Oldmopars

I just ordered one. I have the other required kits in my stash. The seats are not an issue, I will draw and 3D print those. As for the top. I can draw and print one, but printing those in mass is problematic. If there is a resin caster willing to cast them, maybe we could work on getting these made. 3D printing large parts like this is hard as they tend to want to warp badly during curing. There are things that can be done, but for production sales, it drives the cost up a lot. Too much labor.

So, I watched this and I know he said that some of the stock parts are there, but it can't be built stock. From watching it, it seems the parts that are missing are a stock engine, stock hood, and front bumper. These seem like parts box items. I think the big part that would be hard to deal with is the removable top. I'm thinking this may be a 3D print item. Anyway, what are your thoughts?

Ok, I have to make one more adjustment. The top step seemed too low, I raised it up. Added the flange under the step.

I raised the handles a bit as they seemed too low.

This, I hope will be close enough. According to the pictures, there is no Diamond plate on the sides, or the sides of the steps. I just may print a set to see how they look in the real world. And Yes, the lower step has holes all the way through like the real thing.

Wow, thats wonderful. Thanks.

Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier, but this is really doable. I know there are several casters that sell them, but printing them would be easy too.

OK, some research shows that the dash is the same for the K100E. So that helps.

So, I have looked for a Revell, and they are all $150-300+. Not happening. AMT kits are out there for under $50 and on the shelf today. What dash would the K100E have? If I did a full cab, could both a flat top and Aerodyne be used on the AMT chassis?

I did reduce the size of the brake valves, but I hate to go any smaller. Because they stick out from the dash, and are not a feature of the das, if I go too much smaller, they may become an issue to print. Not that they can't be printed, but that they will be very fragile and just break off before you even get them painted. As for the K100E, I think it would be a fun project. Charles has the Ford W1000 now and I am waiting to see how that goes getting it printed. Some tweaking is required. If we can successfully get those to print and they work good for him, I will be doing more. If not I may have to see if I can print one good one and send it to a resin caster as a master. I have lots of time to draw/design, I have ZERO time to print or cast parts. For the K100E, would a flat top or Aerodyne be more desirable? When I get to that point, having a Revell cab and interior would be helpful. I will have to keep my eyes open for one or borrow from somebody. I am thinking full cab at this point, but we shall see.

It's the latest reissue. Older versions will not have them.

The Updated Dash

These are from the Ford LNT Snow Plow kit. However, they may be in other kits as well. They may even be the tires used in the tire set they sell.

I will look into this. If I do it, I will either do a full front panel that you cut off the original and attach the corrected front. If that doesn't work I will do a full cab. With all the rivet counters, I don't want to offer something that is known to be wrong, just to have everyone tell me how wrong it is. If I did a part cab/front, it would have to be for the AMT, unless someone has a spare Revell for me to compare it to. I only have an AMT. The full cab should work with either. Input?

Ok, I have made the fixes, but my flight was leaving and I just got it done in time to save and close. I will post the updated pictures tonight. I did add the ash tray on the right side of the dash, but the lower left ash tray is in the interior tray. This dash does not extend that far, the dash sits above that part. I also reduced the size of the air brake valves.

This is a great post, thank you. I wanted to add something here. As you all may know, those really great sanding pad/sponges are wonderful to work with, but stupid expensive. They also don't last very long and this adds to the high cost. I searched on Amazon and found sanding sponges in larger sizes and in bulk. I paid $14 for what would have cost me $125+ from the hobby shop. The ones I got are excellent quality and work great. 500-2000 grit. Other grits are available. The finer grits do cost more, but still a lot less than the LHS. Also, look at the beauty supply section of your favorite store. They sell Emory boards, sanding sticks with foam, etc., for doing nails. Many grits available at a fraction of the cost of your LHS. Again, look at Amazon. Autobody supply houses, auto parts stores, Amazon are all great sources for fine sand paper. They sell it in many grits down to extremely fine stuff. Doing the prep is vital, but it does not have to cost you an arm and a leg. Just think outside the LHS. I am all for supporting them, but I have a budget too. https://www.amazon.com/500-2000-Sanding-Sponges-Sandpaper-Flexible/dp/B09CL9B5WR/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4%3Aamzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&cv_ct_cx=sanding+sponge&keywords=sanding+sponge&pd_rd_i=B09CL9B5WR&pd_rd_r=5f069516-49a1-4d4b-a005-de8809372a1a&pd_rd_w=vSaEL&pd_rd_wg=QqNfk&pf_rd_p=eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&pf_rd_r=2470F20YSCJZQ380NBX9&qid=1676909499&sr=1-1-5985efba-8948-4f09-9122-d605505c9d1e

