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That's a great kit! Nice color choice as well! I finished mine a few months ago. My GT3 I gave up on Zero paints as I never got any response to several emails I sent asking about availability and shipping info Thanks,

I'm not into hot rods, but I think the front tires may be too big for that car, both height and width. (That would be a handful to steer in 1:1) I would rather use a bug catcher over the carbs but that's just a matter of personal taste. Thanks,

My sister lives in Chelmsford, only a few minutes from Hobby Emporium. Whenever I visit her I HAVE to stop there. It's a great hobby shop...

Hello, Detail Master has a set called interior junk (DM-2380) that has keys among other stuff. Many other kit specific PE sets also include keys. Here are some of my models with keys Thanks,

Personally, I wouldn't go with those starter kits for several reasons: 1: They are not consistent 2: You will not learn anything about airbrushing because they are single action external mix 3: You may get frustrated enough to forget about it 4: You'll spend a fortune in those cans However, you don't have to spend a fortune on a real setup. I bought a low cost airbrush (copy of a Badger 150) that is dual action internal mix, and a portable air tank with a Craftsman regulator. That was about 15 years ago and that is still my current setup. Only that instead of filling the tank in the gas station now I have my own compressor. I spent about $40 then. You can probably do that now for about $60 or so. Just my 2 cents... Thanks,

Hello, Resin is arguably the backbone of the aftermarket in this hobby. In short:Since plastic injection is a very expensive industrial type of thing, rubber molds are made from custom, modified or hard to find parts, and then the molds are used to duplicate the parts. The molds are filled with a 2 part mixture of resin and hardener. When cured you have a perfect copy of the part and the mold can be re-used. Of course this is an over-simplification of the process, as it is quite labor intensive. The resin is very hard and quite different from plastic. For starters, plastic cement does not work on them. Plastic cement works by melting the plastic on both parts and resin is totaly inmune to it. Superglue is recommended for resin parts. Since this is a very manual process, sometimes a bit of cleanup is needed. Parts may have some flash or some pinholes that need to be filled and sanded. Resin can be sanded, drilled, tapped etc. After the part is carefully cleaned, sanded and in primer, then it can be treated like any other part. It will take any paint etc. There are many companies (usually small, many times a one person show) that offer resin parts ranging from simple to extreme, form good to out of this world perfect, from cheap to the very expensive. Many of them are regulars here. We can write books about resin, but that's about it from 50,000 ft. Here are a few examples: From small parts like these Z06 air intakes from Perry's resin: to hoods like this from Time Machine resin: To bodies like this from Perry's resin: To complete kits like this from Aardvark and this one from Quick Skins to a million others. I hope this helps get your feet wet Thanks,

Hey! That's my neighbor's car! Cool color on a cute car. Thanks,

It looks beautiful! I know 1 or 2 resin casters that would be willing to do the seats, but that would take time. Email me if you want to discuss it. Thanks,

I updated the C6R thread but I can't find a way to modify the title to reflect the date of the update..... Can this be done? I can edit the contents but not the title. Thanks,

Hello, Progress has been very slow. Modeling time is really suffering these days. I was out of town for 2 weeks and now I'll be out of the country all next week on biz travel. But at least I was able to finish the interior of the C6R. It may need a touch up here or there but it is pretty much done. Quite different from box stock I want to eventually build a box stock to display next to it. I like to treat each subassembly as a separate model in itself. So I feel as if I finished one Air ducts, carbon fiber, toggle switches, mesh nets, machined shifter, cool can top and steering column, wiring, plumbing, Motorola radio, steering wheels detached, racing harness etc etc The separation line in the dash is correct. It comes apart for servicing. Photographing this was quite a challenge since everything is mostly black. This means nothing will be seen once the car is assembled Keep in mind these pics are actually larger than actual size. Thanks,

