deep dish rims and resin Pirelli tires. Not identical to the XV's rims, but close enough.

Thanks Bill. I started with the '71 Charger chassis, but it will take a LOT of work to get it to fit. Besides having an even longer wheelbase, the rear is too wide and has too much rear overhang to fit the 'Cuda. I started to cut one down to get the rear width to fit inside the MPC body and switched to the Challenger when I saw how far it stuck out the rear.

Hell must be freezing over...MPC Motorsports is building a chassis WITHOUT metal axles!!! I've changed direction on my XV Motorsports '71 Cuda replica. I really want to put a 6.1 HEMI in it instead of building it curbside. Modifying the MPC chassis like I did on my Green Cuda is a lot of work too. So, taking inspiration from KDog and others, I'm going to use the chassis and underhood details from the AMT '70 Challenger. I'm starting with a kit that I bought in 2001 to use with what was my first resin body, a JF Challenger R/T SE. I lost interest in the project a long time ago, but not before I did a mild minitub on the chassis to allow slightly wider than kit stock rubber. The work I did six years ago was not to my current level and did not allow enough room for the wide Pirelli tires that I plan to use. So, I fired up my trusty Dremel and went to work. The first finished wheel tub is on the left. The white is a strip of .040 x .156 Evergreen styrene. The tan is some Squadron white putty that I used in 2001 to finish out the original minitub. In total, the tubs have been widened 3.5mm from stock. I left just enough room for the leaf spring. I'll have to narrow the diff to fit once I get the other side finished. Finally, after the other tub is widened, I'll have to shorten the chassis about 2-3mm to match the Cuda wheelbase. My current plan is to have that done by the end of the weekend. Enjoy!!!

A non-outlaw cowl hood for almost anything you will have to make yourself with a donor kit hood. Drag City Casting has a Stinger hood and a '65 Big Block Vette hood that will work for you.

No reason at all, Harry. How about this MPC 1970 Cuda body?