ismaelg

Although I don't buy many kits, maybe 6 cars and 4 aircraft in a year, I try to get them thru my local HS even if they are a few dollars more. For online I buy from Dennis at modelexpress, 1 or 2 a year to HLJ and some on Ebay. Any faster and Dennis would ship my order before I place it I have received orders from him in 3 days. Thanks,

Having it been another weekend I might have tried to make it.... That will certainly be great! Thanks,

Hi Mal, For this project I used Velocity Yellow from Cobra Colors. That's the authentic Corvette color for the C6R. However, the yellow offered in C5 and C5R is Millenium Yellow, which is a hint more "orangy" than Velocity yellow. This is Velocity Yellow and this conv is Millenium yellow. Not much difference, and it is even less noticeable in pictures. I haven't used it but I've heard people using Tamiya Camel Yellow as a very close match as well. Hope this helps! Thanks,

Welcome to the forum! That's ELEGANT! Beautiful build! Thanks,

Marcos, It turned out beautiful! Love the stance and wheels. Are you coming down to PR in Nov? I'd love to see it! Thanks,

Now it's finished! Love the setup as well!

Hello everybody! Here is a quick look at what's going on in our site: - We want to welcome our newest contributors: Bill Stowe and John Moore. Bill submitted pictures of his gorgeous 1957 Corvette SS and the 1957 Sebring racer Corvette # 4. Bill had the privilege of actually been there in the 1957 Sebring race and watched the SS, SR2 and the 2 production Corvettes go to battle! John submitted a picture of his nice '68 Street machine. Check it out in the gallery. Welcome aboard Bill and John! - Mike Wheeler submitted pictures of his beautiful '72 LT-1 convertible Check it out in the gallery. He also submitted updated pictures of his C6 convertible that was posted previously. - Hessel Van Der Zee submitted pictures of his cool Eckler's Corvette and Revell's California Custom Corvette. Check them out in the Street and Custom gallery. - Jeff Johnston submitted pictures of his beautiful 1978 Indy Pace Car replica. Check it out in the Pace Cars Gallery. - I have received a few more submissions, updated pictures and more. I'm working with them as quickly as possible. If you have submitted something in the last few weeks rest assured I'll work on it. I've been very busy lately. As always, if there is any error or correction, please let me know. Happy Modeling! ScaleCorvettes.com Here are a few samples of the updates: Thanks,

Welcome to the forum! What a nice tribute! You certainly captured the essence of the intimidator's ride. That sad day, Feb. 18 2001, I discovered that I was not a NASCAR fan, but a huge Dale Earnhardt fan. Haven't watched a Nascar race ever since. Thanks,

Beautiful! Those Fujimi kits are certainly exquisite! I can see that engine and transaxle in a hopped up VW... Thanks,

Somehow I missed this thread yesterday. I haven't read Bill's response so this may be repeated. This topic can be very extensive. But I'll try to be short. First of all, the 150, 280 and 320 grits are too coarse for modeling use. I suggest to use 400 and up. You mention you stripped the paint. I assume there is no damage to the plastic. Try to remove as much as possible of the paint without causing any damage to the body. If you sand it too much you will eventually take away details and distort the surface. Once all or most of the paint is off, wash it and make sure it is clean and dry before proceeding. You don't mention what primer you have. Make sure it is compatible with plastic AND compatible with the paint you'll use. Lay down a light coat of primer and let it dry. Wet-sand it with 400 or 600. This means use plenty of water, but work slowly. Make sure the surface is smooth and then apply more primer. Once dry, lightly sand it with 600 or 1000 grit paper to smooth it out. Then you are ready for color paint in a similar way. I know this is very generic, but the most important advice I can give you is: Do not go to any further step until the current step you are in is absolutely the best it can be. The biggest mistake you can make is doing a lousy job on a particular step hoping for the next one to compensate and cover it. Regardless of what you use: rattle cans, airbrush, enamel, laquers or unobtanium, the key to a good paint job is NOT to move forward until the current step is as good as it can be, and making the next step virtually not needed. What I mean is that no step can cover for a lousy previous step. Primer will not cover mold lines or bad body work. Paint will not cover rough grainy primer, and clear will not fix blotchy paint. On the contrary, problems are usually amplified by next step. It is tempting to shoot clear or color before been ready for it, but at the end you'll end up either with a less than desirable result or doing it all over again. I hope this helps. Let us know how it goes and feel free to ask if you have any specific question. Thanks,