If you don't want to by Windex, or can't, look up in Google recipes for home made glass cleaner. You will find many. It will be water, ammonia, and alcohol. I don't know the percentages so you will need to look it up, but it is easy to make and a lot cheaper than buying it. Here is just one option: Home » Create » Homemade Glass Cleaner with Ammonia Homemade Glass Cleaner with Ammonia By meredith on January 8, 2019 » 18 Comments Make your own homemade glass cleaner with ammonia and get the best clean on your mirrors, showers and windows. This homemade windex is awesome. How to Make Glass Cleaner With spring cleaning season around the corner, there are loads of homemade, green cleaning solutions in blogosphere. Recipes using distilled vinegar, essentials oils or squeezed lemons are all the rage. But when it comes to window and glass cleaner, I have not found a natural homemade alternative that does a better job than Original Windex. Sorry, but that’s the truth. Windex is king and “if it ain’t broken, don’t fix it” right? However….I’m not a fan of the cost of Windex -$3-$5/bottle – much of which is water! So today, I’m going to show you how to duplicate the recipe for Original Windex window and glass cleaner for less than a buck. It’s fast, it’s easy and just like Windex (minus the electric blue), in my opinion, it’s the BEST. AD Keep in mind that this is not a green recipe. Windex is not green and it never claims to be. I’m ok with this because there are many other cleaning products I use that are biodegradable or non-toxic for the environment. I even use cloth diapers! So… I’m not losing sleep over the 2 tsp of ammonia used in this recipe. Pick your battles, I say. Especially when it comes to efficiency and quality! Ok! Off the soapbox! Let’s learn how to make glass cleaner! AD The recipe I am using comes from a 2002 Consumer Reports booklet entitled “How to Clean Practically Anything.” Their scientists tested many formulas and recipes and found that few homemade cleaning solutions performed as well as the store bought brands with the exception of window and glass cleaner. Homemade recipes mocking the big “W” brand did just as well. The Consumer Reports window and glass cleaner recipe calls for 1/2 cup soapy ammonia, 1 pint of rubbing alcohol and 13 1/2 cups of water to make one gallon. Since I’m not privy to making more than what I need (who needs extra containers laying around?), I cut down the recipe for a 32 oz. Windex bottle – a fourth of a gallon. Here are the new measured amounts: AD 1/8 cup (1 oz) soapy ammonia 1/2 cup (4 oz) rubbing alcohol 3 1/3 cups water Soapy ammonia is basically 4 parts water, 1 part ammonia and a “squirt” of dish soap. In doing the math, here is my cut down recipe for what I will need to make soapy ammonia for a 26 – 32 oz. size bottle: 5 teaspoons water 2 teaspoons ammonia 1 teaspoon dish soap

I finally got some color on this Jeep. I am still reworking the upper rack. But I am moving forward.

While I know everyone has different abilities, I just started to learn CAD February of last year, so 12 months ago. I got a printer and felt I needed to learn how to do some drawing. I downloaded Fusion 360 and watched a few YouTube videos. Now I sell designs on Cults3D and through Texas 3D Customs. So, if I can do it, you can too. However, I should note that I do spend 3-6 hours a day, nearly every day forking in Fusion to be able to do what I do. Some days even more. The Photo etch would be great. It would really add to the detail.

Thank you, that is why I posted it, I had hoped you would see something I missed. I will work on those things this week. Thanks again.

So, I have built the Ghost Busters version of the AMT 59 Ambulance, and the latest re-issue is now on my mind. I know it is possible to add an engine and other details, I think I saw a post here about it. What is the best way to go about it? I think someone else used the Revell 59 Caddy. I have one, but with the cost of these now, I hate to cut it up for the AMT. I think I have a 59/60 Revell Impala chassis, I used the body on another project. The engine is less of an issue, I can always print one. But firewall, inner fenders, etc. What have you all done? The interior tub is an issue, but I did a regular Ambulance a while back and just rebuilt the tub to remove all the GB stuff.

Does anyone have any dimensions of this box? L, W H?

Wheels, 20 and 22in

Well, thank you for all the reference material. I can't begin to tell you how much it helped to make this. Take a look and see if it is close to what it needs to be. I have not forwarded it on and can still make updates to it.

Yes, if you see the post, the complete interior will be provided. Bucket, dash, steering wheel, seats, etc. No glass. The glass is flat and can be cut out of sheet clear available from Hobby Lobby or other hobby shops. Donor is whatever you want to use. No matter what chassis you chose, modifications will be required. A COE would be a good start, but any can be made to work. As I said, Charles is working on the final details of getting it to print. Once done I will build one to show what it will look like on a chassis and painted. If this goes well, the GMC Cracker Box, Dodge L series and a Ford H conversion are all planned. In time, I may even try to do a few other trucks from the 50's-70's that were never kitted.