TECHMAN

Could be, in house, hobby room is 50yds away..... I never took that into account, JERRY better look to see if the patrol car is/isn;t metallic too. GOOD EYE 👍👍 DJ

JERRY Was looking thru my assortment of Tamiya rattle-cans, and as close as I can come to those colors (and it seems real close), look at the TS64 dark mica blue, and then the TS34 camel yellow for the other color. Would work for me......😊 DJ

After seeing this, I decided to "quiz" my local "tranny guru" who deals in GM transmissions exclusively, and a couple of the local "pros" who work for Ford dealerships. After talking to them about all the trans failures, I Don't believe there is a salesman alive, that could sell me a new "10 spd" truck, dang sure NOT for close to $100K!!!!! I gave away my (as the wife called it) pickup-collection when we moved here to Kentucky (did not need a batch of vehicles here). The '75 Ford F150 Supercab was the old "shop truck" for my racing engine shop, powered by a '76 Chevy L-82 350, and a beefed up Turbo 350. Put 287K on the truck, when the tranny had to be freshened, engine was pulled down, and was able to be freshened with rings/bearings and valve job. Put together in 1985, and WORKED up until 2020. Can't even begin to guess how many of those 287,000 miles were pulling an enclosed racecar trailer..... Tranny was built by a good friend back in Longview, known for quality work. With that said: If a person that "takes pride in what he turns out" can build a trans that lasts 35 years, being W O R K E D, then WHY can't a manufacture do the same????? As I see it: They don't want to, they want you to HAVE to replace it in 30-35K miles.... Sad state of affairs when companies that USED to take pride in trying to "out last" their competitors, now only want to "out sell" the others (by any means)...... Just my opinion..... DJ

That is one GREAT idea!!!!! I don't mind spending a few bucks for something usable, but most certainly wouldn't want to damage a quality tool using it for an "alternate purpose"..... But finding an old/worn out/damaged tool, and re-purposing it, count me in!!!! GREAT TIP!!!1 👍👍 DJ

Use a 12"x12" glass, had used for years in model room in Texas, when we moved here to central Kentucky 4+ years ago, built a 12'x12' "hobby room" in farthest corner of the garage. Went to a local "flea-market-mall", got a couple of used tables. The shorter one 2'x4' had a THICK formica (sp?) top in good shape, so decided to use it for the main building table. When I laid my chunk of glass down on it, found no "wobble"...... dig out a feeler gauge set, and only found one small area toward an edge that could get a .002" under the glass..... SO..... when building a frame (etc.), sometimes use my glass, sometimes not..... I got lucky (for $14) DJ

Learned something today: THANKS BILL for the lesson on Weber carbs. Now, I can tell the difference by looking at them. I had some that came in a model kit (that were said to be side-draft) but were actually down-draft...... Had some resin ones (side draft) that were cast by GARY DAVIS at the RESIN SHACK back 15-20 years ago (they were accurate), but was BILL that "set the record straight". Have built (over 60+ years) probably 1000+ Holleys/AFB's/Quadrajets/etc., but never became well versed (nor familiar with) the Weber carbs. Learned something new today, so the day wasn't a waste!!!! DJ

Superior job on the fabrication, looks "for-real" 👍👍 DJ

MARK I may well have a pair of side-draft Webers, but will be this afternoon before I get back from a doctor's appointment (a few hours away). If you still need a pair, will be glad to help you out. Let me know..... DJ

One of my favorites: (Credited to my secretary) Oats are ALWAYS cheaper after they've been run thru the horse......😊 DJ

Another person can always do the job "cheaper", he knows what his work is worth!!!! DJ

When you are doing (or building, or repairing) something, one rule ALWAYS applies: There is that, that is done absolutely correct, and then there is all the junk that is left over. DJ

S O R R Y for helping "de-rail" your original question, seriously. To try to help: If you are considering a racecar for the Nova chassis, you will be able to find several different bodies to use it under that were "close" to the same wheelbase (you can always google search the vehicle wheelbase of the body) and with a little "modeling skill", you can "adjust" the wheelbase on the Nova chassis to fit. Look forward to seeing what you build. DJ

First, let me say, I am neither a know-it-all, nor a "walking encyclopedia", BUT, I was a certified TECHMAN (thus the nickname) and worked meets at tracks sanctioned by IHRA, NHRA, IMCA UMP, and even Texas Motor Speedway (the NASCAR track)...... With that said....... Nova was a leaf spring rear suspension, the only way to "off-set" the wheelbase in the rear, was to either move the entire leaf spring (mounts and all), OR, (and I caught some cheaters at "circle-track" races), had welded the original "locater hole" and "re-drilled" a new on further back in the spring perch (driver side) and farther forward(Passenger side) to shorten the driver-side wheelbase (advantage on a circle-track). Drag meets that I worked, the "common" was to "play with" the front control arms to move one front tire forward, and the other side back. This gave you an "advantage" at the starting line (keeping the beams broken while the car was actually in motion) helping the driver to not red-light, and improving his/her reaction time. Thus, most sanctioning bodies limited the wheelbase variation to 2 inches. Have seen COIL spring cars that would "crab-walk" from being in accidents (street cars) and a few "dirt-trackers" that had "reworked" the rear control-arms (or mounting locations) in order to make the car "rear-steer" (where the wheelbase will actually change during acceleration/deceleration). The newer "stock cars" , modifieds, late-models, etc., this is the common set-up now. All things said: The Chevy Nova rear suspension will track straight IF nothing has been altered or damaged, and from the factory, both sides were the same....😊 Hope that helps... DJ

LIONEL I realize that you are not looking for "pre-drilled" distributors, but that may be the choice...... If you take a moment to look at RON COON RESINS, in the engine section, you will find some really decent distributors, with or without vacuum advance, 3d printed, and only $1.50 a pair. Hope that helps DJ

In the mid/late 70's, in Longview Texas, we had a "local" that had a 65-up Corvair with a Crown adapted 292 inch Small Block Chevy sitting mid-ship. Talked Steve into bringing it out to our local dragstrip one weekend, he only made one pass,(he wanted to see what the car would run), did not abuse the car, and ran a mid-12 second pass. Not "earth-shattering" now days, but in the mid 70's, for a daily-driven street car, that was pretty quick. The featured Corvair is one beautiful vehicle, thanks for sharing it BILL DJ