Oldmopars

I know custom 3D parts are possible, I do them. But does anyone do custom PE? I would love to get some 1:16 scale Willys scripts made for my Takom Jeep. I could 3D print them, but there would be several steps to really get what I want. PE seems the better route.

I love 1/8 scale, I have a bunch. I just got the new Firebird, several Vettes, Camero, 32 Ford, some T buckets and several extra engines. I look forward to seeing what you do with them.

I have not been hearing good things about this kit. I have one, but it is still in the box. What issues are you all running into? I have been very excited to build it, but it sounds like it may be more challenging that I had planned.

I love it. Tell me more about the scanner, the software and how you go from A to B. I am very interested.

Looking good, that C6 looks good on there.

Very cool. From looking at this Jeeps design, I wonder if it's more of a support truck. It gets down to the water and pumps up to the regular trucks. None of the ones I have seen have any hose reels, and no water tank. I may do another one that is a Brush truck with water tank. Could be another "kit" of parts.

Between learning Fusion 360 and owning a 3D printer, I have found I can create almost anything. It has really opened up what I can do with a kit. I still like old school scratch building, and sometimes it is faster. But Fusion gives me the ability to print things in details that would hard or impossible with scratch building alone. Also, it's not any faster. I spent at least 10 hours designing, and 16 hours printing. But, I enjoy it.

This is the basic idea. Also see: https://www.cj3apage.com/index/Fire_Jeeps.htm

Takoma has recently released the exceptional 1:16 scale WW2 Jeep G503 MB. I wanted to do something a little different with it. So, I designed and printed a Howe Fire Truck Trans kit. I still have some parts to make, and a few parts to reprint, but here is where it is at right now. The box on the back is one peice with the upper rails, basket and side rails separate. I also made a siren, several nozzles, suction screen and Fire extinguisher. Doors on both sides of the box are separate parts and could be hinged. For the front I created the pump. I don't remember the name, but it is what is used on these trucks. I still need to design a front bumper and extensions, the front hoop for the ladder rack, and the ladder and rack. I had to cut out the back of the body, as this is the way the Howe is built. While most of the Howe Jeeps were built on the CJ, I figure this would be an Air Force or Navy owned Jeep. Or, one made for the military, but then sold to a civilian Fire Department. I will be making CJ headlights, tail lights, and blinkers to do a CJ conversion. A little body work is all that would be needed. All 3D printed parts are still rough out of the printer and need finishing.

I was at a trade show recently with my company showing off our waterjets. I needed some material to cut on a small machine and we found some Sintra. It is nice stuff, cut great. I think it would be great for dioramas.

This so cool. I have also been working on mine. Creating 3D parts for it. I love all the little details you have added. It looks like a Jeep someone found and modified for trail use. Great job.

There is an issue with 3D printing. Everyone wants an "Accurate" version of whatever engine they seek, however finding accurate dimensions and drawing of these engines is sometimes not possible. I have drawn engines from original blueprints. This allows me to ensure that the engine is accurate and to scale. However when those do not exist, where do you even start? I have done a lot of searching and I can find a million pictures of the GMC V6, but nothing other than some dimensions that are based off of vague reference points. They will say it 28.5in long, but from what to what? If someone can find me a blueprint type drawing of a GMC V6, or any other engine you want for that matter, I would be happy to draw it up. But, without it, the best I can do is wild guesses from internet pictures. I am working on a Ford inline 6 right now that has me stumped for this very reason. Then I look for pictures of it and the pictures all vary and do not differentiate between different years, bores, etc. Without accurate drawing, the engine will look only vaguely like the engine it is supposed to be, and likely not much better than the plastic lump that came in the kit. So, the issue is not lack of interest in doing the job, but lack of technical data to do the job in a way that people would actually want to buy it.

I look forward to the Jeep build thread, My buddy and I both have that kit and are both at the point of fully assembled, waiting on paint. I am going civilian Red Fire Truck/Brush truck. I can wait to see how you did the wheels and where you got the tires.

Very nice beverage box, did one a few months back and did the drop frame so I could have an open side door.

Way to go, I figured it was something simple. Be sure to show us what you made.

Did you ever get it figured out? I am no expert, but I have learned a lot from my many failures. I would love to see you get if figured out. There is a learning curve. At first I think I was 50% or more failure rate. Now, I think I am closer to 90% successful, but failed prints still happen. However I am getting better at identifying possible failures before they happen because I have seen it fail before. Some parts I look at and just say no, not gonna happen. As I get better, I venture into harder prints, but going in I am prepared for it to be a learning opportunity (read failure). Anyway, let us know how we can help.

I have the Eco Tank and I have no issues with decal paper. Try a different paper

I have heard really good things about this kit.

So, quick VW history. Up until 1971 the VW Van, or Type 2 had an engine that looks like the Type 1 or Beetle engine (there are some minor differences). This engine was available in markets other than North America till production ceased. However, in NA and maybe a few other markets, the 1972 Van/Bus got the engine from the Type 4. This is the 411 and 412 engine. Also the same as the 4 cyl Porsche 914 with different heads. This is the same basic engine as the Porsche 912e. While in 1:1 the VW and the Porsche engine are somewhat different, in scale it would be hard to tell. So, if you wanted a "Pancake" engine like in the 72+ Bus/Van you could use a 914 or 912e engine. Also, any Vanagon up to1982 will have the Type 4 air cooed engine, but 1983 on will be the waterboxer. Another option would be the Corvair engine from the AMT Piranha or U.N.C.L.E. kits. Many VW Bus/Vans were upgraded to the Corvair 4 or 6cyl. Mostly 4 cyl, the 6 is a tight fit.

There is a bunch of info on the car here: https://www.c-we.com/piranha/UNCLEcar.htm

I think the difference is that nearly all the Die-Cast I have ever seen are pre-built. Nearly all plastic models I have seen are kits. Those that want a shiny built truck/car that they can just unbox and put on the shelf will still buy die-cast. Those of us that enjoy the fun/challenge of building it ourselves, will still buy kits. They are two distinctly different markets and buyer. Die-cast are seen as collectable, model kits can be too, but most are purchased to be built, not collected.

Interesting that they clearly use the 4WD body, but on a 2WD chassis. This is something I have considered doing in 1:1. The 4WD fenders have the flares stamped in on the fronts. Adding them to a 2WD would give factory flares as in the kit. Anyway, I like it and will follow. You are off to a great start.

I have had that same issue with the tape. I have found that it is not residue, but that the base paint was not cures enough and when I stuck the tape on it, it left a tape pattern behind that ruined the paint. I think what is happening is that because the paint is not fully cured, the paint is still gassing off and when the gasses are trapped by the tape, it causes that tape pattern to be left behind. I have found that if I leave it for a week or 2, then that does not happen. Also, it only happens with solvent based paints, not water based paints.

I sure hope you didn't throw it out, I love those old C900 Fords and would hate to know that it was trashed. If you want to find it a new home, PM me and I will show it some love.

I built his kit about 25-30 years ago. So, my memory isa bit fuzzy, but as I recall it is a good kit. I had no issues I remember. While I like this kit, and would not turn one down if I had a chance to get it, they are very dated. The car was done in the 80's and reflects that to the extreme. Billet everythnig, colorful stripes, very dated wheels, etc. All in all a solid kit, just dated due to the subject matter.