Ohhh Brian, that's a different story! A 365 GTB4 lightweight racer!!! Will that be yellow like the Ecurie Belge cars of '72? Love it! Keep us posted please.... Thanks,

Looking GREAT my friend! Hope to see it in person soon! Now, about that Ford sign on the wall....... Thanks,

Very nice Efrain! Those Phat Daddies wheels with the Pegasus brakes are very nice! Nitido mi pana! Gracias,

Hello Nic, Sorry for hijacking my own thread but are you Nic Henson from the HHMB? I'm also following the Audi R10 thread and I thought it could be you. Was it you that designed some of the C5R aftermarket parts? If so, did you ever finished the C5R? I have all those parts to do Earnhardt's 2001 Daytona C5R. If you are not, Hello anyways Thanks,

The Fujimi enthusiast kit is in a class by itself. It is also hard to find and way more expensive. It is almost unfair to compare it with this one. The problem with the Fujimi is that it is so complex that many modelers end up giving up interest and putting it away. Like Bill said, not that it is hard to build, but it takes so long to build and a lot of effort goes into things you'll never see. Like the name implies, you have to be very enthusiastic to finish it. It is definitely the way to go if this car subject is really really important to you. But if you just want a decent shelf model of the car, that can be built rather easily, the Testors/Italeri is not a bad kit. That's my particular case. It can actually be finished within my lifetime . I believe Revell Germany will reissue it if they haven't done so already. One Fujimi enthusiast kit I have and plan to build someday is the Lambo Countach LP5000S. The quintesential dream car of teenagers of the 80's (like me). It has over 240 parts and I'm sure I can add a few more Thanks,

Geez, Just what I needed! More projects of cars from Atlanta 2006! I think I'll get at least 1..... Thanks,

Ayala! What a cool project! Are you riding it on the Paseo tablado de Piñones? Very nice! Thanks,

David, All I can say is THANK YOU for sharing. "Impressive" is an understatement! Thanks,

Hello, I just received by mail one of those semi grail kits that for some reason, eludes you for a while. I may be in the minority, but I usually prefer coupes over convertibles. This is no exception. While the Daytona convertible is a cool car, I prefer the more serious look of the coupe. This is the Italeri kit in a Testors box from 1990. A quick glance show a mint kit and the wire wheels are very nice. There is some magic about front mounted V12 engines..... Here is a local one I've seen at shows: Two more and I'll be done buying prancing horses for the street: A 250 GTO and a 599 Fiorano. yeah right.... Thanks,

Nice as usual Brendan! Very nice scheme.

Great build James! Great color and excellent CF work. Nice.....

Hi Pat, Thanks for your comments. The white car was debuted in Sebring as Fellows farewell car. It was car # 3 and had that paint scheme for that race only. However, Compuware agreed to enter a third car in Mosport last weekend as car # 33. That was the white car driven by Fellows and Andy Pilgrim. Having no competition in ALMS GT1 this year, I certainly hope they race it again. There is a very good chance I can make it to the Atlanta race this year. I sure hope to see it. But been a long endurance race, I don't think they will enter three cars in that race because 3 drivers are used per car, instead of the 2 of the other regular races. But I'm available if they need a backup driver... Take a guess at what would be in my workbench as the next C6R.... Thanks,

Great build as usual! I admire your work with race cars and this is no exception. Thanks,

Anybody know if the HRM transkit is out? Thanks,

Looking GREAT bro! I have one in my stash for "someday" building it in blue with white/blue interiors. Thanks,