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Lyle Willits

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Everything posted by Lyle Willits

  1. Thanks for all the nice comments. I'm surprised that this thread has been resurected. This model was posted over a year ago. Thanks again.
  2. This is a transkit for the Revell '32 Ford.
  3. Here's another version of the Reps & Mins '32 Ford Sport Coupe. Criag Stansfield is too modest to mention that he did the excellent master for the resin kit.
  4. A guy at the NSRA Nats East asked me if I could professionally build (whatever THAT means ! ) a 1/8th scale replica of his deuce roadster, but I would need a small block Chevy and 8th scale wire wheels. Any aftermarket people doing this engine in resin and possibly a source for the wheels? I don't want to buy entire 8th scale kits to get the parts if I can avoid it. Thanks.
  5. Lindberg '53 Ford. Peaked hood with rounded corners. Revell '49 Merc bumpers ( rear bumper narrowed ), AMT parts pack grille bar. Bullet tailights and surrounds, molded in, from Replicas & Miniatures. Scratch built lower pan behind bumper. I made the skirts. Rear lowered using lowering blocks from sheet plastic. '59 Corvette wheel covers. Paint is Duplicolor Light Yellow with several coats of pearl. Top is Duplicolor Orange Mist, marbled by flaming some sprue and Tamiya Clear Orange. Half-rounds used for tuck&roll door panels. Modified seats from Revell '48 Ford kit. Flathead from kit. Intake and carbs from Revell midget racer kit. scratchbuilt stuff.
  6. http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/car-shows-2011/jalopy-showdown-2011/
  7. "Smoking" the paint - after the color coat is dry, light the end of a piece of styrene sprue (DO THIS OUTSIDE!!!!)and hold the burning sprue about 12 inches under the car body. Move the smoking sprue around in a random, erratic motion until you have enough of the black soot on the paint to make the design that you want. EXTINGUISH the styrene sprue. Immediately spray clear over the "smoked" paint. Let it dry normally. DON'T DO THIS INDOORS or you will have black soot floating through the air all over the room. In 1959, when I was 10, I painted my bike white and smoked the paint. My grandfather gave me hell for "wrecking" my bicycle and my grandmother gave me hell for playing with matches. Didn't matter - I had the coolest bike around !!!
  8. Got paint and clear coats on but NOT polished out yet. Skirts are just taped on. Duplicolor yellow with 3 coats of clear pearl. Roof is Duplicolor Orange Mist, smoked with styrene sprue and clear coated with Tamiya clear orange. Interior is done.
  9. Thanks for the great pics. Sorry I wasn't there.
  10. I get embossing powder at Michaels, which is a large craft store. Also A.C.Moore, etc. Apply just like flocking. I haven't used flocking in over 2 years.
  11. Light yellow,,,,,,,,MAYBE. Bronze roof,,,,,scallops,,,,,smoked paint,,,,,,etc.etc.etc.
  12. Yep. Embossing powder.
  13. My Ollies $8.00 '53 Ford mild custom. It's rough right now - still needs alot of sanding and smoothing. Filled all the indents for the stock chrome. Added new chrome strip from shaped half-rounds. Peaked the hood. Reshaped the front and rear splash pans to fit the '49 Merc bumpers I'm going to install. Didn't like the kit skirts so I made a set of Foxcraft skirts. Started on the interior by robbing parts from a Revell '48 Ford kit. '59 Corvette wheel covers.
  14. here's all the rest: http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/model-club-meetings-2011/mama-meeting-4232011/
  15. Thank you. That's a lot of work taking almost 1000 pictures. I wish I knew you were there. I would have liked to have met you.
  16. Finished this the evening before I left for NNL EAST. Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland resin sport coupe body and up-top, mastered by Craig Stansfield. Tamiya brown and dark yellow. Orange pinstripe decal. Custom interior, full race flathead, resin wide-5 wheels with '36 Ford 2-piece hub caps and big & little tires, '32 Chevy hood sides.
  17. LOTS MORE !!!!! http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/model_car_shows_/nnl-east-2011/
  18. New personnel at Armory canceled out our show on May 14, 2011. They will be conducting military drills and training. After being there for 18 years, they didn't know who we were and we didn't find out we were canceled until last night. See you all next year,,,,MAYBE!
  19. Progress is being made. Should be finished for NNL EAST. Top fits correctly - a little loose in this mockup. Have to Foil the windshield frame. '41 Ford steering wheel appears to be cloudy because I had just brushed on some semi-gloss and it hadn't dried yet. Still have lots of details to add.
  20. http://public.fotki.com/mamaprez/car-shows-2011/north-east-rod--cus/
  21. Here are the factory colors for '61 chevys. http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=1961-chevrolet-pg01.jpg
  22. This is the resin Sport Coupe from Replicas & Miniatures mastered by Craig Stansfield. I scratchbuilt a custom firewall,,,,just because! Flattie from the sedan kit. 2-carb mainfold from the AMT '34 Ford kit. Carbs from an old AMT '57 Chevy kit. Carb stacks are craft store "eyelets" I wanted the wheels to be old and a little different. These are resin wide-5's from Reps & Mins with the dust caps and lug nuts trimmed down. Two-piece hubcaps from the AMT '36 Ford kit with the outer chrome ridge painted orange. Trim ring is Bare Metal Foil. Rear tires are from Revell '37 Ford truck (I think) and the fronts are from the Revell '49 Merc kit with the whitewall inserts painted black. The car will be painted Tamiya dark yellow (looks greenish) and Tamiya brown. Reshaped a pair of '32 Chevy hood sides to fit the '32 Ford hood.
  23. It's hard to just "tell" someone how to woodgrain. It really needs a demonstration - but here it goes. I generally use Polly Scale paints for woodgraining. These are water-based acrylics. I apply YELLOW first and let it dry. Then I brush on thinned brown paints of various shades. Pick up VERY small amounts of paint on the brush and apply it in lines or streaks, as the grain in real wood. When dry, the colors will be flat. Apply clear, either Tamiya clear from a jar or you can spray Testors or Tamiya clear coat. The clear is what makes the finished job look like wood. Practice on an old unuseable car body or sheet plastic. I taught all this to Irv Arter a few years ago and people on all the forums immediately started calling it the Irv Arter method of woodgraining. Irv took pictures of the process. In the photos, Irv used Testors water-based acrylics. http://public.fotki.com/IrvinArterJr/irvins_model_cars-1/ford_models/1948_ford_woody_wagon/
  24. Yeah, another AMT Double "T" build,,,,but different. I wanted to make this look like a unique sixties show car. Not a weird, non-running show car, but a car that travelled the show circuit. Detailed 6 cylinder from AMT '37 Chevy. Only had to make the two front motor mounts, with no other frame modifications. Used the left side headers from the Beatnik Bandit after carefully reshaping them and then drilled them out. Made and polished an aluminum firewall. Exspanded metal mesh grille. Windshield support wires are guitar strings. Interior bucket is from the last reissue of the kit in the '90's. Scratchbuilt "wood" and metal roof supports. Krylon yellow, decals from a Revell '32 Ford kit and LOTS of polished clear. BTW - I DO NOT build a new model every week. This one was started and almost finished last fall. I just got around to finishing the details this week.
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