Oldmopars

I figured I would put this here in its own thread now that I have it done. As with the other grills this will be offered through Texas 3D Customs. He does excellent quality prints and I know he will print them better than I ever can. I printed these with the turn signal lenses installed, but they are a separate part, however, it will b up to Charles if he wants to offer them this way or not. The quality of my print is not great, I have been having issues, but T3D Customs will do a great job. Ignore the lower section, this was just a test.

So, I think I have the final grill that will be available soon through Texas 3D Customs. Please do not judge this grills print quality, I have been having issues getting prints to come out right. The drivers corner is flawed, but you can see what it looks like. As I stated, and will state again, Not only do I not have time to print these, clearly I can design, but suck at actually printing stuff. I will leave that to the experts. I added the headlight buckets, and the lenses are there too, but not shown as I have not run a batch of clear yet. However, clear sheet with some lines scribed on the back would also work fine. I deepened the dividing lines between the grill, headlight buckets and valance. The one pictures has been primed and a little panel wash to show details.

No offence taken, it has been a real learning curve for me. I now have a much better understanding of why kit manufacturers make things the way they do, and I have a lot more respect for the "Crappy" AMT kits from 40-50 years ago. I have the luxury of a great 3D CAD program, they had to use pencils, paper and clay models. I'm shocked things look as good as they do. They had great talent.

I tell you what, next time you swing through Yakima Washington, I will. However, I am more likely to be in your neighborhood then you in mine.

Yes, you are correct, see my post above.

I am very aware of that. However in order for them to print, the grill has to be thicker in depth. So, to get the lights to have the right "Look" once installed, they have to be notched like that. If I did not put the notch in them, they would be recessed into the grill way too far and look silly. See below, with them installed, they look correct. One issue with scale models is that you can't always copy the real thing. Styrene or resin, you have to give up some things, or make changes to create the right look, in scale. In real life the grill is shelled out hollow on the back side, I could draw it that way, and probably even print it. However it would be so thin and fragile that you would snap it apart just getting it off the supports, let alone trying to handle it and install it in a car.

I would be interested in the plans. I think I could 3D print something that would work well. I don't have a mill or lathe, but I do have a printer.

Ask, and you shall receive. Now they are separate parts. It will still be up to the printer (not me) to decide if they want to do it that way.

To be clear (no pun intended) I had yet to respond and say yes or no. My plan is never to print these, but to offer the file to someone that can. I can make the lenses a separate part, it will be up to the printer to decide if they want to offer it that way or not. I have a bottle of clear resin, I've yet to play with it at all. So, I have no experience with clear.

Already done. And they look like your last picture.

I added a bumper and valence panel. The bumper and valance are fit together but separate part for painting ease. I think the grill is an 85, but it gets kind of hard to tell with all the options they had back then. If you know for sure, please let me know. It is modeled after a real grill, just not positive on the year.

From the pictures of all the carbon fiber you are going to need to do, you may want to look and see if there is any Hydro-Dip carbon fiber print that would be the right scale look. Hydro-dipping would be a lot easier than attempting to form flat decal sheet over complex curves. 2 things: 1. I will watch with interest, I think this will be fun to watch and cool build. 2. Better you than me. A build like this would require me to seek mental professional help. A bunch of Carbon Fiber Hydro-dip options here: https://watertransferprinting.com/product-cat/hydrographic-film/carbon-fiber/page/2/

Don't forget if you are upgrading the AMT Vans to a different year, be sure to add or remove the extra side bump that was added at some point. Some have it all the way (newest) some only behind the doors (Mid cycle) and some none at all (earliest).

I promised I had not forgotten about the G10-G20 Chevy grills. So, here is a rendering of the first one. I promise it is not flat like it appears, it has a peak in the middle just like the real things, but it just does not show up very well when rendered in 2D. There will still need to be a bumper and valance made. The lenses would be separate parts (4) printed in clear resin. Turn signals will be molded in.

Those wheels are a huge improvement. The whole build is wonderful, great job.

WOW, and thanks for posting that. I think I got some vomit on my computer screen. What were they thinking?

Cool, and interesting that you post this. This is what I do for work. I travel around the world installing, fixing and training people to use WaterJet cutting systems. I have some waterjet cut parts on one of my builds. It's an amazing tool for cutting a lot more than bubble windows.

What is odd about this is, if you had asked me I would have said the truck is 1/24 and trailer is 1/25 because the trailer looks small behind the truck. I find Italeri tends to look bigger also. I have a 1/25 AMT 359 Pete and an 1/24 Italeri 359 Pete. Side by side there is a very very noticeable size difference. The Italeri dwarfs the AMT.

Very cool. I will also be watching. BTW, if you wait another month or so, the Gar-Wood packer will be on the shelves(or Internet). I love to scratch build, but the kit would save a bit of time and a lot of styrene.

If you do decide to sand it instead of replacement, I would suggest using 1000-1500. 600 will quickly take off details and ruin the body. Finer grit will take longer, but give you a better body to work with in the end. However, I just picked up this kit at Walmart and spent about $25. New, virgin plastic. I would have to have some sentimental attachment to this old body before spending this much effort and time to fix something I can easily just replace. While I am very much in favor or recycling and reusing, etc., I also know when to just move on.

How is the body? I know it seems silly, but I could care less about the ramp part. I ordered one to get the F350 Chassis. As long as the body and hood are OK I will live with it.

Now available on Cults. If you don't have a printer, you can download it and find someone that does. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/1-25-scale-8-foot-bed-for-1960-1966-chevy-trucks

I was asked to do the grill for the Chevy S-10. I though I would update the progress here in its own thread so it is not confused with the other thread I have going. I have it done with no headlights, however that is an easy add. If there is a demand for these, I will see if someone else will print them. I can not print them. I repeat, I will not be printing and selling these. Or, if there is a resin caster that would like to run with these, I am all for it. I was lent a resin grill from someone else. I understand this grill is NLA. But, you can see that the printed grill is far better detailed than the older cast one.

Do you mean one of these?

To all that have asked for the Chevy/GMC Van grills. They are the next on my list and hope to have something for viewing next week. Once I do one, the rest will be easy as they are all the same outer shape, just the centers are different. While I will do the Mother Jugs and speed grill. I am guessing there will not be a lot of demand for it, or am I wrong?