Hi, Not much to add to Bob's excellent response. But I want to share something close to the topic. Regardless of what you use: rattle cans, airbrush, enamel, laquers or unobtanium, the key to a good paint job is NOT to move forward until the current step is as good as it can be, and making the next step virtually not needed. HUH? What I mean is that no step can cover for a lousy previous step. Primer will not cover mold lines or bad body work. Paint will not cover rough grainy primer, and clear will not fix blotchy paint. On the contrary, problems are usually amplified by next step. It is tempting to shoot clear or color before been ready for it, but at the end you'll end up either with a less than desirable result or doing it all over again. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt Another benefit of doing it right is that you'll end up using far less material. Hope this helps, Thanks,

Hello, Using PE (photo etch) hardware is the best way to go. There are many options available. However, you can also made them with thin styrene plastic. Cut the part in a bell shape and then drill a hole in the middle. You can "square" the hole with a #11 blade. Then you can either paint it chrome silver or use metal foil. That's how I did this one a few years ago. As for the latch (or whatever the receiving end is called), I make a wedge shape using a flat toothpic and paint it. Then I add some red paint for the button. Keep in mind this picture is many times bigger than actual size. It looks better in person Hope this helps. Thanks,

Great looking car! Everything about it is cool: the conversion, stance, color etc. The conversion looks so natural! Welcome back to the hobby! Thanks,

Simon, About time! Looking really good. Here is a picture I took of that car before the teardown back in March in our BBQ get together : Thanks,

Hello, As Simon said these shows at Racer's that Abraham puts together are very nice and relax. Just models, snacks and drinks. Unfortunately I missed it because I was just landing from Florida. Thanks,

COOL!!! The Modena is my all time favorite Non-Corvette car! Based on what you did in the F430, this one will be a knockout. Will certainly follow up closely. Thanks,

LEON!!! All bow to the master! I miss you oh my lacquer Zenzei master black belt..... Thanks,

Hello, You may remember my post a few weeks ago about primers. I tested Nason 421 primer and initial results indicated it was a good replacement for Plastikote. Well, I did more tests with it and ran into a problem: I used Nason primer on a Revell Cadillac STS-V uptown body to test how it sands compared to Plastikote, which is a beauty to sand. When I was going to sand it I noticed it lifted in a small area. Curious, I taped a strip of masking tape across it and pulled: ALL THE PRIMER PULLED OFF. I thought it could have been improperly cleaned surface, so I cleaned it and sanded lightly, re-applied primer and long story made short same thing happened again. It did not happened in the C6 Corvette I tried first. I tried the tape several times on the Vette but it did not lifted. Why one of them and not the other one? I have no idea. So the Nason primer is now quarantined until further notice. It seems it doesn't bite into the plastic enough to stick. We may now return to our regularly scheduled programming, already in progress.... Thanks,

Very nice! The color is beautiful! I'm glad you were able to finish it despite the earlier setback. Well done... Thanks,

Like others have said, Tamiya tape is my favorite masking medium as well. The stripes on this car, both the big and the narrow ones, were masked and painted over the blue paint using Tamiya tape and plastic bags. Thanks,

Just a word of caution: Invisible tape is usually stronger than masking tape. I used it once years ago and when I removed it, it lifted the paint below. You have to be very careful taking it out. Thanks,

WOW That's cool! That engine alone will make this kit fly off the shelves...... hmmm how about a resin Corvette body on that kit?.... hmmmmm

Hi Antonio, I went to both JR and JB, but unfortunately for us, they are both mostly dedicated to RC. No aftermarket stuff, just a few kits. I only bought a Revell Corvette kit and a couple brass tubes... Thanks,

Cool project Darin! Looking forward to see its progress. Thanks,

Thomas, Those are GREAT pictures! Thanks! I saved them all! I see many subtle and not so subtle changes between chassis #3 and 4 (2006 cars # 3 and 4 respectively) and the current 2007 cars (chassis # 5 and 6). I was out for 2 weeks but I hope to resume working on this again pretty soon. Regards,